Brutus Ten ????

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For HERMS or RIMS is it pretty critical to have the temperature controls?
 
I've been lurking around for a few days in and around the topic of this thread. I didn't want to hijack this thread, but just wanted to say a hello for starters. Been brewin' for 3 years now and am now in the process of building a brutus 10 version b or something like that... still doing a lot of thinking. Got a few pics though of my progress and maybe to some which will stand for inspiration- definintely not a hard undertaking following someone elses blueprint. Let's see if I can post these babies... Ok "script prompt...URL of your image"-- I don't quite understand that, but I'll figure out how to post a few images for you guys and gals coming soon.
 
I am almost done with my Brutus Ten. (maybe two hrs of work) I will try to post some pics. I have around 1300.00 in to the stand so far. the welding was hardest part. (the gas manifold sucked) and I was able to have the welder at work do the SS on the Kegs. I have done a test run and I can answer the questions I asked on the opening post.
1.How well will the love controller maintain the temp of the MLT (5 to 10 degree swings)?
the controllers have a two degree swing. (Set point of 150 flame off temp drops to 148 and the flame is back on.)
2.How many times dose the burner cycle on and off. (worried about the solenoids burning up)?
It was a short test run but the burners only came on Two or Three times in about 20 min (just H2O).
3.How well does the burner on the MLT work going from flame to no flame?
The burners light great with the Kegs/Pots in place but did not fully light with them off.
(may try a different pilot).

Thank for all the input :ban: :ban: :ban: :ban:
 
I've never used one of these, but I am a total fabrication geek, that works as an engineer, I totally want to build one of these one day (with my own tweaks of course). One question though....HOW DO YOU CLEAN AND SANITIZE IT??? You have all the valves, and pipe or hose, do you just circulate sanitizer and cleaning agents through it???
 
My Brutus Ten is coming along nicely too, but I'm a good bit further away than you wshymas. I figure a couple more weeks if the weekend weather stays nice.

I'm also curious about your pilot setup. I bought three of this natural gas burner and this pilot burner tip that I plan to hook up a 1/4 inch copper gas line to. I'm concerned about the wind blowing it out. A plain standing pilot. I hope it works.
 
Trodd said:
I've never used one of these, but I am a total fabrication geek, that works as an engineer, I totally want to build one of these one day (with my own tweaks of course). One question though....HOW DO YOU CLEAN AND SANITIZE IT??? You have all the valves, and pipe or hose, do you just circulate sanitizer and cleaning agents through it???
Click to expand...

Just use lots of quick disconnects or barb fittings on hoses, pumps, plate chiller, thermoprobes, so you can easily disassemble for cleaning.
 
Trodd said:
I've never used one of these, but I am a total fabrication geek, that works as an engineer, I totally want to build one of these one day (with my own tweaks of course). One question though....HOW DO YOU CLEAN AND SANITIZE IT??? You have all the valves, and pipe or hose, do you just circulate sanitizer and cleaning agents through it???
Click to expand...

I am going to try circulating the sanitizer and I can remove my liquid lines if I need to clean the valves and fittings.
 
Hi all
I am getting ready to start this project. I have sourced the SS tubing at $480.00 local stock, and will have a fabricator do the welding. He recommended that I use aluminum with a chem-film and powder coated paint instead of SS. Is there any problem with that, other than the "coolness" factor? I'll probably still go SS, but want to consider this possibility. Is everyone doing the gas manifold, or are some plumbing it externally?

Thanks
KD
 
I made the gas manifold. I'm using mild steel, not SS.

$480 is a good price, assuming you are talking 40 feet of 2 x 2 inch by .120 wall square tubing. The best price I could find was $685.

How much heat can powder-coat paint take? The top will get very hot. I plan to use a high temperature paint unless I can find a better solution.

I am not an engineer so I couldn't tell you what type and size aluminum tubing would work from a structural perspective.
 
Al is fairly strong, stronger than steel if compared in strength to weight. So you would be in good shape if you used the same dimension stock in Al. It would be lighter and the weight from the tanks would be well with in the limits of the stand.
 
billtzk said:
I made the gas manifold. I'm using mild steel, not SS.

$480 is a good price, assuming you are talking 40 feet of 2 x 2 inch by .120 wall square tubing. The best price I could find was $685.

How much heat can powder-coat paint take? The top will get very hot. I plan to use a high temperature paint unless I can find a better solution.

I am not an engineer so I couldn't tell you what type and size aluminum tubing would work from a structural perspective.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Not sure on the paint temperature question yet. Will check. Speaking of the manifold, is there any reason not to tap the holes and use nipples, instead of welding the fittings in place?

Thanks to Slnies too for aluminum post.
 
korndog said:
Speaking of the manifold, is there any reason not to tap the holes and use nipples, instead of welding the fittings in place?
Click to expand...

1/8th inch thick metal doesn't make for much thread to hold a threaded nipple. I think it would leak. But I really can't say for sure.

The fabricator should have no problem welding in couplings. SS or weldable mild steel 1/2 couplings. The SS ones are easy to find as all the beer stores sell them for people who want to make keggles, but weldable mild steel couplings you probably have to order from McMaster Carr. That's what I did.
 
billtzk said:
1/8th inch thick metal doesn't make for much thread to hold a threaded nipple. I think it would leak. But I really can't say for sure.

