Yet Another STC-1000 Build

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DavetheDog

Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2013
Messages
24
Reaction score
1
Location
Richmond
I though I would share by build with everyone in hopes it may inspire or answer questions. In order to not be redundant, I'm not going to post pictures of the build process but I would like to thank and share:

Android for his infamous STC-1000 thread
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-build-163849/

and Revvy's post here for the inspiration. Thanks guys.
Mine is wired up to have one set of sockets always on, so I'm not tying up my wall socket all the time. I can run the vacuum if I want. Then one 2-sided outlet for heater and one 2-sided outlet for cooling.

Wiring_Diagram_copy.jpg


Where you see a colored wire "Squiggle" over another wire, it means they're not connected to each other, they are just crossing each other.

The black wires are the "hot" wires, and they correspond to the hot side of things including the hot side of the wall sockets.

The red is the white (neutral) wire on the electrical cord used to hook it up to power it.

Green is ground . The green wire is spliced in three places and hooks up to the ground.

Hopes this helps.
I've shortened Revvy's post to trim things down a little.

I went with the Radio Shack project box with two receptacles. My end goal was to dedicate one complete receptacle to the heater side with both outlets turning on at the same time; one outlet for the heater and one outlet for the fan to move the warm air around.

I will be using a GE 7.0 cu. ft. Chest Freezer in White, Model # FCM7SUWW. The freezer will be plugged into the top outlet on the second receptacle.

I wanted one outlet available as "always on" so that I can set my stir plate within the ferm chamber while building up my starters. By breaking the tab off of the hot side I was able to provide a constant current. See the diagram below.

I hope this helps someone. I've tested it last night and all is working well. I am by no means an electrician so if someone out there sees an error in my ways. Let me know.

Happy brewing! :mug:

ScreenShot2013-02-12at31609PM.png
 
Looks pretty good, but a couple comments. In AC, there is no positive and negative. Hot and Neutral are the correct designations and are generally represented as black and white conductors respectively. The Pos/Hot/Black conductor should be connected to the Always On receptacle, not the Heat(fan).

Be sure to connect Hot to the brass screw/short slot and Neutral to the nickel plated (silver) screw/tall slot on the receptacle.
 
Looks pretty good, but a couple comments. In AC, there is no positive and negative. Hot and Neutral are the correct designations and are generally represented as black and white conductors respectively. The Pos/Hot/Black conductor should be connected to the Always On receptacle, not the Heat(fan).

Be sure to connect Hot to the brass screw/short slot and Neutral to the nickel plated (silver) screw/tall slot on the receptacle.

Thanks raouliii for checking it out. I've made the edits and uploaded a new image.
 
Back
Top