DIY Sanke Valve Removal Tool suggestions

Looking for suggestions on making a tool with similar functionality as this:

https://morebeer.com/view_product/7543

I've watched the videos and have successfully removed several spears but I have one that is very stubborn. The end of the o-ring is right between the 2 notches and there is no room to wedge a screwdriver to get it started. I'm told this keg has been sitting in the open in someones backyard for a couple years and looking at it's condition, I can believe it. I think if I can push down the whole valve assembly I would have better luck.

I'm planning to use them as a fermenter eventually so making a tool similar to the above for assembly and disassembly would save a lot of work. Most of my ideas for a tool are close to Rube Goldberg and standing in Home Depot hasn't helped with generating ideas.

Any thoughts?

Having fooled w/ sankes for a few years now, perhaps I can help. First I would try sharpening the small screwdriver to almost a knife edge so it can get a bite on the spiral ring.

If that doesn't work, what I have done to simulate the compression tool, is to use a large socket (wrench)...not sure maybe 1" - 1 1/4" that fits inside the top of the spear. Now take a piece of scrap wood...say 1X2 and tie wire that to the handle of the keg so it can be a lever to push down on the socket that will push the spear down to free the ring.

All you need is something that goes inside the spear...i use a socket, but you could use a piece of wood etc, and a way to force it down...i use a long piece of wood attached to the rim of the keg as a lever.

hard to put into words but actually very simple.

good luck...the first few times can be an adventure...but once you gaun a technique...easy peasy.

Oh I also have a sheet metal hook type tool that almost resembles the sanke knife...but only sometimes use it.

first try a sharpened screwdiver and a couple gentle taps w/ a hammer to see if you can get behind the spiral ring to pry it free...if not than try compressing the spear.

The wood lever is a great suggestion, I was trying something like that but I think I need a deeper socket to make it work, right now the wood is in the way if I try to lever it down.

Also thinking about using some j-hooks I can drill through both ends of wood and attach through the handles, that way I can use wing nuts on the j-hooks to torque down the socket. It only looks like it can drop about 1/8" anyhow.

First things first....

You DO NOT NEED that tool. Lay the keg on it's side, press a large screw driver into the ball/gasket joint. this lets the gas and stale beer escape without giving you a shower. once it is de-pressurized, use an ice pick or similar tool to slide the retaining ring out of it's gap. once out the valve assembly will either pull straight out or turn a 1/4 turn then up and turn again then out.

YOU DO NOT NEED IT!!!!!!!!!

I understand I don't need that tool normally. As stated in my original post, I have disassembled kegs before but have a stubborn one that requires compressing the entire valve assembly so I can extract the o-rings, that is what that tool does.

It is just glued on there by old beer. Stand it upright, pour some VERY hot water on the top of the valve. let it soak for a bit. Then try it. Don't need a tool. I have one like that, amazing the holding power of old stale beer. Like Krazey Glue.

small carbide drill bit .Drill threw the ring at the end. You now have a place to use a pick or awl to start the ring out . I just use a small putty knife once the ring is started and just slide my way around the valve the retainer spring come right out.Almost like shucking a clam

Not sure if something like this from Harbor Freight would work, but it has potential.

3 way edging clamp

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Damn it, and I was just down at Harbor Freight this morning, that plus a 1 1/4" socket will be perfect.

I did eventually get the stuck one out, just took 3 broken flat heads to get the o-ring out.

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll post if I make it work.

variverrat said:

Damn it, and I was just down at Harbor Freight this morning, that plus a 1 1/4" socket will be perfect.

I did eventually get the stuck one out, just took 3 broken flat heads to get the o-ring out.

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll post if I make it work.

Click to expand...

I'd really like to see that post! I use a lot of 19L Sanke kegs and I think being able to apply some pressure to the top of the spear would be even more helpful while re-inserting the ring that it would be while taking it out!

SeamusMac said:

...I think being able to apply some pressure to the top of the spear would be even more helpful while re-inserting the ring....

Click to expand...

To install the spiral ring...follow clutchdude's write-up below...you don't need a special tool...once you have done it a couple times...easy!

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/installing-retaining-ring-sanke-keg-64128/

Next time I stop in at Harbor Freight I'll get one of the 3 way edging clamps and try it on my sankey kegs and post the results here.

What I found so far is the edging clamp from Harbor Freight does work with some modifications. The swivel legs sheared off as soon as I applied pressure to the clamp that pushes down on the valve, so I cut off all the swivel feet and replaced them with rubber stoppers, that seems to work ok in combination with a 1 1/8" socket to depress the valve but you have to make sure you have it lined up perfectly. Also looking at something like this, which should be more stable and easier to line up:
Amazon.com: Gear Puller 3" 3 Jaw: Automotive

SeamusMac said:

I think being able to apply some pressure to the top of the spear would be even more helpful while re-inserting the ring that it would be while taking it out!

Click to expand...

Same here...I'm using snap rings instead spiral rings and you need some compression force to get the ring seated correctly.

