So... bought a keg of Sam

And it looks like this.



So... how do I hook up my CO2 system to that, which has been configured for homebrew/corny kegs?

I just have the standard homebrew kegging equipment.

you need a Sanke tap.

Keg Tap Coupler - D System
as well as Beer Line Coupling Hex Nut and Beer Fitting - 3/16" Brass Tailpeice to hook up to your beer line.

Wrong Forum, but... what you need is a sankey tap that looks like this:

That's a sankey valve (pretty standard among domestic beers).

You need a sankey tap (type D I believe). If you want to be able to change quickly between sankey and homebrew, you probably want to get a quick conversion kit like this: kegerator homebrew conversion kit. @ Williams Brewing

Check craigslist. Lots of ex-college kids selling their sanke taps.

I've used Midwest Supply as an example...because I just placed an order from them...and was very happy that it was shipped the same day that I ordered it...

But please use your favorite supplier... KEGCONNECTION is another great site to shop.

I don't work for any of them...and in no way am I affiliated with them.

Here's the list ->->->->

A Domestic Sankey Coupler:

Commercial Sanke Single Valve Tap. :: Midwest Supplies Homebrewing and Winemaking Supplies

Two 1/4" MFL Tailpiece adapters:

1/4" Stainless MFL Tail Piece :: Midwest Supplies Homebrewing and Winemaking Supplies

Two Beer Nut Washers:

Neoprene Washer :: Midwest Supplies Homebrewing and Winemaking Supplies

Two Beer Nuts...(but it looks like the coupler comes with one already)

Hex Nut :: Midwest Supplies Homebrewing and Winemaking Supplies

Two Barb/Swivel Nut fittings. (NOTE: The link is for a 1/4" barb...but get the size for your hoses...your gas hose inside dia. and your liquid hose inside dia.)

Barbed Swivel Nut 1/4" Flare, 1/4" Barb :: Midwest Supplies Homebrewing and Winemaking Supplies



Two Swivel Nut Gaskets (NOTE: Used whenever the mating surfaces are metal on metal...this will go between them to get a good seal)

Swivel Nut Gasket :: Midwest Supplies Homebrewing and Winemaking Supplies


AND if your homebrew kegs are Ball Lock:

Ball Lock Liquid Fitting Threaded :: Midwest Supplies Homebrewing and Winemaking Supplies
Ball Lock Gas Fitting Threaded :: Midwest Supplies Homebrewing and Winemaking Supplies

AND if your homebrew kegs are PIN Lock:

Pin Lock Liquid Fitting Threaded :: Midwest Supplies Homebrewing and Winemaking Supplies
Pin Lock Gas Fitting Threaded :: Midwest Supplies Homebrewing and Winemaking Supplies

Here's what you do...

1) Cut your homebrew disconnects off saving as much hose as you can. (provided they're barb type disconnects)
2) Slip your oetiker clamp, worm clamp, etc.. over the end of the hose...insert the swivel nut barb into the hose end...slide the clamp down over the barb and tighten.
3) Prepare the Domestic Sankey Coupler by removing the tailpiece that it comes with. And placing one each 1/4" MFL tailpiece adapter on the GAS port (side), and LIQUID port (top)...careful not to loose the rubber check vavle in the GAS Port. Make sure you put a BEER NUT WASHER between the port and the tailpiece adapter. Slip a BEER NUT over the tailpiece adapter and snug it down.
4) Now place one each swivel nut gaskets into the swivel nuts that you just added to your liquid and gas hose. Attach the LIQUID line to the top of the Sankey Coupler...and attach the GAS line to the side of the Sankey Coupler.

You're Rigged!

Now to hook it up!

1) If you have a shutoff vavle on the CO2 Regulator...close it. Trying to keep any liquid from backing up if possible.

2) Put your keg in the Kegerator, bucket of ice, or whatever...and chill it.

3) Make sure all your connections are tight..and your faucet is CLOSED...unless you want to take a beer bath.

4) Attach the Sankey Coupler to the KEG of Sam.

5) Pull the pressure relief split ring to relieve excess pressure from the keg.

6) Open your shutoff valve on your CO2 regulator and adjust the pressure on the Regulator to 12-14 psi...unless you're dispensing through a Jockey Box...you'll need more pressure then.

7) Place a mug under that faucet and pull it full open, letting that delicious Sam fill it to the brim.

8) Drink and Enjoy.

9) Repeat steps 7) and 8) until you're overcome with happiness!

Oh...and when you're done with the keg of Sam...

1) Disconnect the Sankey Coupler

2) Turn off your GAS

3) Remove the Swivel Nuts from the Sankey Coupler and attach them to your new Pinlock or ball lock fitting that are threaded on the ends

4) Reattach your system to a fresh keg of homebrew!

5) Take your beer nuts, washers, tailpiece adapters off the coupler...and wash everything off good and allow to air dry before storing.

Now you can switch back and forth very easily!

On another note...

If you own a Commercial System that's got all the connectors already for Commercial BEER kegs...but want to add HOMEBREW...

I think this is the fastest way to do it...

Check out the EZ Shank Disconnects avail in pin or ball, gas or liquid

Product Listing -

This is even quicker to convert from commercial to homebrew.

Sanke Tap to Homebrew Conversion Kit, with disconnects

You guys rock! Thanks so much!

bhs668 said:

This is even quicker to convert from commercial to homebrew.

Sanke Tap to Homebrew Conversion Kit, with disconnects

Click to expand...

bhs668 nailed it IMHO. Primarily this is similar to what I do. I can switch between a corny or commercial keg in seconds. Sam Adams does use a "D Coupler" (at least according to Micro Matic). So once you get the lines connected to your coupler just leave them. Simply insert QD's and you're done. As someone else mentioned, just don't forget to clean them when not in use.