How to build a 5 gal, 110v eBIAB kettle

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Is there a good solid build thread for the controller? or a post number for a build int he brutus thread? I looked through it a bit but I'm having trouble finding a good plan for the controller.

I'll put one together for you. I built mine from the Countertop Brutus thread.
 
Ditto on the detailed wiring write up...great thread tho. I want to tackle a similar build, but my electrical engineer brother is too busy to wire it up for me so I'll have to tackle it myself. I definitely need the wiring diagram.
 
Guys I've been super busy at work, and haven't had time to do a write-up on the controller. I will do one ASAP.

I've been doing double brews lately and using an unmodified cooler to mash in, so I haven't been using the controller at all. Just watching the dial thermometer that I stick through the hole in the lid.
 
Fantastic. This is exactly what I was looking for! Any thoughts on using 2 2000 watt elements? I don't really know much of anything about electric brewing so I'm not sure how/if that would work, but it seems it would help get to boil faster right? Is it ok to plug both the elements in to one wall outlet, or should they be plugged in to separate outlets? (Not one like use a splitter and plug them both in to one, but one like the top and bottom of a normal two-socket outlet).

Thanks!

EDIT: Something like this? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLVBW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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Fantastic. This is exactly what I was looking for! Any thoughts on using 2 2000 watt elements? I don't really know much of anything about electric brewing so I'm not sure how/if that would work, but it seems it would help get to boil faster right? Is it ok to plug both the elements in to one wall outlet, or should they be plugged in to separate outlets? (Not one like use a splitter and plug them both in to one, but one like the top and bottom of a normal two-socket outlet).

Thanks!

EDIT: Something like this? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLVBW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Each element needs to be on a 20A breaker with nothing else on the circuit. Otherwise you'll not only overload the wiring, but hopefully trip the breaker often (to keep you safe, albeit inconvenient while brewing).

I use two 120v elements, each on their own independent circuit with nothing else consuming power.
 
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Each element needs to be on a 20A breaker with nothing else on the circuit. Otherwise you'll not only overload the wiring, but hopefully trip the breaker often (to keep you safe, albeit inconvenient while brewing).

I use two 120v elements, each on their own independent circuit with nothing else consuming power.


Houses are normally wired with 1 circuit in a room, right? But I thought those were 15A circuits not 20. If I'm not mistaken, bathrooms and kitchens often have 20A though, correct? How can I tell what each circuit is rated for? Is there anyway to tell what outlets are on what circuit short of turning off the breaker and seeing what still works?
 
My house has multiple rooms on a single breaker, some rooms with multiple, and we only have 20A; so it is pretty case specific.

They make little gizmos that you can plug into an outlet, then hover a remote thingy over your breaker box and it will beep at the breaker that the gizmo is plugged into. Sorry I don't know what it's called. Breaker Locater maybe? It's pretty helpful and not too pricey. If you haven't mapped your house or labeled your box yet it may be worth investing in.
 
Well I'm in college and plan to go to law school so for the next few years, I'll be on the move fairly regularly. I'm not going to invest in a system that requires anything more than a normal outlet, and I'd *really* like to make sure that I could keep using this regardless of what rental property I may be in next year. Is it a safe bet that anywhere will have 20A? Or do older houses have less? 2 1650Watt elements would draw 13.75 amps each, meaning they could be run on two separate 15amp circuits, right? Then I imagine I could sit the rig on my counter or somewhere near an outlet, plug in one element there, and run an extension cord to another outlet on a different circuit, right? I'd like the 2,000watt elements for faster heating and *possibly* doing larger batches down the road, but I'd also obviously like it to be compatible EVERYWHERE, not just some houses.
 
Well I'm in college and plan to go to law school so for the next few years, I'll be on the move fairly regularly. I'm not going to invest in a system that requires anything more than a normal outlet, and I'd *really* like to make sure that I could keep using this regardless of what rental property I may be in next year. Is it a safe bet that anywhere will have 20A? Or do older houses have less? 2 1650Watt elements would draw 13.75 amps each, meaning they could be run on two separate 15amp circuits, right? Then I imagine I could sit the rig on my counter or somewhere near an outlet, plug in one element there, and run an extension cord to another outlet on a different circuit, right? I'd like the 2,000watt elements for faster heating and *possibly* doing larger batches down the road, but I'd also obviously like it to be compatible EVERYWHERE, not just some houses.

