Soldering Stainless steel

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No, it was just a tiny Copper ground lug which I fluxed and then flowed the solder around it. That little thing just started sliding all over the place.

ahh... do the ring of solder like in the coupling application, but set the nut right on top. I know some one posted a photo in this thread. once the solder melts remove heat and BadaBoom BadaBing

-=Jason=-
 
BargainFittings - do the new weldless kits come with the solderered washer/nut combo? Is it standard or must it be requested?
 
Earlier in this thread Wayne mentioned the heat sink of the water in the kettle being enough to keep the solder from Melting in the fitting. I just want to make sure because I want to put a swaged fitting in the bottom of my BK with direct fired flame right under that soldered fitting. If that will hold , then Im gonna do it..
 
Earlier in this thread Wayne mentioned the heat sink of the water in the kettle being enough to keep the solder from Melting in the fitting. I just want to make sure because I want to put a swaged fitting in the bottom of my BK with direct fired flame right under that soldered fitting. If that will hold , then Im gonna do it..

as long as you don't dry fire the keggle and have water in it when its on heat you will be fine

-=Jason=-
 
The surface that contacts the liquid will never get above 212F, but the further the metal sticks out into the flame, the hotter it will be. The propane is burning at a few thousand degrees, so even if it sticks out an inch, you have the potential for disaster. I assume you'll have to attach some sort of plumbing to this fixture which will extend further into the flame. That plumbing will most certainly see extreme temperatures.

My advice: go electric :)
 
Don't put fire on the fittings and you will be fine, Flame on them and you will probably have solder in your wort and a big mess on the ground, burner, etc.

I ran mine for the first time this weekend and had zero issues with any of the 6 fittings on my HLT.
 
+1. Soldered fittings should only be used for electric rigs. You don't want to risk failure from the flames hitting the bottom or licking up the sides. 400F-600F is the melting point of most solder...you don't have to see the flames touching for it to get that hot.
 
Again, for anyone struggling with soft solder, just get a bottle of mapp (yellow bottle) and you can braze with 54% silver solder just fine. The flux is a lot easier to work with than the liquid harris stay clean.
 
Again, for anyone struggling with soft solder, just get a bottle of mapp (yellow bottle) and you can braze with 54% silver solder just fine. The flux is a lot easier to work with than the liquid harris stay clean.

my first attempt was with yellow MAPP gas, and Silver Baizing flux, but I didn't have braising solder, lets say it was not successful until I got the liquid flux

-=jason=-
 
The price of 56% silver solder alone is a turnoff. I wanted to braze my fittings, but have found the lead free plumbing solder to be plenty strong when using a keg tool. Plus, all that stuff can be used for other projects....I personally won't do a whole lot of brazing anywhere else.
 
I stumbled across this post a few days ago and have been reading this one and the keg tool thread from start to finish... All i have to say is WOW. I have a keg I use as a bk with no holes as of yet and two complete kegs sitting in my garage (kinda waiting to make a 3-tier structure). I ordered the stuff from Mcmaster to make the "tool" and 5 couplings and 5 half couplings... I can't wait to get them set up. Thank you to everyone for contributing to the "figuring this out". This tread is pretty old so does anyone have long term used info as if they hold up?
 
3 Batches now on a single tier 3 keggle system. The BK has three soldered side ports, the MLT has 2 and the HLT has 4. They are stonger then hell and even in the scorch zone of the flame and have held with out a flinch! Next Im going to try putting a bottom drain in my BK. (It will recirc the whole time the flame is on during boil to prevent any scorch in the pipe below the kettle)
 
thats good to hear, it's what i expected but figured i would ask. I just received my "tool" items, now need to grind out the reducer to get the bolt to fit. seems like that will be a job in itself. not sure how i am going to lay out my three kegs for holes but I'm one step closer to getting there.
 
I just received my "tool" items, now need to grind out the reducer to get the bolt to fit. seems like that will be a job in itself.
Yeah, if I do it again I'd probably buy a 9/16" bolt instead of the 5/8".

I used a carbide burr in my Dremel.

-Joe
 
That was the longest part for me too, grinding out the couple to receive the 5/8" bolt. Before you solder, make sure that the couples are not tilted. I didn't think about that and one of mine is slightly tilted downwards. Not a big deal, but I would check. If tilted, you could slightly tap it back to square. Soldering was quite easy if you follow the instructions here in this thread. Good luck and show us pictures.
 
Yeah, if I do it again I'd probably buy a 9/16" bolt instead of the 5/8".

I used a carbide burr in my Dremel.

-Joe

I just finished soldering about 12 couplings. I tried using a carbide bit like Joe recommended but it broke in about 30 seconds from me not using it right. I then said screw it and used a 9/16" threaded rod from Home Depot. It worked great. After 12 couplings it had not signs bending or anything and was more than sufficient.

That was the longest part for me too, grinding out the couple to receive the 5/8" bolt. Before you solder, make sure that the couples are not tilted. I didn't think about that and one of mine is slightly tilted downwards. Not a big deal, but I would check. If tilted, you could slightly tap it back to square. Soldering was quite easy if you follow the instructions here in this thread. Good luck and show us pictures.

I agree. The coupling or hole won't always come out exactly square with the kettle. It's no big deal as long as you notice it before you solder it. I simply took the wrench I was using and hit the coupling a few times to get it exactly where I wanted.
 
Nice to know. I just finished with my tool. I tried a couple bits and found one that worked pretty good, I think it came with some kind of tile kit I got some time ago, didn't think it would work but it did the trick. The reducer slides on the bolt just right. I had some grade 8 washers in the garage that fit inside the 1" union perfect, right to the lip inside it, they are pretty thick but still added a couple to get to the end of the 1" union, will keep it perfectly centered.
 
