Dry Hopping & Cold Crashing (Timing & Temp)

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brewmathew

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I have 5 gallons of a black IPA which has been in the primary for 7 days. I am a fairly new brewer (about 8 extract recipes) and my typical process has been to leave in the primary for 3 weeks, which takes out the doubt of whether fermentation is complete and reduces checking gravity too often which could add infections.

In any case, the recipe calls for dry hopping which I plan to do for 7 days and I also want to cold crash this beer, which will be new to me. The help I am looking for is:

- Do I dry hop once FG is reached or do I dry hop when bubbling has slowed but still active to make sure head space is filled back in with C02? By the way the OG is 1.070. I also do not want to end up with dry hopping complete only to find out I am still way off my FG targets.

- If I plan to dry hop for 7 days before racking, should it be 1) 5 days fermenting temp plus 2 cold crashing days or 2) 7 days fermenting temp plus an additional 2 cold crashing days.

- I temp control at about 67 for the entire fermentation schedule. My garage is in the high 50's to low 60's. When I dry hop should I keep the temp control on or adjust the temp at all? My plan is to cold crash in my keezer at 42 degrees.

I have searched the forums on this one and I am still confused on scheduling.
 
- With that OG I would wait at least 10-15 days before dry hop, there would be enough CO2 escaping beer to fill head space so no need to worry.

- I don't see huge difference between 5 and 7 days, 7 could be the one if you have big hops bill.. your call.

- I usually dry hop @starting temperature which is few degrees lower than fermentation temp., but it's not that big deal as long temps. don't go wild.

..my 2¢..
 
Always dryhop right before packaging. If you're planning on bottling next Tuesday, as an example, you can dryhop 5-7 days beforehand. That will give you the best flavor and aroma. Any cold crashing should be done before hand, and it works best if the beer is clear (or at least fairly clear) before dryhopping as hops oils can cling to yeast and fall out of suspension when the yeast falls out.
 
Any cold crashing should be done before hand, and it works best if the beer is clear (or at least fairly clear) before dryhopping as hops oils can cling to yeast and fall out of suspension when the yeast falls out.


So cold crash,then return to regular temp to dry hop for seven days. So cold crash before dry hopping?
 
Even among commercial brewers you will find dryhop temperatures that vary. For instance, Russian River dry hops in the low 50's because they use wlp001 and it flocs out at those temps. Firestone Walker on the other hand dryhops in the mid 60's, probably to get faster extraction. I believe they use English yeast that flocs like a brick anyway so they might be ok with the yeast not picking up the oil. Both brewers push out excellent IPA's with nice aromas in Pliny and Union/Double Jack (which are both underrated IMO). I believe that dryhop extraction will be slow at sub 50F temps so my only advice in temps would be to keep it above 50F and probably under 70F.

I also don't cold crash in the primary. Only because I'm anal about oxygen pickup and cold crashing in a carboy will introduce oxygen due to suckback. People argue that the amount is negligible but I see it as one less avenue where my beer is exposed to oxygen. The hops will all settle out anyway so coldcrashing after dryhopping isn't absolutely necessary. That said, tons of people do this, but again, I'm probably a little too anal about unnecessary oxygen pickup.
 
I think I am going to skip cold crashing, then dry hop at the two week mark for 7 additional days. Then check gravity to make sure I can rack.
 
I think I am going to skip cold crashing, then dry hop at the two week mark for 7 additional days. Then check gravity to make sure I can rack.

That's sort of reversed. Check gravity first. Once it's stable, and the beer is clear, you can rack to a carboy if you are doing so. Then, 7 days before packaging, dryhop and then bottle. You always check the gravity to ensure fermentation is finished before proceeding onto dryhopping and bottling.
 
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