Camco 1500 watt ULWD Elements

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seatbelt123

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I just did my first batch with a pair of these elements. It was with a fairly high gravity (1070) beer. These elements replaced a pair of Camcorder HWD 2000w elements that were scorching with bigger beers.

These performed well and easily got 7 gallons to a rolling boil.

They cost about $15 each on amazon.

image-479676314.jpg
 
I use those. Have easily boiled VIGOROUSLY a 7g. boil. I have two in my HLT and another one in my BK right now. They last a long time from what I understand as well.
 
I really wanted to use this model in my RIMS tube but when it arrived it was soooo stubby.... I figured I would be better off with a longer LWD than this short stubby ULWD.
 
I'm guessing you ordered Camco 02853, but got an 02852 which is not Ultra LWD. Take a look at the number on the element.


Ask me how I know. :eek:
 
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Oh, what the heck. I'll tell you.

I got one of those from Amazon today. The tag on the shrink wrapped package read 02853, but a 02852 was inside. It's way shorter than the 02853, so can't be low density. I couldn't find any reference to a Camco 02852 anywhere, but did a quick test and it did draw 12 amps at 125V, so it is 1500W. But the surface area is way too small.

Just tried ordering the same element from these guys. I added a note asking them to compare the number on the packaging to the number on the element. I'll let you know what they deliver.
 
Oh, what the heck. I'll tell you.

I got one of those from Amazon today. The tag on the shrink wrapped package read 02853, but a 02852 was inside. It's way shorter than the 02853, so can't be low density. I couldn't find any reference to a Camco 02852 anywhere, but did a quick test and it did draw 12 amps at 125V, so it is 1500W. But the surface area is way too small.

Just tried ordering the same element from these guys. I added a note asking them to compare the number on the packaging to the number on the element. I'll let you know what they deliver.


You know what pisses me off about this. I did the same thing. I even returned it to amazon and bought another one because they SWORE that i was shipped the wrong one. NOPE. Same wrong element.... I left them a bad review as did other people and now all of those reviews are GONE!!! What a scam...

I tried to help others by leaving a bad review explaining exactly what you said since it happened to me too... TWICE! It still says 12 inches too! ridiculous!
 
Funny! Before this I ordered a Camco 02463 from Amazon and got a 02462. The one I got wasn't even a fold back element, much less low density. These element are coming from Amazon WarehouseDeals. Must be seconds and rejects.

On a positive note. They take stuff back and refund before they even get it. And only "suggested" that I return it.

From Amazon:

Instead, I've requested a full refund of $9.07, since you received the wrong item. This refund will appear as a credit on your MasterCard in the next 2-3 business days.

I'd suggest that you return this item back to us. We'll also pay for the return shipping charges.
 
Amazon's return policy is great. They shipped me a new set of gloves earlier in the year, complete with a pre-paid shipping return label.
 
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I have one of those as well. I can't believe the two I got aren't ULWD. I was just thinking the other day that it didn't make sense that they were so much smaller than my 1650w element yet they were supposedly ULWD. Grrrr. :mad:

I only wish i could find a 240v version.
 
You can wire two of the 1650 watt elements in series for one ULWD 3300 watt element set. Or you can wire 4 in series / parallel for one ULWD 6600 watt element set that will draw about 27.5 amps from a dryer circuit.
 
You can wire two of the 1650 watt elements in series for one ULWD 3300 watt element set. Or you can wire 4 in series / parallel for one ULWD 6600 watt element set that will draw about 27.5 amps from a dryer circuit.

Personally I like being able to switch each element on/off at will. Helps control a boil or keep sparge/strike water just where I want it.
 
My Camco 02853 came from hardwareandtools.com today. No better than Amazon. I got the same mislabled 02852 element from them too. Now I just have to hope that their return policy is as good as Amazon.

Going to give the Drill Spot element a try. :cross:
 
Great customer service from Hardware and Tools!

Thank you for ordering from hardwareandtools.com, I apologize for the inconvenience of receiving an incorrect item. I have spoken with Camco regarding the element. They have stated that the part number is not the reason for the item being different. The 02852 is labeled on the part because that is how they sell it in bulk, without packaging or shrink wrap. Once the item is carded it becomes Model 02853. However, their engineering department did make a change to Model 02852/02853. They made the item shorter, but state that it works the same as it did before and should not be an issue if you were replacing that older version of the same model. Since we listed the item incorrectly when we stated that it was 12 inches, we have issued you a full refund back to your original form of payment. We do not need to receive the item back, you may discard of it. Again, we apologize for any inconvenience and if you have any further questions, or concerns, please feel free to contact me direct.

--
Stephanie
Customer Service
Hardware and Tools Corp.
540-572-4000 Ext. 1001
[email protected]

I guess that if you're heating water in a water heater the length doesn't matter. Just the wattage, so replacing with a shorter element is not a problem. Still, they really should stop advertising it as ULWD.
 
Great customer service from Hardware and Tools!



I guess that if you're heating water in a water heater the length doesn't mater. Just the wattage, so replacing with a shorter element is not a problem. Still, they really should stop advertising it as ULWD.

FREEEE!!

Beverage Factory is replacing my regulator and doesn't want old one back either. Always nice when that happens.
 
What attracted me to this thread was the topic of 120V ULWD elements. Stupid idea, I know, but what I've been experimenting with is a direct heat EMLT with an element in the tun instead of recirculation. Even with stirring while the element is on, scorching can be a problem.

