Dry Hopping First Time

I'm going to try dry hopping for the first time and a few questions. From what I've read, dry hopping into the secondary is recommended. I generally follow the 1-2-3 rule and leave the brew in secondary for 2 weeks, should the hops be added at the beginning? Also, I've seen some discussions on bagging the hops or not. Are there any preferences? If you do bag, what do you use? Is cheesecloth, like I use for steeping grains OK? Also, I've seen some of the homebrew suppliers advertise nylon 'hop bags' - are these to use for dry hopping? If I use a bag, how best to sanitize - I'm thinking of soaking in my no-rinse sanitizer, but not sure if that's the best way to go.

Anyway, this site never seems to lack for opinions, so I look forward to responses.

I bagged on mine, but it was worthless IMO, because i had to cut the bag to get it out of the carboy. Next time im just going to throw them in. I just used cheescloth. I put mine in some boiling water to sanitize, but it seems that some people do even do that.

To sanitize, you could steam them for a few minutes before tossing them in the fermenter.

Most people don't bother because hops harbor very little bacteria - they're a natural preservative.

I agree, from what I've read, I don't need to worry about the hops. My query was if I bag the hops - should I sanitize the bag and how.

Thats what i was saying with the boiling water, personally i wouldn't want to use a no rinse like that, I would think it would lead to off flavors do to not being able to dry in all the way through.

BruDaddy said:

I agree, from what I've read, I don't need to worry about the hops. My query was if I bag the hops - should I sanitize the bag and how.

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You can buy paint strianer bags at Home Depot or lowes for really cheap. Put it in some sanitzer solution and then fill it with hops. I close the bags with a zip tie.

Much easier to dry hop in a keg, but it is possible in a carboy!

I'm going to try dry hopping for the first time and a few questions. From what I've read, dry hopping into the secondary is recommended. I generally follow the 1-2-3 rule and leave the brew in secondary for 2 weeks, should the hops be added at the beginning?

Depends on how much hop nose you want to add to the brew...two weeks is good for a nice strong hoppy nose (depending on the variety in question too)

Also, I've seen some discussions on bagging the hops or not. Are there any preferences? If you do bag, what do you use? Is cheesecloth, like I use for steeping grains OK? Also, I've seen some of the homebrew suppliers advertise nylon 'hop bags' - are these to use for dry hopping? If I use a bag, how best to sanitize - I'm thinking of soaking in my no-rinse sanitizer, but not sure if that's the best way to go.

as mentioned you don't really have to worry about sanitizing your hops but I generally sanitize my hop bags that I use for dry hopping in my secondary. A pair of pantyhose that I have thoroughly bleached & boiled to remove all dye..then sanitized before each use works great.

I dry hopped for the first time on my last batch and I am sold! I just threw the pellets in whole. I gave the secondary a little bump every couple of days to help the hops settle. I tied a small steeping/hop bag onto the end of my racking cane before racking to bottling bucket. Came out crystal clear!
I have an IPA going right now that I am dry-hopping with 3oz of amarillo.
Good luck to you.

I heard that when dry hopping with pellets it's a good idea to "loosen" the pellets by putting them in some near-boiling water and then letting them cool to room temp. I haven't done it, just what I've heard.

Ok,
So I'm going to dry hop for the 1st time as well.
I've had my APA conditioning for 11 days now and I plan to bottle this Sunday.
Would 3 days be enough for dry hopping some pellets and
have them settle out before bottling? The beer is in a ported better bottle.
Or should I just go with the paint strainer bag as suggested when
bottling?

Isn't heat going to break down the lupulin glands and release the alpha acids, thus bittering the beer more than desired?

mew said:

I heard that when dry hopping with pellets it's a good idea to "loosen" the pellets by putting them in some near-boiling water and then letting them cool to room temp. I haven't done it, just what I've heard.

Click to expand...

I racked on top of loose pellets in my secondary. The hops quickly spread across the surface of the beer to a uniform density. I don't know how much more loose you are going to get.

Maybe I should try a little agitation to get them to settle.
Craig

I brewed today and my pre-pitch OG was an astounding 1.087!! Problem though, I used 2lbs pre-hopped DME and 3lbs 2-row in a partial mash. I collected just under 2.5 gallons of wort which is what I brew for half batch. This will most likely (even though I pitched two packs dry yeast on it) be a pretty sweet but strong beer.

I would like to dry hop to balance this beer out. Anyone tell me what hops are kind of univeral?? I want hops that will bitter this beer up a little (it's a golden lager being brewed at ale temps)

I will leave this sucker in primary for most of two weeks, then rack to secondary (this is the best time to dry hop?) leave it along in secondary for up to 2 weeks and then rack with some kind of filter and bottle...sound right?


Any hop sugggestions would be cool, thanks..

Larry

This is what I found on AHB:

"Warrior is a new extremely high alpha hop with a lot of potential. It is a mild hop and mainly used for bittering. Typical beer styles that are using this hop include pale ales and IPAs"

My beer is pale...er, it's golden anyhow.

If you're looking to add some bittering during dry hopping, you'll need to boil the hops in some water and pour the entire thing into secondary (after it cools, of course). IMHO, however, you should just toss some hops in a muslin or cheesecloth bag (if you don't have a nylon "hop bag") into the carboy and let it go through secondary.

As far as what hops to use... For the most part, dry hopping imparts aroma and not much else. Go to your LHBS and smell every type of hop they have until you find one that you REALLY like. I personally LOVE cascade for aroma, but you may have a different preference, and that's not even the only type of hops that I love for aroma. You have to make a choice on your own. Trust your nose and have fun.

I don't have a LHBS but I'll be ordering from Austin Home Brew, kinda dissapointing that dry hopping won't provide at least some bittering...this is gonna be one sweet beer unless those yeast packs attentuate to at least 80-85%...

Cascade seems to be regarded as a good dry hopping pellet. Thanks for the input.