TAP-A-DRAFT: first impression...

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Also, there were two little black "plugs"....anybody know what they're for? They fit into the bottom of the drip tray, but it doesn't seem like that's what they're for. Am I missing something?

There are for the brown bottles. They're a larger diameter than the blue and the little feet are to compensate for that. Otherwise the drip try falls off.
 
Hmm, weird. I don't know how it's happening then. I screw the tap-a-draft on very tightly, and I don't hear any air escaping from it.

I'm going to bet that your tap has a pressure leak of some sort. Mine doesn't lose any pressure over 3 weeks and no oxidation. If this were over 4 or 5 months...maybe.
 
No oxi issues here either, and I've TAD-d about 20 gallons of homebrew so far... That's an odd one... I naturally carb, and a few things I do:

- I add a little sanitized teflon plubers tape to each bottle before capping.

- I squeeze out the headspace and let the yeast refill it with good ole CO2, this eliminates just about all of the O2 in the bottles.

- I age them for atleast 4 weeks in the TAD bottles.

- When I tap them, I leave the residual teflon tape on the bottle threads unless it has gotten really messy, in which case I just remove it completely and do not replace it. The tap seals realy well and it's not necessary. I typically use one CO2 cart to charge, but sometimes 2. When I use 1, I typically recharge about 1/2-way through the bottle.

I did have trouble with poor pressure one time. I noticed that the CO2 was leaking out of one of the arms that holds the CO2 carts to the tap. I removed everything, took the tap apart, removed the o-ring seal inside that arm, coated it with silocone lube, reinserted and the problem was resolved.

I've been VERY happy with my TAD and will continue to use it until I have the space for a full kegging system.
 
I'm considering a T-A-D system for some of the dubbel I have in a secondary right now (bottle some, T-A-D some).

I'm wondering what is the longest I could let a beer condition in one of those bottles?
Would it start to oxidize after a couple months? My primary concern is around the cap itself. (I'm thinking probably 3 months)

I don't have the space, or funds for the mini keg / fridge mod (not to mention, those are not all that portable).

Just wondering how well this system would work for a "big" beer that needs a bit of conditioning time before it's really ready.
 
I don't have my TaD anymore (kegerator this year - woohoo!), but I stored beer in TaD bottles for 9 months cold with no issues whatsoever.
 
I don't have my TaD anymore (kegerator this year - woohoo!), but I stored beer in TaD bottles for 9 months cold with no issues whatsoever.

I also just finished the last of a TAD brew that had been stored in a fridge for 9-mos. I also took over 2-wks to finish that beer after I tapped it and it was good to the last drop. When I opened the bottle to clean it, there was still pressure in it. Now I'm out and need to brew. I have 9 TAD bottles now.
 
Sorry.

Referring to the Tap-A-Cap instructions and how-to.
Regards,

Walt

It's back here at the beginning of the thread:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/tap-draft-first-impression-60237/#post615754

The product does ship with an instruction sheet.

It's super easy to use. From my first experience with it, I would say to let the beer carb naturally for a couple weeks before crash cooling and hitting with the CO2 - you'll use less CO2 that way. You CAN force carb it - it does work - but I ended up going through 4 or 5 carts for 1 bottle so it seems a bit wasteful.

Takes a little practice to get the pour just right, but after a few tries you'll get beer vs. all foam. Not a steep learning curve.

If you use gelatin for clearing, do that in your primary or secondary before bottling - the little mechanism in the bottle that draws the beer could dip into the beer jello sediment at the bottom of the bottle.

There's some debate on how much priming sugar to use. Most posts I've read suggest less priming sugar than you would in bottling. You'll have to experiment and figure out what works best for you on that one.

There are more than 1 thread on the tap-a-draft on this forum. Definitely worth the money if you don't have the space or $$ for a kegerator
 
Does anyone know if the O-rings are interchangeable? My system had black ones, and I just bought a kit that had the clear ones. They didn't fit on as well, but I did get them on.
 
