Avantco IC3500 Induction cooker, anyone tried it?

http://www.webstaurantstore.com/ava...le&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=GoogleShopping

I'm looking forward to buy an Induction cooker in the next few days, but I'm torn between a Max Burton 1800 watts and this 3500 wats IC. I asked a cousin of mine who's an electrician and says he could install a 240 volts power plug without any problems in my condo.

Still, I'm a bit worried with this Avantico IC, it's seems very cheap, I've looked for others IC in the same range of watts and they were over 1500$... This one is a bit under 200$. Something's fishy.

Plus, it says "The IC3500 will accept induction ready pots and pans with a bottom diameter up to 8 1/2"." My brewpot has a 15 inches diameter.

It also says "you can cook by choosing one of the 10 digitally controlled power levels, or select from one of 10 temperature settings (140 to 460 degrees Fahrenheit)!". One of 10 temperature settings from 140 to 460 F? Fixed temperatures?

I'm confused.

they also dont mention the fact that for every 10 watts of power you pull from the wall, only maybe 4 to 6 of those watts end up actaully heating the water. so if that pulls 3500 watts from the wall, that is about equivalent in performance to a 1800w immersion water heater, only twice as expensive to run.

such is an induction cooker.

audger said:

they also dont mention the fact that for every 10 watts of power you pull from the wall, only maybe 4 to 6 of those watts end up actaully heating the water. so if that pulls 3500 watts from the wall, that is about equivalent in performance to a 1800w immersion water heater, only twice as expensive to run.

such is an induction cooker.

Click to expand...

I am not an expert, but I don't believe this is correct as induction burners are supposed to be much more efficient than electric coil or gas burners. Here's a quote from a write-up on induction burners:

"Induction
The induction method of cooking involves a magnetic process. Induction cooktops transfer a magnetic field into the cooking vessel, such as a pot or pan, causing it to heat up. The magnetic field "induces" heating in the pot or pan, as described on the Reluctantgourmet website. As with the radiant heating process, the heated cooking vessel then transfers heat to food, causing it to cook."​

Back to the OP's question: anyone have experience using one of these? I've been looking at this myself. The only thing that's held me back frrom buying one is the 220V/30A outlet needed.

audger said:

they also dont mention the fact that for every 10 watts of power you pull from the wall, only maybe 4 to 6 of those watts end up actaully heating the water. so if that pulls 3500 watts from the wall, that is about equivalent in performance to a 1800w immersion water heater, only twice as expensive to run.

such is an induction cooker.

Click to expand...

I worked as a test engineer for a commercial induction heating company. If induction was that inefficient the auto companies would go back to flame hardening. A standard resistance element will draw the same current with or without a pot or pan is sitting on it, an induction coil will vary the current according to the load (pot or pan) that it couples with, so when compared to a gas or electric stove top heater it is much more efficient. An immersion heater is very efficient because it is surrounded by liquid and all it's heat is transferred to the liquid.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/will-cheap-3500-watt-induction-burner-work-301722/

This has been discussed and tested over in the electric brewing section. People seem pleased with this model.

Biohazard said:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/will-cheap-3500-watt-induction-burner-work-301722/

This has been discussed and tested over in the electric brewing section. People seem pleased with this model.

Click to expand...

Yup. Read that one and many others about induction burners. One thing that surprised me was that very few if any threads were about the 3000W+ or higher induction burners. Most of the replies are about the 1800W and less powerful ones. And, very few have commented about using one for mashing--most use it for the boil in a basement without propane.

I am interested in a full-up review of this particular model is at (step) mashing AND boiling, and how folks that did so addressed the power requirement issues (extension cord or new outlet). Is it better at both than a propane burner? Or, does it work well at both but isn't worth the trouble over a good burner and the associated (outdoor) requirements of using one?

Purchased a Duxtop 1800 watt on Ebay for 49.00. Works great for an extract brewer. Used it today for the first time and I love it! It came from the manufacturer as used, but looks new. You can use temp settings or power levels.

I purchased something very similar; the brand is Max Burton. I really like it for 5g boils - full boil.
It's the 3000W model. I think the Avantco is less expensive in fact.
Yes, you do have to change your plug to what is called a standard 20amp. It was worth it for me because i brew indoors.
Called up an electrician, gave him the 2 page manual with the specs, told him which outlet i wanted him to switch, (of course it has to be a dedicated one to your fuse/breaker box) and he swapped it in less than 30 mins. Cost was reasonable for my area.
It's powerful stuff. Glad I did it. I don't have any stats but lets say to go from mash temp to boil is maybe 20 mins.
One thing though, i have no intention of going 10gallon, and i don't know how well the system would perform if someone wanted to go bigger. So scalability is a question.

Planning on buying the Avantco IC3500. I will update how I build an extension cord to adapt NEMA 14-30 plug from my dryer to the NEMA 6-20P plug on the device.

Does anyone have any pics of the best way to make the cord adaptor that was mentioned above?

Bumping this - Ercousin, anything to report on the performance of this burner & your upgrade?

B

For the setup I have shown in the picture, I can BIAB very well and it will bring nearly 5 gallons of water to a boil in less than 30 minutes from ~60F, pretty steadily ~4F/minute.

For the power questions, I already had a panel on the wall for my larger setup. I simply added a 20A breaker to the panel and ran a cord whip with the appropriate end attached.

The one negative that I have found is that although it will hold a boil perfectly at the 220F setting, it will not hold the 150F setting, instead overshooting it to approximately 165F. I currently haven't researched how it's reading the temp at all save a TC buried in the plate somewhere. I plan to do some research on this one and perhaps even see if I can control it externally, no promises.

I would say that for the money and someone looking to brew smaller batches easily without the need to mess with immersion elements, controls, and extra holes in their equipment, this is a great choice. I've been down the road of propane, natural gas, and all kinds of heating element arrangements...this is by far the easiest method to clean and use.

Cheers.
Scott

I end up cycling power throughout the mash and stirring to even out temp. I love the burner.

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10g pot

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