I think I'm about ready.........

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Yambor44

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NOT pictured: RIMS Tube, PID, SSR, and heat sink....



I recently built this "RIMS box" to get the hang of using a PID and the RIMS first. I will install the RIMS tube on the stand and the components in the control box.





Thanks to Tiber for the project box!

A HUGE - LARGE - BIG THANK YOU to Paul Muth (P-J) fir all of his help so far!! Here is a parts list he put together! If someone knows how to display it open (without having to use the link) please let me know. I also have it in a Excel spreadsheet.

file:///Users/robmay44/Library/Mail%20Downloads/Rob-May-Parts-List-2.htm

EDIT: Link not working right see below.
 
Here is an image of the order list:



Click on it to see an interactive Excel spread sheet where you can enter quantities. You might want to save the sheet to your system (If you want). Use the Tab key to navigate to the cells that can be changed. The Vendors and URLs are clickable to bring you to the items. The sheet is protected to allow ease of navigation. (NO password.)

(That is - IF you have Excel on your system. I think?)

Yambor44,

I hope you don't mind that I posted this. Your link didn't work for me.
I'm really pleased this is working out for you & I enjoyed the whole dialog and plan build.

P-J
 
Now for the wiring diagram:

(Click on the image for a full scale diagram. The full scale can be printed on 11" X 17" tabloid paper.)




I think this is going to be an interesting build.

P-J
 
Got all the rest of my stuff in yesterday. Getting ready to start on the box but I'm a little leery of cutting into it yet. Couple of questions from those that have been there:

Whats the best way to layout the switches and plugs to be able to measure twice and cut once?

Would a dremel with a cutting wheel be best for cutting the odd shaped plug holes? I plan on a hole saw for the big main power plug and step bit for the switches and sensor quick connects.

Any recommendations or pointers would be most appreciated!
 
Well, I will trudge on ahead then...

Getting this laid out (as simple of a box as it can be) is a little intimidating (to me). Trying to make sure the pids will fit and not hit the sides of the box when opeing and closing, keep everything in order so it plays well with one another, and laying it out so all of the wires are decently accessible is a task. I'm so afraid I will cut a hole and figure a better place for it AFTER thew cut, LOL.
Anyway, here's a couple of pics of the "thinking" process. Trying to keep it simple and minimal for space sake.



 
Lookin good bro! That box looks familiar :mug:

Looks like a great start. I'm sorry I can't offer any advice on cutting that material with a dremel, since I used a cnc mill. Maybe you could ask any local machine shops if they'd cut those out for you for cheap?

Looking forward to seeing the final product!

TB
 
I like to do the PID, switch, etc. layout in a computer drawing program and then tape that onto the panel. Then I can use a tiny drill bit or punch and set the holes correctly. My first use of a Dremel cutting wheel the other day was fun and although a bit messy it did the job for the PID cut out. Just buy a bunch of extra wheels and you should be ok. I broke my last wheel and had to finish the cut with a 4.5" wheel on my Angle grinder - that was not easy!
 
I used the same method. Can't imagine doing it any other way without it turning into an autocad project. Just be sure to leave room for labels and also for other PID's, swithces, etc. in case you want to add stuff.
 
I used the same method. Can't imagine doing it any other way without it turning into an autocad project. Just be sure to leave room for labels and also for other PID's, swithces, etc. in case you want to add stuff.

Which method is that Steve? Also, I do have 3 PIDS, it's just not in the photo as it is in use in my RIMS toolbox right now.

The switch to the far upper right will turn on the PIDS
The switches under in PID will turn on the element to the kettle relating to that PID (Left to right BK, MT, HLT)
The two switches under those three will be pump 1 and 2
Not pictured (I forgot to add it) is the E-Stop button which will be symmetrically located under and between the two pump switches.

What do you guys think?
 
Lookin good bro! That box looks familiar :mug:

Looks like a great start. I'm sorry I can't offer any advice on cutting that material with a dremel, since I used a cnc mill. Maybe you could ask any local machine shops if they'd cut those out for you for cheap?

Looking forward to seeing the final product!

TB

Thanks for encouragement!! :mug:
 
Can I be the first noob to say....what is that??

It is my electrical panel box for my soon to be all electric brew system. The black things up top are Aubrin PID controllers that regulate the temperature in the kettles. The rest are switches that I described just above.
 
So it's like a huge electric stove dedicated to and designed specifically for brewing?

Man I live in a tiny apartment I just wanna move up to a turkey fryer. I'm doing my 9th batch on the stove as I type.

One day though.....one day....
 
Which method is that Steve? QUOTE]

I was referring to Samc's post about overlaying a computer printout of the switch and PID layout. Once you get everything perfect, you just mark your holes and drill them....I used a jigsaw to make the larger PID holes. I erred on the small side and filed out the holes until I got a nice fit.
 
Yambor44 said:
I want to throw this out for a small debate...

Are the heat sinks REALLY necessary?

I am working on a control panel myself now and it's my first time using SSRs. I asked if it was ok to mount the sinks inside the box. Mine is plastic. Consensus is cooling is very important. Use the sinks.

Nice project by the way.
 