Read through the majority of this thread... Quick question. I have a great local brewery... Could i have them fill one of the TAD kegs and will it keep the beer for longer because it would be under pressure? Would be fantastic if this was the case.

Casey
 
Read through the majority of this thread... Quick question. I have a great local brewery... Could i have them fill one of the TAD kegs and will it keep the beer for longer because it would be under pressure? Would be fantastic if this was the case.

Casey

I don't know the answer, but I have a TAD system and some comments:

Are you just talking about drawing beer from a tap and storing it in a TAD bottle instead of a growler...or are you going to use the TAD dispensing head and CO2 carts to re-pressurize and serve it?

I had beer I brewed in TAD bottles for >9 months and it was excellent. It was all naturally carbonated and was good for 2-3 weeks after I tapped (maybe longer). I don't know about something drawn from a tap though. That process releases a lot of CO2. In my case, did the process of natural carbonation in the bottle help preserve and seal the bottle? For example, once you break the seal on a 2L bottle of soda, the clock is ticking on it's life. I think filling a TAD bottle from a beer tap would probably have a similar effect...or maybe I'm full of crap and totally wrong.

I will soon have 10 TAD bottles filled. I store them at ferm temps. Before I tap them, I refrigerate them and then insert the CO2 carts.
 
the beer would already be carbonated(out of a tap at a bar)... i just know that growler beer is only good for 1-2 days after first opening it. thanks for the input though. excited to get this system.

anybody w/ experience?
 
the beer would already be carbonated(out of a tap at a bar)... i just know that growler beer is only good for 1-2 days after first opening it. thanks for the input though. excited to get this system.

THis is the thread that brought up my question...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/tap-draft-first-impression-60237/index7.html#post1641867
In a normal growler situation, yes, a couple of days and it would not be drinkable. But if you filled a Tap A Draft bottle at the brewery, squeezed out any air by compressing the bottle, then took it home and put it under carbonation, oxygenation would be minimized, and it should last a good long time. Might not be as good as day one, but 10 fold better than just a glass growler with no carbonation.

--Dale--
 
First bottle tapped fine. The second bottle seems to keep clogging. I put in one co2 cartridge, and didin't dispense, then added another, still didn't. Opened bottle and tube was clogged, reinstalled and added one cartridege, and wouldn't dispense. How do I keep from clogging?
 
what's it clogged with? I've never had a problem with mine. The only problem sometimes is that after awhile, the tube doesn't open. It sorta gets stuck shut, and i gotta give it a little pull to open it up.
 
I've never had a clog in any of mine. I usually let mine condition in my basement for a month and then put them in the fridge for at least a day or two before tapping...sometimes much longer. I naturally condition and have a little sediment. After aging and refrigerating, the sediment has been pretty firm and does not get sucked into the tube
 
what's it clogged with? I've never had a problem with mine. The only problem sometimes is that after awhile, the tube doesn't open. It sorta gets stuck shut, and i gotta give it a little pull to open it up.

He's right. You may want to check your dispensing valve. It basically pinches the little dispensing tube and I think I've read that sometimes that sticks. Also, when you add a new cartridge are you seeing and hearing the gas being discharged into the bottle? I have two dispensing units and 12 bottles and have not had this issue. Of course I just cursed myself.
 
Hello everyone,
Ive used my TAD for a couple brews now, and just wanted to see if anyone has my problem.
I condition with normal priming sugar, and add 1 co2 cart, and another halfway through the bottle. After a couple days, my beer looses its head, and soda-like bubbles form. when i poor my beer from the dispenser, the beer "hisses" like when you poor a can of coke. The bubbles dissipate very quickly, and i am left with a bubbly beer with no head.
Anyone else have this?

Thanks
 
Hello All,

Was hoping to get a keg with my next pay cheque but the missus is against it since the last (actually first) brew I made tasted like soya source. Because I am determined to get draft beer at home we came to a compromise at decided on TAD. I’m planning to get 3 to 4 of those 6 litter bottles but only 1 TAD.

