OT: Brake pads, Rust penetrants

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beergears

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OK, Subaru needs brake pads. This is NOT a rallye car BTW, just commute, shop, vacation..

-- Conventional pads vs. newer formulations like ceramic, etc...?

-- Good performance rust penetrant for the shade tree mechanic...?


What says you?


Note: I found out that the crazy Jeep folks mix acetone and ATF fluid for rust...(weird)
 
I put pfc carbon metallics on my civic I had when I put rims on it. My stopping really improved. Never squealed at all either. You can get them at Autozone with a life time warranty. Pretty good deal. I plan to put them on the camry I have now whenever I need to replace the pads.


Not sure what you mean by Good performance rust penetrant
 
Oh wait.....you mean for rusted bolts and what not.

I use some stuff called PB Blaster that works wonders. Spray it on and let it sit for a bit. Penetrates like no other.
 
I put pfc carbon metallics on my civic I had when I put rims on it. My stopping really improved. Never squealed at all either. You can get them at Autozone with a life time warranty.

Not sure what you mean by Good performance rust penetrant


What is your rotor wear with the PFCs..?

I am looking for a rust-penetrating fluid that works well and fast, saving me time if I encounter a frozen/rusted bolt or two...
 
I forgot to mention that my Subaru had these spacers and metal shims (at least on the rear, which I did before) and I am tempted to just get the OEM complete set (pads + shims), as the shims will not be easily reusable/get mangled during removal...
 
I've always had good luck with Liquid Wrench, it's an "old school" brand that still works great. The aerosol variety foams and bubbles when you spray it on, which seems to help it penetrate.

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I had them on my civic for about 5 years (same set of pads). I didn't have any probs with excessive wear. The car was about 6 years old when I got it, and I think it had the original rotors. I never changed them, but I have them turned when I put the new pads on. Definitely awesome brake pads.
 
I forgot to mention that my Subaru had these spacers and metal shims (at least on the rear, which I did before) and I am tempted to just get the OEM complete set (pads + shims), as the shims will not be easily reusable/get mangled during removal...

Those are probably anti squeal shims some new pads come with new shims and some do not. I cannot remember if my PFCs did or not. But I think you can buy extra shims at autozone.
 
I have always used Semi-Metallic pads and the Wd-40 that is not in a spray can. The kind you buy in the jug and put into a squirt bottle.
 
Whatever pads you get, do not get any of the 2 year warranty deals from auto zone or similar places. I use to work at Auto Zone, and believe me......they reason they give you a 2 year warranty, is because they will only last a bit longer than that. That goes for any car part from an auto parts store. Buy the lifetime warranty items. Also, buy the anti squeal grease they try to sell with the brake pads. The synthetic if they have it. (synthetic will last longer).
 
Confused, is semi-metallic similar to carbon-metallic..?

I need to find a brake pad technology timeline..!

Other: I was watching the British show "Topgear', good stuff, and they went to search for the first antique car with the setup (foot brake, accel etc.) that became what we drive today.. answer was the 1917 Cadillac, soon copied by the Austin 7
 
+1 on PB Blaster for penetrant.(if you use penetrant anywhere around the brakes make sure you remove it with an aresol brake clean. and dont get any on the new pads. penetrant can cause your pads to glaze and reduce stopping power if left on the rotor or gotten on the new pads) the result is brake fade.
+1 on anti-squeal shims(some brakes will squeal depending on the composition of the friction material and the shims help reduce this)
on the 2 year shoes and pads- alot of them are bonded(glued) to the backing metal making it possible(though not likely) for the pad to separate from the backing material
lifetime pads- they are usually bonded and riveted to the backing material. They are made of a harder composition which will result in more wear to the rotor. Depending on the cost of the rotor and ease of replacing it, sometimes it is better to go with the cheaper softer pads.
 
Confused, is semi-metallic similar to carbon-metallic..?

I need to find a brake pad technology timeline..!

