110v Recirculating eBIAB 2.5 gallon batches

Got the first brew session in. Temps hold steady and it can move to mashout or boil expediently with 3 gallon batches. I managed 79% brew house efficiency on a 1.049 Citra Blonde ale. I think a 90 min boil would put my kit into the low 80's.

Thanks for this build thread. ill be building something like it soon

P-J said:

jrb03,

I see that you have been a member here for several years and I'm honored to be able to answer your first post.

I spent a few hours this morning drawing a diagram that should fit your needs.
The entire build should fit in the Auber Instruments Project Box.

I suggest that you also order their External Mount Heat Sink for the SSR.
The RTD temp probe could be the Deluxe version of Liquid Tight RTD Sensor. It is well worth the extra $9 for it.

I'm not sure how you plan on supplying the 12V power to your pump. I show a 120V outlet that can be used to plug in a transformer. (Edit: I did a search on greatbreweh and found their pumps. They ship with a 12V plug in transformer so the diagram is good to go for that as well.)

I hope this is of some help to you.


As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Wishing you the best.

P-J

Click to expand...

Also is anyone running the original 1 element diagram. i dont like the idea of running 2 separate cords from 2 different circuits.

jammin said:

Got the first brew session in. Temps hold steady and it can move to mashout or boil expediently with 3 gallon batches. I managed 79% brew house efficiency on a 1.049 Citra Blonde ale. I think a 90 min boil would put my kit into the low 80's.



View attachment 74309

Click to expand...

Looks great jammin! Thanks for sharing your experience! I am also getting around 80% efficiency (according to ibrewmaster). Please keep us updated!

cheesecake said:

Also is anyone running the original 1 element diagram. i dont like the idea of running 2 separate cords from 2 different circuits.

Click to expand...

Mine is the original one element design built exactly as pj drew up. I have several posts in this thread detailing my build and performance. I have 4 brews on it and love it so far!

Jammin, can post a detailed pic of how you installed your element when you get a chance. It looks like you used a PVC cap of some sort. Also, what size pot are you using? Great looking build.

Hi jrb,

I will try and get another pic of the element install. I am currently using an idea I saw here. It is a conduict clamp (?) screwed in a 1.5" pvc cap. It seems to be ok, but I think I can make a little better. I don't feel entirely comfortable with it currently.



I did another brew session today. I went from mashout to boil in just under 10 minutes with 4.15 gallons of wort.

I also did a 90 minute boil today and didn't boil off quite as much I calculated. Not sure why the rate changed.

Good news is, I hit 84% brewhouse efficiency when I planned on 80 - thus nailing my anticipated gravity of 1.053.

cheers,
~j


PS: P-J, pm me a mailing address if you see this message. I'd like to send you a couple bottles of homebrew in gratitude for the wiring diagram

Well here is the first glass of my first brew on this system. It is BM's Cream of Three Crops. Ready just in time for the big game. All I can say is yummmmmm. Turned out better than I imagined. The game too.

that game was bull****

You've inspired me, even though it seems like you might be a cowboys fan. I have a question about the parts list - and this is probably just a noob electrician question but it isn't obvious to me.

What is this thing for:
Terminal block - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00144CK7W/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

It's hard to see from your wiring pics, and I don't see where it is noted in PJ's wiring diagram? Is it the ground for everything?

jrb - nice look'n pint!



The terminal block is like an outlet adapter so you can plug several things in to the same spot. I split a jumper on mine and made very efficient use of 1 terminal block.

Does it matter which lines are where though? From the diagram it seems like the ground from the heating element, pump, e-stop, as well as the "line 1" (hot?) from each of the switches, and neutral are all going to the terminal block - or am i misinterpreting the icons in the top left?

Does it all wind up at the terminal block, which is in turn wired to a male plug which goes into the GFCI protected wall outlet?

This seems like elementary stuff, I know, but just want to make sure I understand what I am looking at so I don't burn down my house.

^totally understand.

The terminal block simply creates a group of "plug ins" for each respective line: ground, neutral and line 1.

You will want a terminal block to run all your line 1 and neutral elements b/c you simply can't use a wire nut for that many wires; with the exception of the ground I suppose (since there are only 3).

But yes, the terminal block essentially leads to the cord you plug into your 110 volt outlet on the wall.

