Pick up tube for keggle?

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try northern brewer iif you are looking to buy a pre made pick-up,
http://www.northernbrewer.com/weldless.html
if you are looking for a DIY solution Then just take your bulkhead to a hardware store and fine the parts to build what is in this picture.
baz-adapter-sanke.jpg



Cheers
 
I understand the need for 2 pieces so that it can be disassembled, but do I have to worry about an air leak and losing syphon at the junction?
 
The picture was from Norhtern brewer, so the hose clamp is a mistery to me too, i would say that you don't have to worry about an airleak but I also use a high temp silicone on my joints after I put it together. If you do it right you won't need it though. Cheers
 
The cheapest pickup tube is not having one. While I'd kind of like one, my first keggle batch was completed by running the wort out of the ball valve into a fine nylon mesh bag and down into the fermenting bucket. This aerated the heck out of the wort and trapped all the hops and even some cold break. After the bag was mostly drained I got the last 1.5g out by tilting the keg and rocking it to get the most wort out (bag still attached). It left less than 3 oz behind. It's a little bit of trouble but it makes the whole event that much more athletic.
 
Would you want a 1/2" stainless tube with a 90 degree bend that you could cut to fit with a hacksaw or tube cutter, or a 1/2" teflon tube with a 90 degree bend that you could cut to fit with a knife. Am cleaning up at the end of a job in AZ. and would throw out left over tubing as left overs less than full lengths are tossed.
 
The hose clamp is to connect the pickup tube to a hopstopper or bazooka screen.

I bought the one at NB before I knew how to solder, it works well. Would be easy as hell to build, though.
 
kladue said:
Would you want a 1/2" stainless tube with a 90 degree bend that you could cut to fit with a hacksaw or tube cutter, or a 1/2" teflon tube with a 90 degree bend that you could cut to fit with a knife. Am cleaning up at the end of a job in AZ. and would throw out left over tubing as left overs less than full lengths are tossed.

Grab the stainless. I have no idea about using the teflon in boiling wort, but the stainless should work great. Hell, I'd grab all the SS tube scraps I could - I bet you could find lots of uses for that down the road ;)
 
Thats the right part, but you need a 1/2" compression fitting, the stainless ones are redonculously expensive, you should be able to find a brass one at a hardware store for a couple bucks.
 
If your going to use the weldless valve setup i will thow in a swagelok 810-7-8 fitting (1/2" tube X 1/2" female pipe) to replace the coupling as they are not as easy to find as the male pipe thread version.
 
the_bird said:
The hose clamp is to connect the pickup tube to a hopstopper or bazooka screen.

NB also provides the hose clamp if you get one of their SS false bottoms...it attaches to the pickup tube above the FB to keep the FB from riding up.

I made a dip tube by bending a piece of 3/8" copper tubing...attaches to my through-wall fitting via a 1/2" NPT to 3/8" compression fitting. I flared the open end (in an ufgly fashion) by bending it with needlenose pliers.

Costs about $2, assuming you (a) don't just have the 2 parts laying around and (b) have the means to put a tight bend in the copper tube. Otherwise, the tube bender will set you back $20-ish
 
Bike N Brew said:
Costs about $2, assuming you (a) don't just have the 2 parts laying around and (b) have the means to put a tight bend in the copper tube. Otherwise, the tube bender will set you back $20-ish

pipe bender, who needs that, just tape off one end, fill it with salt/flour/sand, tape the other end, and bend to your hearts delight without crimping :D
 
Here is what I found for my pick up tube in HD today, cost is about $10, could not find SS 1/2 nut, had to buy the whole ball valve. The tube is chrome plated copper.

d1.jpg


d2.jpg


d3.jpg
 
I ended up buying parts at Lowes yesterday for that and the CFC that I am going to build. I know how to solder copper so it should be easy to put together. Ended up being pretty cheap.
 
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