Bayou Classic Brew Kettle?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I've used Bayou pots for years brewing. They aren't as stout as a lot of the more expensive pots and mine don't have the thick triple clad bottoms. But they will allow you to make fantastic beer in a pot that's cheaper than most.
Cheers
 
This one is tri-clad as far as I can tell, but I can't seem to find the wall thickness. I'd like to know how thick the SS is. I'll probably still get it anyway even if it's thinner SS, but I'd like to know what I'm getting. I can't seem to find the information.

EDIT: Found the wall thickness. It's .8MM 20 gauge. It's pretty thin, but it still seems like a great deal.
 
I got all my pots before they offered these, I wish they'd have had these when I first started. I'm guessing you won't have any issues with them, probably wouldn't be a real good idea to try and move them when they are full though.
 
With these new Bayou Classic pots, the false bottom sits at about the 2-gallon mark. That seems like a lot of water below the grain if you mash in this pot. Would this be a problem? How does one need to adjust their brewing methods to account for this volume of water?

(To the original poster, I've seen the new Bayou Classic pots in person. They seem to be very nicely made. Whether or not 20 gauge is considered thick, the pots feel solid. The handles are welded. The base is clad.)
 
I'm planning to use mine as a brew pot. The false bottom would be really nice for keeping the hops out of the primary without having to use hop bags (which I hate). Then I just need to install a dip tube.

I'd really like to get a closer look at the bulkhead and the way it attaches inside. From the threads on the bazooka tube, it looks like a standard 1/2" coupling, but I can't see for sure.

Anybody know?
 
I found a better picture on google images, and it seems to be a 1/2" Coupling. I'm going to get the pot and I think I found a cheaper solution than the dip tubes I keep seeing for like $25. I am planning to buy these 2 things to make a cheap dip tube:

5/8" Hose Barb

1/2" NPT 90 Degree Elbow
 
Pretty nice little setup these are. I really think they missed the mark on the false bottom placement though. Might be ok for a boil screen for hops, but at 3-4" that seems like an awful lot of dead space for an MLT. I also wish they hadn't perpetuated the whole tri-clad bottom myth, they probably could have kept the cost down a bit by using a normal bottom.
 
What do you mean the tri-clad myth? I don't know what claims were being made about tri-clad bottoms other than that they more evenly distribute heat across the surface and reduce the chances of scorching.

I believe that's true, although I don't think it's really that much of a concern with a brew kettle as it might be with other applications.

I think on a stove top it would probably help with heat transfer, but I'm using a burner.
 
I use a bayou classic 20 gallon as my boil kettle. Works great and was a fraction of anything else I could find. As for tri clad pots, if you are using an immersion chiller it might slow chilling down a bit!
 
What do you mean the tri-clad myth? I don't know what claims were being made about tri-clad bottoms other than that they more evenly distribute heat across the surface and reduce the chances of scorching.

I believe that's true, although I don't think it's really that much of a concern with a brew kettle as it might be with other applications.

I think on a stove top it would probably help with heat transfer, but I'm using a burner.

The myth that they provide any benefit with regards to homebrewing. You'll find them on stock pots to prevent of scorching of viscous sauces and the like. When boiling wort you have enough natural convection that scorching is not a concern. Better heat distribution? Maybe, but I don't believe there is a tangible benefit there.

I imagine the application of them in homebrewing is simply because so many homebrew "kettles" are merely re-purposed stock pots. Look at products that were developed specifically for homebrewers, the Boilermaker, Stout, Penrose, you won't find tri-clad bottoms because they provide no real benefit for the extra cost involved.

Bottom line, I definitely don't think they hurt, unless you consider the possible negative effect on cooling with an IC. My initial reaction in my original comment was that they could have brought the price down a bit by forgoing the tri-clad bottom.
 
I've been using an 8 gallon Bayou Classic Kettle with a ball valve with absolutely no problems, there isn't a problem lifting it when it is full either.
I spent under $120.00 delivered.
I'd rather use these kettles, save the extra cash and brew!
 
Markd27 said:
The myth that they provide any benefit with regards to homebrewing. You'll find them on stock pots to prevent of scorching of viscous sauces and the like. When boiling wort you have enough natural convection that scorching is not a concern. Better heat distribution? Maybe, but I don't believe there is a tangible benefit there.

Not to perpetuate the myth, but as the king of brewing screw-ups I've definitely had burner scorch marks on the bottom of my brew pot. They're minor and didn't affect the flavor as far as I could tell (no thick, charred wort coating my pot like poorly cooked oatmeal), but it's still something I have to scrub off.

Regarding the pots - I've seen some negative reviews of rust issues with the buyou classic pots on amazon. If you take good care of the equipment it shouldn't be a problem (e.g. Not leaving it wet or storing it outside).
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I just bought and returned a BC 44 qt pot due to a pin hole in the side. Looked to be a manufacturing defect. Fortunately, I got it Amazon prime, so returning was not an issue even though I had already drilled a 7/8" hole for a valve.
Besides the pin hole the pot appeared to be decent quality for the price ($84) and I imagine my experience is a rare case. I will probably give them a try again.
 
Look at products that were developed specifically for homebrewers, the Boilermaker, Stout, Penrose, you won't find tri-clad bottoms because they provide no real benefit for the extra cost involved.

Bottom line, I definitely don't think they hurt, unless you consider the possible negative effect on cooling with an IC. My initial reaction in my original comment was that they could have brought the price down a bit by forgoing the tri-clad bottom.

I think you just explained why those companies forgo the triclad bottoms. Home brewing is often such a price competitive market that cost is almost the primary deal maker/breaker. If they three pots you listed above had tri-clad bottoms they cost would be even higher. And they already carry premium price tags.

I think that if they raised the prices even higher they would get a complete fallout on sales. After all, people can't see or touch the triclad bottoms and it doesn't create a capability that you cannot do on a non-triclad pot like say a spigot or a thermometer. And they look just like regular pots. BUt...I have found that triclads are more efficient in reaching temp and are more forgiving with liquid extract (if you want to squeeze in that extract kit that your brother-in-law gave you for the holidays).

Yes, you will be fine with either, but if you are getting to this price range, the tri-clad will preform better.
 
Back
Top