My turkey fryer crapped out on me; need a new one

CDbrews · Sep 22, 2009

I had a cheapy that i got for free and would take forever to get a boil going, this past saturday i couldnt even get 6.5 gallons to a proper boil so i think its time for a new one.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to which burner/turkey fryer i should get? Money is not a huge issue as most are relatively priced and i really want to cut down on how long it takes stuff to get to a boil. thanks for the sugggestions :mug:

Also i am only doing five gal batches but would like to step it up to ten gal... so keep that in mind with recomendations
thanks again

GilaMinumBeer · Sep 22, 2009

Why not just clean or replace the burner casting.

Or better yet, clean your existing casting and get a new regulator?

Catt22 · Sep 22, 2009

Turkey fryer type burners are incredibly simple devices. There's not a whole lot that can malfunction. Which one do you currently have? I'd try to fix the one you have rather than buy another. If you are set on buying a new one, I can recommend the Bayou Classic SQ-14. I have one and it does everything I need it to do and it does it well.

Pappers_ · Sep 22, 2009

+ 1 on the Bayou sq-14. Plus I like the big square base that the burner is mounted on.

CDbrews · Sep 22, 2009

It is a king cooker model not sure which one but it was never used before i got it and it has never worked quite right... ill try cleanin it for sure and maybe a new regulator, and i was looking at the sq-14 if i do end up buying one. thanks a lot

Yankeehillbrewer · Sep 22, 2009

I use an SQ14 as well and it does do a good job, but if your looking to step up to 10g batches you might consider the Banjo as well.

pjj2ba · Sep 22, 2009

First off, make sure the valve is closed before opening the tank. If the valve is open when the tank is turned on the regulator will "lock up" and you'll only get a small flame.

I get an occasional rust build up inside my burner. I just disassemble it and take a wire brush to it and reassemble. Also make sure nothing in blocking the air inlet.

IrregularPulse · Sep 22, 2009

agreed, Not a lot of working parts to go wrong. It's most likely a setup issue that you will also have with a new one.

JoeMama · Sep 22, 2009

+1 to the newer burners suggested here. I havent touched my turkey fryer since I got my new burner. I think I picked it up for around $100 and it brings my 5 gallon boils to a ROARING boil (even too much of one if I dont watch it) I may get a banjo someday when I decide to go to 10 gallon batches, but this burner does the trick for me!

Also, you may want to look at williamsbrewing as they have BIGGER kettles there (with a ball valve) Im loving mine

-Me

bendavanza · Sep 22, 2009

I had to clean out my cheapo burner recently as well, you don't see how much crud/rust is there until you unscrew it.

BargainFittings · Sep 22, 2009

Insects nest in the holes. Check for that.

Nova5 · Sep 23, 2009

pjj2ba said:
First off, make sure the valve is closed before opening the tank. If the valve is open when the tank is turned on the regulator will "lock up" and you'll only get a small flame.

I get an occasional rust build up inside my burner. I just disassemble it and take a wire brush to it and reassemble. Also make sure nothing in blocking the air inlet.

Unlikley is the Reg doing that, more possible its the Tanks OPD float slamming shut. regs just lower the incoming pressure. To fix it just turn the valve off on the tank. shut off the burners valve. now open the TANK valve. Next open and light the burner. Should have good flame this time.

Catt22 · Sep 23, 2009

Nova5 said:
Unlikley is the Reg doing that, more possible its the Tanks OPD float slamming shut. regs just lower the incoming pressure.

