ebay aquarium temp controller build

Williams 728
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bootin-gluten said:
I am in Canada so it isn't really warm enough to use that strategy I don't think... It has snowed about 8 inches in the last 24 hours. What would be involved in hard-wiring the compressor? I figure that swapping the stock controller out for the aquarium controller wouldn't be too hard as long as the wiring is right. I'm not sure how to go about hard-wiring the compressor to stay on.
Click to expand...

If you keep your kegerator in an unheated garage, putting the factory sensor on the outside would not work to force the thermostat to keep the compressor active. You said earlier that you don't think you need the heating option. I would think you would, unless you plan to keep this inside your house. In that case putting the factory sensor outside the fridge would keep the compressor active, and would allow you to use the controller sensor to monitor the interior temp.

The difficulty of hardwiring the compressor to be always active, or retrofitting the existing thermostat, will depend on the access to the pertinent wires, and your technical understanding. I was trying to offer simpler alternatives. If you are hell bent on retrofitting, there was a previous discussion in this thread that went over it. As long as you have a multi-meter, it should be straight forward to wire and test it.
 
Mad_Milo said:
Double/triple check your wire connections. Look for stray wires that are bridging gaps. Use a voltmeter to see if/where you have voltage.

Tug on the connections at the controller, make sure they are tight.

Does it power up at all after holding the power button for >5 seconds?
Click to expand...

OK I am a COMPLETE TOOL. Mad you are my savior.

I never remember having to turn it on before but holding the on buttong for a few seconds had it flashing on the screen again. Just posting hoping this could help some poor other schmuck in the future LOL
 
LOL that's funny. But glad you caught your own mistake. :D

M_C
sillyburt said:
OK I am a COMPLETE TOOL. Mad you are my savior.

I never remember having to turn it on before but holding the on buttong for a few seconds had it flashing on the screen again. Just posting hoping this could help some poor other schmuck in the future LOL
Click to expand...
 
Thanks cwi. I keep the kegerator in the garage but it doesn't drop below freezing in the winter which is why I didn't think I needed the heating. Maybe I'll wire it to an outlet so I can plug in a small space heater just in case it gets really cold.

I wouldn't say I'm hell-bent on retrofitting, just seems like it's the best option for solving the problem. I went through a ton of posts in this thread, do you happen to know where the retrofit discussion is located? Thanks!
 
bootin-gluten,

The discussion about retrofitting was within the last month, but I can't remember any terms that would make it show up in a search. Two guys tried to do it, and both miswired it initially. Done incorrectly, it has the potential to do damage to many things.

About heating- If your garage is well below your serving temperature, your beer could become overcarbonated if you don't adjust your pressure to account for it. If you want to heat the inside, there are several options. Ones I recall are- light bulb, lizard lamp, heating pad, ferm wrap, etc. A space heater, unless it has a VERY low heat output setting (<50 watts), is not a good choice.

Regarding being "hell-bent"- It is just the feeling I got after having suggested many times, many seemingly easier fixes, yet you still kept asking about retrofitting. For example, in the preceding post, immediately after saying you are not "hell-bent" on it, you ask about retrofitting again, since it seems like the best option.
 
I found the post by shackled on page 93 of this thread, is that the one you are referring to? Looks like he is doing the same thing.

I could probably hook up a lamp inside without any trouble, one came with the fridge, probably a better solution than a space heater (which I would have used outside the fridge, not inside). Over-carbing would definitely be a problem if we get a cold winter so I guess I really should implement some sort of heating mechanism.

Some of the fixes you suggested are certainly easier, I just don't know if they would do the job. Since the temperature in the garage goes from about 38F in the winter to 80 in the summer, it just seems very hard to make it work without replacing the stock controller which will let the temperature get to 53 before it signals cooling to start. I just don't want to be serving beer at 53, the level of carbonation varies too much and the pour quality decreases. I guess I would say that I'm not hell bent on retrofitting because I'd certainly like an easier fix to the problem, I just don't think there is one that I would be satisfied with.
 
bootin-gluten,

What don't you like about the various methods I suggested for tricking the factory controller to think the temperature is actually much hotter than the set point?

As I said before, if the factory sensor (not the whole controller, just the actual temp sensor) is accessible and a resistive (wired) type, the solution could be as easy as cutting the wires to the sensor, and at most as complicated as wire nutting a $.05 resistor to the cut wires. If the factory sensor is a copper thermocouple (tube type), the solution is as simple as taping a tiny (~1/4 watt) heat source (~$.50 neon lamp) to the thermocouple (or the original resistive sensor if you don't want to alter the fridge in any way). I believe there is a write up here about doing these very things to the temp sensors for window A/C units to make "cold rooms".

