Switchcraft's plug and outlet option

I seemed to gather some interest when I posted in another thread showing the housing for my elements that had switchcraft's outlets installed in them. I received a few PMs asking questions about them and in a thread asking what regrets people had after going with an electric system I saw more then one person wrote the power cords off the kettles get in the way of clean up.
Two major pluses: they are a lot less expensive then the ubiquitous twist lock plugs and outlets at about $6 and $4 respectively and they are very small allowing them to be mounted on just about any element enclosure.
So here we go. I'll go over making the cords that go from the control panel to the element housing; it's not really difficult and I'm sure that if you had the parts in front of you it would be smooth sailing. I'm more doing this so people can see the parts and consider if they might work in one's set up.

These are the exact Switchcraft ones I used :
502-HPCC4F (cord plug)
502-HPCP41F1 (Panel mount outlet)
Are rated to 50 A (for the Fast-on terminal type, which these are) and 1500 VAC rms and are intended to be used for power supply. I was going to get them from mouser.com but on the day I was ordering everything they were back ordered so I got them from an amazon.com vendor.
Here are the parts I'll use to make the power cords

The cord is 8 feet of 10/3 SOOW Neoprene-Jacketed Power Cable from Home Depot
6 fast-on type terminals a.k.a blade terminal.
Shrink wrap
This is the cord plug disassembled (wow, very bad image... Sorry).

They supply two extra rubber sleeves to use with thinner cord, if you are using 10/3 or 10/4 you won't need them. I don't think these cord plugs could be used with cord thicker then 10/4 but I've never tried.

Before cutting the insulation I lay out the parts to see how much to remove.

Use a razor blade to cut and remove the insulation.
I don't own a proper pair of wire crimps for this job so I crimp with a big pair of channel locks and then solder the wire to the fast-on terminals and then solder the terminals to the cord plugs blades. Regardless of how you attach the terminals to the wire I think it's a good idea to soldering the terminals to the blades of the cord plugs, my thought is that over dozens of times of coiling and uncoiling the cords it possible they might work them self off or more likely when you're assembling them. The compression ring on the back should prevent this from happening but I really don't want to have to take them apart to check them ever. There are no images of me soldering because I'm doing this all with my phone and I can't soldier with one hand...
This is the back/inside of the plug

it looks exactly like the back side of the outlets and each terminal is marked with:
+1
-1
+2
-2
My advice; make yourself a diagram of what each will be because the markings are very small (could not get them to show up in the photo) and as after attaching your first terminal you will have a hard time seeing the markings.

It doesn’t matter which one you choose to be the ground, hots, or neutral just make sure you are consistent all the way through.
Once the terminal are attach the to the wires, slide on the compression ring, then the plug’s body, then the plug seal, then the shrink wrap on each one.

I had to use a little lube to get the parts to slide down the rubber cord on one of mine but the other had no problem, one cord was not round…
Hit the shrink wrap with a little heat. Since there are for my elements a neutral is not needed, that is the bare terminal you see.
Then slide the body up (this is why I solder, if you slipped then all the terminal might come off) holding the plug head still screw the body on (not the other way around), holding the head and body screw the compression ring on.

Repeat on the other end making sure that you match up your 1’s, 2’s, pluses and minuses.

With this I think you can figure out how to install the outlets, make sure that you keep you diagram and as with any plug> outlet set up check everything with a multi meter for continuity before powering up.

The panel mounts outlets need a .093" dia. hole, I think I used a 7/8th hole saw and it was a nice very tight fit but check this first

Here are my element enclosures, I went with single all weather j-box but I’m sure these could be mounted on a PVC pots. I’ve never put my hands on any of the tri-clamp type enclosures if you have them and give it a try I’m sure people would like to hear about it.

Here is my control panel made from a pelican case that I had. As you can see they look great next to the XLR outlets. I power my control panel with a 16 foot run of 10/4 SOOW Neoprene-Jacketed Power Cable from a spa panel that is hangs on the wall of my brewery. I put a panel mount outlet that supplies the power to my control panel on the very top of the right hand side of the case, I’m very confident that I will not confuse these because of their placement and my power supply plug has red tape on it. I set up everything before I brew, I do have an idea if someone ever wanted to make it impossible to plug the main power in to the power outlets but for me I don’t think it’s needed.