It appears this guy has made a useful tool, but I don't think he's selling them, at least not for $80 I am going to see if I can find a local machine shop in my area, and see if they could let me use the equipment for a couple of hours for a few bucks or brews.

springer said:

small carbide drill bit .Drill threw the ring at the end. You now have a place to use a pick or awl to start the ring out . I just use a small putty knife once the ring is started and just slide my way around the valve the retainer spring come right out.Almost like shucking a clam

Click to expand...

Dredging up an old thread...

How did you drill through the spiral ring? I tried to put a dent in the ring to hold the drill from sliding around, but the ring is too hard to dent. How did you keep the drill from moving around?

"Carbide" drill bit........Be careful, they are brittle!

Stealthcruiser said:

"Carbide" drill bit........Be careful, they are brittle!

Click to expand...

I have a carbide bit, but I can't keep it in place on the ring long enough to drill it out, and I can't figure out how to make a "starter" dent in the ring.

Do you have a center punch, to make a "divot" in the ring, where your bit won't walk?



And a drop or two of oil wouldn't hurt, after the divot..........Real oil.

wilserbrewer said:

Having fooled w/ sankes for a few years now, perhaps I can help. First I would try sharpening the small screwdriver to almost a knife edge so it can get a bite on the spiral ring.

Click to expand...

Exactly. When I did my first keg, I put an old screwdriver against my grinding wheel and made my "keg tool". It's still sitting in my tool chest with those words written on it.

[oof, zombie!]

Stealthcruiser said:

Do you have a center punch, to make a "divot" in the ring, where your bit won't walk?

Click to expand...

I did try two different "screw starter" tools to make a divot, but neither was hard enough to dent the ring. Would something like this http://www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-Hardened-Steel-Center-Punch-89/202025674 be hard enough?

Abandon tool "Finesse" and apply tool "Brute Force"...

The "link" wouldn't load for me, but if it is a spring loaded center punch, it will probably do it.

And I'm guessing here..........No access to a drill press, and you are "free stylin" with a hand drill?

No disrespect intended, but if you are not used to drilling and "machining" metals, you'll have a hard time drilling it.

BUT, if you get a divot in it, and you have a true, sharp carbide bit, it should sail through it.

Remember, "slow speed, heavy feed", and don't forget, those bits are brittle!



Edit: Yes, that is a spring loaded punch.

Stealthcruiser said:

And I'm guessing here..........No access to a drill press, and you are "free stylin" with a hand drill?

No disrespect intended, but if you are not used to drilling and "machining" metals, you'll have a hard time drilling it.

Click to expand...

No disrespect intended, but I feel if the guy had a drill press and was used to drilling and "machining" metals, the spiral ring would be out by now

I would try a sharp screw driver again, soak the neck of the keg in hot soapy water, maybe even a little wd40. When prying the ring free, one MUST only pry on the upper half of the ring, and not both halves, just the thin top portion. If one prys both the top and bottom of the spiral ring, certain failure. Perhaps some tapping or sharp blows on the ring with a hammer and punch would help to loosen it.

Stealth, I assume you drilled the spiral ring out of the keg? It may be a little tougher to drill it installed? While I imagine drilling the spiral ring and using a hook tool to remove it is effective, it may likely be way beyond the average skill set. I can't imagine being able to hook and pull it any harder than one would be able to pry it....just an idea....just trying to help....good luck!

Good luck...just tryin to help.

paperairplane said:

Abandon tool "Finesse" and apply tool "Brute Force"...

Click to expand...

Haha, actually not a bad suggestion and . Likely the ring would come out bent, but ihopefully would come out.

Stealthcruiser said:

The "link" wouldn't load for me, but if it is a spring loaded center punch, it will probably do it.

And I'm guessing here..........No access to a drill press, and you are "free stylin" with a hand drill?

No disrespect intended, but if you are not used to drilling and "machining" metals, you'll have a hard time drilling it.

BUT, if you get a divot in it, and you have a true, sharp carbide bit, it should sail through it.

Remember, "slow speed, heavy feed", and don't forget, those bits are brittle!


Edit: Yes, that is a spring loaded punch.

Click to expand...

No worries. I am pretty handy with tools, but I don't have easy access to a drill press, just a "free style" drill. I looked again at my drill bit, and it is a cobalt split point 1/16" bit. Would this work as well as a carbide bit? It says it can be used on stainless steel.

I have no experience drilling stainless, so I appreciate your advice. If I can get this to work, I'd drill out all the rings I have (14). If it is too much of a pain, I might see how much my local metal shop would charge to do it.



@ wilserbrewer: I actually can remove the rings just fine, but I think it would be a little bit easier with a hole to hook into. I have a harder time installing them--it is awkward to pull the trailing end downward and inward at the same time. I think it would be easier to install them if they had holes--using the hole to pull the trailing end down into the slot. Thanks for the suggestions and support, though!

dunbruha said:

@ wilserbrewer: I actually can remove the rings just fine, but I think it would be a little bit easier with a hole to hook into. I have a harder time installing them--it is awkward to pull the trailing end downward and inward at the same time. I think it would be easier to install them if they had holes--using the hole to pull the trailing end down into the slot. Thanks for the suggestions and support, though!

