Mash Tun Filter Choice?

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jeffdill

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I have about 10 extract batches under my belt and I think it's the right time to make the switch to all-grain. Problem is, it seems like everyone is recommending something different in how you build the mash tun.

I see different types of filters being mentioned - false bottom, braided stainless steel, high temp PVC, etc etc. How do you choose which of these is best? Does it matter?

I'm planning on using a Coleman Xtreme 50 qt rectangular cooler, it seems like those are popular.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Coleman-Xtreme-50-Quart-Wheeled-Cooler/14574676
 
The sparge method you choose will dictate this for you (to a degree). Look at Denny Conn's site (http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/). I expect you'll end up doing a batch sparge - braided stainless or a bazooka will work well.

Keep in mind preferences (like mine above) are often based on what the brewer uses and not everything that we have tried.

Good luck.
 
I have the braided steel filter. It works great for me (I have only done 3 AG batches). The first time I did an AG batch the braided steel was not secured properly and came off, it was a huge pain in the a$$. If you build it correctly it works great though.
 
I can't say I'm too familiar with fly sparging, just watched a video on it, but it seems like most people do batch sparging?
 
To be honest, it really doesn't matter. Most of the time, cost and ease of use are the prime factors in choosing a false bottom/manifold/braid.

If you're fly sparging, you'll probably want a false bottom, since you want to avoid channelling and a false bottom covers the bottom well and helps with that. But otherwise, it doesn't matter.
 
I have 2 set ups, one with a false bottom when I fly sparge and one with a cpvc manifold when I batch sparge. I do get better effeciancy when I fly sparge if that helps ya decide.


false bottom= fly sparging
manifold, bazooka tube, braid= batch sparge
 
I use two different setups if I'm doing a single step infusion I tend to use a 10 gallon igloo with a false bottom. I've had very little issues with stuck sparges etc. with this setup. My other is a 10 gallon mega pot with a bazooka tube I find easier for step mashes, the bazooka tube occasionally has clogged on me but I find that is a rare event especially if I add hulls and loosen my grind up a bit as well as add a .5 lb more base to compensate for efficiency.
 
Or you can try BIAB if you have a big enough pot. That's what I did and it wasn't very complicated at all, just make sure you have a good thermometer.
 
If you get the Coleman Xtreme cooler, make sure it has the trough at the spigot. I'm not sure the wheeled ones do. I use a SS braided line. Never had a stuck sparge and my efficiency is in the neighborhood of 80% or better. Braided line is simple to assemble, cheap. Like most things in home brewing, there is more than one way to do things, you have to decide what works works best for you. Sometimes you have to use trial and error, but in this case a braided line is simple to use and simple to remove if you want to go through the time and expense of making a manifold of copper or PVC in the future.
 
I made copper manifolds for my MLT's. They aren't too expensive to make albeit not as cheap or simple as a braided hose, but they have worked well and I have had great efficiency and I fly sparge no problems with them.
 
I decided to go with the SS braided line. I'm going to follow the instructions in this video, already bought the same cooler and supplies:

[ame]www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftY_HZAFJFc[/ame]

I know I can't use the galvinized wire inside the braid so I got copper instead. Problem is I can't find a 1/2" SS conduit locknut anywhere.

Could I possibly use a SS regular washer on the inside and use a galvinized conduit locknut on the outside (since it wouldn't actually contact any liquid)?

What fasteners did you use to get a good seal with the ball valve?
 
I suggest following these instructions from Lustre King

His supply List.

3/4" Stainless Steel Washer
3/4" Zinc Washer(s)
1/2" x 1.5" Brass Nipple (You may need a longer nipple if your cooler walls are thicker)
1/2" Ball Valve
1/2" Hose Barb Adapter (1/2" Barb x 1/2" FIP)
Stainless Steel Hose Clamp
Teflon Tape

braidclamped.jpg


See the channel.

Helps drain all the wort.
 
fly sparge is the way to go once you master it.the trick is to take it slow and get every last bit of suger out of it.dont go too far with some of the lighter beers or you could get some bitter tastes out of it a good rule of thumb is to stop when your gravity is at about 1.010.if you go with a square cooler you will want to use pvc or copper slotted tubing to get the best results but i recomend a 10 gal round cooler and a stainless steel false bottom if your going to use a cooler.happy brewing!
 
BrewBeer74 said:
fly sparge is the way to go once you master it.the trick is to take it slow and get every last bit of suger out of it.dont go too far with some of the lighter beers or you could get some bitter tastes out of it a good rule of thumb is to stop when your gravity is at about 1.010.if you go with a square cooler you will want to use pvc or copper slotted tubing to get the best results but i recomend a 10 gal round cooler and a stainless steel false bottom if your going to use a cooler.happy brewing!
Click to expand...

I completely disagree. Batch spargeing is much simpler and alot less equipment.
Open the valve and drain. Fill with sparge water. Wait a few min, open valve and drain. No monitoring of wort gravity, is over in a few min.
 
jeffdill said:
Ah...would have been nice. This one is the only one that the store had. I'll just have to deal with tipping it I guess.
Click to expand...

Now is your chance to return it and get one with a channel from Wal-Mart. You're going to have it a long time.
 
ive had really good results doing it this way and my efficiency has also gone up because of it.bolth ways work well just gotta be more patient when fly sparging thats all.why would you need more equipment?
 
BrewBeer74 said:
ive had really good results doing it this way and my efficiency has also gone up because of it.bolth ways work well just gotta be more patient when fly sparging thats all.why would you need more equipment?
Click to expand...

