ebay aquarium temp controller build
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The relay inside the box is labeled 15A 120V
fluidmechanics
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Mark
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Sorry to bump the thread - but could you tell me what kind of fuse I should be installing? I'm using 14 gauge wire running 120 V current.
I know next to nothing about electricity and wiring. I was able to wire the SCT-1000 together using information on this thread and others, and it's been controlling my freezer wonderfully. I don't think the freezer will overheat the wire when it powers on but I'd like to have a fuse on the line just in case...
I've looked high and low on the internet for information about how to install an inline fuse, but most sites are about how to wire an amp or wire from the batteries on a car or boat etc., using smaller gauge wire.
Update: did some more searching and found the answer here.
raouliii
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yes
Huaco
Well-Known Member
Built one of these with the STC-1000 last night for a buddy. Came in just a little under 3 hours build time. That was with my little girl and my wife kindly interrupting me several times! lol...
wickman6
Well-Known Member
Ok, I've read thru here a bit, but don't have like 2 weeks to fish thru the entire thread. 
I want to get one of these controllers, but confused a bit by the eBay description. Are there 2 separate controllers for different input voltages? Do I need to find one that is 110vac? Sorry for the basic question....
I want to get one of these controllers, but confused a bit by the eBay description. Are there 2 separate controllers for different input voltages? Do I need to find one that is 110vac? Sorry for the basic question....
Huaco
Well-Known Member
wickman6
Well-Known Member
Thanks! That answers my question perfectly!
jeepinjeepin
Well-Known Member
wickman6 said:Ok, I've read thru here a bit, but don't have like 2 weeks to fish thru the entire thread.
Huaco said:
Yup, get one that specifically states 120VAC. Like Huaco said, there are continental resellers that ship quicker. If you don't mind waiting on a slow boat from china you can save about $3.
Quick question.
I have not seen anyone wire an STC with just the male and female ends of a cord (which is what I'm doing)
I have a dead mini fridge so cooling is not going to be hooked up at the moment.
After cutting the female end off my extension cord, I plan on wiring that directly into the heat switch and use it for my brewbelt plug in (No outlet will be on my box)
Now, wiring for that is pretty straight forward then right?
Hot/netural (black/red) into the power supply switch via male end, as well as the heat switch via female end, then just wire the ground to each other inside the box?
EDIT: wait the hot wire (male end) would go to the power switch and the heat switch. Neutral would go to female end and spliced to the power supply. Hot wire (female end) goes to heat switch. Ground would just go to eachother. I keep forgetting the STC does not power anything once power is received.
I have not seen anyone wire an STC with just the male and female ends of a cord (which is what I'm doing)
I have a dead mini fridge so cooling is not going to be hooked up at the moment.
After cutting the female end off my extension cord, I plan on wiring that directly into the heat switch and use it for my brewbelt plug in (No outlet will be on my box)
Now, wiring for that is pretty straight forward then right?
Hot/netural (black/red) into the power supply switch via male end, as well as the heat switch via female end, then just wire the ground to each other inside the box?
EDIT: wait the hot wire (male end) would go to the power switch and the heat switch. Neutral would go to female end and spliced to the power supply. Hot wire (female end) goes to heat switch. Ground would just go to eachother. I keep forgetting the STC does not power anything once power is received.
The HOT and COLD relays of the STC are simply switches on the hot lead to provide AC power to the desired device. That AC power comes from the supply connected to I believe it's terminal 1, so in that sense, the STC does provide the AC power for your brewbelt.
Do you want to use the male end to supply the STC and the female end as a plugin for your brewbelt?
Got it all wired up and working. Used my second way of thinking to wire it up, after my original post I thought about it...and it just didnt make sense.
Used the male end to power the STC, female end as the outlet to the brewbelt.
....now I just need my damn brewbelt. :cross:
Used the male end to power the STC, female end as the outlet to the brewbelt.
....now I just need my damn brewbelt. :cross:
Look at www.beanfarm.com You can buy the FermWrap by the foot and put your own cord on it. I've had better success with FermWrap than my brewbelt...more surface area I guess.
Some really cheap stuff on that site, thanks helibrewer.
So for the flexwat heater all I would need is the flexwatt itself, clips with insulators and a cord right?
