DIN rail power distribution: a how-to guide

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paledragon

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my first build used the bulky 175 amp distribution block that seems to be pretty popular. i've made things a little easier for myself with my current project. for anyone wanting something smaller, modular, expandable, removable, and all around easier to use, DIN rail terminal blocks are the way to go. functionally, they all do the same thing though.

1. start with DIN rail, which can easily be cut with a hacksaw:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8961k15/

2. mount these on them (note the different wire and amp ratings):

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7641K51/

3. cover the open end of the block with one of these:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7641K33/

4. jumper the middle of the terminal blocks:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7641K15/

and you get:

IMG_06311.JPG


the gray plate is the end cap. the screws in the middle are the jumpers. so the picture here has 1 inlet wire and up to 7 outlet wires. a nice benefit is being able to order by color as well, so they can be matched up with the hots, neutral, and ground wire colors.

IMG_06332.JPG


the enclosure i used is 16" wide x 20" high by 8" deep.

p.d.
 
That looks great. Just curious, what are you using as a backboard? The white board that everything is mounted to. Is it mounted with stand-offs?
 
Nice write up. I already bought some terminal blocks on ebay but I may resell them go this route.
 
the enclosure comes with standoffs built in. you order a panel to fit into it separately. they both came from automation direct. the enclosure is part number N1C162008LP. the nice thing is you can build the panel outside the box, then just bolt it in.

the breakers came from mouser (part 845-1BU3R for the 3 amp breaker, 845-1BU1R for the 1 amp). the SSR's came from omega (http://www.omega.com/pptst/SSRDIN.html).

all the wiring is machine tool wire (MTW) from mcmaster.

p.d.
 
I am not the OP but use the same type of mounting panel.

Just curious, what are you using as a backboard? The white board that everything is mounted to.
The mounting panel shown is a painted steel panel made by the enclosure manufacturer.

Is it mounted with stand-offs?

Yes, welded to the enclosure.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB
 
the enclosure comes with standoffs built in. you order a panel to fit into it separately. they both came from automation direct. the enclosure is part number N1C162008LP. the nice thing is you can build the panel outside the box, then just bolt it in.

the breakers came from mouser (part 845-1BU3R for the 3 amp breaker, 845-1BU1R for the 1 amp). the SSR's came from omega (http://www.omega.com/pptst/SSRDIN.html).

all the wiring is machine tool wire (MTW) from mcmaster.

p.d.

I am not the OP but use the same type of mounting panel.


The mounting panel shown is a painted steel panel made by the enclosure manufacturer.



Yes, welded to the enclosure.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB

Great. Thanks guys.
 
BUMPing an old thread.

Is this still the best method, seems like a simple a clean method for electric setups.
 
The DIN mounted terminals and devices are becoming the industry standard, crimp on lugs, exposed screws on terminal strips are not done anymore. I may be one of the code "Nazi's" but i would hate to see someone hurt or killed by ignoring the best known methods and electrical codes used today.
 
kladue said:
The DIN mounted terminals and devices are becoming the industry standard, crimp on lugs, exposed screws on terminal strips are not done anymore. I may be one of the code "Nazi's" but i would hate to see someone hurt or killed by ignoring the best known methods and electrical codes used today.

I would like to do a control panel with as many din rail mounted components as possible. Anyone put there that has already put one together that has pictures and/or a parts list? I'm still trying to decide on input power (30 amp 240 is cheapest but I would like the actual control box componentry to not be limited or to have a selector switch to go between 30amp mode and a 50 or 60 amp mode). That suggests I include internal to the control box breakers, I would also like to have these din mounted. I am also still considering brewtroller or a bcs-400 type of setup. Looking for builds that I can use as a model. Thanks.
 
copyright1997 said:
I would like to do a control panel with as many din rail mounted components as possible. Anyone put there that has already put one together that has pictures and/or a parts list? I'm still trying to decide on input power (30 amp 240 is cheapest but I would like the actual control box componentry to not be limited or to have a selector switch to go between 30amp mode and a 50 or 60 amp mode). That suggests I include internal to the control box breakers, I would also like to have these din mounted. I am also still considering brewtroller or a bcs-400 type of setup. Looking for builds that I can use as a model. Thanks.
I will be offering DIN rail configurations. My terminal blocks were due in today, but DHL had other plans. Breakers are in stock as well as the rail. I'm trying to source contractors now. I'll be focusing on BCS but will have PID options too. All should work with Brewtroller as well.
 
hatrickwah said:
I will be offering DIN rail configurations. My terminal blocks were due in today, but DHL had other plans. Breakers are in stock as well as the rail. I'm trying to source contractors now. I'll be focusing on BCS but will have PID options too. All should work with Brewtroller as well.

I've been occasionally looking at your site. One thing I could suggest ( I know your are trying to ramp up) is larger enclosures. Given the stuff I want to cram in, I don't think the one listed on the site will do. Also, see the earlier posts on this thread about enclosures. I really like the idea of doing most of the work outside the panel box and then just installing the entire plane of din mounted stuff!
 
hatrickwah said:
I will be offering DIN rail configurations. My terminal blocks were due in today, but DHL had other plans. Breakers are in stock as well as the rail. I'm trying to source contractors now. I'll be focusing on BCS but will have PID options too. All should work with Brewtroller as well.

Almost forgot, I already have 3 contractors, 2 AB c30's and 1 C43, all din mountable. I could be talked into a 4th depending on the design.
 
The boxes I have allow you to remove the mounting panel from the inside, do the work and put them back in. As for more sizes, this will take time, larger and smaller maybe by Christmas. I'm still waiting to see where all this goes. I am trying to find adequate PIDs at the moment.
 
Hey guys, giving this a bump.

