ebay aquarium temp controller build

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For people who have built everything into a box, what did you do for strain relief on the main power cord and temperature probe cable?

Cable clamp, used for installing electrical cable through breaker boxes, would be the proper way to do it:

elwkbn08.JPG
 
Holy hell this is a long thread. It's going to take me a week to read thru it. :drunk:

you don't need to read the whole thing. everything is pretty much laid out in the first few pages. after that is really is just a lot of repeated questions/answers, people buying wrong or bad units, etc, etc.
 
I should probably be able to figure this out from the info in this thread but I'm totally out of my element.
I had an old mini-fridge in my garage not in use.
I adapted it into a fermentation chamber using mostly materials I had on hand plus an stc-1000 and some polystyrene insulation from HD. It's working great but I want to add a small PC fan to help circulate air.
I mounted the temp control in the side of the mini-fridge and wired it into the existing wiring inside the unit replacing the thermostat with the cool switch circuit on the controller. I'm not using the heat circuit at this time (might add a small heater of some kind in the future).

How, specifically, do I wire a 12v PC fan into the circuit to switch on during cooling? I would like to use a power adapter to adapt and slow the fan (theres a huge bow of them for $.50/piece at the thrift store)

It is wired like this and working great.
1=hot
2=neutral
3-4=probe
5-6(heat)=not used
7-8(cool)=wires from fridge thermostat
 
The best way to wire in a 12V fan (I have one running also) is to wire an outlet/receptacle to the cooling relay, wire the fan to a wall wart or similar adapter (something between 9 and 12 volts would work best), and just plug it in.
 
The best way to wire in a 12V fan (I have one running also) is to wire an outlet/receptacle to the cooling relay, wire the fan to a wall wart or similar adapter (something between 9 and 12 volts would work best), and just plug it in.

Or you could just plug one of these guys into the cool outlet instead of wiring up a new outlet.

31bbSLdVXvL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
The best way to wire in a 12V fan (I have one running also) is to wire an outlet/receptacle to the cooling relay, wire the fan to a wall wart or similar adapter (something between 9 and 12 volts would work best), and just plug it in.

This. I prefer running all the time. But if you really only want it on with cooling just don't break the jumper on the plug, leave the "heating circuit" unwired and plug a wall wart into the second outlet. They will both turn on when the "cooling circuit" turns on.
 
bovineblitz said:
Or you could just plug one of these guys into the cool outlet instead of wiring up a new outlet.

Well, yeah. Same idea. The way he described it though, I wasn't sure he even wired ANY outlet for cooling.
 
i didn't use any receptacles. I just replaced the mini-fridge thermostat with the stc-1000. I guess that doesn't keep me from wiring a single receptacle for the fan. any way to wire it directly into the circuit?
 
i didn't use any receptacles. I just replaced the mini-fridge thermostat with the stc-1000. I guess that doesn't keep me from wiring a single receptacle for the fan. any way to wire it directly into the circuit?

You could sacrifice a 120 VAC to 12 VDC wall wort to power the fan off the compressor power source.
 
This. I prefer running all the time. But if you really only want it on with cooling just don't break the jumper on the plug, leave the "heating circuit" unwired and plug a wall wart into the second outlet. They will both turn on when the "cooling circuit" turns on.

Running all the time is probably the most effective use of a fan, especially for this case where the capacity of the fridge was expanded. No wiring needed prior to the transformer, just plug it in to the wall. The DC output of the transformer then just needs to be connected to the correct +/- terminals on the fan.

If you just want it to come on when the cooling comes on, things are more difficult since your "upgraded" installation is directly wired into the thermostat circuit.
i didn't use any receptacles. I just replaced the mini-fridge thermostat with the stc-1000. I guess that doesn't keep me from wiring a single receptacle for the fan. any way to wire it directly into the circuit?
Your "upgraded" installation will come in especially handy when the fridge craps out, or when you want to use the controller on another appliance. If you want the fan to come on only when the cooling circuit is active, you are probably better off cutting your losses now, and just building the standard box most others in this build have done.
 
How long ago did you order it. He has the cheapest price on there, but mixtea seems to have good reviews on here. Just keep me posted.

Update... I ordered this from Skiesmall360 last monday, 8 days later counting a long weekend and its here! so thats what I have been doing the last 2 hours, rewiring my kegerator so it wont freeze this winter!!

