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kmat123

kmat123

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We recently upgraded our system to HERMS and screwing and unscrewing the worm clamps holding onto our hoses is tedious. I've used the search function to check out what people are using for quick disconnects and it seems like the brass ones at McMaster Carr are a popular choice, but we have also been checking out the ProFlow dyanamics SS camlocks. I'm sure there are other options out there as well. For those of you with quick disconnects in your system which ones do you prefer and why? Thanks!
 
I use the McMaster-Carr QDs with the tubing clamped on to the barbs with zip ties. Works like a charm:

Silicone_Tubing.jpg
 
Why zip ties and not use regular hose clamps? Just curious...my brass Mcmaster QD's are being delivered today.
 
Can you guys throw up the part number of the QD's from Mcmaster Carr that everyone is using. Thanks in advance.
 
When I built my brewframe about a year ago, I used the McMaster-Carr brass disconnects.

I recently changed all my fittings over to the stainless steel Camlocks from ProFlow Dynamics. The camlocks have a larger interior diameter allowing greater flow rates. They do not react to any chemicals, are less expensive than the McMaster-Carr QDs and just look cooler;)

Here is my rig with the McMaster-Carr QDs:

Brewstand_HLT.JPG


Here it is about a year later with the Camlocks:

brewframe_upgrade.JPG


Here is a link to some more reviews (with better pictures) of the Camlocks

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/stainless-camlocks-review-158649
 
For the same price as the brass QDs from McMaster-Carr, you can get full port 1/2" QDs from a lot of other vendors. I went with PPE because they shipped to Canada by USPS (cheap, no duty/brokerage).

http://www.ppe.com/10cat/0411.pdf

I like the 1/2" fittings because you get a little better flow out of them than the smaller 3/8" fittings.

13869d1260902548-source-stainless-steel-quick-disconnects-qds.jpg
 
I just ordered from PPE, but I'm a little disappointed ... they don't give you tax & shipping costs before checkout ... I went ahead anyway ... my order was $54.60 for raw product and the next day my debit card was billed almost $30 more ... I've also received no status update on my order after the initial order confirmation ... it's been 3 or 4 days

FlyGuy said:
For the same price as the brass QDs from McMaster-Carr, you can get full port 1/2" QDs from a lot of other vendors. I went with PPE because they shipped to Canada by USPS (cheap, no duty/brokerage).

http://www.ppe.com/10cat/0411.pdf

I like the 1/2" fittings because you get a little better flow out of them than the smaller 3/8" fittings.

13869d1260902548-source-stainless-steel-quick-disconnects-qds.jpg
Click to expand...
 
I refuse to order from anywhere that can't give me a shipping quote and final price with tax and shipping before I give them my CC number. A good deal is worthless if they're hiding behind exaggerated shipping. I was going to go with ppe as well until I saw this on their site.
 
IrregularPulse said:
I refuse to order from anywhere that can't give me a shipping quote and final price with tax and shipping before I give them my CC number. A good deal is worthless if they're hiding behind exaggerated shipping. I was going to go with ppe as well until I saw this on their site.
Click to expand...

I don't think McMaster-Carr gives you the shipping quote before shipping, either, but it's always been cheap (actual shipping) so I haven't had any issues. (I don't think there was sales tax at McMaster-Carr either, but I could be wrong about that)>
 
Well, yes, in the case of Mcmaster you can rest easy. They seem to have negotiated bulk rates with Fedex and UPS that are lower than anyone else and they don't charge for handling. They WILL quote you shipping if you ask but it's not a part of their online system.
 
so, the brass will react with chemicals... which chemicals? (not a chemist... i have poly QD's and would sell them and replace with something cheaper, if the cheaper option is just as good.
 
dcbeerboy said:
so, the brass will react with chemicals... which chemicals? (not a chemist... i have poly QD's and would sell them and replace with something cheaper, if the cheaper option is just as good.
Click to expand...

Brass parts contain small amounts of lead that can supposedly leach out when in contact with an acidic solution (say beer wort). Nobody really knows how much lead is actually leached, but there is an easy treatment you can do if you are concerned (see link). Honestly, I wouldn't bother for QDs. I did it for brass parts that comprise my dip-tube in my keggle, just because they stay in contact with the wort for an extended period of time.

http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixB.html

Why sell the poly QD just to switch to something cheaper? You already spent the money so its a sunk cost for you at this point. Between the time spent selling old/buying new, and the hit in price you'll take by selling those QDs used, do you really think you'll come out ahead?
 
As of 4/2010, (at least in California) ALL brass fittings available retail can not contain any lead. It has cost businesses 100s of millions of $s in stock. Ask any hardware store about this change.