Hit me up with your questions or thought.
-Noah

Thanks Noah. I'll bite: What's your idea for making it impossible to confuse a power in and a power out?

Matching holes drilled in plug and outlet.
A peg or nail inserted and glued in the hole on the plug which prevents it from being inserted elsewhere except the outlet with the hole in it that accepts the peg.
Follow?

I use these for my main power feed to my control panel. I unfortunately had already bought the twist locks for the elements. These are much cheaper than the twist locks and work fine. I probably run close to 27 amps and no problems. I have actually had more problems with the twist locks wanting to untwist and come out because of the position they are in. I did not solder mine I just used a ratcheting crimper on the teminals.

Just to be clear, runs4beer, you have actually used these for more than one brew session with no failures?

I only ask because I have a few sets of them that I was going to use for a non-brewing project, but I also need to re-wire my electric control box, and I'd love to use them over ordering the twist-lock NEMA plugs.

Yes, 4 brew session, come Friday 5. J; how many for you 8-10?

Yeah I have close to 15 sessions on mine and mine aren't even soldered.

This is an excellent idea. I'm going t use these for sure.

runs4beer said:

Matching holes drilled in plug and outlet.
A peg or nail inserted and glued in the hole on the plug which prevents it from being inserted elsewhere except the outlet with the hole in it that accepts the peg.
Follow?

Click to expand...

Crude, but effective, lol. It is a shame that they don't make these with opposite genders. The Neutrik powerCon ones have that option, but only for the 20a ones, and they are only 3-pole. Their speakON ones have the option also, but they explicitly state not to use them for power supply.

jeffmeh said:

C Their speakON ones have the option also, but they explicitly state not to use them for power supply.

Click to expand...

I was wondering if these Switchcraft versions of speakON are actually UL listed/approved for AC mains use?

Sent the question last night to Switchcraft customer service...will see if I get a response and what they say.

Some different colored electrical tape on the ends of the cables or different colored braided sleeving over the cables would differentiate the cable. Then mark the corresponding outlets on the box with the same colors so you know which cable goes where

We beat this around quite a bit in the https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/show-us-your-element-housings-pots-how-did-you-do-212079/ thread. Runs4beer did get this answer directly from Switchcraft: "The connectors are rated for 50 A (for the Fast-on terminal type) and 1500 VAC rms. There should be no problem with the customer's application."

Here's what I posted in the other thread:

Switchcraft certainly stands behind using the HPC (High Power Connector) series for this type of use. In addition to the email cited above, from the product sheet:

Markets
• Loudspeakers
• Power audio amplifiers
• Medical
• Process Controls

From the specs:

High Power Connector, 30 A Current Rating, Silver-Plated over Copper Alloy Contact Material
30 A Rating Per UL 1977 on PC Mount Versions
50 A Rating Per UL 1977 on Faston® Versions
1500 VAC (RMS)

I am still a bit leery of power inlets and outlets with the same configuration, but I might consider using the panel mounts as an inlet to the control panel and an inlet to the element. With a NEMA 14-30 plug on the other end of the control panel power cord, and a NEMA 6-30 plug on the other end of the element power cord, even I could not screw that up.

Edit: I could also use it as an inlet to a spa panel with another 14-30 plug on the other end.

colored heat shrink I'm sure it can be found other places but this is just one source i found on line quick Google search
http://www.buyheatshrink.com/heatshrinktubing/3to1adhesive.htm

maybe a clear option you could make labels and protect them under it.

Yeah, I saw all that on their website but it still doesn't seem to say they're actually UL approved/listed for AC mains application. I see UL 1977 but I don't have a UL book to know what that specifically entails.

It mainly stems that since Neutrik doesn't recommend/approve AC mains for their speakON, what makes the physically interchangeable Switchcraft version different in this regard?

runs4beer said:

Yes, 4 brew session, come Friday 5. J; how many for you 8-10?

Click to expand...

Excellent. Looks like with that and the manufacturer's approval I've found my preferred connectors.

whoaru99 said:

Yeah, I saw all that on their website but it still doesn't seem to say they're actually UL approved/listed for AC mains application. I see UL 1977 but I don't have a UL book to know what that specifically entails.

Click to expand...

UL 1977:

1.1 These requirements cover single and multipole connectors, intended for factory assembly to copper or copper alloy conductors or printed wiring boards, for use in data, signal, control and power applications within and between electrical equipment.