IIRC, there are two separate safety features on most of the new OPD type tanks. The OPD is float operated and as its name implies, it is designed to protect against overfilling the tank by shutting off the incoming gas when the tank is full. I think it will also shut off the gas if the tank is tipped over. The second device is in the connector to the tank. This one shuts off the gas if the flow rate is too high as it would be if the supply hose was cut or burned. This valve can be tripped if you open the appliance valve before opening the tank valve which will cause a sudden rush of gas when you do open the tank valve. The fix is the same as you mentioned. Open the tank valve first, then the appliance control valve. When shutting down, close the tank valve first if you are going to remove the connector from the tank. If not, then you can simply close the appliance valve. It's prudent to close the tank valve when the burner is not in use. This goes for BBQ's and all other propane appliances.

springer · Sep 23, 2009

the new regulators do in fact have a valve in them. It lets out a very low pressure and when the reg and the line stabilize to 10psi then it opens fully. I had this problem with my new Webber grill .No matter what I did all I would get is a very small flame then it would go out. Turned out there was a slight leak on the side burner that kept shutting the valve. I tightened the hose and waited 30 seconds then it lite fine.

So if the valve is open to the burner when you turn on the tank it will think there is a leak since the pressure doesn't stabilize. Close the valve and close the tank valve and reopen it should work fine.

Nova5 · Sep 23, 2009

Catt22 said:
IIRC, there are two separate safety features on most of the new OPD type tanks. The OPD is float operated and as its name implies, it is designed to protect against overfilling the tank by shutting off the incoming gas when the tank is full. I think it will also shut off the gas if the tank is tipped over. The second device is in the connector to the tank. This one shuts off the gas if the flow rate is too high as it would be if the supply hose was cut or burned. This valve can be tripped if you open the appliance valve before opening the tank valve which will cause a sudden rush of gas when you do open the tank valve. The fix is the same as you mentioned. Open the tank valve first, then the appliance control valve. When shutting down, close the tank valve first if you are going to remove the connector from the tank. If not, then you can simply close the appliance valve. It's prudent to close the tank valve when the burner is not in use. This goes for BBQ's and all other propane appliances.

The overflow is part of the tanks design, this way if some goofball redneck opens the tank valve unconnected, it seals itself. This same mechanism will close if the tank is inverted or tipped onto its side. the new connection is a way to ensure all new tanks and grills comply with the requirements (in addition it makes it easily hand tightenable).

Nova5 · Sep 23, 2009

springer said:
the new regulators do in fact have a valve in them. It lets out a very low pressure and when the reg and the line stabilize to 10psi then it opens fully. I had this problem with my new Webber grill .No matter what I did all I would get is a very small flame then it would go out. Turned out there was a slight leak on the side burner that kept shutting the valve. I tightened the hose and waited 30 seconds then it lite fine.

So if the valve is open to the burner when you turn on the tank it will think there is a leak since the pressure doesn't stabilize. Close the valve and close the tank valve and reopen it should work fine.

Still sounds like the tanks device. Thou there very well could be more than one protection device in the line performing the same purpose to cover themselves. The tank flow is supposed to close with any indication of leaking. Though how it determines this is beyond me as a slow leak should read like usage.

johnnyc · Sep 23, 2009

Hate to ask a dumb question, but is your propane tank low? Happened to me a couple brew days ago, I was still getting a flame but just no pressure behind it.

CDbrews · Sep 23, 2009

she was sittin 3/4 full so its not that, im cleanin it out tonight and gonna try to figure it out

springer · Sep 23, 2009

Nova5 said:
Still sounds like the tanks device. Thou there very well could be more than one protection device in the line performing the same purpose to cover themselves. The tank flow is supposed to close with any indication of leaking. Though how it determines this is beyond me as a slow leak should read like usage.

I didn't know anything about the valve in the regulator until I was on the phone with Webber. The OP on the tank is only so that you can't overfill the tank while it will get stuck if there is a sudden rush of propane it usually doesn't happen.

Nova5 said:
The overflow is part of the tanks design, this way if some goofball redneck opens the tank valve unconnected, it seals itself. This same mechanism will close if the tank is inverted or tipped onto its side. the new connection is a way to ensure all new tanks and grills comply with the requirements (in addition it makes it easily hand tightenable).

Even old pre overflow valve wont purge if you open the valve while its disconnected from the hose. The end that goes into the tanks valve body opens the port. Its works like a QD on an air hose.

My turkey fryer crapped out on me; need a new one

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