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Elfmaze

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When i had the welding done on my keggle the plugs got fused into the couplings. Oil and big wrenches later i got the three plugs out. two of the couplings i was able to get to seal up again the thermometer and the ball valve, BUT the sight glass port is too damaged. I tried taping and lubing a SS plug into the port and got it all the way in, BUT it was still dripping and when i took it out the first three rows of threads on the plug were flattened :( . When i get the site glass fittings in do i force them in again and see if i can get it to seal with lots of tape, or is it to the point were its time to solder around the joint?
 
Use a pipe tap to clean up the threads in the keg as much as possible, throw the galled plugs away and get new ones. Coat the threads with aquarium grade silicone and leave it exposed to air for 2 - 5 minutes to start vulcanizing reaction, then screw fitting into keg. Do not use teflon tape as it will not help at this stage, the silicone will set in about 24 hours and will seal the damaged threads. This is a trick we use on plastic threaded joints that do not hold during pressure testing, no tape, just silicone caulk hand tight.
 
I can't find anyone with a die locally that will touch it since its stainless steel. They say it will damage there die... I don't want to spend $30 on the tool for a one time use. I'm almost ready to try dremel to slean out the thread where its damaged... :(
 
Second and third on the tap and the silicone.

Its after the horse got out but you never ever thread a plug into a coupler that you welding maybe a thread or two but thats it. The coupler expand and what I call jump the thread ( cross threaded) and the second never ever is try to force it out just mess up the the treads more. Drill it out and spend some time with a hacksaw blade cutting the plug out.

I had a brain gas a while back finish tig welding a 1 inch coupler pick up the plug and threaded it by hand walked to the door when my brain kicked back in too late.

Try a Tool rental for a pipe tap use cutting oil and go easy if you going into a full coupler remember the thread goes half way Thur the coupler.

Just take it easy

Dominus Vobiscum

Swagman:cool:
 
I can't find anyone with a die locally that will touch it since its stainless steel. They say it will damage there die... I don't want to spend $30 on the tool for a one time use. I'm almost ready to try dremel to slean out the thread where its damaged... :(

American brand taps that are sharp will cut and chase the threads like butter just use the proper tap lube for stainless. I've had the joy of machining down a step on couplings, Tig the outside then grind down what sticks thru from the step to match the kegs radius inside then fusion weld the joint from the inside. When done the inside thread becomes undersized due to thermal shrinkage which needs to be corrected by chasing the threads with a tap from the inside. This for threading on the FB pickup tube as well other keggle uses like your temp probe or sight gauge.
Dull or low quality imported China taps well your on your own.
 
I can't find anyone with a die locally that will touch it since its stainless steel. They say it will damage there die... I don't want to spend $30 on the tool for a one time use. I'm almost ready to try dremel to slean out the thread where its damaged... :(

American brand taps that are sharp will cut and chase the threads like butter just use the proper tap lube for stainless. I've had the joy of machining down a step on couplings, Tig the outside then grind down what sticks thru from the step to match the kegs radius inside then fusion weld the joint from the inside. When done the inside thread becomes undersized due to thermal shrinkage which os corrected by chasing the threads with a tap from the inside. This for threading on the FB pickup tube as well other keggle uses like your temp probe or sight gauge. If your into brewing you'll wish you had that tap in the future that will be used many times, what's $30 these days?

I have purchased special so called "one time use" and factory only tools in the $200 range, lathe, milled and Tig welded copies then sold the original never used one at 80% of value. This way I have my own tools but used many times a year like BMW motorcycle rearend drives for an example. Have made thousands of dollars on rebuiding them over the years. More than paid for themselves.
 
just a side note. GE silicone I is also "aquarium" safe. even if it says otherwise on the label. I have built and resealed countless aquariums with it.
 
The tube says not to use on surfaces that exceed 400`F. The silicone II has antifungus and antibacterial agaents in it.
 
Whoo! we have Seal-age!

Thanks again guys! of all things a mini screw driver was able to clear some threading and the silicon made it solid.
 
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