Yeah, saw that too but that's just overview. Doesen't say anything about the test methods or approval criteria.

whoaru99 said:

Yeah, I saw all that on their website but it still doesn't seem to say they're actually UL approved/listed for AC mains application. I see UL 1977 but I don't have a UL book to know what that specifically entails.

Click to expand...

Yeah I was going to use these but it's going to compromise the rest of my systems UL rating. lol

Yeah, lol.

Compare something like a NEMA 14-50 connector and the contact sizes vs. those Switchcrafts. Ehhhh...

whoaru99, certainly don't use anything that you're not comfortable using. They are rated for this application and that rating has been approved by The UL for this application. How does The Underwriters Laboratory go about testing that something will meet the ratings the manufacturer states? I'm really not sure but it's methods are accepted by OSHA for what that's worth...
Are there product out there with a higher rating, more contact area? I'm sure of it, there's a lot of products out there with different prices tags and it is up to you to choose what you want to use in your build by what you're comfortable with and fits the budget.

FWIW/FTR, here's the response I received from Switchcraft:

I hope the statement below from engineering will answer your question.

"The HPC series connectors can be used at 125-240 VAC. The HPC series connectors are not UL recognized components. The connectors are not intended to be used to interrupt or disconnect power, i.e. power must be turned off before connecting or disconnecting the connectors."

Click to expand...

Interesting, thanks for that.
So, in/by designed they are rated in accordance to UL 1977 but were never submitted for recognition/approval.
Again, thank you for clarifying with them, after seeing it on their specs sheet I didn't think to double check that when I emailed them.

Hopefully no one would be connecting and/or disconnecting these things with the power on anyway

For what it's worth here's some pictures of my finished switchcraft plug-based solution. (Be careful when ordering; the Mouser website incorrectly listed some female connectors as male and vice-versa... really check the EXACT switchcraft connector that you're ordering.)

I used the StillDragon TC element cover option and a short length of 10/4 wire (DON'T use 10/4 wire; use 10/3 -trust me on this) connected to a Female Switchcraft Fast-on cord connector (50amp rated version). Then I made a 9-10 ft 10/4 cable with a male Switchcraft Fast-On cord connector and this will connect from my control panel (which has a female control panel Switchcraft Fast-on connector) to my electric element.

I really, REALLY love this setup. I don't have any long cables hanging off of my HLT or kettle, I can quickly and easily remove the elements to scrub them if necessary, I can quickly and easily get access to the electrical connections if necessary, the whole thing is grounded end-to-end (fully tested), and it looks and functions great. I also don't have to worry about the cable twisting and unplugging itself (rare but possible with twist lock); it's also quite water resistant (esp with some strategically placed beads of clear silicone). The plugs are also super cheap compared to the alternatives.

The negatives:
1. Wiring the Switch Craft fast-on cord connectors is TOUGH -it is very hard to make the blade connections inside the connector because if they're long enough that you can actually install them with your hands/ a screwdriver you're going to have the cable sheath sticking out and you're DEFINITELY going to have to use heat shrink wrap; the alternative is to cut the wires very short (very small margin of error with these things), align them perfectly and then just push down really really hard and hope that they all went on correctly. (and of course test with a multi meter to confirm.) It took me hours and hours and a bunch of ruined blade connectors to figure out the right internal wire length.
2. Safety Concern The StillDragon TC element kits come with pure copper "blade" wire connectors without any external insulation on them-this includes for the two hot wires. They do come with shrink wrap but on my elements just fitting the TC over the finished wires rubbed through the heat shrink stuff enough that both hot wires were making an electrical connection with the TC itself- when I was testing the grounds with my multimeter I noticed that both of the hot wires AND the ground were "grounded" to the TC connector and then took it apart and confirmed my suspicions. (This was after bending the blade connectors at an almost 90 degree angle.) Everyone should be buying insulated blades for the two hot legs and I'd say some heat shrink tubing over that to connect the hot wires. I really have to completely recommend against using the included copper connectors.


Picture of one finished element with Switch Craft Fast-On "Pig Tail" solution: (If anyone else has done this yet, I certainly haven't seen it.)