Click to expand...

Purely my opinion, I have been using Sanke kegs for several years....you don't need a hole in the spiral ring to remove or install. Sharp screwdriver for removal, and pair of channel locks, or better yet a crescent wrench for installation is all you need. The procedure is to get the ring started by hand, then chase it around compressing it into the groove....check out this vid...

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZPfZ_AL380[/ame]

tip...when installing the ring, align it so there is about a 1/4" of the ring past the indent on the keg...this will ease removal. With a little practice, one can remove and install very quickly without much effort. I have found a 6" crescent wrench to be the perfect installation tool. Basicly you adjust the wrench and just rock it outward to force the ring in the groove around the circle....taking little bites at a time, it becomes very easy with practice....10 seconds easy....

Another tip on removal, don't pull on the ring like the vid shows with pliers, this can damage bend the spiral ring, just put your screwdriver shaft under the ring and chase in around the rim of the keg gently lifting it up and in and around. A little practice is key...

I think a cobalt split point is the wrong bit....but I wouldn't drill em if I had the best bits in the universe...jmo cheers!

ps...had you posted your true issue...this thread may have been shorter....

springer said:

I just use a small putty knife once the ring is started and just slide my way around the valve the retainer spring come right out.Almost like shucking a clam

Click to expand...

The clam analogy is a good one....

wilserbrewer said:

I have found a 6" crescent wrench to be the perfect installation tool. Basicly you adjust the wrench and just rock it outward to force the ring in the groove around the circle....taking little bites at a time, it becomes very easy with practice....10 seconds easy....

Click to expand...

My current install time is about a minute or two, which is why I was seeking to improve. Maybe I just need more practice...

I do mine just like the video, except I use a small appliance screwdriver, which works perfectly. As for reinstallation, I just use a pair on pliers. Takes no time at all.

I have found that lining up the spiral ring just right and then adding a scratch to the lip of the sankey allows you to be able to repeatably line up the spiral ring for ease of removal.

Otherwise, have you considered replacing the spiral rings with more C shaped snap rings? It may be slightly harder to get them inserted but with a pair of thin needlenose style pliers it should be far easier to remove.

DrunkleJon said:

I have found that lining up the spiral ring just right and then adding a scratch to the lip of the sankey allows you to be able to repeatably line up the spiral ring for ease of removal.

Otherwise, have you considered replacing the spiral rings with more C shaped snap rings? It may be slightly harder to get them inserted but with a pair of thin needlenose style pliers it should be far easier to remove.

Click to expand...

I have tried the snap rings, but the "ears" stick out into the center, and sometimes got in the way of the tap, so I didn't like them.

The screwdriver is working fine for removal, and it does help to install it in the right spot. Using the wrench for installing still needs more practice...

The OEM spiral rings work well as they are designed to compress the o-ring seal in the keg stem as they are worked into place.

HI there I am new to this forum and been fighting with a Sanke Keg I purchased off of Kijiji. Here are some pics..

The retaining ring does not align with the slot in the keg. So using a screwdriver in the slot is trying to pull on the lower loop of the ring. I tried a pulley puller and tightened it up with a socket sitting in the keg opening and with all my might then tried to move the retainer clip and it does not budge. Is the compression on the spear supposed to lower the spear enough for the clip to come out? It does not work for me.

Any suggestions?

Thx

NO PICS HERE?

The ring could be stuck and glued in with sticky dried up beer, perhaps some hot water soaking.

When you pry the ring free, you must be very careful to only be prying the top half of the spiral ring, if you are prying both halves you will fail. The top ring is pried free, then it is spiraled out the reverse of installation.

tdibratt said:

HI there I am new to this forum and been fighting with a Sanke Keg I purchased off of Kijiji. Here are some pics..

The retaining ring does not align with the slot in the keg. So using a screwdriver in the slot is trying to pull on the lower loop of the ring. I tried a pulley puller and tightened it up with a socket sitting in the keg opening and with all my might then tried to move the retainer clip and it does not budge. Is the compression on the spear supposed to lower the spear enough for the clip to come out? It does not work for me.

Any suggestions?

Thx

Click to expand...

I dont know if they let you post pics for your first few posts.

I have had troubles in the past with this when I don't install them properly. Here are the tricks that have worked for me.

-Make sure that the keg is fully depressurized. The pressure will push the spear up and pinch the o-ring to make it harder to remove. I have found that the handle of a pair of pliers (rubber) or wrapped in some cloth to protect the ball and wedge it in there with the ball pressed, you will ensure that you have no pressure in there and could push down the spear to loosen things.
- Use the screwdriver (a smaller thin one), make sure it is only one layer of the ring deep (as close to the end as possible) and pry in and you should still be able to get the ring to come out.
-If it is cemented in place with beer, try hot water to loosen things up.

Keep working at it, it will work eventually. And once you get it out my favorite trick is to scratch/mark the lip where the lower end of the spiral ring should be so that everything lines up properly when I reinstall it.