Matt
 
broadbill said:
Brass parts contain small amounts of lead that can supposedly leach out when in contact with an acidic solution (say beer wort). Nobody really knows how much lead is actually leached, but there is an easy treatment you can do if you are concerned (see link). Honestly, I wouldn't bother for QDs. I did it for brass parts that comprise my dip-tube in my keggle, just because they stay in contact with the wort for an extended period of time.

http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixB.html

Why sell the poly QD just to switch to something cheaper? You already spent the money so its a sunk cost for you at this point. Between the time spent selling old/buying new, and the hit in price you'll take by selling those QDs used, do you really think you'll come out ahead?
Click to expand...


well, i've inadvertently cross-threaded two of the DQ's, so they're all wonky when attached. if i need to detach and reattach, it'll just get worse.
 
wildwest450 said:
And the best part of all, they will empty your wallet in a heartbeat. Why is better always 5 times more money?


.
Click to expand...

If you weld in ferrules rather than welding in a pipe fitting and then buying an adapter, it isn't that much more expensive.

B3 has a 1.5 ferrule, clamp and 1.5" to barb for $36
 
I have plastic ones, tri-clover, and even hose push-to-connects (which are really cool).

I mulled getting the ProFlow,etc.... but it came down to that there was only one that was sexually androgynous- Tri-clover.

I am a little nuts with using the same parts for multiple uses (which makes me clean them more, a win for sanitation) and the only way to do that and not go completely nuts making sure you had the female of this going to the male of that, etc., was to just go tri-clover. Everything was simpler after that and my brain feels better. Yes it was very expensive, but I don't care if it lasts a lifetime.
 
ScottishPete said:
I just ordered from PPE, but I'm a little disappointed ... they don't give you tax & shipping costs before checkout ... I went ahead anyway ... my order was $54.60 for raw product and the next day my debit card was billed almost $30 more ... I've also received no status update on my order after the initial order confirmation ... it's been 3 or 4 days
Click to expand...

Not sure why your shipping was so much -- mine came all the way to Canada for under $20 by USPS. I phoned in my order and they were more than happy to tell me my shipping options and provide shipping quotes.
 
SankePankey said:
I have plastic ones, tri-clover, and even hose push-to-connects (which are really cool).

I mulled getting the ProFlow,etc.... but it came down to that there was only one that was sexually androgynous- Tri-clover.

I am a little nuts with using the same parts for multiple uses (which makes me clean them more, a win for sanitation) and the only way to do that and not go completely nuts making sure you had the female of this going to the male of that, etc., was to just go tri-clover. Everything was simpler after that and my brain feels better. Yes it was very expensive, but I don't care if it lasts a lifetime.
Click to expand...

You're the second person to state this as an advantage but I'm yet to figure out where it sits practically. My hoses have female, things that get hoses connected to them have the males. It works out that the cheaper component of the two is in more numbers. Given that, when would I ever want to try coupling male to male or female to female?
 
Bobby_M said:
. Given that, when would I ever want to try coupling male to male or female to female?
Click to expand...

Hey man. There's nothing wrong with that... wherever you get your kicks...


OK, so I fill the fermenter from the kettle, pitch my starter, krauesen/top crop, bottom crop, and fill kegs all with the same tri clover fittings and piece of hose. That's quite a nightmare in trying to make sure things have their appropriate sexual mate- the way god intended.

Also, I can then more easily make daisy chains where I put the beer filter in between the fermenter and the 3 kegs I'm filling. I also have an in line aerator on tri-clamps that I can use as an in line carbonator... etc. I think you can get my drift. It was too much for me to think about. It became ridiculous to make sure there wasn't an Adam and Steve in there somewhere.

What makes this all possible for me are my custom welds I got done by brewers hardware. They're ball lock posts welded to a TC cap. Shortest and most threadless route in and out of a keg to all my other TC stuff.
 
Bobby_M said:
You're the second person to state this as an advantage but I'm yet to figure out where it sits practically. My hoses have female, things that get hoses connected to them have the males. It works out that the cheaper component of the two is in more numbers. Given that, when would I ever want to try coupling male to male or female to female?
Click to expand...

It is possible that you never need to do anything other than connect a hose to something that isn't a hose. It is also possible that you don't consider some options because your choice of connection makes them impossible.

I currently connect a pump directly to the boil kettle via tri-clamp. I am considering changing my set up such that a hose will be in between. I do not have to change any fittings to do this so that is one example.

It might not be a huge advantage. I think the primary advantage is how easy they are to clean.

They can also support a lot of weight but like the male/female thing that may or may not be advantageous in your set up.

And again, every claim about their cost seems to assume you weld in a pipe fitting and then buy a tri clamp adapter. If you weld in ferrules and buy barb adapters it isn't that much more than welding in pipe fittings and buying camlock QDs.

End of the day, there are a lot of good solutions and very few bad ones so who cares.
 
Does anyone use a QD to connect their garden hose to their plate chiller? Does a garden hose QD coupler even exist? http://ppe.com/ has tons and tons of stuff listed, but I haven't been able to find what I'm looking for, but that page may even be dated since they don't list the PDF that I got my couplers from ( http://www.ppe.com/10cat/0411.pdf )

Thanks
Pete
 
The local home hardware huts sell plastic and brass garden hose QDs. I use the plastic ones for all my garden hose stuff, but you do have remember to take them off if you're going to boil or bake your chiller.:)
 

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