1 pid, 2 ssr, 110v?

Hi all,

I'm getting ready to start ordering the supplies to build a very basic e-bib 110v system. I would like to keep things relatively simple but still have everything run through one control box. I have seen on 110v systems where two elements are used, one through the pid and the other one its own cord into its own circuit (I.e. not through the control box).

I know I can wire both elements through the control box independently but I was wondering if their is a way for the pid to control both elements while each element is on its own 20a circuit. Sorry if my electrical terms are off, I'm an accountant...so basically can the pid control two ssrs with each Ssr on its own electrical circuit?

If so, any ideas on a wiring diagram? This is to be a simple control panel, no pumps, just maybe an on off switch unless you guys suggest something that I am overlooking that you feel I absolutely need.

Thank you for your help.

How about something like this:

As always - click on the image to see (and save) a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Hopes this helps.

P-J

Thank you so much PJ! That is exactly what I'm thinking of. Nice and simple. Thanks for including the pumps just in case. One more question: as long as I plug the box into two gfci outlets I shouldn't need to include any other type of protection right?

Vellum said:

Thank you so much PJ! That is exactly what I'm thinking of. Nice and simple. Thanks for including the pumps just in case. One more question: as long as I plug the box into two gfci outlets I shouldn't need to include any other type of protection right?

Click to expand...

That is correct.

Just another note: With the 2000W elements the current draw on each will be 17A. This means you would need each outlet to be on a 20A circuit and on seperate breakers.

If you use 1500W elements you can use 2 - 15A circuits as the current draw would be 12.5A on each.

Thanks so much PJ. Your help is invaluable.

PJ,
Dude you rock. I was also looking for a simplified PID set up for my tower. I plan to run two pids, one pump, and various other switches to control air solenoid valves for the tippy dump and leg extensions. This diagram give me a perfect base circuit to doublle and then add the remaining control circuits as needed. Thanks man!!!!

Wheelchair Bob

P-J said:

That is correct.

Just another note: With the 2000W elements the current draw on each will be 17A. This means you would need each outlet to be on a 20A circuit and on seperate breakers.

If you use 1500W elements you can use 2 - 15A circuits as the current draw would be 12.5A on each.

Click to expand...

Or you can use two 1650 Watt elements and be just below 15 Amps each (13.75 A).

thargrav said:

Or you can use two 1650 Watt elements and be just below 15 Amps each (13.75 A).

Click to expand...

Sounds good - but?
Then the pump(s)?

Sure, a MARCH 0809-0196-0600 pump is rated at 1.4 Amps, but I checked mine with a amprobe and it draws less than 1 Amp running. The reason is a motor's current draw is dependent on load & apparantly these, or at least mine, is not under full load whan running.

So, the pump + the element should draw slightly less than 15 Amps.

Here's what my pump is running.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-your-own-portable-Stainless-Steel-RIMS-tube-/

What would the minimum wattage required be to boil 5-7 gallons of wort? I have a 20a 110v outlet and I think another 15-20A 110v outlet in separate portions of my workshop.

I know a guy with two 1500W elements in a kettle and he makes 5 gallon all grain batches with no issues, so I am going to say 3000W is sufficient to boil. 2000W might be underpowered. Not sure.

FWIW: I have 5500W in my kettle, but that is a friggin volcano of a boil if left unchecked. I dial it back to an effective 3000-3500 watts when boiling.

I'm thinking of doing two 1650's. It allows a little more portability. Currently I have two 20a circuits available but it is a rental and id hate to get into a situation where I only had 15a and couldn't use my brew pot. I used the calculator at man skirt brewing and found there to be a 15 min difference or so in theoretical brew time between 4000 and 3300 watts (2x2000, & 2x1650, respectively).

We'll see what happens. I'm building up my control panel first then I'll order everything for the kettle.

Wow what timing. PJ thank you very much for posting that. I am nearing the point of building a control box for my 120v set up.

Can you stick a 2000w element on a 15a circuit? I checked the fuse box and I have one 20a and one 15a circuit to my workshop. I have a pre-existing oven surround with a ballsy vent fan which is where I'm planning on brewing. Is there anyway to determine how much juice the fan draws? It's REALLY old and I can't find any identifiers on it. I'm guessing there isn't a way but I thought I'd ask.

To get e-brewing I'm scaling back my original plan to something smaller with expandability:

HLT/BK with 2 elements (whatever I can safely use)
MT
and one March 815 pump for re-circ.

So I guess at max I'd be running two elements and a pump? Unless only one element is needed just to keep temp.

lwcm said:

Can you stick a 2000w element on a 15a circuit?

Click to expand...

No.

2000W / 120V = 16.7Amps

What switches would need to be used in this diagram? I'm assuming you can use any 120v 3-5a switch for the pumps. But what about the heating elements? 120v 20a switches?

or do you need a contactor for the elements?

Anu 120V 20A rated SPSS switch is OK

like this one

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-20-Amp-Single-Pole-Toggle-Switch-GSW-11/100030219

or even this one

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...e-Toggle-Switch-White-R52-0CSB1-2WS/202035005

No you don't need a contactor but you can use it if you wish. This way you can use any low current switch to control a 20Amp contactor.