Best yeast for stout

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Broncoblue

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
107
Reaction score
3
Location
logan
Going to make a Brewhouse stout from a no-boile kit (bladder bag) in the next day or two. Is there any specific type of yeast that works well with stouts. Do I need to make a started? Any advice would be appreciated
 
Not sure what a brewhouse stout or a bladder bag is but I like S-04 for stouts. Easy to handle (just rehydrate), quick fermenter and nice flavor profile.
 
Sorry, still kinda new. Rehydrate? as in let it sit in water or make a starter
 
Yeah, S-04 would work fine. You rehydrate dry yeast in about half a cup of warm water in advance of pouring it into the fermenter. I usually sprinkle it on top of the water, let sit, covered, for 10 minutes, stir, sit, again covered, for an additional 10 minutes, stir and pitch. Just make sure everything is sanitized, stir spoon, foil cover, and you don't want hot water, warm ~80 degrees is all I use.
 
HOOTER said:
Not sure what a brewhouse stout or a bladder bag is but I like S-04 for stouts. Easy to handle (just rehydrate), quick fermenter and nice flavor profile.

I have never rehydrated safale-04 even in my big batches.. It's not necessary is it? Did a AG strong scotch ale for st patties day and it took off like a rocket..
 
I agree with the suggestion to use Wyeast 1084 - Irish ale yeast. Although the dry yeasts suggested will probably work just as well.
 
I have never rehydrated safale-04 even in my big batches.. It's not necessary is it?
No, it is not necessary in the strictest sense of the word (or even a loose interpretation, really). The idea of rehydrating is that the cell walls of the yeast are not exposed to quite the degrees of osmotic pressure in plain water than they will be in the wort of considerably higher gravity. Rehydrating with water ostensibly makes the cell walls more "pliable" to better handle the osmotic pressures discovered in the wort. Yes, the yeast can go from dry to wort with apparent success but it does represent additional stress for the yeast.
Finally, the sooner the yeast get to work the more quickly they outpace any competitors that may find their way into your wort. The yeast have to hydrate one way or the other. Do you want them to get to work as soon as they hit the wort or wait around in the wort getting rehydrated?
 
TheSeether said:
No, it is not necessary in the strictest sense of the word (or even a loose interpretation, really). The idea of rehydrating is that the cell walls of the yeast are not exposed to quite the degrees of osmotic pressure in plain water than they will be in the wort of considerably higher gravity. Rehydrating with water ostensibly makes the cell walls more "pliable" to better handle the osmotic pressures discovered in the wort. Yes, the yeast can go from dry to wort with apparent success but it does represent additional stress for the yeast.
Finally, the sooner the yeast get to work the more quickly they outpace any competitors that may find their way into your wort. The yeast have to hydrate one way or the other. Do you want them to get to work as soon as they hit the wort or wait around in the wort getting rehydrated?

Got it! Thanks for the info.. I plan on building a bank soon so I will be going to all starters.. I like the flavor of muntons dry yeast for my light APA and did 2 batches at one time but the LHBS only had 1 pack of yeast so I used the muntons gold on the other and the original muntons wich I do rehydrate did do a better job than the gold that is just sprinkled on the top...
 
The 1084 is the stout yeast. That is the yeast used to make Guinness. I would go with that or the WL equivalent, WL04.

Check this out (Yeasts)
 
Back
Top