DIY False Bottom

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bhambrew

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As always: thanks to all the members who share their experiences here and post lots of pictures!

I was trying to figure out how to avoid paying the big bucks for a false bottom...here is the solution:

Fortunately, we have a large scrap metal outfit in town, with 15 acres of stuff to pick through. I found a few pieces of this 3/32" thick stainless steel perf in one of the bins. It was $1.50 / LB for a total cost of about $5. The holes are about 1/8" diameter. I marked two 7 1/2" semi-circles and cut the material with the cutoff disc on my angle grinder. I attached two small SS hinges with SS nuts and bolts to the two halves of the FB.

DIY_False_Bottom.JPG


Slipped it into the bottom of the keg, and it seems to fit pretty good!

DIY_False_Bottom2.JPG


Soaked it overnight in a solution of Straight-A and came out looking great.

After reading many threads about False Bottoms there is still one thing that I don't quite understand: how to incorporate the pickup tube? I assume that I just drill a hole in the middle of the False Bottom and drop the tube in and attach to the drain fitting. What I don't understand is: can I still remove the False Bottom with the pickup tube installed? Would I even need to remove the False Bottom? Or, do I need to remove the pickup tube to remove the False Bottom? I was planning on using a small length of copper or stainless tube with compression fitting on the keg for the pickup tube. Any Ideas??

Thanks for the comments!
 
nice job!

in re the pickup tube: i'm pretty sure you cannot remove the FB once the dip tube is installed. you might want to mount the tube in such a way as to make it easily removable, as you will probably want to clean out the very bottom of the MLT once you remove the bulk of the grains (you will most likely have some sediment down there)
 
I've got the Sabco false bottom, with the hole in the center. I just bent a piece of 1/2" OD soft copper in to a 90, cut to appropriate length, flared the end that connects to the bulkhead connection. Remove it to remove the false bottom. Dip tub holds it in place when I dump spent grain. I drilled a few holes right near the bottom of the pickup tube to prevent grain that makes its way thru somehow from being picked up by the dip tube. Not much gets through, but I don't like it to end up in the BK when fly sparging. I'll try to get some pics of mine tonight if it helps.
 
Ok, so...this is what I was trying to duplicate:

P1050700.JPG


Am I assuming correctly that the pickup tube will need to be removed each time the false bottom is removed? Perhaps more importantly...does the false bottom even need to be removed each brew session (to clean the MLT)? Just currious :confused:
 
This might be better. Here is KiltedBrewer's video showing the install of a JayBird false bottom. Mine is about the same, except I use a flared connection instead of a compression connection. I already had a flaring tool for doing my gas line work, and the 1/2" flare stuff is easy to work with.

 
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I have a soldered 5/8" OD "L" shaped diptube in mine and it also serves to keep the FB held down tight. You absolutely need to remove the FB to clean under it because you will get bits of grain in there. The idea of flaring the tube at the bulkhead is just fine. If you use a compression fitting, I highly recommend replacing the metal ferrule with a couple orings to make it really easy to seal and reconfigure. Metal ferrules actually have to be cut off the tube if you want to remove the compression nut.
 
This might be better. Here is KiltedBrewer's video showing the install of a JayBird false bottom. Mine is about the same, except I use a flared connection instead of a compression connection. I already had a flaring tool for doing my gas line work, and the 1/2" flare stuff is easy to work with.

Thanks for the great video...that is exactly what I had in mind. :rockin:
Sounds like I may need to pick up a flare tool? How pricy is that?
 
The idea of flaring the tube at the bulkhead is just fine. If you use a compression fitting, I highly recommend replacing the metal ferrule with a couple orings to make it really easy to seal and reconfigure. Metal ferrules actually have to be cut off the tube if you want to remove the compression nut.

Thanks for the advice. I also picked up a ton of brass compression fittings of various types from the back room of the scrap yard, most of them still new. Sounds like I need to get my hands on a supply of silicone o-rings. I found them in lots of 100 at McMaster Carr, or ordered individually from Bargain Fittings...do you have any other sources for them? Thanks.
 
The screen had some mystery grease on it when I found it in the bin at the metal recycling place. Soaked overnight in the Straight-A and then a little scrub with Barkeepers Friend the next morning and the material was good as new!

bar_keppers.jpg


I've always used Straight-A because that is what the brew shop here in town has. I think it is similar to PBW...Anyone?
 
If you've got the brass compression fittings, and not flaring tool, I would go that route. McMaster is a great source for o-rings. If you keg in corneys, pick up bulk packs of those o-rings while you're at it.
 
my keggle has a 12" hole at the top, the ID of my keggle is larger than 12" probably close to 14" I might say, a 14" round object will not fit in a 12" round hole, cut it in half and fold and you can then insert the FB into the keggle.

might be other reasons as well, but that is one reason for the hinged FB.

-=Jason=-
 
I apologize for such a rookie question, but why is the FB hinged?

The false bottom will not fit through the top of the keg as most holes are cut anywhere from 9" to 11.5". So the 15" false bottom is cut in half and hinges are welded on to them so the false bottom can be folded in half to fit into the top then flattened out to lay across the bottom for maximum bottom coverage for drainage. :mug:
 
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