After the original fridge controller has been fooled into thinking it always needs to be cooling, you have the equivalent of a fridge set to "max cooling" like everyone else who uses these aquarium controllers does. Then you just need to use the aquarium controller in the standard way, wired up to two outlets (heat/cool), to plug your fridge and heat source into.

Both of these seem very simple and effective, to me at least, yet you have never inquired for any further info about these solutions. Can you see why I might get the feeling you have tunnel vision on a retrofit?
 
I agree that these would probably work if I can get to the thermocouple. I'm not sure what the stock thermocouple looks like as I would have to deconstruct my kegerator in order to get at it which is why I haven't asked about it. At that point, I'd still have to wire up the aquarium controller like everyone else is. I guess I was weighing whether it easier to fool the stock thermocouple or just replace the stock electronics with the new controller. I thought you were referring to both of these options as "retrofitting" so I didn't see what other option would work.

How large might a resistor need to be for the former strategy and how would a heat source stuck on to the thermocouple be powered and could it potentially melt anything (for the latter type of thermocouple)? Also, how do I determine what type of thermocouple I have if I can find it?
 
bootin-gluten said:
I agree that these would probably work if I can get to the thermocouple. I'm not sure what the stock thermocouple looks like as I would have to deconstruct my kegerator in order to get at it which is why I haven't asked about it. At that point, I'd still have to wire up the aquarium controller like everyone else is. I guess I was weighing whether it easier to fool the stock thermocouple or just replace the stock electronics with the new controller. I thought you were referring to both of these options as "retrofitting" so I didn't see what other option would work.

How large might a resistor need to be for the former strategy and how would a heat source stuck on to the thermocouple be powered and could it potentially melt anything (for the latter type of thermocouple)? Also, how do I determine what type of thermocouple I have if I can find it?
Click to expand...

If you think locating the existing temp sensor/thermocouple is difficult, or wiring up the aquarium controller in a project box is too much work, you are in for a surprise when you try to find all the wires to replace the factory controller. The temp sensor should be inside the fridge somewhere fairly obvious. If it is a wired resistive type, which is likely since the factory controller is digital, the fix will be easy.

The resistive sensor should increase its resistance as the temperature increases. Cutting the wires will create an open circuit, infinite resistance. The controller will either think the temp is hot, and your problem is solved; or throw an error, and not function. If it does not function, a resistor with a value that is the same as some arbitrarily hot temp needs to replace the cut sensor. This value can be determined by measuring the resistance of the sensor when heated to an appropriate temperature (room?). A little research could also be done to find the resistance ranges of sensors similar the the factory one. The physical size of the resistor will be tiny- smaller than a tic-tac, with a wire out each end.

For the "heating the sensor" approach, the heat source is tiny- ~1/4 watt I would think. Just enough to raise the temp to 60F or so. Search this site, or google, for how to use an A/C window unit to make a walk-in cooler. It has been done before, with how-to instructions, and various heat sources. The power for the heat source will come from the same place you power the fridge- an outlet. If you are having trouble figuring out how to tap into hot and neutral to run a couple of wires to a heat source, you may be in over your head.

Sensor/thermocouple types- I have explained more than once how to determine what type of factory sensor/thermocouple you have. It will be apparent once you find it. If not, ask again after you find it.

Just to be clear, none of my solutions attempt to "fix" the factory controller so that it functions properly. I have only suggested ways to force your fridge into a state where the compressor is perpetually on, if plugged directly into the wall. You will still have the build some version of the "aquarium controller project box", and plug the fridge into it.
 
I just finished mine and yes these are pretty sweet! I did however run into a problem. I used a relay from radio shack. I wired everything correctly using schematic that's been posted.(after adding two outlets and a switch for a aux outlet that always has power) the heat side turned on fine, but when it kicked to cold the relay started buzzing and both lights came on. So after messing with it, checking all the wires. I took a look at the bag the relay came in. The back showed a different diagram. So after moving the wires on the relay it works just fine. If looking at the schematic I took 1 and moved it to 6. Then had to add another wire the fan, and that went to 4. I think they may have changed there relays. Because I read else were in this thread that it worked just fine. Has anyone other than me had this problem? And thanks to the guy who started this thread. Great project
 
crackhead7 said:
i was having the same problem could you draw up what you did Agezzi!
Click to expand...

Ya I can but I'm out to dinner with the girl friend so I'll post it in the morn. It was simple after I looked at the package it came in.
 
the full diagram is the one from this thread,and that is how i had it wired and it didn't work(the relay). The other pic is how I had to wire the relay from radio shack, the power to the relay stayed the same. the only thing i did is add a new wire for the fan(that went to 4) and took the cold and moved it to 6. now everything works just fine. Hope this helps. edit: sorry for the small pic :(

wiring_fermenter_full.jpg


relay diagram.jpg
 
iaefebs said:
:off:
Just a tip. Not everyone here has the # of posts per page set the same. Much better to use the posting number rather than the page. To me we are currently on page #29 Your post was #1126:mug:
Click to expand...