So, here's my recent thought. Since finding the right element in a 120 version has been a problem, will a 240 element wired to 120 work? You'd get 1/4 the rated wattage, so a 4500W element would become 1125W. In a fold back element, that may be about the right watt density to not scorch the mash, but still be enough heat for holding mash temperatures and gradual steps.
 
My 1650w element is pretty big. It's about 12" (off top of my head) and it folds back too. Density is probably about 100w/inch. Doesn't even affect my pvc hoses when running off mash into BK, and it was resting right on the element.
 
Thanks! That's what I wanted to hear. I have one of the 1650W elements on the way, but was having second thoughts and considering the 240V element instead.

That Emerson 1650 is considered LWD, but I couldn't find the actual density listed anywhere. From what I've read:

HWD=150 watts/sq in
LWD=75 watts/sq in
ULWD=50 watts/sq in

But I don't know if there's an actual standard or if it varies by manufacturer.
 
My 1500w camco has debris on it after brewing but I think it was mostly hop-gunk. It scrubs off easily enough.
 
thargrav said:
You can wire two of the 1650 watt elements in series for one ULWD 3300 watt element set. Or you can wire 4 in series / parallel for one ULWD 6600 watt element set that will draw about 27.5 amps from a dryer circuit.

False. Two elements in series will run at 1/4 of the power at the same voltage due to the doubled resistance and subsequent halved current.
 
False. Two elements in series will run at 1/4 of the power at the same voltage due to the doubled resistance and subsequent halved current.
So, do you agree with my thinking that if I take a 4500 watt / 240 volt foldback element and wire it with 120 volts it will be the same as having an ULWD 1125 watt / 120 volt element?
 
You can wire two of the 1650 watt elements in series for one ULWD 3300 watt element set. Or you can wire 4 in series / parallel for one ULWD 6600 watt element set that will draw about 27.5 amps from a dryer circuit.
False. Two elements in series will run at 1/4 of the power at the same voltage due to the doubled resistance and subsequent halved current.
OP is correct. The elements mentioned are 120V elements. Wired in series on a 240V line will give you 3300 watts each. Doing a parallel wiring of 2 of these wired series will give you 6600 watts heating and consume 27.5A on a 240V circuit.
 
False. Two elements in series will run at 1/4 of the power at the same voltage due to the doubled resistance and subsequent halved current.

You didn't read the entire post - two 120V elements wired in series across 240V will give you twice the wattage.

And paralleling two in series (2+2) will give you 4X the wattage across a very large area since the elements are already low density.
 
A caution about the Emerson element, it's zinc plated. Not so good for an acid environment.
So, how "not so good" is "not so good?"

Are we looking at health risks, damage to the element or what?

And is the approx 5.2 pH of wort going to cause a problem?
 
The zinc plating will dissolve into the wort at that pH. That might present a health risk. Once the zinc was dissolved you would be down to the copper plating layer over the base metal of the element. I'd look for an Inconel element if possible, it's very corrosion resistant.
 
The zinc plating will dissolve into the wort at that pH. That might present a health risk.
It's the "might" part that I'm interested in. I've been doing some searching, but can't find anything conclusive. There are probably many, many brewers who have used the zinc plated elements. Are any of you growing a third nut? :cross:



I did find this thread.
 
My Camco 02853 came from hardwareandtools.com today. No better than Amazon. I got the same mislabled 02852 element from them too. Now I just have to hope that their return policy is as good as Amazon.

Going to give the Drill Spot element a try. :cross:

I did the same thing, and ordered the 02853 from Amazon. It arrived the stubby one too, with label of 02852. I called Camco. The lady on the phone said the 02582 is the part number of the base. :confused: She said they changed designs, and it is now more "efficient" to have the smaller element. She assured me it was the right element, and indeed was ULWD. I am not exactly sold though. :confused:
 
She assured me it was the right element, and indeed was ULWD. I am not exactly sold though. :confused:
Since watt density is measured in watts per square inch, how can you reduce the surface area while keeping the same wattage and call it the same watt density? Sure, it still puts out the same amount of heat, but I think "more efficient" means cheaper for them to manufacture.
 
Since watt density is measured in watts per square inch, how can you reduce the surface area while keeping the same wattage and call it the same watt density? Sure, it still puts out the same amount of heat, but I think "more efficient" means cheaper for them to manufacture.

Didn't exactly make sense to me either.
 
It's the "might" part that I'm interested in. I've been doing some searching, but can't find anything conclusive. There are probably many, many brewers who have used the zinc plated elements. Are any of you growing a third nut? :cross:

No, but I DID grow a second.....:D
 
If zinc were a problem then electric water heaters would not contain zinc plated elements. And all water heaters, gas or electric, would not contain zinc sacrificial anodes. But they do and the zinc from these parts bleeds into your hot water every day.
 
If zinc were a problem then electric water heaters would not contain zinc plated elements. And all water heaters, gas or electric, would not contain zinc sacrificial anodes. But they do and the zinc from these parts bleeds into your hot water every day.

Electric water heaters aren't exposed to an acidic environment like our boil kettles and RIMS systems are.

I thought most sacrificial anodes were magnesium.
 
Wurt is not that acidic which is why you can use copper and brass fittings in brewpots. Beer gets more acidic as it ferments and the acidity shows on the inside of any brass fittings, like brass faucets you may have installed in your kegerator. And BTW, modern brass is a alloy of copper and zinc. The anodes are zinc, not magnesium. Magnesium would react violently with water.
 
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