This might be a really silly question – do I need get 3 TAD for all 3 bottles or just 1 TAB and reuse them? This question of cause raised another question like, when I add my dextrose to the other 2 bottles to get the carbonation and when its time to put in the TAD, wont it just loose all the gas? I hope my question make sense.

Thanks in advance folks.
 
Yes, you can get just one tap and when you finish one bottle just put the tap on the next one. Unless you would like to have a couple different brews in the bottles and a couple tapped at the same time.

As far as the carbonation goes.....I still haven't opened my TAD bottles for the first time. I probably will next week sometime. My understanding is that you just prime as normal (I did anyway) and when you open it 2-3 weeks later the excess gas is what blows off, just like a bottle. Example: when you pour youself a glass of beer out of a bottle, it stays carbonated in the glass for quite some time. Well, the first time you open your TAD bottle you'll be screwing your tap on right away and adding the additional CO2 again which will put you back at square one.

Like I said, I have not yet opened one of my TAD bottles, but I believe this is how it should work. I hope to open one in the next 2 weeks and when I do, I want to try and make a video of me doing it. If so, I will post it on my blog and let you know!
 
I have 10 TAD bottles and two taps. I normally prime the beer in a bottling bucket and then transfer to the TAD bottles. I let them age about a month and then refrigerate at least a day before I tap. I start by using 1 CO2 cartridge and once that one is done, I'll add another and after a few pulls, I'll go ahead and add the second. When not in use, I've had the best success with the TAD bottles standing upright. But when they are tapped and being used, they are horizontal. If you are going to go a few days between pours, and your CO2 carts are empty, replace the tap with a sanitized cap until next use.
 
+1

ALWAYS store the bottles upright. They can leak if the pressure gets high and you'd much rather just have excess CO2 escape around the cap rather than precious beer!

What I liked to do is to fill one TAD bottle from each batch and bottle the rest. That way I could start drinking from the TAD bottle as soon as it's ready to go and then set the bottle aside to age a little longer. Plus, I'd end up with TAD bottles lined up with different brews. :D
 
Yes, you can get just one tap and when you finish one bottle just put the tap on the next one. Unless you would like to have a couple different brews in the bottles and a couple tapped at the same time.

As far as the carbonation goes.....I still haven't opened my TAD bottles for the first time. I probably will next week sometime. My understanding is that you just prime as normal (I did anyway) and when you open it 2-3 weeks later the excess gas is what blows off, just like a bottle. Example: when you pour youself a glass of beer out of a bottle, it stays carbonated in the glass for quite some time. Well, the first time you open your TAD bottle you'll be screwing your tap on right away and adding the additional CO2 again which will put you back at square one.

Like I said, I have not yet opened one of my TAD bottles, but I believe this is how it should work. I hope to open one in the next 2 weeks and when I do, I want to try and make a video of me doing it. If so, I will post it on my blog and let you know!


Thanks schmaltzy for that reply. I was a bit confuse as to how many TAD i need to get cause it can get really expensive. I have a wheat beer in the primary and will rack it into the 6 liter bottles once its ready.
 
Thanks schmaltzy for that reply. I was a bit confuse as to how many TAD i need to get cause it can get really expensive. I have a wheat beer in the primary and will rack it into the 6 liter bottles once its ready.

You're profile shows u live in Malaysia so I don't know what shipping is for you, but I get my TAD bottles from Midwest Supplies (TAD System). I only live about 5 hours away from their warehouse so shipping isn't that bad for me. The reason I suggest them is you can get bottles cheaper from them. I just ordered 4 and they included the upgraded caps! Like I said though, shipping could get crazy.
 
Can anyone tell me if a tapped TAD setup fits in the mini fridges typically used for kegerator conversion (Sanyo 49XX, Oster, etc)?

And by fit, I mean can you put them in front-to-back, ready to dispense beer?

SWMBO, to my surprise, recently made mention of getting a dedicated "beer fridge", and since most of my beer is currently going into TAD bottles I want a fridge that will fit them.