Other: I was watching the British show "Topgear', good stuff, and they went to search for the first antique car with the setup (foot brake, accel etc.) that became what we drive today.. answer was the 1917 Cadillac, soon copied by the Austin 7

SEMI-METALLIC BRAKES

Definition: A type of brake lining that uses steel wool instead of asbestos as a reinforcing fiber. Semi-metallic brakes give better high temperature performance and wear characteristics then conventional asbestos linings. They are commonly used on the front disc brakes of front-wheel drive passenger cars. Asbestos pads should never be substituted for semi-metallic pads when relining the brakes. Rapid brake wear will result

What is Carbon Metallic®?
Carbon Metallic®, sometimes called CM in the industry, is the brand name of PFC's most well known brake pads and will be the brand best suited for the majority of people. Carbon Metallic® offers superior braking, pedal feel, and longer life without fade at high temperatures There are over a dozen varieties of Carbon Metallic®, each custom manufactured for a specific vehicle application. Carbon Metallic® is completely different from an organic or semi-metallic pads, which often use clay as fillers to reduce costs. Fillers also diminish performance ñ something PFC takes very seriously and will not compromise. Carbon Metallic® unique friction formula contains no fillers - no asbestos, no lead, and no kevlar.
 
PB Blaster is the shissit.... ;) I've used to use WD-40 all the time, which is not a penetrate (just a light oil). PB works like a hot damn, and works even better if you heat up the trouble area before use.
 
When you have friction something is going to wear. Would you rather the wear be on you $50 pads or your $150 discs. I wouldn't put any hard compound pads on standard discs. Minimising brake dust is nice, but rotors are a bigger pain to replace than discs.
As far as rust penetrants, selleys RP7. Why? Because it smells the nicest :D
Does the job well too.
signed:
From someone who has spent $300 on new discs recently, plus another $150 on all the bearnings and seals that I needed to replace when changing discs, and someone who a lot of time with old 1970s project cars, and airconditioners in their job so used a lot of penetrant sprays.
edit: Back in the '90s, a few people tried ceramic apex seals in their rotaries (my experience in 1970s cars), end result was worn rotor housings. Save $300 on apex seals, spend $1700 on a new front, middle, rear endplates and rotor housings.
 
... Would you rather the wear be on you $50 pads or your $150 discs.///

I may be wrong here, but my limited experience tells me quality (not hi-perf) non-OEM rotors are not that expensive, or difficult to swap...?!

I did put Brembo rear discs on my Subaru a few years ago and that was the easiest part of the brake job, took 4 minutes..!

Edit to add: It looks like it is not even worth resurfacing current discs, slap new ones and done.
 
When you have friction something is going to wear. Would you rather the wear be on you $50 pads or your $150 discs. I wouldn't put any hard compound pads on standard discs. Minimising brake dust is nice, but rotors are a bigger pain to replace than discs.

I agree. Most modern cars are designed to use semi-metallic pads, but on older ones (particularly Japanese cars, in my experience) they don't work any better, tend to squeal, and wear out the rotors prematurely. I always replace with the same kind of pads the car was originally equipped with.

For anybody working on disc brakes, this gadget is well worth the $4.00. Works MUCH better than a C-clamp.

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DISC BRAKE PAD PISTON COMPRESSOR
 
I may be wrong here, but my limited experience tells me quality (not hi-perf) non-OEM rotors are not that expensive, or difficult to swap...?!

I did put Brembo rear discs on my Subaru a few years ago and that was the easiest part of the brake job, took 4 minutes..!

+1 on that. most OEM or OEM replacement rotors for small cars are inexpensive and easy to change. I wasn't sure on the price of Subaru parts(thought they might be a little pricey) hence the recommendation that it might be better to use softer pads. SWMBO's cavi was only $20 per. after changing the first set I took them to checker for free turning and tossed them in the garage. next time I did brakes on her car I installed the already turned rotors and took the other set in to be turned. it only made sense, since used discs are usually slightly warped from hard braking on worn out pads.
 
I may be wrong here, but my limited experience tells me quality (not hi-perf) non-OEM rotors are not that expensive, or difficult to swap...?!

I did put Brembo rear discs on my Subaru a few years ago and that was the easiest part of the brake job, took 4 minutes..!

Edit to add: It looks like it is not even worth resurfacing current discs, slap new ones and done.

+1 on the PB Blaster

+10 on the Brembo brakes. I recommend them over any other brand, that is for non high performance brakes. The shim's that you were talking about should, 9/10 times are in the pads box, just check before you leave the parts store. Rotors will cost 75+ depending on the year and grade.
 
I love hawk performance HPS pads. I had their HP Plus pads and they will throw you from your seat but they are a little tough on the rotors.
 
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