:off:

And for me, we are only on page 15.

What makes is really bad is that the SEARCH function doesn't even respect that user setting. It will come back with results saying that the thing you are looking for is on "page X" of a thread. You can see a snippet of the post in the search results, but when you click the link, it will take you to the wrong page.
 
Just wanted to show the finished job. I bought two temp controllers, so I have any extra one. Has anyone thought of using one of these to use for mashing and controlling a pump? And maybe some how controlling a burner. Any ideas?

image-758446840.jpg


image-185061137.jpg


image-3866527592.jpg


image-1618452662.jpg
 
Further back in this thread someone was questioning as to weather the sensor could be retrofitted with an RCA style plug/ jack combination in order to move the mounting box and not disturb the sensor(which must enter the refrigerator/ freezer). Easy enough to do, but there was a the question of added resistance. Anybody tried it,and did you have problems? Thanks.
 
I didn't use a RCA jack and plug but i did use an RJ45 jack and plug on mine with no difference that I can tell. I did not measure the resistance however, I just put the sensor in a glass of ice water and got the same display readings both times. If you do have a problem, I think the controller has a setting to adjust the sensors readings slightly. Or, most people make an excel chart to convert between the temperature scales. If you have a difference of temp with the RCA plugs, you could figure that into your conversion chart equation as well.
 
cwi said:
If you think locating the existing temp sensor/thermocouple is difficult, or wiring up the aquarium controller in a project box is too much work, you are in for a surprise when you try to find all the wires to replace the factory controller. The temp sensor should be inside the fridge somewhere fairly obvious. If it is a wired resistive type, which is likely since the factory controller is digital, the fix will be easy.

The resistive sensor should increase its resistance as the temperature increases. Cutting the wires will create an open circuit, infinite resistance. The controller will either think the temp is hot, and your problem is solved; or throw an error, and not function. If it does not function, a resistor with a value that is the same as some arbitrarily hot temp needs to replace the cut sensor. This value can be determined by measuring the resistance of the sensor when heated to an appropriate temperature (room?). A little research could also be done to find the resistance ranges of sensors similar the the factory one. The physical size of the resistor will be tiny- smaller than a tic-tac, with a wire out each end.

For the "heating the sensor" approach, the heat source is tiny- ~1/4 watt I would think. Just enough to raise the temp to 60F or so. Search this site, or google, for how to use an A/C window unit to make a walk-in cooler. It has been done before, with how-to instructions, and various heat sources. The power for the heat source will come from the same place you power the fridge- an outlet. If you are having trouble figuring out how to tap into hot and neutral to run a couple of wires to a heat source, you may be in over your head.

Sensor/thermocouple types- I have explained more than once how to determine what type of factory sensor/thermocouple you have. It will be apparent once you find it. If not, ask again after you find it.

Just to be clear, none of my solutions attempt to "fix" the factory controller so that it functions properly. I have only suggested ways to force your fridge into a state where the compressor is perpetually on, if plugged directly into the wall. You will still have the build some version of the "aquarium controller project box", and plug the fridge into it.
Click to expand...

The thermocouple is a two-wire type. I cut it (with the power off of course) which resulted in an error on the display and a lovely high-pitched alarm. Any idea what size resistor I should be looking for?
 
Concerning the temp sensors and using more cable:

Do you think that Cat5 ethernet cable will work well (i.e. is it the same size or close enough) will work?

Does anyone know the gauge of the cable that comes with the temp sensor?


Thanks!!!
 
shoestealer17 said:
What's the best thing to use to cut the project box? I don't have a dremmel tool so any other suggestions would be welcome
Click to expand...

I think some folks have heated up a razor blade and used that to melt through. Although, theres a Harbor Freight in Fort Worth Texas and you can pickup a cheap Dremmel type tool for about $15.00.
 
rudu81 said:
Concerning the temp sensors and using more cable:

Do you think that Cat5 ethernet cable will work well (i.e. is it the same size or close enough) will work?

Does anyone know the gauge of the cable that comes with the temp sensor?


Thanks!!!
Click to expand...

The wire that is on the temp probe appears to be 22 awg. Cat5 will work. You may have to recalibrate the controller, depending on how long a run of wire you have. The resistance across the probe is roughly 11K ohm at 20C. As the temperature goes up the resistance lowers.
 
davel57 said:
Mine supposedly shipped 28 days ago and still hasn't arrived. I may just pick up a Johnson Controls unit as I have a batch in a keg waiting to be chilled.
Click to expand...