Some folks may choose to have separate terminal blocks to run neutral and hot; thus using 2 terminal blocks. If you look at the excellent wiring diagram P-J drew up, you can wire up a terminal block to tie all your neutral wires too. That particular terminal block would in turn be wired to the neutral line coming from your wall outlet. You would do this again with line 1 on a separate terminal block.

Does that help? This stuff sounds more confusing than it really is.

No that makes sense, thanks very much. I knew about this stuff ages ago when I needed it for work but it has long since been forgotten and not needed until now, so I appreciate the help.

Like jammin said its simply a strip to connect all of your wires of the same type. The terminal block I linked to actually has two separate blocks on it. I used one for all the hot wires, and one for all the neutrals. I did simply wire nut all the ground wires since there was only a few of them.

I finally figured out how to adjust power as a percentage in manual mode. This might be trivial to some, but was a little difficult for me to figure out. The manual seemed to leave out a piece of key info.. which is what I want to point out.



To run the PID in manual mode..

Hold SET down until you get into the parameter adjustments.

Click SET until you reach A-M.

Set A-M to 1.

- Now manual mode is enabled.

Click A/M to turn the the unit to manual mode and disengage PID functionality.

Click SET to change the display's set value (SV) from temperature to percentage.

Arrow up or down to adjust power output percentage.

PJ,

I have a question about the following diagram:

P-J said:

As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")


P-J

Click to expand...

You are showing the Element switch actuating a contactor. I fully understand the use of the contactor in the 220V versions: many do not wish to touch a switch carrying 220V directly with "possibly" wet fingers - although there are some control panels such as jsguitar's where 220V switches are used.

1. Are you doing this in order to make it easier to convert this controller to 220V later should the brewer desire? I "think" that possibility was mentioned later in the thread.

2. Are you using the contactor because of the amount of amps (as opposed to volts) that would be traveling thru the element circuit?

I'm really interested in this design as well. It makes me think that there might be some virtue in converting my 7.5 gallon kettle into a small e-kettle for making 2.5 - 3 gallon batches.

Thanks,
Keith

kzimmer0817 said:

PJ,

I have a question about the following diagram:


You are showing the Element switch actuating a contactor. I fully understand the use of the contactor in the 220V versions: many do not wish to touch a switch carrying 220V directly with "possibly" wet fingers - although there are some control panels such as jsguitar's where 220V switches are used.

1. Are you doing this in order to make it easier to convert this controller to 220V later should the brewer desire? I "think" that possibility was mentioned later in the thread.

2. Are you using the contactor because of the amount of amps (as opposed to volts) that would be traveling thru the element circuit?

I'm really interested in this design as well. It makes me think that there might be some virtue in converting my 7.5 gallon kettle into a small e-kettle for making 2.5 - 3 gallon batches.

Thanks,
Keith

Click to expand...

Keith,

The design was implemented the way it is because jrb03 wanted a specific design using Auber Instruments illuminated push button switches (first post - this thread).

The particular switch (Model: SW1) is rated for 10A. This means that any element running on 120V at 1200W (or more) cannot be directly controlled with the PB switch. The contactor then becomes an easy solution. A huge side benefit is that the controller can be easily converted to a 240V system with very simple wiring changes. The switch also functions well on either 120 or 240V including the switch illumination.

Later on in the thread (post #33) I show a diagram for a 2 element system. This also can be easily converted to 240V with easy wiring changes. Going to 240V with this plan would allow the system to be changed to a 2 kettle setup (HLT/BOIL) later on. The contactors help a lot with a conversion plan.

I hope this makes sense.

P-J

P-J said:

Keith,
The design was implemented the way it is because jrb03 wanted a specific design using Auber Instruments illuminated push button switches (first post - this thread).

The particular switch (Model: SW1) is rated for 10A. This means that any element running on 120V at 1200W (or more) cannot be directly controlled with the PB switch. The contactor then becomes an easy solution. A huge side benefit is that the controller can be easilt converted to a 240V system with very simple wiring changes. The switch also functions well on either 120 or 240V including the switch illumination. <snip<
I hope this makes sense.

P-J

Click to expand...

It does make sense. Thanks. I knew that the OP had asked for a specific design, but I was wondering if there was a "scientific" reason for doing it. I figured that it was because, allthough the Auber pushbutton is rated for 120V, it is not capable of carrying the amperes required by the element. I guess the physician in me causes me to over-think many things - as might be apparent from all the unanswered questions in my own "planning" thread. I fear that I've worn out my welcome on the Electric Brewing forum.

