Build burner issues

I am using BG-10 burners 1/2inch plumbing to valve to burner via hot water heater gas line. I can not get a blue flame to save my life. Yes I adjusted the o2 plate and my flame doesnt change at all when I turn it. I turned on slowly to see if my regultor was the issue, nada. then I got my work truck back into the drive way and plumbed up the propane direct with a safety valve no pressure disk regulator, still the same. I have even used the 1/4 lp gas line direct to the burner and nothing(bypassed the 1/2 inch iron manifold)I am open to suggestions Ive changed the CGA fitting on my propane thinking it would do something, nada. oh yeah, ive tried all three burners too.Help me please, since I cant play with my build ive resorted to drinking. thanks for your help. These are brand new bought from morebeer so no bugs stuck in the venturi.

cheers,

Here are a couple of threads with a similar issue. After reading through these I'm thinking you have an incorrect orifice or an incorrect regulator.


http://forums.morebeer.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=22918&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

http://www.brews-bros.com/index.php/topic/25760-turkey-fryer-question/

I suspect you have the wrong orifice or no orifice at all. Show us a pic of the connection to the burner and a close up of the orifice. Remove the connector to the burner and turn on the gas briefly. You should be getting a substantial flow through the burner.

I purchased 3 brand new BG10 burners - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JXYSW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 - and purchased this brand new Bayou Classic high pressure regulator - http://www.bayouclassicdepot.com/m5hpr1_propane_regulator.htm

I used lp thread tape to connect each fitting connection from the regulator to the burner. I have the air valve opened completely on the burner and the valve is wide open on my tank as well. Unfortunately, as you can see in the video I am not getting anything close to a nice blue flame. What do I have wrong?



Do I have the wrong regulator for this burner? Could I have a leak that I wasn't able to discover?

Thanks in advance for the help

By the way... I don't mean to hi-jack this thread, just having a similar problem and I'm not having any luck figuring out what I have wrong with this set up

http://www.brewingkb.com/homebrewing/orange-flames-4072.html

Has anyone noted improved flame with the use of something like this nipple shown in the link above?

The pipe nipple without an orifice is the problem, the one shown in the other thread is needed. If using low pressure LP the opening needs to be drilled to 3/32", for NG 1/8" to start and up size until air shutter is fully opened. The smaller orifice speeds up the gas flow and pulls additional air into the burner to mix and get the blue flame you are looking for, the faster the gas flow the greater the amount of air and the larger the flame will be. This is why when you drop the supply pressure and drill out the gas jet the maximum burner output drops also as there is less force to induce air and create pressure inside the burner. Here is a link to one of the pipe nipples with an orifice http://morebeer.com/view_product/17265/102341/Burner_Jet_-_1_8%22_x_4%22 , if you want something smaller here is a brass fitting that can be drilled out to fuel pressure and type requirements http://www.instawares.com/158-1010-threaded-burner-orifice-size.158-1010.0.7.htm

Exactly what kladue said. You need one of the high pressure orifices screwed into the the threaded portion of your burner and then the regulator hose attached to that.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewi...ressure-orifice-for-high-pressure-burner.html

mariojr said:

Exactly what kladue said. You need one of the high pressure orifices screwed into the the threaded portion of your burner and then the regulator hose attached to that.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewi...ressure-orifice-for-high-pressure-burner.html

Click to expand...

I thought he was using natural gas. In that case he doesn't need a regulator, just the right size orifice for natural gas.

Sawdustguy said:

I thought he was using natural gas. In that case he doesn't need a regulator, just the right size orifice for natural gas.

Click to expand...

My mistake. I was responding to the the hijacker and not the OP.

Thanks guys... just ordered those for my LP set up. Hope it helps the OP as well.

My new burner orifice showed up today and I took a video to show you the improvement. I hope it helps those that may have similar questions in the future.



My question now is how high should I have the kettle above the burner? Will the flames be coming up the sides of my kettle at all? Will I get any black soot on my kettle or should it be high enough/burn clean enough to avoid this dirty situation? I want to get max efficiency of heat from the flame with as little/no black soot on my kettle.

Thanks again for the help.

bump! Do I have enough room from burner to kettle? Will I get black soot no matter what?

jtwangler said:

My new burner orifice showed up today and I took a video to show you the improvement. I hope it helps those that may have similar questions in the future.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8WWLN_TJJw

My question now is how high should I have the kettle above the burner? Will the flames be coming up the sides of my kettle at all? Will I get any black soot on my kettle or should it be high enough/burn clean enough to avoid this dirty situation? I want to get max efficiency of heat from the flame with as little/no black soot on my kettle.

Thanks again for the help.

Click to expand...

When you run the burner look at the base where it is light blue, this is the area that will cause soot if it touches the cooler metal bottom. A good method to set elevation is to estimate the light blue flame height at wide open and add a 1/2" to that for spacing below keg bottom. In the video you have too much air and the burner is noisy, reduce the amount of air until the flame tips turn yellow, then open until they go all blue. The burner should be quiet when running, not with a roaring sound. The orange streaks in the flame are just iron particles from the casting blowing out, it should clear up after a short time running at high fire.