WLP007 vs Nottingham

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Tiroux

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Planning on a Dry & Pale English Barleywine that will go up to 10%.

I want it to ferment relatively dry (1090 to 1015) and be able to bottle condition.

The WLP007 appears to be the aromatic profile I want for this beer, but also appears that 10% might me a climax. I already experienced a yeast that dies before bottle condition, then the beer oxided in the bottle and I had to dump it. This Barleywine is going to be aged for 18 months, and will be offered to my father's 60th anniversary, so I don't it to poop on me.

I plan to bottle early and age in the bottle.

1-2 weeks primary
1 week secondary with DH
1 week cold crash to be as clear as possible before bottling.

Would Nottingham be a better/safer choice? Or just bottle with fresh Nottingham (especially after a long cold crash) ?

Thanks!
 
Tiroux said:
Planning on a Dry & Pale English Barleywine that will go up to 10%.

I want it to ferment relatively dry (1090 to 1015) and be able to bottle condition.

The WLP007 appears to be the aromatic profile I want for this beer, but also appears that 10% might me a climax. I already experienced a yeast that dies before bottle condition, then the beer oxided in the bottle and I had to dump it. This Barleywine is going to be aged for 18 months, and will be offered to my father's 60th anniversary, so I don't it to poop on me.

I plan to bottle early and age in the bottle.

1-2 weeks primary
1 week secondary with DH
1 week cold crash to be as clear as possible before bottling.

Would Nottingham be a better/safer choice? Or just bottle with fresh Nottingham (especially after a long cold crash) ?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Do you make a starter? If you are making that big of a beer with wlp007 (or any liquid yeast), you'll need to be sure you have enough yeast to ensure the yeast don't drop out.
 
Tiroux said:
Planning on a Dry & Pale English Barleywine that will go up to 10%.

I want it to ferment relatively dry (1090 to 1015) and be able to bottle condition.

The WLP007 appears to be the aromatic profile I want for this beer, but also appears that 10% might me a climax. I already experienced a yeast that dies before bottle condition, then the beer oxided in the bottle and I had to dump it. This Barleywine is going to be aged for 18 months, and will be offered to my father's 60th anniversary, so I don't it to poop on me.

I plan to bottle early and age in the bottle.

1-2 weeks primary
1 week secondary with DH
1 week cold crash to be as clear as possible before bottling.

Would Nottingham be a better/safer choice? Or just bottle with fresh Nottingham (especially after a long cold crash) ?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Where do you see that 10% is the death knell for this yeast? White Labs profile page says that the yeast works well in 10% abv beers.
 
scoundrel said:
Do you make a starter? If you are making that big of a beer with wlp007 (or any liquid yeast), you'll need to be sure you have enough yeast to ensure the yeast don't drop out.
Click to expand...

Of course. 2 steps starter for this one
 
highgravitybacon said:
Where do you see that 10% is the death knell for this yeast? White Labs profile page says that the yeast works well in 10% abv beers.
Click to expand...

People around, on forums. I don't doubt it can reach 10%, but would it be still in good shape to carb fine?
 
I'd recommend using 007 for the ferment then pitching another yeast for the bottle conditioning.
 
maida7 said:
I'd recommend using 007 for the ferment then pitching another yeast for the bottle conditioning.
Click to expand...

That might be the best way... That way I could cold crash for a week or over at really cold temp to clear out the beer prior to bottle...
Nottingham would resist a 10% shock?
 
Nottingham is a beast. You can go well over 10% with it. Many here use it in extremely high gravity barleywines with good results.
 
Ok... The last 2 replies tend to confirm my idea. Ferment out with 007 and bottle with Notty.

Thanks guys! Any imputs on temperature/flavor for the 007?
 
I like nottingham for high gravity as its easy to pitch a few packs and skip the starter and it doesn't need a ton of oxygen. I'd be worried about doing high gravity with a liquid yeast without pure O2.
 
gbx said:
I like nottingham for high gravity as its easy to pitch a few packs and skip the starter and it doesn't need a ton of oxygen. I'd be worried about doing high gravity with a liquid yeast without pure O2.
Click to expand...