Thanks again for all the help you provide to folks building their electric rigs. Since we'll be moving in 2 months to a house that has a great place for brewing (and electric brewing), I hope to get started on my own controller then.

Respectfully,
Keith

Is there any way I could use 12v switches like this one (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11311) with this setup?

edit: removed my entire post as it seems I am probably completely incorrect and dont want to steer the convo the wrong way. hoping someone else can answer correctly

This is excellent! I have been doing BIAB on the stove for a little bit now, but am feeling the constraints of space (both in the kitchen and in my 5gal pot!).

Ive wanted to do a eBrewery ever since I came across Kai's site, but it was worried about the huge initial costs (not to mention being a total noob with electricity/wiring). I really wanted something that would let me "step in", but not totally waste time/materials.

Thank you to both P-J and jrb03 for providing a road-map!

P-J said:

jrb03,

I see that you have been a member here for several years and I'm honored to be able to answer your first post.

I spent a few hours this morning drawing a diagram that should fit your needs.
The entire build should fit in the Auber Instruments Project Box.

I suggest that you also order their External Mount Heat Sink for the SSR.
The RTD temp probe could be the Deluxe version of Liquid Tight RTD Sensor. It is well worth the extra $9 for it.

I'm not sure how you plan on supplying the 12V power to your pump. I show a 120V outlet that can be used to plug in a transformer. (Edit: I did a search on greatbreweh and found their pumps. They ship with a 12V plug in transformer so the diagram is good to go for that as well.)

I hope this is of some help to you.


As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



Wishing you the best.

P-J

Click to expand...

You show resistors in your diagram...how should they be connected??

Does the pump only recirculate when the element is on?

BoxBrewer said:

Does the pump only recirculate when the element is on?

Click to expand...

I recirc the entire mash. The unit has an on/off for the element tho

During recirculation is the element on or off? Just trying to get a idea.

cheesecake said:

During recirculation is the element on or off? Just trying to get a idea.

Click to expand...

The element is controlled by the PID. This means the element will be alternating on/off to maintain the temp you enter on the PID. This is how it's keeps your mash temp perfect.

Recirculating keeps the fluids moving and the temperature even throughout the kettle. It also helps with efficiency.


Keeps asking questions if you need help - not a prob.

Ok I understand the pid but I was more concerned about hotspots but if you limit the flow and recirculate you won't have That problem. Now I just need to find a narrow pot so I can do 1 gallon batches also

jammin said:

I recirc the entire mash. The unit has an on/off for the element tho

Click to expand...

So the pump is just turned on via the LED switch on the control box, right? I have a buddy that actually builds control boxes for a living, and I think I might have him help me out with this project. Gotta get some funds together for it though!

BoxBrewer said:

So the pump is just turned on via the LED switch on the control box, right? I have a buddy that actually builds control boxes for a living, and I think I might have him help me out with this project. Gotta get some funds together for it though!

Click to expand...

Yes. The pump is turned on with an LED switch. The other 2 switches power on/off the PID and heating element.

I've had several requests about my narrow pot. Ive had it for years, and have not been able to find another one like it. It was sold with a basket, and intended for outdoor frying. All the pots I see now are shorter and wider. If anyone finds something like it please let us know!

jammin said:

Yes. The pump is turned on with an LED switch. The other 2 switches power on/off the PID and heating element.

Click to expand...

Sorry to ask more about it, so the PID switch simply powers up the PID and the other switch for the heating element... I don't understand. Doesn't the PID turn the element on and off to regulate the temperature?

Also, what size kettle are you using? I currently do 3 gallon BIAB batches in a 5 gallon kettle, but I fill the kettle to the very tippy top, haha. Seems like a 10 gallon kettle would be plenty big. Thanks for answering my questions!

*Edit, found my answer to kettle size: 6 gallon.

The PID controls when the current is sent to the element, but the LED switch controls the contactor which lets current to the element in an "all or nothing" manner. It's basically just a secondary line of safety, so you can turn off the element regardless of what the PID is telling the SSR/element to do.
You can sorta think of the PID as a dimmer and the contactor as a light switch - doesn't matter what you do with the dimmer lever if the light switch is turned off....

