Best IPA and tecnique

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samg

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I've made 2 batches of beer to date and while they were ok, they were rushed and I'm sure could have been better.

So, I'm going to do an other, but do it properly now, on the advice from you guys!

I'm after doing something quite mild and light, a IPA really. What would everyone recommend? Also, the best process to brew the particular beer would be good.

Last time, we upped the temp (to the max the instructions said) to brew it quickly, but I now understand it should be so slow and steady.
 
For mild and light you probably want something along the lines of a blonde or a cream ale.

As for your question about an IPA, check out the Recipies section. Many good recipes to choose from. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f69/ some of the all grain ones even contain extract versions. Also, is there a particular IPA you enjoy enough that you want to make a similar recipe? Do you want a more malt forward, or dry IPA?
 
I mostly drink local ales, so Rebellion IPA is a big one.

Just after something not too heavy or dark.

I'll take a look at the recipes, thanks.
 
If you use specialty grains for an extract IPA, I may recommend first wort hopping. Add the bitterring hops to the boil kettle when you put the grain bag in the water. Make sure not to put the hops in the grain bag, you want them to stay in the water for the boil. This will smooth out the bitterness, and from what I've seen a lot of people tend to first wort hop their hoppy ipas and pale ales.
 
samg said:
I'm after doing something quite mild and light, a IPA really. What would everyone recommend? Also, the best process to brew the particular beer would be good.

Last time, we upped the temp (to the max the instructions said) to brew it quickly, but I now understand it should be so slow and steady.
Click to expand...

Well I don't think of IPA's as "mild and light"... in fact I would say the opposite.

You could brew a English Mild (AKA: a Northern Brown Ale) or you could brew as suggested a Kolsch, Cream Ale, or my favorites for this time of year (English Summer Ale or Wheat Beer).

I would not worry about you "SPEED" as long as you followed the process, and you wrote it down so in a year you can refresh your memory...

Some ALES can be brewed and in the keg in less thatn two weeks others more...It usually depends on the gravity; the lower the gravity the faster it finishes...

My 5% ABV (plus) beers spend at least 3 weeks fermenting and then kegged at least two weeks (times vary depending on the style) but I have served beers 17 days from when I made them (force carbonated in a keg).

I say:
  • Learn what flavors you like
  • Figure out what grains and hops produce those flavors
  • Brew the beer (just go for it)
  • Modify it the next time if needed...

I mean everything you brew will come out BEER and most likely be drinkable. Even the stufff you don't like someone will.

Dialing it in to be perfect (If you care) just takes doing it again...

HOW I DID...
After brewing extract for 10 years I went all grain. (I made good beer this way)
I had been doing it long enough that when I bought the MAG How to Brew's 250 clone recipes I could read the recipe and sort of figure out what it tasted like.

That and I brewed some of these beers and got a baseline and then change them...

Happy rewing...

DPB



Happy Brewing.
 
I know what the answer will be! But, is there any good kits out there? As we're just starting out, I'd like to keep it simple for now, and get to grips with basics, before having to boil up etc.
 
samg said:
I know what the answer will be! But, is there any good kits out there? As we're just starting out, I'd like to keep it simple for now, and get to grips with basics, before having to boil up etc.
Click to expand...

Northern Brewer's Dead Ringer IPA. It's a Bell's Two Hearted clone. Use the wy1272 or wlp051 yeast, pitch a good sized starter and ferment cool. it makes a great IPA.
 
Not available in the UK.

Anyone got any recommendations for a UK kit?
 
Andrikos said:
This is quite a clue that you are from the U.K.
Have you had any American IPAs? ;)
Click to expand...

eh? I can't fine that product in the UK, its sold in the states.

IPA isn't exclusively sold in the UK...
 
the AA % is the bitterness addition from the hops. Since hops are plants their AA% changes from year to year. To get the same # of IBU's you adjust the amount of hops up or down depending on the difference of your current hops. For example, if you had a 8% AA hop and the recipe called for a 6% AA hop you would use 3/4 of the amount to get the same bitterness.
 
DrunkleJon said:
the AA % is the bitterness addition from the hops. Since hops are plants their AA% changes from year to year. To get the same # of IBU's you adjust the amount of hops up or down depending on the difference of your current hops. For example, if you had a 8% AA hop and the recipe called for a 6% AA hop you would use 3/4 of the amount to get the same bitterness.
Click to expand...

Thanks, but I need a full on guide I think.

Happy to give a proper go at it, but need it all explaining to me!
 