Huaco
Well-Known Member
Also, check out reptilebasics.com That is where I got my heat tape. It was just a little cheaper there than the bean farm place.
Ok soooo I really liked that reptile basics site, they will wire up your heat tape and everything, very cheap..... 5ft of 4" heat tape wired up for aorund $14, not bad.
WTF shipping here to alaska is 28 bucks... looks like this is not an option.
What ever happened to flat rate boxes.
Maybe ask them if they can ship USPS instead, as long as your order is small (volume wise).
Also, just because you are in AK doesn't mean you can close up a fermenter inside an insulated box, and expect not to need cooling. People in cold regions sometimes have it tougher than people in the deep south where the only concern, ever, is cooling (at least for single vessel/chamber systems). When ambient temps are in the 20-??F (insert max ferm temp here) range, things get funny. When fermenting in a fridge/freezer, you have a heat source trapped inside an insulated box, at least until it stops producing heat. Therein lies the rub.
In dealing with this problem myself, and not wanting to code and/or rig up or rely on an arduino, brewtroller, bcs, some hombebaked rig, etc.; I plan on wiring up a set of SS relays (one for every controller/fermenter) which will feed the control input of another relay (to switch the coolingfridge). My goal is to allow having multiple fermenters in one chest freezer without having to set the temp to some arbitrarily low number to guarantee a max temp for the most active ferm. The cooling will only come on when any one of the fermenters needs it. This approach is very similar to the method of using a a dual input relay so only one fan is needed for either heat or cool using (although IMO there is no reason not to run a fan full time in either a kegerator or (especially) in a fermenter).
The price of discrete low current SSRs is cheap enough to not bother searching for some esoteric x number input IC relay available at radio shack. Just wire up a bunch of low amp discrete relays to the control input of one capable of handling the fridge/freezer current. That is the magic that would be happening inside a similar IC anyway.
Yea I emailed reptile basics shortly after my post and asked about shipping.
Got it in a flat rate usps box the next day and now my flexwatt tape is on it way.
Awesome customer service with those guys.
Anyways, I plan on having a fan running in my dead mini fridge and maybe put some frozen bottles in there as well just to keep the ambient temp on the downtrend. The flexwatt will take it over once it dips.
Got it in a flat rate usps box the next day and now my flexwatt tape is on it way.
Awesome customer service with those guys.
Anyways, I plan on having a fan running in my dead mini fridge and maybe put some frozen bottles in there as well just to keep the ambient temp on the downtrend. The flexwatt will take it over once it dips.
BetterSense
Well-Known Member
Your post is hard to understand without a diagram, but it sounds like you are basically going to wire the freezer to be on whenever none of the fermenter heaters is heating. Without additional logic that is going to be inefficient because it will result in the freezer kicking on when there is really no need. You are going to pay to heat and then pay to cool.
weeple2000
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I have read some (but not all) of this thread. Thought it'd be better to just ask in case others are wondering as well. I am looking for a temperature controller for a keezer, do I need something like the stc-1000 or is there something simpler? What is the best option cost-wise? I am just looking to control when the cooling mechanism kicks in.
danielz1
Member
I used a Johnson controller to run my lagering fridge. When I decided I needed a controller to keep fermenters warm, I came across the STC1000 on Ebay for half the cost of the Johnson. Initially, I just wired it into an extension cord. Materials were a 6'-8' cord and a couple wire nuts.
Since then, I've seen this thread and built it into a box with a split receptacle for heating and cooling capabilities. Besides being cleaner looking, it also looks more impressive when friends are over.
If you're looking for simple, you can get controllers already built, you just have to pay for it.
If you read my post carefully, I proposed my method specifically to avoid cooling when no fermenter needs it. Think about the problem being solved along with my description, and it should make sense. The freezer will only come on when any one of the fermenting vessels needs it. These are dual stage controllers, so they can call for heating or cooling.
One additional thing I thought of is the need for a compressor delay timer for the final stage that powers the fridge/freezer. I will probably just use an additional STC-1000. The ASD is triggered automatically on power up, so it should work (although the delay will always be in effect, but no big deal) This way I don't have to read the specs for a hundred different ebay listings for timers to make sure they will work. I am not sure how long settings are retained when not powered, but think it is at least a week.
