How small can a partial boil be?

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mattxhand

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I am getting ready to brew a 5 gallon batch and was wordering how small the partial boil could be. My stove can't provide enough energy to boil much water.

Thanks
 
You can make a small partial boil, but you will need to adjust the hops for the volume. I would be concerned about getting a lot of scorching from having such a thick boil.
 
I'm not super sure how small u could go but at say a gallon and a half I would be scared of scorching the wort with 5 gals worth of fermentable sugars in such a small volume. Is getting a burner and boiling outside out of the picture? Also if u know anything about electricity u can look into a heat stick in the electric section of the forum. Chopps
 
My only option is going to my parents' house about 15 minutes away and transporting from there.

I guess my question now is if I do a five gallon batch there, could I transport the wort in my car from their house to mine and then pitch the yeast when I get home?
 
mattxhand said:
My only option is going to my parents' house about 15 minutes away and transporting from there.

I guess my question now is if I do a five gallon batch there, could I transport the wort in my car from their house to mine and then pitch the yeast when I get home?

I'd cool it, pitch it then transport.
 
mattxhand said:
Is it okay to agitate it that much with the yeast pitched?

I don't think you will agitate it that much. During and after fermenting is when you don't want to introduce more 02
 
Why not split all the ingredients in half and do two 1/2 boils. That is what I have been doing now for almost a year.

Yes I adjusted my hops down a bit, heck I even cut them back when doing a partial boil as I don't care for hoppy beer.

Good luck and enjoy
Toy4Rick
 
Thinking...what about a late extract addition with a small volume boil, let's say 1.25 gallons. Use enough extract to get you to around (ballpark) your target gravity in that 1.25 gallons. Do your hop additions and boil as usual. At the end of the boil, add another gallon or so of water--so now about 2 gallons--and the remainder of your extract. Bring up to pasteurization temp (if it's not already there--I've heard 140 degrees) hold that temp for 10 mins let's say, then chill to desired temp. Add to your fermenter, top up to your final volume, aerate and pitch yeast?

Never done it that way myself, just trying to come up with a workable method.
 
Thinking...what about a late extract addition with a small volume boil, let's say 1.25 gallons. Use enough extract to get you to around (ballpark) your target gravity in that 1.25 gallons. Do your hop additions and boil as usual. At the end of the boil, add another gallon or so of water--so now about 2 gallons--and the remainder of your extract. Bring up to pasteurization temp (if it's not already there--I've heard 140 degrees) hold that temp for 10 mins let's say, then chill to desired temp. Add to your fermenter, top up to your final volume, aerate and pitch yeast?

Never done it that way myself, just trying to come up with a workable method.
The late extract approach is your best bet. But better than adding the extra extract to the main pot at the end (becuase it will kill your boil and take a long time to get back up to boil) is to use a second pot for doing a short boil on the extract. Chill that seperately and it will also allow you to get everything cooled quicker. This approach works great for me.
 
My only option is going to my parents' house about 15 minutes away and transporting from there.

I guess my question now is if I do a five gallon batch there, could I transport the wort in my car from their house to mine and then pitch the yeast when I get home?

I have pitched yeast, put on an airlock, buckled in my carboy and driven home.
 
The late extract approach is your best bet. But better than adding the extra extract to the main pot at the end (becuase it will kill your boil and take a long time to get back up to boil) is to use a second pot for doing a short boil on the extract. Chill that seperately and it will also allow you to get everything cooled quicker. This approach works great for me.

Having read this, perhaps I wasn't clear with my description. My method was suggesting adding additional water at flameout, and then the remainder of the extract. There was no need to bring it back up to a boil, just get the additional extract dissolved and, if above 140F hold it there for 10 mins or so to pasteurize. If the temp did go below 140F, add some heat to get it there and again, hold at 140F for 10 mins. Extract does not necessarily need to be boiled, only pasteurized, and that's really the key here.

Aidan's method works, with all due respect I was trying to avoid using a 2nd pot on a stove that is not very effective.

(I am a fan of Aidan's blog, btw)
 
Having read this, perhaps I wasn't clear with my description. My method was suggesting adding additional water at flameout, and then the remainder of the extract. There was no need to bring it back up to a boil, just get the additional extract dissolved and, if above 140F hold it there for 10 mins or so to pasteurize. If the temp did go below 140F, add some heat to get it there and again, hold at 140F for 10 mins. Extract does not necessarily need to be boiled, only pasteurized, and that's really the key here.

Aidan's method works, with all due respect I was trying to avoid using a 2nd pot on a stove that is not very effective.