I don't keg yet, but I'd like to be able to easily move in that direction for the future, so my first thoughts went to those models most often converted into home kegerators.
 
Thanks schmaltzy for that reply. I was a bit confuse as to how many TAD i need to get cause it can get really expensive. I have a wheat beer in the primary and will rack it into the 6 liter bottles once its ready.
If you don't want to spend much money, you might be able to buy "Miller Home Draft" and use that instead. The 6L bottles are EXACTLY the same. You can also use 3L bottles from the grocery store (although they're clear, which is bad). One TAD bottle cost $8 (pure and simple rip-off)! How can I say that? Because the MillerCoors unit, including 6L of beer in one of the 6L bottles, PLUS a tap (very similar to TAD), PLUS a CO2 cartridge (16 grams, which is twice as big as the TAD) costs $15 from a local distributor.

So here's a few videos I posted a short while back on the topic. The first one was just the TAD bottle, and the second one was after I ran through my first 6L of beer.




One thing I'll say is that if you want to avoid bottling, you sorta need 3 of the 6L bottles (to hold your 5 gallon batch).

The other thing I learned (if you don't watch the second video) is that you actually can force carbonate with TAD. Not sure if it's possible with the MHD yet, but it's real easy with TAD if you don't mind blowing through some CO2.

Looking at prices for CO2, I found this redrockminnesota.com site that has some good prices. For quantity of 100 8 gram units: $0.45 each, delivered. For quantity of 60 16 gram units: $1.15 each, delivered.

The bottom line for Tap-A-Draft is if you buy at the $0.45 price, you can probably force carbonate your beer at a price of about $6 per 5 gallon batch (use 4 or 5 of the 8 gram cartridges per 6L in the Tap-A-Draft). If you bottle condition, then just use CO2 for dispensing, you could get-by much cheaper (about $3 per batch), only using 2 of the 8 gram cartridges per 6L. Re-using the Home Draft units, the price for carbonation would be similar, although like I said I'm not sure how to force carbonate with the Home Draft units.

--Dale--
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If you don't want to spend much money, you might be able to buy "Miller Home Draft" and use that instead. The 6L bottles are EXACTLY the same. You can also use 3L bottles from the grocery store (although they're clear, which is bad). One TAD bottle cost $8 (pure and simple rip-off)! How can I say that? Because the MillerCoors unit, including 6L of beer in one of the 6L bottles, PLUS a tap (very similar to TAD), PLUS a CO2 cartridge (16 grams, which is twice as big as the TAD) costs $15 from a local distributor.

So here's a few videos I posted a short while back on the topic. The first one was just the TAD bottle, and the second one was after I ran through my first 6L of beer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNHqr-zQ_IE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLRyYA2khCw

One thing I'll say is that if you want to avoid bottling, you sorta need 3 of the 6L bottles (to hold your 5 gallon batch).

The other thing I learned (if you don't watch the second video) is that you actually can force carbonate with TAD. Not sure if it's possible with the MHD yet, but it's real easy with TAD if you don't mind blowing through some CO2.

Looking at prices for CO2, I found this redrockminnesota.com site that has some good prices. For quantity of 100 8 gram units: $0.45 each, delivered. For quantity of 60 16 gram units: $1.15 each, delivered.

The bottom line for Tap-A-Draft is if you buy at the $0.45 price, you can probably force carbonate your beer at a price of about $6 per 5 gallon batch (use 4 or 5 of the 8 gram cartridges per 6L in the Tap-A-Draft). If you bottle condition, then just use CO2 for dispensing, you could get-by much cheaper (about $3 per batch), only using 2 of the 8 gram cartridges per 6L. Re-using the Home Draft units, the price for carbonation would be similar, although like I said I'm not sure how to force carbonate with the Home Draft units.

--Dale--


+1 for your info on the TAD and Miller Draft systems! A couple weeks ago I picked up 4 TAD bottles from Midwest Supplies but then I read your info on the Miller system. Stopped by the local liqueur stop and they had them. Picked one up and been slowly drinking on it. The thing I really wanted was the extra tap which is $35 not including shipping on Midwest's website. So I figure $20 for an extra tap and bottle isn't too bad. I now have 8 TAD bottles (including the Miller TAD bottle) and 2 taps. Having that second tap will be really handy cause I'll soon have 3 beers in TAD bottles.
 