You don't even need the relay scheme for a dedicated setup. All of the cooling outputs (from a single house circuit only) can be hard wired to one outlet; however, you would lose any independent use of the controllers for all but heating only applications. You would still need the additional ASD timer.
There are many situations where a keezer needs to be heated, the most common being when it is kept in the garage in the winter.
The STC-1000 is now down to $20 shipped, last time I ordered anyway. So, I just spring for the extra $3 for dual stage so I can use it to control a fermenter, or even turn my keezer into one, as well. In their defense, the single stage units do have a programmable/audible over/under temperature alarm which can come in handy for things like mashing. That feature can be supplied by a cheap stand-alone device (even with separate power for an unattended setting like fermenting), whereas dual-stage functionality cannot be replicated (easily) by adding another controller.
Over 300 posts is a long read so I am just going to ask this question and hope for an answer... Has anyone extended the length of the sensor that came with this termometer. The supplied wire is too short to make it into my keezer from where I would like the controller mounted.
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
Yes. Depending on the length, type of wire, and how solid your connections are, you might need to adjust the calibration. Several people have used 1/8" headphone jacks to connect the sensor wire with the controller.
catmandu1999
Active Member
I used that pdf as my guide, built it up today, worked first time I plugged it in! Modified the plans by getting the 25' 14 GA extension cord (my beer chamber will likely be in the garage or unfinished portion of the basement, both of which have limited plugs), took the power cord first to an 'always on' outlet for circulation fans, work light (for illumination, not heating), etc., and put in a 15A fuse prior to the controller.
In the spirit of paying forward my good luck with finding a steal on Craigslist for my new-to-me kegging equipment, I offer up the following stuff for this project that was packaged as 'twofers' from Radio Shack:
1 red neon light
1 green neon light
1 fuse holder
2 15A ceramic fuses
First to PM me an address gets a goodie bag via USPS 1st class mail!
Edit: Congrats to lhommedieu, first to reply! No more callers, please!
cwi said:
I guess being a Central Cali boy I don't understand the concepts of the garage getting too cold for beer.
I'm intrigued by your comment about using it for mash control. I was unaware that it had the audible alarms. Are you saying you can control a mash heater of some sort with it? I thought the general consensus was that a PID was needed because it controls with tighter parameters?
I ask because I'm getting ready to put an heating element under a false bottom in my mash tun and recirculate. This would be way cheaper and easier to rig up than a PID for me.
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I'm a little leery of the wires connected to the sensor as they seem almost too small for the controller. How would you connect the sensor to 1/8" headphone jacks?
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
Buy panel mount headphone jack and plug, solder the probe wires to the plug, solder some short wires to the jack connecting the other ends to the controller, drill a hole in the enclosure and install the jack.
Only the single stage version has the audible alarm. There are other dual stage controllers with actual alarm outputs for not much more money. There are also simple add on temp monitors with alarms, although that would require another probe.
Quit putting words in my mouth!
In case you didn't notice, I recommend buying the dual stage for their versatility. In previous posts I recommend PIDs for anything heat related, again because of their versatility. As you stated, yes, the general consensus is to use a 'PID' for heating elements. Although, it has more to do with the ability of most PIDs to vary/limit the power using PWM and SSR relays than the theoretical tighter control. The fancy PID control functionality is over-hyped for most brewing applications, and unless you get the tuning just right, is actually worse than a simple on/off controller . Even used for RIMS, it doesn't behave much differently than an on/off controller.
I believe most people using these (correctly) as mash controllers are using them for a HERMS rig. On/off control (at full power) is generally not suitable direct heat input to the mash. A lot of folks think any direct heat input, even a PID'd RIMS with an ULWD element, is unsuitable for the mash. The liquid is where mashing occurs, more so than the grain bed, and with direct/RIMS there is localized heating well above the mash temp, especially when ramping.
If you are going to recirc/pump anyway, check out HERMS. A separate small cheap kettle for the HERMS bath can easily be controlled using almost any type of controller. Trying to use the HLT as the HERMS bath just complicates matters, a dedicated one is simpler and better. You would need to agitate the bath somehow. What can serve double duty is an immersion chiller as the HERMS coil. The stainless ones are the same price or cheaper than a copper IC, and conduct heat as good or better (much thinner walled tubing). Some use the HERMS bath filled with ice water as a chiller, but that requires a lot of extra ice and pumping, especially if you wouldn't need ice otherwise. There are better solutions if you do need an ice assist.