Once my fitting is pulled into place I simply thread a 24" pipe into it and that gives me the leverage to move the fitting to exactly where I want it. Also because the pipe sticks out quite a bit you can eyeball it to "square" pretty easily befor you solder up
 
I'm curious if anyone has success with soldering aluminum to ss. My application will be a bit different than what some others have posted. I'll be using an aluminum lock nut for my element soldered to the inside of my Keg. From what I understand this will act as an anode preventing deposits on the element and keg. I assumed it was needed as the anode has recently been an issue with our home water heater.

I'm curious if it's worth trying the aluminum or just ditch that idea and try the SS lock nut. Any input?
 
I'm curious if anyone has success with soldering aluminum to ss. My application will be a bit different than what some others have posted. I'll be using an aluminum lock nut for my element soldered to the inside of my Keg. From what I understand this will act as an anode preventing deposits on the element and keg. I assumed it was needed as the anode has recently been an issue with our home water heater.

I'm curious if it's worth trying the aluminum or just ditch that idea and try the SS lock nut. Any input?

With that locknut acting as an anode it will break down eventually, someone correct me if I'm wrong, then you'll spring a leak, have to un-solder the locknut & re-solder another on to the pot. If you're using the aluminum locknuts on an SS kettle I'd suggest using them in a weldless installation. If you're going to solder to your SS kettle, use SS or copper. Just my $.02
 
+1. Stainless is just more durable for this application and its better to solder similar metals because aluminum requires special flux.
 
Solder SS locknut on outside of kettle and add the Aluminum locknut on the inside (screwed on) if you feel you need it.
 
Ok, I have a stupid question or two..or maybe not so.... What type of clean-up do you need to perform after soldering? wont the flux leave a film and possibly an aftertaste?
 
Ok, I have a stupid question or two..or maybe not so.... What type of clean-up do you need to perform after soldering? wont the flux leave a film and possibly an aftertaste?

Scrub with BKF and rinse with hot water. That should take care of it. :tank:
 
I've gone through the entire thread at this point.. Are most of you using propane torches for this? Anyone using a soldering iron with success? I have both at my disposal, but probably easier to control where the heat is going if I use the iron.
 
I've gone through the entire thread at this point.. Are most of you using propane torches for this? Anyone using a soldering iron with success? I have both at my disposal, but probably easier to control where the heat is going if I use the iron.

I think code rage or somebody uses an iron and prefers it.
 
bruin_ale said:
I've gone through the entire thread at this point.. Are most of you using propane torches for this? Anyone using a soldering iron with success? I have both at my disposal, but probably easier to control where the heat is going if I use the iron.

Soldering iron would take way to long to evenly heat the keg and coupling.

Use the torch and circle around the coupling it's thickest and takes longer to heat up. once the couplings is hot enough the solder will melt. Remove heat and let cool then wipe clean.

Get the harris liquid flux or the stuff airgas sells made by radnor. Don't pass go don't collect $200 trying other flux. This stuff just plain works.


-= Jason =-
 
I hear ya, after reading the thread I realized the secret to this whole thing is the liquid flux. I've got a welding supply store near my place, going to drop in and see if they have it.
 
klyph said:
The Radnor is made by Harris or vise-versa, same stuff different label.

yeah that's I found out. I think radnor is a sub division of harris and only sold by airgas

-= Jason =-
 
Hey, guys. I tried this yesterday, ss 316 fitting ( close nipple - hex, and a nut on the inside to lock it).

I had a great, tight fit. Everything was sanded, first with ~120 grit, then with 1500. I cleaned all surfaces with muriatic acid (carefully) with a q-tip. And then I applied paste flux. a part didn't seem to stick to the nipple, only the keg wall. (I even tried to heat the flux to spread it more evenly).

Although, a lot of solder seemed to migrate inside the joint and threads (pre-fluxed).

Did that spot that didn't stick fail because of the flux?
 
Paste Flux?
Not for SS soldering. Please tell us what flux and solder you used.

Please - Maybe I can learn something at my "going under age".
 
yeah, I guess I'll redo it, i just thought the muriatic would strip the bones off a skeleton!
it was the sta brite solder, 'course I also burned the solder, too (yeah, that's just great!).
 
So, I just got my keg tool parts in today. Is anyone else having an issue of it making the dimple too big? I'm using bargain fittings couplers and they fit loosly in the dimple. When I say loosly, I mean they don't stay in at all.

At first I thought I was screwed. But, I just took a hammer and lightly tapped around the protrusion side of the dimple to reduce it a little. Then I pressed the coupler through to a nice tight fit. I just wanted to see if anyone else was having this problem. I don't know if I should take the reducing coupler and grind it down a bit or what.
 
So, I just got my keg tool parts in today. Is anyone else having an issue of it making the dimple too big? I'm using bargain fittings couplers and they fit loosly in the dimple. When I say loosly, I mean they don't stay in at all.

At first I thought I was screwed. But, I just took a hammer and lightly tapped around the protrusion side of the dimple to reduce it a little. Then I pressed the coupler through to a nice tight fit. I just wanted to see if anyone else was having this problem. I don't know if I should take the reducing coupler and grind it down a bit or what.

just don't pull the tool so far through the keggle. I used come calipers and found out that the OD of the widest part of my tool was larger than my couplings OD. so I just pull through enough to get my coupling started. with lube, wd40, or 3 in 1 oil, I use the tool and pull my coupling to the exact spot I want it.

-=jason=-
 
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