Yes. Worst case you could plug one into the Kitchen and one into the Bathroom GFI's and use an extension cord.

I brewed at a friends house with this kettle and did just that. Worked, you just have an extension cord to deal with.
 
Yes. Worst case you could plug one into the Kitchen and one into the Bathroom GFI's and use an extension cord.

I brewed at a friends house with this kettle and did just that. Worked, you just have an extension cord to deal with.

I actually have two 25' 12g. ext cords that are wired into a double gang box that has two switched outlets (one per cord). I plug those cords into outlets on either side of my basement. One was for a water softener that's no longer in use and the other is for the washing machine. My breaker box has them labeled and using christmas lights I was able to verify when I tripped the breaker, that I had the right outlet.

I use a 1500w and a 1650w element. I put the 1650 into the 20A outlet and the 1500 in a 15A outlet. Eventually I'll extend those outlets with Romex and not have to use extension cords. The current cords only reach so far anyway and thus I have to put my HLT somewhere I'd rather not as it interferes with access to the sink (it's above and to the left, but still kinda "in the way" when I have the hose attached to run off strike/sparge water).
 
And I suppose if I only have access to one 20A circuit, there's nothing I can do? Some apartments I've been looking at for next year are a little older so I may call and ask about the circuitry. I'd assume they've got at least 2 20amp circuits per unit, but I'm not really sure..
 
And I suppose if I only have access to one 20A circuit, there's nothing I can do? Some apartments I've been looking at for next year are a little older so I may call and ask about the circuitry. I'd assume they've got at least 2 20amp circuits per unit, but I'm not really sure..

Typically the Kitchen and bathrooms are each on their own 15-20A circuit as the appliances that are used in there (blenders, food processors, hair dryers, etc.) consume a fair amount of power. I'd be somewhat surprised if an apartment was on just one 20A circuit unless it was a studio.

You can always do partial boil or smaller batches. You CAN boil water with one single element, but it will take longer. I've boiled 5g. with my 1650w by itself, so a 3-4g. batch would be possible, or shoot for a higher OG, more IBU's and dilute. Software can help you do that.
 
So, I'm a little confused here. You have listed 1" Stainless Steel Locknuts for kettle insulation but aren't water heater elements an 1 1/4"?
 
I'd still like to see the controller in detail if possible, ordering everything to make this setup today.
 
inhousebrew said:
So, I'm a little confused here. You have listed 1" Stainless Steel Locknuts for kettle insulation but aren't water heater elements an 1 1/4"?

I followed the parts list exactly and it worked so the 1,650 watt element is 1".
 
I have a rather dumb question. Well maybe not, well see.

So, I'm thinking of attaching my element this way and was wondering about grounding the element. If I don't want to solder the wire (because I don't have the tools available) could I just screw in a any old screw and attach the grounding wire to that on the inside. In most conduit boxes it looks like the grounding is just a screw on the inside, can I just recreate this or am I probably going to kill myself?
 
I have a rather dumb question. Well maybe not, well see.

So, I'm thinking of attaching my element this way and was wondering about grounding the element. If I don't want to solder the wire (because I don't have the tools available) could I just screw in a any old screw and attach the grounding wire to that on the inside. In most conduit boxes it looks like the grounding is just a screw on the inside, can I just recreate this or am I probably going to kill myself?

The kettle and the element should both be grounded for a three wire gfci outlet w/ ground, some attach a ground screw to the kettle to do this.

There are also 2 wire gfci's that function without ground, caution should be used....I know nothing about them only that they exist...
http://www.coopersafety.com/product...=Shopping&utm_campaign=ShoppingCom&sid=104086
 
And I suppose if I only have access to one 20A circuit, there's nothing I can do? Some apartments I've been looking at for next year are a little older so I may call and ask about the circuitry. I'd assume they've got at least 2 20amp circuits per unit, but I'm not really sure..