Why is that dry yeast needs less oxygen that liquid?

Stir plate oxygenate well the starter, and a good shake of the fermenter works great.
 
Tiroux said:
Why is that dry yeast needs less oxygen that liquid?

Stir plate oxygenate well the starter, and a good shake of the fermenter works great.
Click to expand...


There are lots of threads on this, here is one https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/nottingham-yeast-does-not-require-aration-373715/

The other nice thing about nottingham is 2 or 3 packs of dry yeast takes up a lot less room than a 5 litre starter does if you are short on head space in your fermenter (another plus for notty - it doesn't put up the a huge krausen) and it doesn't dilute your wort at all.

but i don't want to sound like a nottingham salesmen, I've never liked it in anything less than 8% as its too clean, too much attenuation and just plain boring.
 
Tiroux said:
Planning on a Dry & Pale English Barleywine that will go up to 10%.

I want it to ferment relatively dry (1090 to 1015) and be able to bottle condition.

The WLP007 appears to be the aromatic profile I want for this beer, but also appears that 10% might me a climax. I already experienced a yeast that dies before bottle condition, then the beer oxided in the bottle and I had to dump it. This Barleywine is going to be aged for 18 months, and will be offered to my father's 60th anniversary, so I don't it to poop on me.

I plan to bottle early and age in the bottle.

1-2 weeks primary
1 week secondary with DH
1 week cold crash to be as clear as possible before bottling.

Would Nottingham be a better/safer choice? Or just bottle with fresh Nottingham (especially after a long cold crash) ?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

WLP-007 is a great yeast for big beers, it performs better than advertised. I've taken it to 12% abv with normal aeration (carboy shaking) and some yeast nutrient.

Why are you going to dry hop a beer that's going to age 18 months? Any dry hop remnants will be long gone by the time the party comes around.
Why are you going to cold crash a beer you are going to age 18 months? The time will clear this beer way better than one chilly week will.
Why add extra yeast to bottle when you are bottling after 1 month? You will have plenty of yeast left in suspension to carbonate after 1 month, whether you cold crash or not.

I say use one yeast don't mix them and forget the dry hop it won't be there when its time to enjoy this one.
 
gbx said:
There are lots of threads on this, here is one https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/nottingham-yeast-does-not-require-aration-373715/

The other nice thing about nottingham is 2 or 3 packs of dry yeast takes up a lot less room than a 5 litre starter does if you are short on head space in your fermenter (another plus for notty - it doesn't put up the a huge krausen) and it doesn't dilute your wort at all.

but i don't want to sound like a nottingham salesmen, I've never liked it in anything less than 8% as its too clean, too much attenuation and just plain boring.
Click to expand...






dannyhawkins said:
WLP-007 is a great yeast for big beers, it performs better than advertised. I've taken it to 12% abv with normal aeration (carboy shaking) and some yeast nutrient.

Why are you going to dry hop a beer that's going to age 18 months? Any dry hop remnants will be long gone by the time the party comes around.
Why are you going to cold crash a beer you are going to age 18 months? The time will clear this beer way better than one chilly week will.
Why add extra yeast to bottle when you are bottling after 1 month? You will have plenty of yeast left in suspension to carbonate after 1 month, whether you cold crash or not.

I say use one yeast don't mix them and forget the dry hop it won't be there when its time to enjoy this one.
Click to expand...

Of course the floral nose of the hops will be gone, but I thought some of grassy/resinous flavor would remain. I understand (and observe) that flavor decreases with time, but the extracted oils from the hops don't sublime in the bottle. Anyway... I'll have plenty of EKG since i'll buy a bulk for this beer so... 1-2 oz more can't be bad heh? Especially if it's a beer that will be aged, the hops are a good preservative.

For the cold crash, the trick is to get the clearer beer possible before the bottling so I don't get a thick sediment in the bottle.
 

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