Epoxy bartop buffing/scratch remover?

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rbarr110

rbarr110

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I am in the process of building a bar in my basement during my spare time. I recently coated my bartop with a 2-part epoxy resin, and am very pleased with the results. However, I did have one problem….

My bar is an “L” shape so I had to do my epoxy coats in two applications. I would have to level the bar on one axis, pour the epoxy, let it cure, and then level the bar on the other axis and do it again. I ended up with a fine line/lip where the second coat of epoxy ended over the first coat.

I am hoping to take some fine sand paper and level out the lip and then buff/polish the sandpaper abrasions out. Does anyone know of a product that will work for this?

I have looked at
novuspolish
and it looks like a very well reviewed product….for plastics, not sure if it will work on epoxy.

If all else fails, I will do another thin flood coat over the whole bar and all will look good again, just hoping to avoid buying more epoxy, its expensive.
 
rbarr110 said:
I am in the process of building a bar in my basement during my spare time. I recently coated my bartop with a 2-part epoxy resin, and am very pleased with the results. However, I did have one problem….

My bar is an “L” shape so I had to do my epoxy coats in two applications. I would have to level the bar on one axis, pour the epoxy, let it cure, and then level the bar on the other axis and do it again. I ended up with a fine line/lip where the second coat of epoxy ended over the first coat.

I am hoping to take some fine sand paper and level out the lip and then buff/polish the sandpaper abrasions out. Does anyone know of a product that will work for this?

I have looked at
novuspolish
and it looks like a very well reviewed product….for plastics, not sure if it will work on epoxy.

If all else fails, I will do another thin flood coat over the whole bar and all will look good again, just hoping to avoid buying more epoxy, its expensive.
Click to expand...

You can sand it down really fine then use a heat gun sparingly. It works in boat building. Try a sample piece first to be safe and sure it will work.
 
I've used novus polish for acrylic. It's a softer plastic than epoxy, so it works faster. From my experience.

Start with 220 grit sand paper, work your way to 400wet/dry then 600 wet/dry.

Buff with rouge(red) then white diamond buffing compound (use one wheel per compound.) I have a kit from lowes that cost me $12 and fits on a drill.

Switch to the novus stuff and wax on, wax off. Step through the different grits until you're happy.

And like Chosewon said, practice on a scrap piece or hidden edge first.

B
 
OK here is an update -

I couldnt find any sandpaper above 600 grit so thats what i started with to test. I sanded down the area....which made me feel sick because the nice clear epoxy finish had thousands of fine white scrates all over it. But I proceeded till the raised areas where pretty smooth.

I picked up the Novus 1 and 2 solution and hand buffed the scratches for about 15 minutes. To my surprise the novus 2 scratch remover worked pretty well. In average lighting conditions its barely noticeble (unless you know its there and are looking for it). With close up lighting, it is slightly hazy looking, but overall still very clear and worked well.
 
if you put a bit more elbow grease into it, you should be able to polish the top back to glass. Did you use a new rag for the finer polish?

B
 
I can't speak for bar tops, but I have built a few fly rod in the past. The threadwork on the handle and all the guides use epoxy over the thread. The epoxy would build up in spots and sometimes bubbles would form. The way I removed the imperfections was to sand the area and reapply the epoxy. Once the new stuff dries you will never know it was sanded. Its pristine after the second coat dries.

If you have any epoxy left over try it on some scrap wood. You will be amazed at the results.
 

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