PS: fuction tests show it working great, Ill check it again in the morning but thats probably because im crazy like that
 
Update... I ordered this from Skiesmall360 last monday, 8 days later counting a long weekend and its here! so thats what I have been doing the last 2 hours, rewiring my kegerator so it wont freeze this winter!!

PS: fuction tests show it working great, Ill check it again in the morning but thats probably because im crazy like that

That's what I want to hear Sims. I ordered mine in the middle of last week from Skiesmall and it was shipped the next day. Hopefully it will be here by early next week.
 
That's what I want to hear Sims. I ordered mine in the middle of last week from Skiesmall and it was shipped the next day. Hopefully it will be here by early next week.

Skiesmall360 is a good seller, I received mine in Canada in about 10 business days. I'm ordering a second one!
 
Just wondering what everyone is setting the keezers to using this temp controller.

I currently have the following settings with the probe setting in a jug of water and one PC fan running at all times:
F1 = 2.2
F2 = 0.5
F3 = 10
F4 = 0

With these settings it appears that the freezer turns on for about 10 - 15 min once an hour. I have not been patient enough to stand around for more than an hour to take detailed notes.
 
Just wondering what everyone is setting the keezers to using this temp controller.

I currently have the following settings with the probe setting in a jug of water and one PC fan running at all times:
F1 = 2.2
F2 = 0.5
F3 = 10
F4 = 0

With these settings it appears that the freezer turns on for about 10 - 15 min once an hour. I have not been patient enough to stand around for more than an hour to take detailed notes.

Stick an electrical-mechanical (not digital) clock in the socket, set it at 0, and see how much it runs over a 24 hour period.

M_C
 
Misplaced_Canuck said:
Stick an electrical-mechanical (not digital) clock in the socket, set it at 0, and see how much it runs over a 24 hour period.

M_C

Hah, that's an awesome idea
 
Stick an electrical-mechanical (not digital) clock in the socket, set it at 0, and see how much it runs over a 24 hour period.

M_C

That is a great idea.. Now I need to see if I have a electrical-mechanical clock lying around. Growing up I use to have one in every room... Amazing how some technologies get replaced, without realy noticing.
 
Has anyone built or recommend building this using a GFCI outlet? Getting ready to put mine together once it comes in & was thinking about it...
 
SkyHighBrew88 said:
Has anyone built or recommend building this using a GFCI outlet? Getting ready to put mine together once it comes in & was thinking about it...

If you want to go that route, you're better off putting the gfci further "upstream", so to speak, in order to protect the entire box.

Since it just requires a typical 15A/110V, it's easy and cheap to just replace the wall outlet you're plugging into with a gfci version.

If for some reason you need a lot more portability than that (not typical for a freezer or fridge), you're still better off getting a standalone portable gfci outlet. MoreBeer sells one for about $14, but anybody capable of building a box for this controller should be capable of making their own portable gfci outlet (though it may end up costing more than just buying one) - and by having it separate from the controller box, you're not only able to protect the entire thing, but it's also much more versatile.
 
Oh ok. Yeah thanks, I don't know why I didn't think of that since I already have a GFCI outlet on the wall where the fridge will be anyway. Overthinking it I guess but I just didn't wanna get fried putting this thing together.

You're saying then that the wall outlet is sufficient protection?
 
Oh ok. Yeah thanks, I don't know why I didn't think of that since I already have a GFCI outlet on the wall where the fridge will be anyway. Overthinking it I guess but I just didn't wanna get fried putting this thing together.

You're saying then that the wall outlet is sufficient protection?

Be careful using a GFCI outlet for a frige or freezer. Some of them tend to kick the GFCI when the compressor starts due to a short surge in power. My outlet right now needs to be changed due to this exact problem, and sometimes it will work for a long periods of time, but it only takes one kick while you are gone and say goodbye to anything inside.
 
IMAG0070.jpg


Was really easy to make and works awesome. I have mine set for 40F (4.4C) with a .5C differential and 10 minute delay, only kicks on every few hours. The probe is duct taped to a gallon jug of water to help stabilize the readings.
 
