RIMS Element Selection

I tried a search within HomeBrew Talk and Google, but I could not find a good guide on how to select a RIMS Tube heating element. Let me know if you have a good link. Otherwise, my two major concerns are scorching or other flavor impacting issues, and the element touching the side of the RIMS tube.

I am using the Brewers Hardware tri-clamp RIMS Tube, which is a great design. However the tube is narrow such that the fold over element I tried touches the sides. I am not confident that any amount of bending the element would prevent it from going back to its original position.

Generally i would try to use the lowest watt density, but i am now avoiding the fold over elements.I ended up with a 13" element rated at 4500 watts 240V, running at 110-120V.

Has anyone tried different elements and watt densities in the same configuration to determine at what point the watt density causes problems. The information I have found is anecdotal at best.

That is the exact element I use (bought from Lowes for under $20). works great.

Is 1125 watts enough "umph" for RIMS?

jkarp said:

Is 1125 watts enough "umph" for RIMS?

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Well, why wouldn't it be? You're just maintaining temps with the tube. Granted, stepping would be an issue. But besides that, it should work fine.

ikonis said:

Well, why wouldn't it be? You're just maintaining temps with the tube. Granted, stepping would be an issue. But besides that, it should work fine.

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I've never worked with RIMS nor seen a characterization of the heat loss in non-cooler based MLTs, hence my question. Assuming system heat loss is less than 1125W of course you're right.

jkarp said:

Is 1125 watts enough "umph" for RIMS?

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It depends on the heat loss of the Mash Tun and the flow rate through the RIMS tube. I am successful with 1500 watts.

Yeah, why did you go with the 240 element run on 120 rather than just using a 120v element rated for 1500?

thelorax121 said:

Yeah, why did you go with the 240 element run on 120 rather than just using a 120v element rated for 1500?

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I went with that to achieve ULWD in a form factor that works for my application with an inexpensive part that can be easily found.

there is no difference between a 220V 4000W element run at 110V than a 110V 2000W element run at 110V (unless my math is wrong... is it 1000W? I forget.).

There IS a difference between running any given 220V element at either 110 or 220. that difference is the overall Wattage output. Therefore, you achieve lower watt density, which is desirable.

The 220/240 elements tend to be longer (lower watt density) than the 120 elements at the same wattage at 120v

So I am going to pick up my RIMS element from one of the big box stores and I have a questions about a 240V element run at 110V.

Does this mean I can get any element, wire it to the extension cord and run it through my control panel to my normal 120V outlet? Is this safe? Sorry if this is a dumb question I just have no experience with hot water heating elements.

And can you recommend one from a place like Homedepot/Lowes?

Thanks
Chromados

I dont see an issue with what you've said as long as the 120v outlet is GFCI covered. Note that running a 240v element at 120v is going to get you 1/4 the rated power of said element.


Also, I used to think that all ements were the same, and recently had some flow issues with my RIMS tube and ended up scorching wort and blowing a few elements (dont restrict RIMS tube output flow, ONLY ever the input flow). The elements I started with were from lowes and made by whorlpool, they ended up dieing really fast because once they get scorched at all in the wort they reduce their resistance to ground to about 2 mega ohm (I measured it) and this would cause my GFCI to pop.

At lowes on the other hand they sell camco elements that are coated with a better coating, the elements say they are designed to be used in hard water and stand up to coating better and therefore last longer in hard water. I suggest you use those ones in your RIMS tube just in case, they seem to be much better elements and dont blow right away if you have an issue with low flow and scorch some wort. They have a nickle chromium alloy they use on the element instead of what the ones at lowes have, and IMO are much better.

Here's the element in particular I'm talking about that I use (it's a 4500w): http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100150507/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

I use a camco 4500 watt element wired to 110 in my RIMS with no problems at all. However, my RIMS tube is 4" in diameter.