March Pump Tips

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aekdbbop

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I have always had some problems getting my march pump primed. Can anyone give me any tips on how to easily use this stupid thing. Sometimes, i get so f'ing frustrated.. lol

thanks! (its an 809 btw)
 
Here is my system and pics showing how my pump is mounted. I took a little grief from ppl because this is not the traditional way to mount the pump, BUT, after 4 brews I have never once had to start and stop the pump to prime it. The INlet is on the left and I am still waiting for it not to prime the FIRST time...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/new-10-gallon-herms-pics-76773/
 
Just keep it below the the liquid and it will prime itself automatically, or atleast it does for me that way.
 
The problems I've always had was bleeding the air out of it initially. I use quick disconnects on everything, so it makes it pretty easy to just pop the hose connected to the output of the pump long enough to prime the it...
 
For what it is worth...I have mine mounted on a 12"x12"x1" ply board. I prop the board next to the kettle I am using so the "out" side is in the up position. This seems to burp the line prior to turning the pump on.
 
I have the pump mounted vertically (with the head in this position <---0---<)

I cannot get the damn thing to prime, it is under my kettles, I have the outflow hose above the kettle to fill the next kettle. All my pump is doing is making a churning noise, and sometimes i get a trickle..

in what order do i open the valves? i have valves on each side of the head, and on the kettles.

This seems so overly difficult.

---EDIT---

NM, i think i figured it out.. used a smaller amount of hose to the inlet, and switched the pump orientation around so that it ran up and down..

works fine now.. thanks..
 
Ahoy hoy,
It is my understanding that the output port must be pointed up for the best performance. you can pull the 4 screws on the in/out head, and turn it to meet your needs. Hope this photo helps
I bid you all a great day.

R93a.jpg
 
I saw your PM and thought I'd find the thread instead of replying. Input on the bottom, output facing up works for me but.....

The trick to priming is supplying air-free liquid to the inlet and the easiest possible path to purge air out of the outlet. It sounds easier than it is in practice because you'll typically try to get started with both hoses hooked to things. (side note, you don't really need a valve on the inlet side if you have valves on the output of all your vessels.)

Let's say the pump is bone dry and so are your hoses. The input hose comes from your HLT and the output goes to your MLT. Open the pump output ball valve all the way, open the HLT valve all the way. If there's enough head pressure in your HLT, water should flow down and into the pump head driving air up into the outlet hose. Wait a minute or so for the air to work out. Turn the pump on. There's likely to be some trapped air in the head for a minute or two but it should catch and eventually drive out any air bubbles.

My other tip is to pre-prime the pump with your garden hose. I made up a disconnect to hose thread system so I can attach the hose to the input of the pump easily. With the valve open, I push high pressure hose water through until the output is solid water. Close the valve, disconnect the hose, hook up your vessels and away you go.

Maintaining prime is key. Watch to make sure you don't pull air in by shutting the pump output valve just before air gets to the pump housing.
 
Yup, they're called coolant disconnects.

#

Where I got the Thermometers and quick disconnects? The thermometers were scored on Ebay for about $22 each. If you pay more than that, you might as well start looking at digital remote probes. The quick disconnects are from McMaster Carr. Search for items 6739K59 and 6739K68.
 
Good lord this is not hard. If the pump is below the vessel and the outlet and inlet are open then liquid should flow through the pump (pump off). When that happens just turn on the pump and whoooooh........ out it comes. If this does not happen then you have valves closed, blocked lines etc. Remember that if the inlet fittings or hose leak air the pump will cavitate and stop pumping liquid.
 
i have problems with my pumps all the time, everything is mounted right but i find my self having to squeeze the lines from the pumps just to keep the flow going (even after it gets primed). also if it weren't for my quick disconnects, these pumps would be almost impossible to operate.

it is very annoying to say at least.

i just dont see how some people who have their lines made of copper, keep their flow going.
 
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