Does anyone know the dimension of the project box for this build?
I have two controllers on order.
Thanks
 
That sounds about right for mine. I had to seriously modify my outlet to get it to fit on the back side. I ended up having to cut off most of the mounting tabs and then use rivets with washers to hold it in, but I like the way mine turned out.
 
so im just finishing up one of these builds for my kegerator and just had a few questions i hope you guys could help me out with.

i have the temp set at 5* C aka 40* F. Thats a good temp for a kegerator right?

i left the difference value and temp calibration at the defaualt settings. is that ok?

i set the compressor delay time at 5 mins. is that ok?

and the most important question. how did you guys make those awesome temperature chart stickers for the top of the unit?

thanks guys in advance

cheers
 
You can set the temp for whatever temp you like your beer at. Consulting a carb/temp chart will tell you what pressure to set. Colder can sometimes help compensate for foaming issues.

Diff needs to be set to something reasonable. Too small will result unnecessary cycling, and an early death of your compressor. The smaller the thermal mass your probe is on/in, the higher the diff should be.

For serving beer, a good approach is to tape then insulate (or submerge) the probe to a container full of water that is the approximate size of the smallest serving vessel under pressure regulator control. If the vessel is at least 12oz., you can set the diff to the minimum (.3C?) if you want, but .5C is more than sufficient. The smaller the diff (and thermal mass the probe is on) the more the fridge will cycle, which is bad for your compressor.

Putting the bare probe in air is bad idea with the standard probe. It is very fast responding and will kill your compressor.

Be aware that if you set the temp close to 0C, and/or place the probe in/on a large thermal mass (larger than the smallest bottle), any bottles in the kegerator may freeze and shatter.

Cal is used to correct for probe offsets. The offset can be determined by putting your probe in ice water.

Set the compressor delay to its maximum (10 or 12 minutes, I forget). The long delay should never come into play for normal temp control. If you are cycling < 10 min, you have something set up wrong. This setting will help prevent short cycling due to door openings, screwing around with the probe, etc. Short cycling can kill a compressor in less than an hour given the right conditions.
 
What tab are you supposed to remove to separate the heating and cooling?

There are no tabs on the controller itself to separate heating and cooling. If you wired heating and cooling to one duplex outlet, there are tabs connecting the respective terminals (hot and neutral) together for both outlets. Depending on how you wired it, you will need to break one or both.
 
Thanks CWI, I'm still not sure which ones to break off, so I'll try and explain where my wires run and see if you can give me a little more insight. While the outlet is facing up, I have the top left post conntected to #2 on controller, bottom left post runs to the extension cord, top right post connected to #6, and bottom right post connected to #8.
 
Thanks CWI, I'm still not sure which ones to break off, so I'll try and explain where my wires run and see if you can give me a little more insight. While the outlet is facing up, I have the top left post conntected to #2 on controller, bottom left post runs to the extension cord, top right post connected to #6, and bottom right post connected to #8.

i can't quite follow what you wrote, but look at this picture and see that brass tab between the two screws on the outlet (where the white wire is going in), the tab kinda has a little open part in the middle of it? that's the tab you need to break off on the HOT side, you can leave the neutral tab in place and just attach one neutral wire to that side.

Electric_Receptacle_20A_134_DJFs.jpg
 
i can't quite follow what you wrote, but look at this picture and see that brass tab between the two screws on the outlet (where the white wire is going in), the tab kinda has a little open part in the middle of it? that's the tab you need to break off on the HOT side, you can leave the neutral tab in place and just attach one neutral wire to that side.

Same as this:

2hgrzvt.jpg


M_C
 
i can't quite follow what you wrote, but look at this picture and see that brass tab between the two screws on the outlet (where the white wire is going in), the tab kinda has a little open part in the middle of it? that's the tab you need to break off on the HOT side, you can leave the neutral tab in place and just attach one neutral wire to that side.

That would work, if the "right" side of the outlet is the hot side, and if he is switching the HOT wire, and not the neutral. The somewhat ambiguous, but more correct, answer is the tab between the heating and cooling switched wires is what needs to be broken.

This brings up a question I posted awhile ago. Should we be switching the neutral wire? The schematic of my freezer shows that is what it switches. One guy retrofitted (removed original thermostat) a freezer and it wouldn't work switching the hot side. I think it has to do with the start capacitor not functioning correctly when switching the hot. That, and if the freezer has one (cap) or not, and also needs it to help start because the motor is worn out.
 
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