I got a kit for /\ /\ eBrewSupply.com and needed a little insight on these DIN connectors.

I get that these replace the bus bars, but I am confused on how to mount and wire these. I have a few parts that I am not sure what they are. I have provided them below and numbered them for assitance.

Questions on the extra parts:
1) An extra switch for the throw switches. Maybe used for a dual purpose switch or extra part?

2) Some type of space, what is it used for?

3) Another type of spacer, used on a single rail to block the current running between the connectors?

4) Some type of connector, not sure what its purpose is but I am assuming it has to do with the 2 hots, ground, and neutral.

5) Used to connect the connectors together? Not really sure...

extraparts_zps5d14cfd8.jpg


Also, once I wire up and mount the connectors on the DIN rail. How do I wire the main power (hot A, hot B, neutral, or ground) to the DIN rail? How do I prevent it from traveling through the rest of the DIN rail?

Second, is my box big enough to do an internal heatsink on the DIN rail for the SSR?

controlpanel_zpsc56059db.jpg
 
Dag nabbit. I JUST ORDERED FROM MCMASTER-CARR LAST NIGHT! Why didn't I see this thread a few days ago?

Anyway, I too am looking for a better way of connecting everything instead of using the terminal strips and these look like the perfect thing, since I'm already using DIN-mounted circuit breakers inside the control panel.

I'm no electrical expert, but...

1) is a "normally open" (NO) contactor for a button. I'm not sure, but most times you'd use this contactor instead of the NC (normally closed) contactor for our purposes.

2) No idea.

3) These look like end caps for the distribution blocks.

4) Some kind of ground distribution would be a good guess.

5) Yes, these look like they are used to move power from one terminal to the next one.
 
LandoLincoln - Have any idea how I wire the main power (hot A, hot B, neutral, or ground) to the DIN rail? How do I prevent it from traveling through the rest of the DIN rail?
 
LandoLincoln - Have any idea how I wire the main power (hot A, hot B, neutral, or ground) to the DIN rail? How do I prevent it from traveling through the rest of the DIN rail?

Just to be clear, the rail itself just holds the things together, no power actually runs through the rail. I'm pretty sure you knew that, but just in case...

So you'd attach one of the main wires (let's use hot A as an example) to one side of one of the terminals and then you'd use that jumper strip to connect a whole bunch of terminal blocks together, and then connect the wires that need the power to the other side of the terminal blocks.

You'd think that there would be kind of metal contacts on each side of the terminal blocks so that if you lined them all up on a DIN rail they'd all be electrically connected, and then you'd attach the end plugs on the end blocks to stop the power flowing any further than that. Are there metal contacts on each side of the blocks?

I'd connect a whole bunch together without the jumper strip and then use a multimeter to test for continuity at various points. And then if there isn't an electrical continuity, then figure out how to attach that jumper strip and then test again.
 
Otho k the #4 is the jumper switch you are referring to. What size spade terminals can these connectors take? I tried fitting a #6, but it won't fit
 
The original poster linked to and used the 6mm width 30 amp 22-10 wire gage blocks. If I was planning on bringing power in from my 50amp spa panel/disconnect on 6awg (6/4) wire would there be any issue other than cost with using the 10mm width 65 amp 20-6 wire blocks? http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/749/=m2v09c

Obviously I would have to get the matching end plates and jumper strips for those blocks.

And to clarify my thinking in a typical layout where do the contactors fit into the chain if you want an e stop that cuts power to the box?
 
And to clarify my thinking in a typical layout where do the contactors fit into the chain if you want an e stop that cuts power to the box?

I'm in the process of wiring one of these myself, so I haven't tried this yet, but this is how I'm thinking it would work...

You'd have a terminal block to accept power from one side of the 50a 240v service. Call that block 1. Block 1's only function is to provide power to the contactor's coil. Block 1 is first connected in series to a 1 amp fast-blow fuse, then the e-stop button, and then the e-stop button is connected in series to the positive side of the contactor coil. Then you'd need to run the negative side of the coil and tie it to the negative of the electrical current for the circuit to work right.

You'd have a second terminal block (block 2) that is electrically tied to block 1, and the output of that block would go to the one of the input legs (let's call it leg 1) of the contactor.

You'd have a block 3 to accept power from the other side of the 50a 240v service. Block 3 wires into the other side of the input legs (leg 2) of the contactor.

Now you'd take a wire from the output side of the contactor's leg 1 and wire THAT into block 4. Block 4 is now responsible for powering one side (120v) of the rest of the system.

Take a wire from the output side of the contactor's leg 2 and wire that into block 5. Block 5 is now responsible for powering the other 120v of the rest of the system.

And you'd also need a block for the neutral, for other neutral blocks to connect to.

That sound logical? I think so.
 
To switch 120V, you can use a 2-pole (DPDT) contractor with a 120V coil. One set of contacts switches the hot wire, the other acts as a latch for a momentary "ON" switch (N.O.). An E-stop (N.C.) in series with the coil overrides the latch.

To switch 240V, you can use a 3-pole contactor with 120V or 240V coil in a similar way to switch both hot wires.
 
The original poster linked to and used the 6mm width 30 amp 22-10 wire gage blocks. If I was planning on bringing power in from my 50amp spa panel/disconnect on 6awg (6/4) wire would there be any issue other than cost with using the 10mm width 65 amp 20-6 wire blocks? http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/749/=m2v09c

Obviously I would have to get the matching end plates and jumper strips for those blocks.

And to clarify my thinking in a typical layout where do the contactors fit into the chain if you want an e stop that cuts power to the box?

I ordered the 6/4 blocks from McMaster in my current build since I have 6 ga wire coming in. I hope to get the DIN rail and everything mounted to it today. I ordered several black, red, white, and the yellow/green grounding blocks.
 
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