(I am a fan of Aidan's blog, btw)

Thanks mr_bell! I'm not sure about the temp for pasterisiation, 140F seems a bit low to me. When I'm pasteurising gelatin (which you can't boil), I hold it at around 170F for 15 mins. I like to bring my extract to a boil to be sure, but maybe it's not necessary. But I also like the other advantage of the second pot - you don't have to wait for pasteurising the extract, you can have it done and cooled by the time your main boil is over.
 
Is pitching and then driving unnecessarily risking adding oxygen, especially if there are any/many bumps along the way, not to mention picking up the thing and carrying it to its final spot?
 
Is pitching and then driving unnecessarily risking adding oxygen, especially if there are any/many bumps along the way, not to mention picking up the thing and carrying it to its final spot?

No, at that point in the process (prior to fermentation) adding oxygen would not be bad. I'm assuming you're not transporting it days later and not driving it for days. Never assume right? I'd be more concerned about the carboy tipping over; that would be a mess.
 
No, at that point in the process (prior to fermentation) adding oxygen would not be bad. I'm assuming you're not transporting it days later and not driving it for days. Never assume right? I'd be more concerned about the carboy tipping over; that would be a mess.

Doesn't fermentation begin as soon as you pitch the yeast, even if it can take a day or longer for visible signs of fermentation?
 
My old edition of Complete Joy of Home Brewing (Second Edition, 1991) shows boiling with 1-1/2 gallons of water for a 5 gallon batch. And my old Home Beermakers Guide by Leigh Beadle calls for 3 quarts of water. Those volumes are not ideal, but it will work. Late extract addition, as stated previously, would help also.
 
Doesn't fermentation begin as soon as you pitch the yeast, even if it can take a day or longer for visible signs of fermentation?

A very good question, honestly I would defer on answering that as I'm not sure. If the yeast were pitched, let's say, I strapped the carboy into the car, drove 15 mins, took it out and brought it inside I would think it would be safe. Maybe someone else could answer; I am curious now myself. I suppose you could drive your wort home and then pitch to be absolutely safe, in this situation.
 
A very good question, honestly I would defer on answering that as I'm not sure. If the yeast were pitched, let's say, I strapped the carboy into the car, drove 15 mins, took it out and brought it inside I would think it would be safe. Maybe someone else could answer; I am curious now myself. I suppose you could drive your wort home and then pitch to be absolutely safe, in this situation.

That's what I was thinking -- I'm still a bit of an amateur. I did a batch recently I had to carry down 3 flights of stairs from my kitchen to my basement, and I didn't pitch until I made it all the way down just out of caution.

I'd imagine given the infancy of the fermentation that even while some oxidation might occur, it also might not be enough to be worried about... but better than safe than sorry, maybe.
 
That's what I was thinking -- I'm still a bit of an amateur. I did a batch recently I had to carry down 3 flights of stairs from my kitchen to my basement, and I didn't pitch until I made it all the way down just out of caution.

I'd imagine given the infancy of the fermentation that even while some oxidation might occur, it also might not be enough to be worried about... but better than safe than sorry, maybe.

With all due respect, of course, IMO that's overkill. On all my batches brewed in the last 4 years, I've pitched yeast typically in the kitchen then carried my fermenter down the basement stairs (sometimes up to .5 hours later) with no ill effects. And, since I'm not a big drinker, I typically have my beers around for some time and would notice the effects of oxidation.
 
I've never heard that there's any problem with oxegenation immediately after pitching. In fact I've seen it recommended when pitching dry yeast and I sometimes follow this method - sprinkle yeast on top, let sit for 20-30mins, then give the fermenter a good shake.

But do enlighten me if this is bad.
 
I think your fine with driving it home and if it adds O2 more the better. Many brewers Oxygenate when they first pitch and then do it again in a few hours. I think when your yeast start taking off is when you don't want to add oxygen.
 
As long as there is oxygen in the solution, the yeast is in their reproductive phase. They don't start fermenting until they deplete the oxygen.
 
Why not split all the ingredients in half and do two 1/2 boils. That is what I have been doing now for almost a year.

+1000 :rockin:

I did all-grain for 3 years doing a split boil on the stove-top before I finally got a propane burner.
 
I know that I posted this thread a while ago, but I just wanted to follow up because there wa no definitive answer and brew day is tomorrow :)

I will be brewing the full 5 gallon batch and will need to transport it from the brewing location 15 minutes to my house. The drive is normal city driving minus traffic, so it should be a smooth ride. Should I pitch the yeast bofore or after I get home?
 
I have always pitched it before my drive, even when the drive was significantly longer than that. Never had a bad batch.
 

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