And now you have hit on the main reason someone would use one of these controllers for a heating element. For an HLT or HERMS bath, they will work fine, but should be used with an additional SSR so you don't fry the built in relay. The lifespan of relays declines exponentially as you increase the current.
I don't see the 'way cheaper' part, though. Doesn't Auber have a suitable PID for ~$35 and an SSR for ~$10 (or less if you just match the capacity of the ebay controller)?
As for 'way easier', the rigging is virtually identical for both. Maybe a bit more time to RTFM so you understand how the PID controller works.
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
Yep, I have two of them controlling my gas fired HERMS, where on/off control works fine. I've also run it as a direct fired RIMS and it worked great with the MLT burner dialed down a bit.
IMO that depends on your process and how you set your system up. For me using the HLT as the HEX bath makes things much simpler and easier. I understand that it has some limitations and a separate HEX bath would make more sense for a lot of systems, but I don't agree that it's simpler/better in general.
I have tried the direct fired recirc MLT, but it still seemed like there was some localized heating from the heated kettle bottom, even with a clad one.
The only benefit I see of using the HLT as a HERMS bath is less equipment by one smallish pot, which I mentioned. There is no advantage to the volume of a typical HLT for a HERMS, and it is actually a hindrance when trying to ramp temps. There is also the additional juggling required when switching from dough-in to HERMS and mash-out to sparge. That is my basis for calling it simpler and better, process wise anyway, and I would be surprised if any part of the process was simpler/better using the HLT as the HERMS bath. While equipment wise it does mean another pot in the mix, it is a similar argument as to whether a swiss army knife or a box of equivalent tools is better/simpler.
The next project I am hording parts for is a HERMS type coil directly in the mash for full volume mashes (BIAB). I don't think I am the first, but I also don't think it has a name yet- hopefully someone comes up with (very) unPC acronym for it. My main reasons are to reduce complexity, and minimize the time the product spends in the 3500 rpm blender most people call a pump- typically ~2 hours (including chilling) for HERMS/RIMS guys.
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
And one less temp controller, and one less heat source..... Either that or a more complicated process with moving pots of hot water around and/or controlling the HLT manually.
It does make ramping temps much slower, but the larger thermal mass makes it easier to hold a steady temp, especially when using a simple on/off controller rather than a PID. I rarely do step mashes, and my HLT burner is powerful enough that ramping temps isn't painfully slow when I do.
Like I said, it depends on your process. I don't do much juggling at all. To switch from dough-in to HERMS I simply add cold water. I batch sparge, and IMO there's no reason to mash out when batch sparging, so no temp juggling there. I fire the HLT burner up as soon as the MLT starts draining, and by the time the first runnings are transferred, the water is up to sparge temp. It's a very simple, fast, and easy process.
I'm not trying to convince anyone that a single vessel is the best way to do things, I just don't see how adding a second vessel would be an improvement for my particular system. I'd actually like to make some changes that allow me to reduce my rig from a 3 vessel to a 2 vessel. I may be moving out of state soon, in which case I'd likely sell my current set-up and build a single vessel system.
My HEX coil is mounted to the underside of a lid that fits all of my kettles, allowing me to use it in many different configurations. I tried the method you're describing, but found there was too much temp variance between the areas close to the coil and further away. I think it would have worked better with a stir motor, or if my MLT were better insulated so that the HEX was only providing minimal amounts of heat. I've added a lot of insulation to my MLT since then, and might try it again.
I also like to reduce the time the wort spends being pumped. Since adding the insulation I've started leaving the pump off for the first ~30min of the mash. I'm familiar enough with my system that I can hit my temps without the aid of the HERMS, and I don't notice any difference in wort clarity between an hour of re-circulation and 15 min of re-circulation.
BetterSense
Well-Known Member
QFT. In many or most brewing applications, actual PID control is either pointless or meaningless. I think a lot of people use the term PID to refer to temp controllers in general and it is kind of annoying.
