My ghetto basement exhaust hood setup

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Golddiggie

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Having very limited funds, and not much for tools, I decided to go about making an exhaust hood so that I could brew in the basement where I now live. My total budget spend target was no more than $100. Pretty sure I can in either at that, or within a couple of dollars (on either side, not 100% sure right now).

Side shot of the setup:
2012-12-16_14-22-03_653-57699.jpg


I do have thin rope holding the bucket in position (will be trilled later), as well as the metal strapping. I also use aluminumized (sp?) tape on the joints to ensure that things would flow as designed (to the outside). The fan is a 500cfm model, which after consulting with others, was determined would be more than enough for this task.

Frontal shot:
2012-12-16_14-21-39_988-57700.jpg


Not the best picture, but the best I could do with the phone. I'll work on getting a better picture later. It shows the burner in position (roughly) with a virgin keg on it. I wanted to see how it would work out, height wise. I'll be getting some wheels to install on the burner legs over the weekend, so that I can move the burner around without issue. These will be rated to handle the total maximum weight of a mash tun on the burner.

I made the 'window' replacement out of a single piece of laminate/glued pine board. I put about three coats of varnish on the outside to protect it from the elements (rain, snow, etc). I also routed the opening in it where the clear plex is installed. The window is about 11" square. I also used three half lengths of brazing rod to help hold it in place until I could get the strap in place to support it. These were inserted into holes that were already there (no drilling involved).
2012-12-16_14-22-43_705-57701.jpg


Yes, that is the "Handy-man's helper" on the wood to take up the space that was showing. I haven't decided, yet, if I'll be using something else in those areas. I could just use some of the metal tape if it comes down to it.

My main goal was to make something that could be easily removed with doing the absolute minimum to the house. I'm renting, so it doesn't feel right to go and make major alterations for my hobby. Especially when I don't expect to be here for more than a couple of years.

For reference, the 'tub' that is now the hood/catch is a 24" diameter model from Home Depot. :D Told you it was ghetto. :drunk: All the ducting is 8" diameter. Inside the hood (no picture yet) I screwed from the inside to hold the flange in place. I then ran the metal tape all around it (to seal it off). IF I wanted, I could get a different shape/size tub to install in place. It wouldn't take much to remove the current one and install a different one.

First test/use is planned for in the next week or so (this year). Just need to get a clear day to do this. I am thinking about getting either a sheet of plastic, or a tarp, and spanning the floor joists over the area. Even though the tub is larger than the keggle opening, I'd rather not have either steam get into the insulation, or things fall as I'm brewing. :D

Let's hear the comments from the gallery... :eek: :D :tank: :drunk:
 
Thanks... With an effective duct run/length of about 13', the 500cfm fan should be enough to properly vent the area. The basement is not air-tight by any stretch.

I did consult with another HBT member who is using a lower CFM rated fan with a longer run, and it's working well for him. So, I figured I'd give it a twirl. Worst case, I'll get a higher CFM rated fan after the first brew-day. It will be a bit of work to replace it, but not the end of the world. :D

I also plan to use that area for when I weld/solder things, with the fan going. :D

Oh, and at the window side not only is there metal screen over the outlet, I have a baffle in there too. Things to keep critters out. :D

I'd love to have a professionally built exhaust system, but it's not in the cards right now. Especially after getting a slop sink installed in the basement (with hot and cold water hose bibs). I'll post a picture of the sink setup later. The plumber used hose bibs on a piece of PT wood for me. No drilling into the concrete. :D I wanted the hose bibs so that it would be easy to connect up for the plate chiller as well as my wash wand (also a DIY item).
 
I'd crack a window or install a small pipe to give "make-up air" so the house doesn't gets sucked into a vacuum, AKA it may start sucking air from the furnace flue. Holding up a small flame will tell you a lot about where air is moving.
 
The bulkhead doesn't seal, at all (I have it covered with a tarp to keep the rain out) and there's another window that I know doesn't seal. Plus the pipes going to the outside (for the drier vent and such) have large gaps on around them (a good 1/2" or so on one side). I can see daylight through most, if not all of those. So not too concerned about getting fresh air in. Worst case, I'll open the other window while brewing. I can also open up the door to the upstairs, from the basement, for more air to come in if needed.
 
Great setup and the best thing is that its portable!

Hadn't thought of that. Wanted it so that it could be taken down when I move, and the original window could be put back in. But, you're right, it is 'portable'... You just need to remove the tub and then it's pretty easy to move around. I could even shift over to the window by the bulkhead if I needed to. :D
 
That's pretty creative. I put in a standard kitchen exhaust hood last year rated 220 cfm on high/190 cmf in low and that has been plenty for me with a run of about 5 feet. I even turn the fan to low once I'm up to boil and throttle down my burner, though that Blichmann is double the BTU rating of the hurricane burner I'm using.

Propane in the basement made me nervous, though. So now its on to natural gas for me.
 
Don't know if your planning on using LP or natural but if LP I would find a way to put the tank outside. Definately not safe to have use the tank indoors.
 
