Keggle ''extension''

I'm going 240v electric.

I have bought 3x 50 L euro sanke. Planning to do mostly 5g batches to start but I want to do 10g later I got a keezer and corny keg.

These Keg have a 13.2 Gal capacity, with the boil-off and the amount left with the trub, I think it would be dangerous for boil-overs.

I really like the idea of cutting the bottom to use 2" triclover on the sanke neck.



Instead of 12" hole I would remove the ring and get the skirt vent welded.( is it worth it ?)

2 inches skirt gives me 353 cubic inches, roughly 1.5 gal



Finding a 15.5gal keg in Montreal seems kinda hard. And I already have the 3x 50 L

It is definitely possible to have a boil over with a 5 gallon batch in a standard american sanke. I'm sure you can guess how I know this. And doing a 10 gallon batch certainly requires monitoring. I think there are ways you could do 10 gallons in a euro, but there's a good chance you'll have some drama eventually. I think it's going to be a pain to cut the bottom so the opening is the same size as the keg. If you don't do that, I think cleanup will be more of a pain. Welding the vents should be doable. If you have the equipment and time on your hands, no reason it shouldn't work.

Ed

It's probably cheaper just to buy a 15.5g keg on ebay.

The ebay kegs seems overpriced. I will still watch the price. I have 3 euro keg already in my possession, but there's always something that you can do with a spare sanke as a homebrewer.

I would do my own cut of the top with angle grinder and or dremel that I already have. For the welding I would need someone to do it for me.

I know a guy that have all the tools in his shop for that kind of work. I guess the best thing to do would be to swing by with the keg and a rough draft. And buy a couple of ferrule for all my build to get a quote. It sucks that I don't have good homebrews on hand to ease the deal.
Thank you for your input.

Welding a keg is not as simple as many welders think (this I'd discussed in many threads here on HBT). Best chance of success is if the keg is TIG welded, and the back side of the weld is purged with inert gas.

Good luck and have fun.
Ed

If you're going to be using a pid with your rig then you could set it to right under your boil temp and then raise it up slowly keeping a close eye on any possible boil overs. Its not a perfect solution but it sounds like your best option without buying another pot.

bloodonblood said:

If you're going to be using a pid with your rig then you could set it to right under your boil temp and then raise it up slowly keeping a close eye on any possible boil overs. Its not a perfect solution but it sounds like your best option without buying another pot.

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My system is all electric, but I still managed a boil over. Problem is once you get close to boil temp, you have to switch to a power percentage to boil at the proper intensity. If it gets out of hand it can quickly boil over before you can reset the control... You have the option to kill the power (assuming you built in a switch) but at some point you have to let it boil to find the right setting.

If I were boiling in a kettle that was too small, I would probably start with my final volume (excluding boil off volume) and add water throughout the boil to keep the volume constant. It will kill your boil with each addition and be a pain, but should leave some space for breathing room.

Ed

Why not use foam control? I run the odd 10g in my 50l keg without issue.

Danop316 said:

Why not use foam control? I run the odd 10g in my 50l keg without issue.

Click to expand...

Do you have the standard 12" cut ?

If I went ahead and do as I say it would leave me with a bit more safety net for the boil overs.

If I were boiling in a kettle that was too small, I would probably start with my final volume (excluding boil off volume) and add water throughout the boil to keep the volume constant. It will kill your boil with each addition and be a pain, but should leave some space for breathing room.

Ed


I could use the final runnings to match the boil off volume. And if i do higher gravity beer the mash tun will be a bit too small too for 10g batch. I will stick to 5-8 gal batches for these.


I'm desgning my first system, the first 4-5 batches I did were all stove top extract + partial mash and one all grain brew in a bag from a propane burner(turker fryer I hate it), so I don't know if it's going to be the way I will brew for a long time or not, There will be place for adjustement/improvements/upgrades as I go. I'm not sure if I want to drop all the cash on these keggle to replace them with pots or bigger system. My LHMS bought SS 3 layer pots from china. I think 70 L and 80L (18gal) are like 160 $. I got a ss head chugger pump, 50a gfci spa panel, 2 high density element 5500w. I still have to choose to order pid ssr from auber ins. in one go or to buy a cheap pwm to get started and add more as I go. Single vessel biab electric would be fantastic space wise for now.

The guy has high tech equipement doing custom machining etc. I think he will have a TIG welder working for him. I will contact him after the holidays.

Cut is the standard 12" ish... Not that there's anything wrong with your idea of clean cutting and welding the drain holes in fact it sounds neat.

Just letting you know that you can squeeze a 10g batch in a 50l sanke without modification.

You could always do 9 gallon batches. Using firmcap I've been able to max out my boil kettle with just an inch of head space and not boil over.

I will go with it, I had some trouble removing the dip tube. the top is cut off. Going to use my grinder with a smoothing stone to remove the lip soon.