Needing PICS of Danby converted kegerator door panel please..

I am wanting to start my conversion but the door has me puzzled. I have a brand new Danby mini fridge model # DAR440BL. The door panel is glued all the way rather than screwed on.

I saw some threads where people mentioned cutting the shelves off the door rather than replacing the whole panel. I need some instructions/pics of this if anybody has them. I would rather replace the whole panel and screw a new one on if possible. Or if I can't I need some info on how to cut away the shelving making it look as clean as possible.

I want to have a clean looking kegerator in case some day I want to sell it. I am aware of how to install the tower. I am a bit puzzled over the door situation Thanks!

Following this thread now...

I will share what I learn as I have this fridge coming next Tuesday to convert as well. I'm planning to put a hole in the top for a tower and am cautious as I already ruined a magic chef where the diagram said there was no freon line.. well it was there and pfffttt goes the freon, in the trash goes the fridge

Good luck!

nny2k said:

Following this thread now...

I will share what I learn as I have this fridge coming next Tuesday to convert as well. I'm planning to put a hole in the top for a tower and am cautious as I already ruined a magic chef where the diagram said there was no freon line.. well it was there and pfffttt goes the freon, in the trash goes the fridge

Good luck!

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Wow that sucks! I think with the danby you are safe to drill in between the thermostat and back of the fridge. There is a line that runs in the front near the door. I would still make sure where that line is though. I am just wondering how to do the door without making it look like s**t.

Did you see this thread? kegerator-conversion-danby-dar440bl-98779

Some good ideas/suggestions on how to handle the glued door.

On the last page the door has a white board on the inside that looks pretty awesome!

nny2k said:

Did you see this thread? kegerator-conversion-danby-dar440bl-98779

Some good ideas/suggestions on how to handle the glued door.

On the last page the door has a white board on the inside that looks pretty awesome!

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Yes I've read that thread like 10 times I saw the white board for the door but there are no detailed instructions. I am a visual learner and am a bit nervous about screwing this up. I messaged the person who did the mod so hopefully they respond.

I did this a month or so ago.

I took a box cutter and went around the door frame. Be careful to leave a lip, because you'll want to use the whiteboard method.

So I cut out the door, then basically scooped and cut out the foam insulation so the white board would fit.

I cut the whiteboard to size, then put it into door. I bought a simple foam crack filler for 1 inch applications. Stick the extender tube into the space between the lip you created and the whiteboard. It will expand and fill.

Be sure to wipe away any excess, as it will harden quickly and be difficult to remove.

Sorry, don't really have any pictures of the process.

finlayj said:

I did this a month or so ago.

I took a box cutter and went around the door frame. Be careful to leave a lip, because you'll want to use the whiteboard method.

So I cut out the door, then basically scooped and cut out the foam insulation so the white board would fit.

I cut the whiteboard to size, then put it into door. I bought a simple foam crack filler for 1 inch applications. Stick the extender tube into the space between the lip you created and the whiteboard. It will expand and fill.

Be sure to wipe away any excess, as it will harden quickly and be difficult to remove.

Sorry, don't really have any pictures of the process.

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Thanks! Your process sounds easy. Can you take a picture of your door and exactly where you cut? I want to get a general idea where to cut and how much lip to have.

How hard was it to cut with a box cutter? I have a dremel I can use if that would be easier.

I have this same fridge and was going to use it for fermenting with a temperature controller. I might make it a kegerator down the road. I want to pull the shelving on the door out as well and have a lot of the same concerns. Anything back from the PM?

HomeBrewLou said:

I have this same fridge and was going to use it for fermenting with a temperature controller. I might make it a kegerator down the road. I want to pull the shelving on the door out as well and have a lot of the same concerns. Anything back from the PM?

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I asked like 3 people and all used a dremel to cut around the shelves. Shave off some foam so it's flat then put some type of board on it. I'm gonna try dry erase board so I can write on it.