I store the tanks in the shed. The Blichmann burner is rated at 72k BTU. I've also consulted with people that do ventilation (in this area) and my design, and use plan, shouldn't have any issue. I would have changed it from the start if there was an issue with it.

Biggest issue you can have with a propane tank is filling it when it's brutally cold out, and not using it as it gets warmer. I had one vent in that situation before. It was outside, but I smelled it when I picked up the mail. I called the fire department about it. They just opened up the vent screw on it to get rid of more of the gas.

Running for NG isn't an option with renting. When I get my own house, I plan to have either NG or LPG hard lines run from an outside source. With any luck it will be natural gas (so I can have it for my stove too). If not, I'll have a BIG tank outside the house.
 
It looks functional. Nice job.

This is a small thing, but if the exhaust duct work slopes to the inside any moisture that condenses will run back in. I thing you would want to make sure it runs to the outside
 
Yeah, I plan to adjust it so that it's as level as possible before the first run. Even though the keggle will be positioned in the middle (15" diameter in a 24" diameter hood).
 
Sounds like you have the humidity problem handled. Now what about carbon monoxide?

Running a big burning inside sounds iffy to me.
 
That's a good chunk of what I discussed with others. With the 500cfm rating of the fan, it should pull more than enough waste air out, and with the basement being as poorly air-tight as it is, plenty for good air to come in. Still, I have another window, plus large bulkhead I can open up to bring in even more clean air if needed. I'm already looking at higher CFM fans. They're almost what I've already spent on the setup (to get 8" diameter connections) but if that's what needs to be installed (changing the setup) I'll do it.

It will beat the snot out of trying to brew in 20mph+ wind and temperatures in the 30's [F], or below.

BTW, people run high BTU ovens and stoves inside all the time. I've seen people using more BTU's to cook over a few hours than I'll be using with NO fans running. IMO, people are being scared spitless with scare tactics. Granted, I wouldn't do this without good ventilation, but that's just being smart (and logical). Also, I looked over the BYO article. With the CFM needed, at a 100' run, I'm over the equivalent at the <15' run length (you add 10' of run for each 90 elbow). I would have needed 2400cfm with a 100' run. With 500cfm and 15' run (rounding UP), I'm well above the needed level.

Also (last edit, I swear). I discussed it with another HBT member that did something similar. He used a 400cfm fan with a 30' run equivalent (if I recall correctly) without issue.

As they say, man up or... :D
 
I know there are some guys that build some expensive stuff on here but I love it when someone comes up with a perfectly good alternative. You aren't going to win any beauty contest but you are going to get a big high five from me for working with in a budget and working with what you have.
 
I know there are some guys that build some expensive stuff on here but I love it when someone comes up with a perfectly good alternative. You aren't going to win any beauty contest but you are going to get a big high five from me for work with in your budget and working this what you got

Thanks... Sure, I'd love to have a nice hood made from all stainless with a 2500cfm rated fan that's also muffled/silenced so that you can hear a cricket fart over it. But that wasn't even on the same planet as my budget. :D
 
Looking at sometime this week... Just need to fit the burner legs with wheels and I should be good to go. Also exploring another hood option, so I might be doing a little modification. Looking to make it wider so that it can also go over the HLT. Otherwise, I might just heat up the sparge water on the stove and add it via the old school dump in method. :D

You have any of the mead I gave you yet? :D The maple gets really nice as it warms up. I also had some of the 8.9% old ale last night... :D :D :D Might be pulling a sample of the 12.5% wee heavy soon. If you have some free time Before the end of next weekend, let me know.
 
The one I have installed right now was on the shelf at Lowe's... :D Box had it rated at 500cfm, 8" diameter.

My Lowes doesn't have squat for fans, unless I'm looking in the wrong area (and my Lowes employees aren't too 'with it') - Was it over in the section with all the round / square duct work? All they had were the cheap in-line booster fans, nothing to act as a primary blower.
 
My Lowes doesn't have squat for fans, unless I'm looking in the wrong area (and my Lowes employees aren't too 'with it') - Was it over in the section with all the round / square duct work? All they had were the cheap in-line booster fans, nothing to act as a primary blower.

Then order one either from their site or Amazon. :D
 
Yeah yeah... I don't want to spend a whole bunch of money on a fan. I know I will eventually, but I need to waste countless hours researching less expensive options to eventually come to the conclusion that the only viable option is to spend more money on building this thing... :p
 
Yeah yeah... I don't want to spend a whole bunch of money on a fan. I know I will eventually, but I need to waste countless hours researching less expensive options to eventually come to the conclusion that the only viable option is to spend more money on building this thing... :p

Yeah... I have a line on an actual hood that could be large enough to cover two burners/keggles. :D Waiting for more information on it before I drive down to where it is.

I might upgrade the fan after the first use. Will see how it performs as is first. Also thinking about putting some thick plastic up against the joists so that no steam gets up to the insulation.
 
I still think it would be a good idea to throw a Carbon Monoxide detector in there just for safe measures. You can pick one up at Walmart for like $15, and while ya may not be exposed long enough to do a whole lot of damage, it can still make ya sick as hell. Pretty sweet set up though.
 

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