I would be surprised if an apartment were not to have at least 2, 15 amp circuits, which could power 2 elements at 1500w each which is adequate for 5 gal batches.

Many apartment brewers also use a 1500w e-kettle or heatstick in conjunction w/ the stovetop to boil 5 gal. batches fwiw, several ways to skin the cat.
 
I noticed you use 2 separate elements but only control one with the PID. Is the PID smart enough to notice this and not drastically overshoot temps? I'm working on a simlar setup and keep debating whether to use the PID to control both elements or just one.

Also curious how you handle the boil. Do you run both elements then? In my experience one 2000w element does not provide a sufficient boil for a 5 gallon batch.

Also great thread on the build of the controller. It's nice to see not everyone needs or wants to replicate Kal's amazing yet expensive panel.

Thanks,
Ty
 
I noticed you use 2 separate elements but only control one with the PID. Is the PID smart enough to notice this and not drastically overshoot temps? I'm working on a simlar setup and keep debating whether to use the PID to control both elements or just one.

Also curious how you handle the boil. Do you run both elements then? In my experience one 2000w element does not provide a sufficient boil for a 5 gallon batch.

Also great thread on the build of the controller. It's nice to see not everyone needs or wants to replicate Kal's amazing yet expensive panel.

Thanks,
Ty

I run both elements to get the water up to strike temperature faster. If I am doughing in at say 158, I will unplug the non-PID element about 3 or 4 degrees before target so I don't overshoot, and let the PID element get me there.

During the boil I unplug the PID completely, and run both elements wide open straight into the wall receptacle.

I love Kal's setup, but I also like some hands on approach to brewing.
 
Awesome thanks!

Also I just got my pvc fittings and elements, my 1" threaded coupling will not fit over the black part of the elements, did you use threaded/slip fittings? or threaded all the way through?

It is a threaded/slip coupling. Sorry, I'll edit the OP.
 
Awesome build !

I've got two questions for people using this exact setup

1) what do you do to get rid of all the water vapor when boiling ? I do 5 gallons batches and the pre-boil amount is like 7-8 gallons which is too heavy to put on a stovetop I think.

2) I have an aluminium pot, how could I attach the ground wire to the pot ? Soldering won't work obviously.
 
Has anyone done 1 gallon batches in this set up? I am very very interested in this set up, but would like to be able do different sizes...
 
If anyone else asked this question, I missed it. It looks like you bent the elements to keep them from touching. I didn't know you could do that. Did you in fact bend the elements? Did you do any research to make sure you could, or did you just do it? Has it caused any problems. (This is my research before I bend my element)?
Thanks
 
If anyone else asked this question, I missed it. It looks like you bent the elements to keep them from touching. I didn't know you could do that. Did you in fact bend the elements? Did you do any research to make sure you could, or did you just do it? Has it caused any problems. (This is my research before I bend my element)?
Thanks

I've bent mine, too. Just go slow, don't use something like pliers, rather try using pvc pipe or something you can slide over it and gently bend it.
 
Ordered my supplies last night! Excited to get started on this build. Thanks for your in depth how to. Hopefully start the PID next week as well.
 
After working on it for a while today....

Finished!

azqZoHi.jpg
 
Your build post got me out of the kitchen and into my man cave. I do extract brews. I used a single 2000w 120v element on a 5gal brew pot. I only need to heat and boil so no need of a controller. I used a 2 gang box with a GFI outlet and on/off switch. My fist brew day with the e kettle went perfect ! :mug:


 
If you can successfully solder it, it should be perfectly effective. I think it's more common to attach with a screw, though, and that makes it much easier to remove later (for whatever reason you might want to).
 
How effective is soldering the ground wire to an aluminum pot?

I squeezed mine in between the union. Several batches in and still going. I am going to upgrade to a 8 gal pot to do full 5gal boils though.
 
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