fermenting problem?

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captaineriv

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Hi everyone. This is my first batch and I used the Cooper's 3.3 lb ingredient kit that includes the malt and dried yeast. Also, my local homebrew store reccomended that I use 3.3 lbs more of malt for 5 gallons. I did all of this, combined the wort to the water in my fermenter, gave it a few brisk stirs to aerate, took an initial hydrometer reading of 1.041, and pitched the ale yeast at around 83-84 degrees (so said my brewing thermometer). Just as expected, the float piece in the airlock rose, bubbling started around 18 hours following pitching, and peak bubbling (1 bubble every 2-3 seconds) started at around 36 hours. However, at just less than 24 hours after peak bubbling, the bubbling stopped completely (I watched it for a while) and the floating piece in the airlock is no longer pressed up against the airlock's cap like it had been. The temperature in the room has not changed from 70-72 and there is a very good seal on the fermenter. From what I've read, it seems a little too soon for fermentation to subside so drastically for using 6.6 lbs of liquid malt. Is this a correct assumption? If so, can anyone offer some possible solutions. Also, is it too late to add more yeast to restart the process or has the damage been done? Any help would be great!
 
hey cap-

congrats on your first brew. i dont think i'd worry if i were you. my first brew did the same as yours- airlock started bubbling rapidly about 15 hours after pitching the yeast and then stopped totally in after about 24-30 hours. sometimes the yeast just goes nuts. the beer turned out very well for a first brew and the supply was ravaged by friends and family and lasted about 2 weeks.

i'd let it chill in the primary for 5-7 days then transfer to your carboy for another week or 2. if you just have a primary, check the hydro reading after 5 days and see what's what.

sounds like you're makin beer! :drunk:
 
Thanks for replying so quickly! I think I'll take a hydro reading on day 5 or so and see what's going on in there. I'll definitely let you guys know if I find out anything new. If it's a low ABV, I can always pretend I'm drinking Mich Ultra ;)

Thanks again
captaineriv
 
I see you mixed the wort with the water,
and "gave it a sir or two to aerate!!!!"

It needs violent shaking for 5-6 minutes,

{set the timer.}
then it is aerated.
Boiling water removes all the oxygen,
the yeast needs to breath and oxygen must be reintroduced.


Pour it out and start anew...


Read the pappazian book.


You are learning.


I have brewed for 12-13 years,
and I poured out 10 gallons last month,
{dead yeast,}


Yeast is a little critter,
and not only likes to breath,
but it hates summer heat, too.



We are all learning,



Luck, Knife
 
Take a hydrometer reading before you do anything! It may be done and you could very well have beer there!

Jack makes a good point - you need to get a lot of oxygen in there! I usually cover the carboy with plastic wrap, shake the heck out of it by rocking it back and forth, add the yeast, then rock back and forth some more! Then, I plug the airlock on!

Congrats on your 1st! :D
 
My brew kit instructions always say to just pour it in violently. Don't worry no malts were harmed! Anyway it's been working for me.


I did read on howtobrew.com the other day to pour the yeast starter in first and shake it up. That seems a lot easier than shaking a fermenter full of wort.
 
Don't pour it out! It's fine! If you got active fermentation, you've got beer. It's just done. You may also have a small leak, which prevents the airlock from bubbling. Let it go a few more days, then rack to the secondary. Or, let it go another week in the primary, bottle, enjoy. Also... relax.

"Without a doubt the single and most dramatically significant thing that can spoil the taste of your beer is . . . worrying." -The Home Brewer's Companion
 
You always want to introduce as much oxygen into the wort as possible. That's why all the shakin'. :) Some people have devised attachments to their drill motors to oxygenate their wort.
 
i let the wort 'free-fall' from the spigot on my plastic bucket into the 6.5 gallon carboy. i give it a nice 3 foot drop and it slashes like hell in the carboy. When I'm done doing this, it almost looks like the wort already has krauesen on top of it.

-walker

ps; forgive any typos.... half crocked and brewing up my coffee stout at the moment.
 
I agree w/ others. Don't throw it out!!! Relax!!! Sooner than you think you'll be drinkin that stuff!!! In fact I think I'm going to get one of mine and drink it!!!
_________________________

Tim
 
Thank you all for the replies. I took a hydrometer reading today and it appears it's just done. Had a few people tell me that the Cooper's yeast acts pretty fast, especially in the warmer ambient air temperature of my house, and that the 6.6 lbs (I actually used a little less than 6.6) of LME wasn't all that much for 5 gallons for being the only fermentable sugars I added. But anyway, the hydro reading today was 1.015 and the initial was 1.041. Everyone who replied to my post in the Beginner forum of this site said that based on those readings, it won't ferment anymore in the primary. So off to the secondary it goes tomorrow. But next time, I'll still make sure I aerate the crap out of it before I seal it up.

captaineriv
 
Hi,

This me again,
and I was just reading this old post,
as the suns not near up yet.
I have discovered what happened to the 10 gallons I had to pour out back during the hottest days of the hottest summer ever.
The yeast was alright, the temperature in my kitchen was so hot there at the end of the summer ...
After boiling and cooling some water, all night,
I tested the temperature the next morning and the water was room temperature, 80 degrees!

Thats to hot for the yeast to live,
as below 78 is what the package calls for a 'pitching' temperature.

Sure am glad that summer is over.
Now, to brew!



J. Knife
 

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