How to bottle lager & reseed with yeast?

Howdy,
I've been lagering a Munich Dunkel for 2 months and fancy bottling this weekend. The one I did last winter was great, but as flat as a witches t*t.
So I fancy reseeding this one as I prime it, but have never done so before. The original yeast was white labs, which has all gone now, so to save on buying another feel like using dry yeast instead. A few questions come to mind:
-Its only 19L, how much yeast would I need to ensure a good carbonation takes place?
-Would you use as much sugar as the carbonation calculators suggest - or will it need less?
-With dry yeast, do you just rehydrate as if you were about to pitch it - i.e no starter needed?
-Will it need to go back to the cold again, after the usual few days warm? (I'm sure I read John Palmer somewhere saying it didn't need further cold)
Thanks in advance.

A few question,
On the first one how long did you let it carb for before you started drinking it?
Whats the ABV of your second one?
How do/did you prime them?

I would melt your priming sugar, use what your calculator tells you, in some water and add your dry yeast to re-hydrate. Then add your Dunkel and bottle. No need to put in the cold again.

Hi Bob,
Its pretty heavy, 7.7% - I know thats not really to style, but I only get to brew 1 or 2 per year so I make it to last a while.
I always leave the bottles for a minimum of 4-6 wks before I try to drink them, a bit longer for stuff this strong - although last years was nearer 5-6% I think? I prime with plain white table sugar.
Thanks for the process advice, I cant decide how much yeast is enough - based on one packet usually being enough to ferment this volume I'm thinking about a quater of a pack or less ? (packs here are around 11grams).
Thanks.

Don't use table sugar it is more complex and beer yeast can't break it down all the way. That is why it was flat. You need to use corn sugar it is 100% fermentable.

You can use table sugar, or corn sugar. That's not an issue at all. It certainly is 100% fermentable, and will work just fine.

To re-yeast, I've found that the most dependable way is to boil up the priming solution and normal, and cool it. Add it to the bottling bucket, and stir in about 1/3 package of nottingham dry yeast (about 3-4 grams). Stir it in well, and then simply rack the beer into it. Then bottle as usual.

Thanks Yooper your response made do some research because I was always told never use table sugar. I found a good report on sugar in brewing and I have some experimenting to do.

http://www.netplaces.com/home-brewing/ingredients-beyond-the-basic-four/sugar.htm

Awesome, thanks guys.
R.e. Corn sugar - I've always wanted to use it to see if I could gain any improvement but we just dont use it in the UK? Some folks do use brown sugar - Demerera, etc and claim it is faster carbonating. As Yooper says though, cane is always fine in my IPA's, Dubbels, etc - the problem is after long lagering, when much of the yeast drops out and hence poor carbonation results. Nottingham is easy to find, I'll try that. Cheers.

Yooper said:

To re-yeast, I've found that the most dependable way is to boil up the priming solution and normal, and cool it. Add it to the bottling bucket, and stir in about 1/3 package of nottingham dry yeast (about 3-4 grams). Stir it in well, and then simply rack the beer into it. Then bottle as usual.

Click to expand...

I tried this with my latest batch. I just got one side effect: I have a yeast ring at the fluid line in each bottle. Obviously it's not a problem with taste, just doesn't look too cool. It's my first time ever to use a dry yeast so perhaps I didn't hydrate properly. I just stirred it well into the cooled priming solution. So here are my questions:

1) Did I not hydrate the dry yeast properly?

2) Would a judge in a beer competition count off for a ring around the inside of the bottle neck?

Brown sugar is just white cane with molassas. It would not ferment any faster just maybe not as slow as DME.

BrewerDon said:

I tried this with my latest batch. I just got one side effect: I have a yeast ring at the fluid line in each bottle. Obviously it's not a problem with taste, just doesn't look too cool. It's my first time ever to use a dry yeast so perhaps I didn't hydrate properly. I just stirred it well into the cooled priming solution. So here are my questions:

1) Did I not hydrate the dry yeast properly?

2) Would a judge in a beer competition count off for a ring around the inside of the bottle neck?

Click to expand...

Sorry to hear that Don, this method worked pretty well for me - although I did hydrate the yeast seperately and then combine with the priming sugar when I as ready to bottle. I think you're right about the hydrate.
To answer the other question, yes - those people love to find fault

You only need 20% of the original yeast volume used from what I've read somewhere.