It's a way for you to be sure all power to the kettle/element is off.

DustBow said:

You can sorta think of the PID as a dimmer and the contactor as a light switch - doesn't matter what you do with the dimmer lever if the light switch is turned off....

It's a way for you to be sure all power to the kettle/element is off.

Click to expand...

Makes perfect sense, thank you!

I've been adding up everything... Looks like about $225 at Auberins, over $200 at Bargain Fittings, plus a new kettle, pump and element... Not cheap, but I am hoping to build my setup very similar to this over the next few months. Thanks for all the info in here. The only thing I am worried about is understanding the PID instructions

BoxBrewer said:

I've been adding up everything... Looks like about $225 at Auberins, over $200 at Bargain Fittings, plus a new kettle, pump and element... Not cheap, but I am hoping to build my setup very similar to this over the next few months. Thanks for all the info in here. The only thing I am worried about is understanding the PID instructions

Click to expand...

I made a post about PID instructions if you can find it.

Post here when you have questions tho!

P-J said:

jrb03,

I see that you have been a member here for several years and I'm honored to be able to answer your first post.

I spent a few hours this morning drawing a diagram that should fit your needs.
The entire build should fit in the Auber Instruments Project Box.

I suggest that you also order their External Mount Heat Sink for the SSR.
The RTD temp probe could be the Deluxe version of Liquid Tight RTD Sensor. It is well worth the extra $9 for it.

I'm not sure how you plan on supplying the 12V power to your pump. I show a 120V outlet that can be used to plug in a transformer. (Edit: I did a search on greatbreweh and found their pumps. They ship with a 12V plug in transformer so the diagram is good to go for that as well.)

I hope this is of some help to you.

As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")

http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a4-2000w-BIAB-120V-D.jpg

Wishing you the best.

P-J

Click to expand...

I am planning on making a panel just like this except I will be using a 3000w 120v element, on a 30amp breaker. Would anything need to be changed in P-J's diagram or would it work out to be the same?

I've ordered nearly everything I need to complete this build. But I want to make my control box more modular.

I'd like to use a computer power cord to hook up the box to the wall. Seems easy enough.
And then, I'd like to plug my element and pump into the box as well.
If I'm not mistaken, my temp probe has an inline disconnect that I can attach/detach from the box.

Does any of this make sense? I'm going to see how far I can get into the wiring process, supplies are in the mail, I'm going to have a friend confirm my results before powering on. I'd just like to get some great help from you folks!

I'm open to suggestions or changes too!

Thanks.

*Edit, I guess the computer cord "inlet" i'm thinking of would be properly called a receptacle? Plug, Connector, Receptacle.

First off I think this is awesome. Just got bored the other day and started looking into this when I kind of wanted to brew but didn't want to run to the store to get a new propane tank. And yes, it's only a mile away and I am that lazy sometimes.

Anyways, like I said, this looks like a terrific setup but might be more than I can justify spending in my current state. This got me thinking though. Maybe I could do something in a step by step process. Right off the bat getting the pump to recirculate on the stovetop might not be a bad starting point. After that I guess just piecing stuff together.

captain_brew said:

I've ordered nearly everything I need to complete this build. But I want to make my control box more modular.

I'd like to use a computer power cord to hook up the box to the wall. Seems easy enough.
And then, I'd like to plug my element and pump into the box as well.
If I'm not mistaken, my temp probe has an inline disconnect that I can attach/detach from the box.

Does any of this make sense? I'm going to see how far I can get into the wiring process, supplies are in the mail, I'm going to have a friend confirm my results before powering on. I'd just like to get some great help from you folks!

I'm open to suggestions or changes too!

Thanks.

*Edit, I guess the computer cord "inlet" i'm thinking of would be properly called a receptacle? Plug, Connector, Receptacle.

Click to expand...

Typical pc power cords are 18 awg or 16 awg. For a 30 amp 110v circuit you will need 10 awg wiring. Make sure your power cord and receptacle are rated appropriately.

ddahl84 said:

I am planning on making a panel just like this except I will be using a 3000w 120v element, on a 30amp breaker. Would anything need to be changed in P-J's diagram or would it work out to be the same?

Click to expand...

I've never seen a 3000w 120v element??? Theoretically it should work the same just make sure your contactor and ssr are rated for 30 amps.