I just bought the danby DAR440 a few weeks ago and ran into the same problem. The older models had the door pannel screwed in and now danby glues in the door liner. I took several measurements and found that you hardly need and modification at all. There is NO NEED to remove the whole door liner.The less cutting you can do the better. Any of the foam that you expose by cutting the liner needs to be sealed so that you don't grow mold and mildew on the foam. Keep in mind that that foam is your insulation for the unit as well, by removing it all your door will be as insulated as a bed sheet. I bought white Rust-oleum appliance epoxy spray paint from Lowes (cost like $4), and taped off the areas i didnt want paint on. You can also just spray some onto a paper plate and apply it with a brush if you want. You want to put a few coats on it. Whats great about the appliance epoxy is that it is moisture resistant and hardens as it drys. After a few coats of that the foam is protected from moisture, worked great. I used something like a dremel tool to do the simple cuts, you could also use a good utility knife. Here are some pics.

As you can see it fits 2 of the ball lock corny's. You can fit the 5lb co2 on the back ledge, the only reason i only have 1 in the last pick is because midwest sent me a gas line with a hole in it so I am waiting for a replacement, but it does fit 2. You can clearly see the small amount of cutting I had to do on the door liner. Basically you just are cutting off the first row of the "bumps" that are used for supporting the shelves on the right side of the door. I belive it was about 2-2 1/2 inches, i just used the first set of bumps as a guideline. Remember you dont need to do anymore cutting than that small "L" shaped section. The top, bottom, and two sides have enough clearance, the kegs only have a small area where they need 8 1/2 inces of clearance. Hope this helps anyone that is trying to do it, I was frustrated as hell when I first noticed it was glued on, but it actually turned out to be easier.

msknapp0182 said:

As you can see it fits 2 of the ball lock corny's. You can fit the 5lb co2 on the back ledge, the only reason i only have 1 in the last pick is because midwest sent me a gas line with a hole in it so I am waiting for a replacement, but it does fit 2. You can clearly see the small amount of cutting I had to do on the door liner. Basically you just are cutting off the first row of the "bumps" that are used for supporting the shelves on the right side of the door. I belive it was about 2-2 1/2 inches, i just used the first set of bumps as a guideline. Remember you dont need to do anymore cutting than that small "L" shaped section. The top, bottom, and two sides have enough clearance, the kegs only have a small area where they need 8 1/2 inces of clearance. Hope this helps anyone that is trying to do it, I was frustrated as hell when I first noticed it was glued on, but it actually turned out to be easier.

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Hey thanks for the pics. I ended up doing the same thing as you. I sealed the door using a synthetic bathroom/kitchen sealant. I can now use two kegs no problems. Someday I may cut out the whole door and install a white board.

No problem, I'm glad I could save someone some time. I like the whiteboard idea and would have went with it if the door liner was still screwed in, but with it being glued im just going to cut a piece of whiteboard to fit vertically where the shelves use to be without removing any of the insulation or cutting anymore holes in the liner. My house gets pretty warm in the summer and I need to keep all of the insulation I can.

msknapp0182 said:

No problem, I'm glad I could save someone some time. I like the whiteboard idea and would have went with it if the door liner was still screwed in, but with it being glued im just going to cut a piece of whiteboard to fit vertically where the shelves use to be without removing any of the insulation or cutting anymore holes in the liner. My house gets pretty warm in the summer and I need to keep all of the insulation I can.

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That's a good idea. What would you use to apply the white board?

BansheeRider said:

That's a good idea. What would you use to apply the white board?

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I have a couple of ideas, keeping I'm mind that i am trying to avoid putting anymore holes in the door liner. The first is to use something like "liquid nails" adhesive to simply glue in the section of dry erase board, but I think what I will try first is actually just good adhesive velcro strips. You can get them at any hobby shop or probably Walmart. They would do no damage to the door and you could pull the piece of dry erase board right off the liner to write on it. Dry erase board isn't heavy and the velcro strips should have no problem supporting the weight.