Here's a close-up of the SwitchCraft connector:


Here's the two elements and power cable all in a single shot:


I'm considering using another set of SwitchCraft connectors to go from my spa panel box to my control panel box (I'll just switch the male and female ends around there so that my power-in and power-out plugs are different) but they're honestly so much work to wire and I just want to make beer so I might just go with a twist-lock there...



I seriously don't think there's a solution out there that I'd be happier with over all. The connectors are frustrating to wire and the StillDragon elements DO require getting a TC ferrule welded into your tank (which has been a multi-week ordeal for me so far with my flakey welder) but it looks drop-dead gorgeous, is very reasonably priced, super functional, should last basically forever, and with the aforementioned replacement of the copper blade connectors (and of course GFI protection), is incredibly safe.



Adam

First off very sexy, I now feel shame with my simple J-boxes housings.

biertourist said:

The negatives:
1. Wiring the Switch Craft fast-on cord connectors is TOUGH -it is very hard to make the blade connections inside the connector because if they're long enough that you can actually install them with your hands/ a screwdriver you're going to have the cable sheath sticking out and you're DEFINITELY going to have to use heat shrink wrap; the alternative is to cut the wires very short (very small margin of error with these things), align them perfectly and then just push down really really hard and hope that they all went on correctly. (and of course test with a multi meter to confirm.) It took me hours and hours and a bunch of ruined blade connectors to figure out the right internal wire length.

Click to expand...

But I'm trying to follow negative #1
Do they not come apart like the male cord plugs I used (this image has the fast-on on the plus's blades)?




If not and there's only a the compression ring on the back that would very very hard because even so it's tricky because you have to start all the connections and slowly slide all in at the same time but only 5 minutes not houses.

runs4beer said:

First off very sexy, I now feel shame with my simple J-boxes housings.



But I'm trying to follow negative #1
Do they not come apart like the male cord plugs I used (this image has the fast-on on the plus's blades)?

If not and there's only a the compression ring on the back that would very very hard because even so it's tricky because you have to start all the connections and slowly slide all in at the same time but only 5 minutes not houses.

Click to expand...

Wow... Your bottom picture clearly shows the cable sheath INSIDE of the Switchcraft connector. -I used 10/4 wire instead of the 10/3 wire that I should have and the diameter of the cable sheath is so large it actually won't fit inside of the connector even after removing all the internal rubber bushings. -It sounds like it was such a pain simply because I used the larger diameter 10/4 wire.

(If you wanted to use the SwitchCraft connectors between a spa panel disconnect and a control panel you'd need the 4 conductor wire and you'll run into this problem again but if you're just using the SwitchCraft connectors for your control panel "power out" going to the elements you can use 10/3 and it looks super easy to wire.)


Adam

Very nice. So that's another method to differentiate inputs from outputs on these things, when the panel mounts are only available as female. Use pigtails with whichever end (male or female) you want.

E.g., power in at the control panel uses a pigtail male, power out at the control panel uses a panel mount female, male to female cable goes to element, element power in uses a pigtail male.

I wonder if there is any way to "jury rig" the male connector to make it more of a panel mount. E.g., could you use the rightmost piece in runs4beer's last picture, with the threads going through the panel and secured by adjacent piece inside the panel?

I do have 10/4 from my spa panel to my control panel and the switchcraft plugs on on the end of the 10/4, it was tight but I put a little olive oil (was doing it in the kitchen so it was right there) on the sheath and slid it right in.
edit:
Please don't quote this out of context (he he).

jeffmeh said:

Very nice. So that's another method to differentiate inputs from outputs on these things, when the panel mounts are only available as female. Use pigtails with whichever end (male or female) you want.

E.g., power in at the control panel uses a pigtail male, power out at the control panel uses a panel mount female, male to female cable goes to element, element power in uses a pigtail male.

I wonder if there is any way to "jury rig" the male connector to make it more of a panel mount. E.g., could you use the rightmost piece in runs4beer's last picture, with the threads going through the panel and secured by adjacent piece inside the panel?

Click to expand...

I'm strongly considering just putting a wrap of colored electrical tape over each cable end and where it needs to be plugged in. -Yes it's not "fool proof" but "green goes to green" and "red goes to red" isn't too complicated. And I'm certainly not going to let anyone else use my brewery without me.


Adam

runs4beer said:

I do have 10/4 from my spa panel to my control panel and the switchcraft plugs on on the end of the 10/4, it was tight but I put a little olive oil (was doing it in the kitchen so it was right there) on the sheath and slid it right in.
edit:
Please don't quote this out of context (he he).