.. So I figure $20 for an extra tap and bottle isn't too bad.
You betcha. I've actually got a friend that's knows a distributor who gets the out-dated beer back. He's managed to get me a few expired and a few empties (but the CO2 is intact on all) for $6 and $2, respectively. So I'm all about keeping these things out of the landfill, especially when the alternative is paying so much for the new ones!

--Dale--
 
You betcha. I've actually got a friend that's knows a distributor who gets the out-dated beer back. He's managed to get me a few expired and a few empties (but the CO2 is intact on all) for $6 and $2, respectively. So I'm all about keeping these things out of the landfill, especially when the alternative is paying so much for the new ones!

--Dale--

Anyway you could get a couple more and ship 'em out my way? I'd pay the shipping of course.
 
You betcha. I've actually got a friend that's knows a distributor who gets the out-dated beer back. He's managed to get me a few expired and a few empties (but the CO2 is intact on all) for $6 and $2, respectively. So I'm all about keeping these things out of the landfill, especially when the alternative is paying so much for the new ones!

--Dale--

Sorry if i missed it but could you go through an explanation of how to force Carb using TAD? I am about to bottle/draft some scotch ale that is in the secondary and would love to try this out...

Do i prime the TAD as well before attempting to FC?

Thanks.
 
Sorry if i missed it but could you go through an explanation of how to force Carb using TAD? I am about to bottle/draft some scotch ale that is in the secondary and would love to try this out...

Do i prime the TAD as well before attempting to FC?

Thanks.

Either prime or force carbonate.

1) Prime with slightly less sugar than you would when bottling, and then just use the cartridge for serving.

2) Force carbonate with 2 or 3 CO2 cartridges over a several day period taking samples to check for proper carbonation. You can also modify the tap or cartridge to work with a larger bottle so you don't have to blow through so many expensive 16 gram cartridges.
 
Sorry if i missed it but could you go through an explanation of how to force Carb using TAD? I am about to bottle/draft some scotch ale that is in the secondary and would love to try this out...

Do i prime the TAD as well before attempting to FC?

Thanks.
I needed to bring some beer to a party that was only a few days out, so I didn't use any bottling sugar. I was using the TAD tap, and when I put the first 8gm CO2 cartridge in it, I thought I heard some leaking, even though I tightened it hard. What I actually heard was the CO2 going into the beer, which is good, but it spooked me, so I started poking around on the tap, and made a discovery. On each side there is a small plastic cap with a hole in it (look at the TAD-Miller Home Draft comparison video, near the end of the video). That's the key to controlling carbonation.

One way to carbonate would be to just install CO2 cartridges and wait. But it would probably take a week or so, all the while making sure your CO2 wasn't expired.

To check if your CO2 has expired, or to force carbonate, you pop that small plastic cap off. There will be a little spring in there. Set the cap and spring aside, then press your finger in the place where the spring usually presses. You should see/feel/hear CO2 going into the beer in massive quantities.

So the way I force carbonated was that I just performed the above activity twice a day. Replacing CO2 cartridges when they quit producing. I just felt the bottle, and if it was "squishy", I gave it another jolt of CO2. All-told, I used 5 cartridges to carbonate and serve the 6L. BTW, I haven't poked around enough on the MHD taps to know if the same "trick" is available. Probably is, but I haven't done it (yet).

Hope that helps!

--Dale--
 
Anyway you could get a couple more and ship 'em out my way? I'd pay the shipping of course.
If I get "too many" I would do it, but based on what I've seen so far, I doubt there's going to be many left. In fact, local folks are coming out of the woodwork here, interested in these units. I'm actually glad for the interest because if we get enough of us (locals) using these, we can pool our funds for a large buy of cartridges to get the unit cost down.
 
Back
Top