When I laid out my box I covered all the surfaces to be cut/drilled in masking tape. Then I measured everything and marked it with PENCIL (erasers are nice). I then positioned all the components and made sure I liked their arrangement, and once I was satisfied I went back and drew over the pencil marks with a permanent marker.

The computer printout is a good idea. I tried it for a min, but I ended up abandoning it out of frustration. It just took me too long, and I wanted to see how things actually would look, which is why I went with the tape. An added benefit of the tape is it provides an extra layer of protection for the paint if you aren't planning on repainting it.

I didn't notice if you mentioned it, but if you have a plastic box like me I highly recommend starting the holes with the point of a razor knife before drilling to prevent the bit from walking. If it's metal use a center punch (a finish nail will work in a pinch, but punches are cheap). That will save you some serious heartbreak.
 
One thing I learned when laying out my box: I originally wanted everything on the lid:

controlbox_outside.jpg


I found out it was a LOT easier to fit everything in the box by putting the electronics through the side. It is also less hassle with wires because you can have everything in place with the lid off.

As you can see, things get tight in there very, very quickly.

controlbox_wired.jpg


Just another option for ya :)

-Joe
 
As you can see, things get tight in there very, very quickly.

There is always a bigger box. I am an electrical contractor. More times than I care to remember, I have seen people try to put 10 lbs of $hit in a 1lb box. It is best to get all your components, lay them out roughly, measure, leave room for your fingers and then get your box.

**edit** just read this back and I mean no offense nostalgia. Your project looks very nice. You have some nice components in there. My point is you did this awesome build and sacrificed your original goal because the box was too small. My $0.02.
 
Back on track. After vacation and catching back up at work (meaning I have been procrastinating due to fear of cutting the box!!!)

Heres the basic layout (I forgot the E-stop last time and the bottom view).


The bottom. Everything but the gray receptacle is upside down for measuring purposes.


And so the cutting begins...and ends... that didn't take long. Broke the set screw.


Luckily I had another one! Started cutting again. One down...three to go!






...and then the second set screw broke while I was replacing the cutting wheel for the 2nd hole!!
 
One thing I learned when laying out my box: I originally wanted everything on the lid:

controlbox_outside.jpg


I found out it was a LOT easier to fit everything in the box by putting the electronics through the side. It is also less hassle with wires because you can have everything in place with the lid off.

As you can see, things get tight in there very, very quickly.

controlbox_wired.jpg


Just another option for ya :)

-Joe


Where's your heat sinks??
 
Underneath the SSRs. The fan blows directly across the heat sinks and vents out holes in the back. It works a treat.

Like this, but with the heat sinks turned 90 degrees so the air blows across the fins.

control_wiring1.jpg


-Joe
 
Well.................. sorry to leave in the middle of the game but as some of you know I have sold this Brutus 10 stand and the kettles. I have ordered a Speidel Braumeister 50L and have about 1-2 more weeks before it should arrive. I do have most of the electrical components left if anyone decides they want or need something, shoot me a PM for pricing. It will be less than I paid and will include shipping to the lower 48.

Sorry. :eek:
 
Do you have your PID's yet or did you sell them? I would buy one or two from you rather than Auber if you are interested.
 
onthekeg said:
Do you have your PID's yet or did you sell them? I would buy one or two from you rather than Auber if you are interested.

I have two PIDS left along with the SSR's and heat sinks along with everything else. The only components that are gone went with the RIMS TUBE I sold last week. Shot me a PM on exactly what you may be in need of and I'll give you a package price.
 
Just sent this PM to nostalgia but if any of you can add perspective on the amount of heat from the SSR heat sink, I would be grateful.

"Was curious, how hot do your heat sinks actually get? I just finished my plain jane control box and an finishing up my subpanel wiring in my garage this week. I currently have my heat sink in a sort of crowded box.

I have two concerns:
1. heat sink getting too hot for the space.
2. that I wired my contactors backwards.

the heat sink is clearly the greater issue :)

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/electric-burners-any-builders-out-there-228720/index25.html

Last page of the thread shows my end result pics

At the closest point there is a wire 3/4'' from the SSR.

I was debating about putting a fan in, or cutting slots in the top for the heat to vent out, or cutting a hole in the side wall of the project box and relocating the sink outside the box. Or a combination of each.

Obviously the build got a little crowded in my project box.

You have any suggestions from your personal experience?"

My SSR and heat sink appear to be the same as nostalgias and I am planning on using a 5500w element. Obviously the sink would get warmer with the more current draw.

Thanks all
 
Yeah I got smart and checked your parts list at the beginning.

I made my control box to use one PID for both elements - never running both at the same time. Otherwise I would jump on a PID.

Thanks anyway!
 
No sweat!

To everyone else, I have a PM into someone interested in some or all of what I have left. Once he/she is finished I will post all or what is left to see if there is any interest before placing in the classifieds.

Thanks again to everyone for all of your help. Sorry to let you down but I thought it would be easier (wiser/safer) for me to simplify my brewing process electrically with the Braumeister as I don't know anything about all of this. If I had something not working at any given time, chances are I wouldn't know how to fix it.
 

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