Hmmm...Sparge arm. Then it takes what..an hour to fill the kettle. And all the while you have to monitor the gravity.
 
I use a cup sanitized, with holes like a shower head poked in the bottom. Big enough reservoir to pour with a sanitized pitcher a few times, of course I always have a buddy with me too, we brew together. Then I test the runnings at the end when it starts clearing up, and test the gravity of the whole of it pre-boil. I've never really thought it to be extra work much. Takes me about 40 minutes to fill the kettle, could probably go faster, but don't want a stuck sparge.
 
dbhokie said:
I use a cup sanitized, with holes like a shower head poked in the bottom. Big enough reservoir to pour with a sanitized pitcher a few times, of course I always have a buddy with me too, we brew together. Then I test the runnings at the end when it starts clearing up, and test the gravity of the whole of it pre-boil. I've never really thought it to be extra work much. Takes me about 40 minutes to fill the kettle, could probably go faster, but don't want a stuck sparge.
Click to expand...

Why would you sanitize? I never sanitize anything pre-boil. Boil kills everything.
 
Special Hops said:
Why would you sanitize? I never sanitize anything pre-boil. Boil kills everything.
Click to expand...

+1... Everything in the mash tun is infected with lacto anyways..

Edit: Forgot to add that I just use SS dish scrubbies with a SS tee and 2 90's as a filter..
 
I batch sparge and went with CPVC manifold. It was easy to make and easy to cut/drill with basic tools. I have redesigned it since I upgraded to a 70 qt Coleman Extreme cooler. Initially I used a 48 qt cooler with a CPVC manifold that I made using a jigsaw to cut "slats" with and it had too many crosspieces. Now I use a much cleaner and higher efficency design which I drilled small holes into. This one took a little longer to make and I used a small bench drill press, however no issues with stuck sparges and my efficiency has gone up.

beerloaf
 
Special Hops said:
Why would you sanitize? I never sanitize anything pre-boil. Boil kills everything.
Click to expand...

I have solution prepared, and I like being safe. It isn't all about cleanliness, makes me feel more comfortable about ensuring taste and consistency as well, so I do it the same way every time. I continually sanitize everything, perhaps out of habit from having to meet regulations making hot sauce. I've got a bit there, and a drying rack, why not? It's not an extra step, its just toss it in and pull it out. (I have multiple roommates, and no telling what nasty tasting whatevers may lurk in there)

I boil, or sanitize everything. I tend to sterilize jars when working with yeast, overkill, sure, does it matter that I do it, not a bit.

I've never had an infection so far, or any undesired flavors. I've always had very high efficiency. The question for me is why would I change anything, unless I can see it leading to something cleaner and more sure of prohibiting anything uncontrolled from entering my process, or unless it will lead to an increase in efficiency or a desired flavor profile. Why sanitize pre-boil, it's there, and I am anally retentive, and it causes me no extra work.

EDIT: I crush pretty fine and fly sparge, and have never had a stuck sparge as well.
 
dbhokie said:
I have solution prepared, and I like being safe. It isn't all about cleanliness, makes me feel more comfortable about ensuring taste and consistency as well, so I do it the same way every time. I continually sanitize everything, perhaps out of habit from having to meet regulations making hot sauce. I've got a bit there, and a drying rack, why not? It's not an extra step, its just toss it in and pull it out. (I have multiple roommates, and no telling what nasty tasting whatevers may lurk in there)

I boil, or sanitize everything. I tend to sterilize jars when working with yeast, overkill, sure, does it matter that I do it, not a bit.

I've never had an infection so far, or any undesired flavors. I've always had very high efficiency. The question for me is why would I change anything, unless I can see it leading to something cleaner and more sure of prohibiting anything uncontrolled from entering my process, or unless it will lead to an increase in efficiency or a desired flavor profile. Why sanitize pre-boil, it's there, and I am anally retentive, and it causes me no extra work.

EDIT: I crush pretty fine and fly sparge, and have never had a stuck sparge as well.
Click to expand...

You haven't had an infection because you boil the wort and that kills the bad guys.

I crush pretty fine and batch sparge with a SS braided hose and never had a stuck sparge or had to pour hot water through a cup with holes in it for an hour or had to monitor the gravity while I sparge so that I don't extract tannins.
 
i have fly sparged without a sparge arm many a times and it works just fine.i dont mind taking the extra time to do this type of sparge.once you get good at it you dont have to monitor the gravity.plus you can get higher gravity beers out of smaller mash tuns.its just a personal preferance thats all.cheers.
 
jetmac said:
You haven't had an infection because you boil the wort and that kills the bad guys.

I crush pretty fine and batch sparge with a SS braided hose and never had a stuck sparge or had to pour hot water through a cup with holes in it for an hour or had to monitor the gravity while I sparge so that I don't extract tannins.
Click to expand...

This is just an observation, don't take this the wrong way, but you seem very bitter. Let the guy fly sparge and sanitize his preboil stuff :D

For what its worth, I batch sparge and would never sanitize preboil, no reason to and I'm lazy on top of it.

Cheers :tank:
 
my new choice after today is the nylon 5 gallon bucket strainer for paint . bought at Sherwin Williams for a couple bucks . Wrap around one of them stainless steel false bottom domes or what I use a 5 gallon bucket lid modified https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f85/my-new-mash-tun-filter-376005/ Fantastic and no worry about vorlauf as it runs clean wide open on the first try.
Also this paint strainer is very good for pouring your wort through after boiling to remove grains , hops and other things you use . makes for much easier fermentation and siphoning .
 

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