This as well

http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Amarillo_Hops_100g.html#a207492

Starting to understand the process:

mix the DME and the crystal for 20 minutes @ 160
Then add 1.5lbs (8%AA) and boil for 60 minutes
Then add 1lbs (8%AA) 15 minutes before end
Then add 1lbs (8%AA) 5 minutes before end
Then add 1.5lbs (8%AA) and turn heat off
Cool in a ice bath
scoop hops out

Add to (3.5gallons of water already in fermenter)
Add yeast and close fermenter

Obviously sterilising everything before hand etc
 
samg said:
This as well

http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Amarillo_Hops_100g.html#a207492

Starting to understand the process:

mix the DME and the crystal for 20 minutes @ 160
Then add 1.5lbs (8%AA) and boil for 60 minutes
Then add 1lbs (8%AA) 15 minutes before end
Then add 1lbs (8%AA) 5 minutes before end
Then add 1.5lbs (8%AA) and turn heat off
Cool in a ice bath
scoop hops out

Add to (3.5gallons of water already in fermenter)
Add yeast and close fermenter

Obviously sterilising everything before hand etc
Click to expand...

Andrikos said:
http://www.howtobrew.com/intro.html

Here you go.
Have fun!
Click to expand...

I'd read the book linked in Andrikos post first. It'll give you a basic grasp of home brewing.
 
samg said:
This as well

http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Amarillo_Hops_100g.html#a207492

Starting to understand the process:

mix the DME and the crystal for 20 minutes @ 160
Then add 1.5lbs (8%AA) and boil for 60 minutes
Then add 1lbs (8%AA) 15 minutes before end
Then add 1lbs (8%AA) 5 minutes before end
Then add 1.5lbs (8%AA) and turn heat off
Cool in a ice bath
scoop hops out

Add to (3.5gallons of water already in fermenter)
Add yeast and close fermenter

Obviously sterilising everything before hand etc
Click to expand...

I hope those are ounces of hops and not pounds. 5 pounds of hops would be ridiculous and wasteful unless you are making a ~80 Gallon batch.

If those directions are correct, you can ignore the AA values if you want, they are included for calculating bitterness and repeatability. The AA is just a figure saying how much Alpha Acid bitterness is included. This is most important for formulating recipes and since you are currently just starting the AA is not as much of an issue as long as you use the hop from the recipe.

Additionally Hops are antiseptic (part of the reason we use them) and they can be put straight into the beer. Actually anything that touches the beer before cooling only needs to be cleaned not sterilized. Sanitize everything else.
 
DrunkleJon said:
I hope those are ounces of hops and not pounds. 5 pounds of hops would be ridiculous and wasteful unless you are making a ~80 Gallon batch.

If those directions are correct, you can ignore the AA values if you want, they are included for calculating bitterness and repeatability. The AA is just a figure saying how much Alpha Acid bitterness is included. This is most important for formulating recipes and since you are currently just starting the AA is not as much of an issue as long as you use the hop from the recipe.

Additionally Hops are antiseptic (part of the reason we use them) and they can be put straight into the beer. Actually anything that touches the beer before cooling only needs to be cleaned not sterilized. Sanitize everything else.
Click to expand...
Yes, sorry oz's not lb's!

I'll obviously read up, but my instructions are the bare steps? Same for the 4 ingredients I've listed? This is for my fathers day gift, so need to order now, I can look into methods over the next few days.
 
Pretty bare, but sufficient.

Steep the crystal grains in the 160 degree water (make a tea) and then remove grains, bring to a boil, take off the heat, add DME (take off the heat so you do not boil over)
Then bring back to a boil. Once it is going, add the 60 min hops watch for boilover, 45 minutes later add the 15 min addition, wait 10 mins add the 5 minute, wait the 5, turn off heat and add your flameout hops. Ice bath and stir to cool faster. I find if you can get the pot off the floor of your sink in the ice bath you will cool even quicker.

I usually instead of scooping out the hops just pour it through one of those 5 gallon bucket paint strainers into the fermenter. Then top off to the 5-5.5 gallon level take OG if you have a hydrometer (highly reccomended) and then add yeast (hydrated per package directions), seal up and ferment within the specified range of the yeast (shoot for ambient temp at about 5 degrees low for the first few days at least).

Ignore where the directions say that you wait X days then transfer to secondary then wait Y days before bottling. Most of us here skip secondary unless prolonged aging on oak/fruit/etc and you really do not want to take it off the yeast until the SG of the beer is steady. Once the gravity is the same over 3 days you can package as directed.
 
Perfect thanks. Nice and clear.

I'll get all this ordered up.

Quick Q: The malts on the site I'm using say 4-6 EBC, where as the recipe says 40. Problem?

ETA: Found a 40L :)
 
So we done it, too 3 hours in all, after us debating methods etc. But it smelt good and looks great too.

It was put in the FV at 8:30pm last night with a OG of 1.037 @ 17degrees. We stirred it up when we put the water in, then chucked the yeast in and sealed it up.

But, upon review this morning, its visible from the outside that the boil is settling to the bottom. I've read a few differences of opinions of stirring it now, especially as the yeast is in it.

Thoughts?
 
Quick Q. It's been in the FV for 4 weeks now, and currently looks like this. It still seems far too cloudy to bottle, yet the OG readings are not changing.

Do I just bottle it and have a cloudy beer, or is there something I need to do, to clear it?

image.jpg
 

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