The fabricator should have no problem welding in couplings. SS or weldable mild steel 1/2 couplings. The SS ones are easy to find as all the beer stores sell them for people who want to make keggles, but weldable mild steel couplings you probably have to order from McMaster Carr. That's what I did.
Click to expand...

ok cool. good point. I doubt .120 will produce a good threaded gas seal now that I think about it. Doh!

I did notice Lonny hand tapping the pump holes, which made me think about it. I didn't consider 1/2" taps would be a bit different. Doh again!
 
I just got the quote for the labor in aluminum or steel. $300.00 out the door with manifold. Damn, this seems cheap to me. He said his work in aluminum would be very clean and not require any grinding. This guy has made breweries for some local club members, so I think I am going to go for it. Any last minute words on material choice? If I go stainless, I'll be $800.00 into the frame; I can save a couple hundred in aluminum. What about the holes for wiring. Does anyone have this laid out as to size and exit holes? One. I just found .060 wall ss tubing for half the price of the .120 wall. Lonny, if you are on this board, do you think that would work? anybody else?

Thanks
KD

Edit: I decided to go with the .120 wall for safety. I just re-read the BYO article and see that Lonny would not use aluminum. I still would like a wiring diagram for the exit holes, and how to reduce the tubing to accommodate casters.
 
korndog said:
... and how to reduce the tubing to accommodate casters.
Click to expand...

Use square tubing inserts. I'm using the McMaster Carr part number 60945 K31 -- Load-Rated Tube Adapter, 1/2" - 13 thread, 2 inch square, nylon, for 12 and 11 gage wall.

Be sure to get 1/2 inch - 13 threaded stem castors. There are a bunch of options from McMaster Carr, but you might find suitable ones locally too.
 
billtzk said:
Use square tubing inserts. I'm using the McMaster Carr part number 60945 K31 -- Load-Rated Tube Adapter, 1/2" - 13 thread, 2 inch square, nylon, for 12 and 11 gage wall.

Be sure to get 1/2 inch - 13 threaded stem castors. There are a bunch of options from McMaster Carr, but you might find suitable ones locally too.
Click to expand...

Excellent. Thanks Bill.
 
I am considering foregoing the manifold beam in favor of a plumbed system using tubing strapped to the the lower rear beam. I was wondering if I can go 1/2" for the entire gas system or if I need to go larger for the main line. I will be using low pressure LP gas, standing pilots, and Asco 8210 valves as per Lonnie's specs.

Thanks
KD
 
1/2" pipe should be more than enough. That's what most people use when they put together their plumbing for their brew stand. I've actually got 3/8" plumbing on my current stand and haven't had any problems. My new stand is getting 1/2" though - just easier to find what you need. I'm almost done with it and should be able to break it in next weekend.
 
Lil' Sparky said:
1/2" pipe should be more than enough. That's what most people use when they put together their plumbing for their brew stand. I've actually got 3/8" plumbing on my current stand and haven't had any problems. My new stand is getting 1/2" though - just easier to find what you need. I'm almost done with it and should be able to break it in next weekend.
Click to expand...

Ok, cool.

Thanks again.
 
Hey guys
Does anybody have a copy of the BYO article or the parts list therefrom scanned? I gave my copy of the mag to my welder without copying it. Thanks and sorry for the trouble.

KD
 
well my Brutus Ten frame is at the welders as we speak. I pick it up either Wed or Thursday. Ill be sure to post some pics of my progress as I piece it together.

Ill say this though.....this is getting expensive.
 
Chimone said:
well my Brutus Ten frame is at the welders as we speak. I pick it up either Wed or Thursday. Ill be sure to post some pics of my progress as I piece it together.

Ill say this though.....this is getting expensive.
Click to expand...

Yeah, +1 on that! I have 800 into the frame. I spent 350 on pumps, 200 on a Therminator, Mcmaster Carr order was 300.00 for some casters, switches, and sheet metal! I can't imagine getting out of this for less than 3K.

KD
 
lets see....

275 for frame welded up including mats
300 for pumps
100 on burners
150 for 3 kegs to get modified
300 for temp control and solenoid valves
I think it's going to be about 1.5-2k in the end

So much for my tax return....


But Ill now be able to finally do step mashing and 10 gallons at once. And in reality I can now do back to back batches in not that much time.

Can I make good beer without all this? Of course I could. But then I wouldn;t have this great excuse to build a really cool and functional toy
 
I was just ribbing you. I'm an a constant state of upgrade with my brewery too. I just can't go for an all-out B10 replica. And you're right, while the resulting beer isn't necessarily better, some things are considerably easier and make my brew day more enjoyable.
 
I never did do a price list for the stand but I have spent around $1300.00
I need a chiller ($120-#200) so about $1500. this is counting expendables like grinding disks new roll of wire for the welder ect...
 
ok question.....

more beer has those very nice SS quick disconnects for 30 bucks a set. Has anyone seen them for less anywhere else? If not Ill settle for brass ones. Well Im either going quick disconnects or those clover ones used in the real breweries. Not sure yet, we'll see how much I have leftover from my refund.

And yes the chiller is going to be another 100 bucks or so. Going with a plate chiller
 
Bobby_M said:
I love the brass ones. Very well built and I can't see spending 10x the money on stainless.
Click to expand...


but they are so shiny! ;)


I know...theres no way Im spending that much. But if someone could find them for around 8-10 bucks per instead of 30, I would consider it.
 
Bobby_M said:
I love the brass ones. Very well built and I can't see spending 10x the money on stainless.
Click to expand...
+1, I got to brew with the brass ones from McMaster for the first time this weekend and they worked great.
 

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