Click to expand...

Wow, REALLY?!? Ok, you convinced me I'm going to use another set of switchcraft plugs to go between the control panel and the spa panel -if it's as easy as just using a bit of olive oil it's definitely worth staying with the switchcraft connectors.


Adam

biertourist said:

Wow, REALLY?!? Ok, you convinced me I'm going to use another set of switchcraft plugs to go between the control panel and the spa panel -if it's as easy as just using a bit of olive oil it's definitely worth staying with the switchcraft connectors.

Adam

Click to expand...

Well, I didn't have a problem with MY 10/4 that I couldn't solve w/ a little oil but that being said I did have a little trouble with one of the lengths 10/3 I bought. I'm going to guess that there might be some difference in diameter in all the different cord stocks, they all might not be the same in diameter. I got two length of 10/3 at the same HD about a month apart, installing the switchcraft plugs went fine on the first but the second required a little oil (this was the one I did to start this thread).

My 10/4 looks just like your 10/3 and was also from Home Depot. I'm not so sure that the 10/4 will fit. -This makes getting the whole connector together very, very difficult. (But again going to the elements there's no reason to use anything other than 10/3.)

Adam

Yep, I think that's the point I'm trying to make; all the 10/4 and all the 10/3 SOOW Neoprene-Jacketed Power Cable may look and function the same but they may have a slightly different outside diameters maybe even in the same roll. So, just to be safe you may want to bring the cord end plug to HD or where ever you're buying your cable stock from and ask to test the plug body and compression ring first. I didn't do this but with a little lubricant I was able to get the compression ring and body to slide on the 10/4 with out a problem.

If you're actually using Sxxx then SJxxx might better serve your need in this case. It's smaller diameter, generally.

Dumb question... Why does it matter which end of the power cable goes to your control panel and which goes to your element?

It is just a wire making a connection between the two, no?

What am I missing?

Chris

goybar said:

Dumb question... Why does it matter which end of the power cable goes to your control panel and which goes to your element?

It is just a wire making a connection between the two, no?

What am I missing?

Chris

Click to expand...

To answers your question it doesn't matter which end of the cable is plugged in the element or CP.
But if one was, for some reason was to plug the main power supply into an output outlet (power supply TO the element) then bad things might happen. For me I really don't see how I would make this mistake, I set up my equipment before I power up. The power in is on the top left side of the CP and the power out for the elements and pumps and the RTD probes are all on the bottom of the CP. If I were to have to unplug and re-plug during a brew session then maybe I'd want to have something to physical prevent this.

Thank you, I couldn't understand why it would make a difference.

I haven't gone electric yet, but working it all out.

As you said, I would power anything up until setup was complete.

I do like your method of having the power into the panel located differently than the power out, just in case..

-chris

subscribed

goybar said:

Dumb question... Why does it matter which end of the power cable goes to your control panel and which goes to your element?

It is just a wire making a connection between the two, no?

What am I missing?

Chris

Click to expand...

It doesn't matter.



If you have a 4 wire cable for going from the spa panel to the control panel an separate 3 wire cables for going to your elements, you need to know which is which but it doesn't matter what end goes where. -Some folks have implemented solutions to prevent them from accidentally connecting the power cable coming from the spa panel (the "power in") into a power-out connector on the control panel -I'm guessing that this is what you're referring to.

(I simply located my powerin on the left side of my box and the power outs on the bottom -I also color coded everything with colored electrical tape.)

adam

I ordered the Moser HPCP41F1 for the panel and the tabs are very small in relation to the plug. On investigation I determined that the the tabs on the plug are .250 and on the panel I ordered is .187. I then found there is a panel with the same tabs as the plug (.250). It has the same number but with the 1 left off the end #HPCP41F. Did you use the smaller tabs in your panel and electric box ? They are rated the same just smaller. However if you wish to connect to a crimp I'm not sure I can easily fine a .187 connector rated for 12AWG. Did anyone else deal with this ? Should I reorder the .250 or does it really matter. Also the panel does not have the plastic X separating the 4 tabs as the plug.
Any advice would be appreciated as I am still gathering parts and info.
Also would love to see pics of your latest new connection.
Thanks for a great addition to the E-Build.