Man that's weird, I got mine yesterday, it only took 10 days to get here
 
once my order status had been changed to"shipped" my first controller took 10 days on the nose my second controller order got here in about 8 days.
 
davel57 said:
Mine supposedly shipped 28 days ago and still hasn't arrived. I may just pick up a Johnson Controls unit as I have a batch in a keg waiting to be chilled.
Click to expand...

Mine took a month to get to me. Curiously, it arrived 3 days after I requested the tracking number from the seller. It was sent USPS, and was stuck in New Jersey for 3 weeks until I tracked it through usps.com. I only requested the tracking number after another user said his was stuck in "customs", and subsequently arrived just a few days after tracking it as well. The govt conspiracy theorists can have a go at that coincidence.
 
Mine has been working wonderfully for a while now.

I see everyone making these boxes, etc. As an EE, I appreciate it, it's cool to see people doing that.

But you pretty much set the temperature and forget it, and I wanted a solution that largely did that. I figured that I'd see if I could wire this directly into the compressor and just snip and move some wires around and call it good (call me a lazy EE). Temp sensor runs out the open back panel and up into the freezer.

So, I took the thermostat panel off of my freezer and saw that all connectors were simple push on spade connections and a wire nut. Score.

I pulled them all off, wired up the controller, cut a piece of aluminum to replace the current thermostat panel and was off to the races. The old thermostat and panel are shoved behind it in the extra space if I ever want to go back to stock.

Minus making the aluminum panel, it was probably 5 minutes of wiring. Had a friend do the panel for me.

Tons of extra space if I ever wanted heating, extra LEDs or whatever added.

Extra cost: $0 for scrap aluminum cut to size and holes put in it, $2 for a box of some spade connectors to mate with what was on the unit to begin with. $0 for some wire I had laying around.

No extra parts or anything else. Simple, easy, and once pushed up against the wall, unobtrusive. Of course, for the first week I pulled it out 5 times a day to double-check the temp, but now I pretty much don't care. Pretty obvious to tell if it's at the set temp, or if it's not working at all (beer is either cold or warm).

IMG_20110401_111403.jpg
 
Wayne1 said:
The wire that is on the temp probe appears to be 22 awg. Cat5 will work. You may have to recalibrate the controller, depending on how long a run of wire you have. The resistance across the probe is roughly 11K ohm at 20C. As the temperature goes up the resistance lowers.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'm planning to run the Cat5 about 7-8' and was going to test the accuracy of the probes with ice water and a regular thermometer. Does the controller have a built in capability to be recalibrated?
 
rudu81 said:
Thanks! I'm planning to run the Cat5 about 7-8' and was going to test the accuracy of the probes with ice water and a regular thermometer. Does the controller have a built in capability to be recalibrated?
Click to expand...

Yes it does. F4
 
I just read this entire thread and still am a little bit confused being a total electricity noob... could someone help me out here?

I'm planning on buying the ebay controller and using a cut up heavy duty extension cord for all the wiring. I want to use it only for one stage (cooling) but also want to power a fan whenever the cooling turns on.

My understanding is that I can just NOT break any tabs off, then I can just plug in both the fridge and a computer fan (wired up to a cell phone charger) and both will fire at the same time.

That brings me to my next question... I modified the diagram from the OP to what I think would be correct for my purpose... make sense?

diagramf.jpg


It's electricity so I want to be as sure as possible that I'm doing it right before I start playing with wires.
 
bovineblitz said:
I just read this entire thread and still am a little bit confused being a total electricity noob... could someone help me out here?

I'm planning on buying the ebay controller and using a cut up heavy duty extension cord for all the wiring. I want to use it only for one stage (cooling) but also want to power a fan whenever the cooling turns on.

My understanding is that I can just NOT break any tabs off, then I can just plug in both the fridge and a computer fan (wired up to a cell phone charger) and both will fire at the same time.

That brings me to my next question... I modified the diagram from the OP to what I think would be correct for my purpose... make sense?

It's electricity so I want to be as sure as possible that I'm doing it right before I start playing with wires.
Click to expand...

Ya that should work fine. As long as that blue wire is neutral
 
bovineblitz said:
Yup blue = white.

Thanks for the confirmation :mug:


edit: crap I didn't notice that the one I ordered is 220v... looks like I'll have to cancel it.
Click to expand...

make sure you read through the fine print. if it's from one of the overseas sellers, they automatically send 110v if they see you are in a country which uses that.
 
android said:
make sure you read through the fine print. if it's from one of the overseas sellers, they automatically send 110v if they see you are in a country which uses that.
Click to expand...

Thanks. It's definitely overseas but there's nothing about 110v at all in the description, I sent the seller a message asking for either a 110v model or to cancel the order, hopefully that works.
 
Yet another build in a 6x4x2 project box. Great thread, glad I ran across it before dropping the money for a more expensive controller. :mug:

IMG_2064.JPG


IMG_20622.JPG
 

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