STC 1000 "Ebay" Temperature Controller Build

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JuanMoore said:
If it doesn't say STC-1000 on it, it could very well be the similar single stage unit. If so, since you're using it for a keezer, it should work just fine. I have one installed in the collar of my keezer. Let me know if you have questions with the wiring, since it's a little different than the STC-1000.

And I don't know if wiring two controllers in series is such a good idea. There's a lot of issues that could create, and it doesn't really protect against much. A controller dying is much more likely to cut power completely rather than freeze the beer, which a second controller wired in series won't fix. Even if a controller does freeze your beer from a malfunction, it won't really hurt your beer.

I appreciate the advice. I'll think about it as I build the collar. Since the Johnson controller is already on the way with other components I may just return this one to my friend. I don't like the thought of buying and connecting power outlets to it.
 
If it doesn't say STC-1000 on it, it could very well be the similar single stage unit. If so, since you're using it for a keezer, it should work just fine. I have one installed in the collar of my keezer. Let me know if you have questions with the wiring, since it's a little different than the STC-1000.

And I don't know if wiring two controllers in series is such a good idea. There's a lot of issues that could create, and it doesn't really protect against much. A controller dying is much more likely to cut power completely rather than freeze the beer, which a second controller wired in series won't fix. Even if a controller does freeze your beer from a malfunction, it won't really hurt your beer.

This is the device I'm talking about. It looks nearly identical:
temp_controller_top.jpg
temp_controller_front.jpg


Well if two in series isn't a good idea, I'll probably just use the Johnson controller, since I already paid for it, I don't want to deal with purchasing/wiring power outlets, and its display is in Fahrenheit. I appreciate the advice. Thanks!
 
This is the device I'm talking about. It looks nearly identical:

Well if two in series isn't a good idea, I'll probably just use the Johnson controller, since I already paid for it, I don't want to deal with purchasing/wiring power outlets, and its display is in Fahrenheit. I appreciate the advice. Thanks!

That is the STC-1000, not the single stage unit.

Wiring one controller downstream from another really is a bad idea for many reasons, and if you're not totally comfortable with wiring outlets, that's even more reason to just use the johnson. Good luck!
 
Anyone know if the STC-1000 will push enough amps to start up a Holiday 7cu chest freezer set up in my garage?

Here are some specs from the back of the freezer:
Voltage: 115v~60Hz
Amps:1.70A
Startup Amps: 12A
 
Anyone know if the STC-1000 will push enough amps to start up a Holiday 7cu chest freezer set up in my garage?

Here are some specs from the back of the freezer:
Voltage: 115v~60Hz
Amps:1.70A
Startup Amps: 12A

You should be fine. There is some debate about the actual rating of the relay, but either way it's close enough to 12A that it shouldn't be an issue. If the running load were close to the rating, then it could be an issue, but the startup draw only lasts a split second. I popped the cover on my controller, and the relays say 15A @ 125V.
 
You should be fine. There is some debate about the actual rating of the relay, but either way it's close enough to 12A that it shouldn't be an issue. If the running load were close to the rating, then it could be an issue, but the startup draw only lasts a split second. I popped the cover on my controller, and the relays say 15A @ 125V.


How'd you get the cover off? I'm still considering returning it so i dont want to break it or void a return policy somehow.
 
How'd you get the cover off? I'm still considering returning it so i dont want to break it or void a return policy somehow.

I honestly don't remember, it was a couple years ago. I do remember that I had to slice the wiring diagram sticker on top of the unit, so it will be apparent that it's been open if you try to return it. I think someone has directions with pics for taking it apart in the main STC-1000 thread (for replacing the transformer for those who ordered the 220V unit on accident), but that thread's 3,000+ posts long.
 
How'd you get the cover off? I'm still considering returning it so i dont want to break it or void a return policy somehow.

In order to get the cover off you must either cut or remove part of the label on the top of the STC-1000. Cut it where the front section joins up to the cover. Then carefully spread the tabs on each side and slide the cover back off the unit. There isn't a way of doing this that is not obvious to anyone looking at the unit that it has been disassembled.
 
just one thing to point out that the contacts are only rated for 10 amps. A pair of fuses would be a good thing to add. For my deep freeze I had to run an external relay.

That rating is at 220v, is it still 10 amps at 110v?
 
That rating is at 220v, is it still 10 amps at 110v?

Most of the relays are rated for 15A @ 125V. The rating of the contacts and other components at lower voltages is debatable, but should be at least 10A, and probably slightly more.
 
Here is a question from a total novice. Why do you go through all the wiring joining and use the ground as neutral? Can't you just run power to the unit, one set of in wire, and then one set of wires from cooling to the plug as well as the heating to plug? I note there is not ground wire used.
 
On my diagram, all grounds are connected, all neutrals, and all constant hots. The only neutral that goes into the controller is to power it. Everything else is constant or switched
 
I see all that now, thanks! On this setup you were going to run a frig and fan. Run the frig on the cool cycle and the fan on the heat? Or run both on the cool? Or wire one outlet constant on and run the fan constant on?
 
Ok I’m on the hunt for an old fridge to use as a fermentation chamber for my 1 gal batches and have this device on the way from HK. I’m going to follow these wiring instructions and I think this will be an easy build. Now I have some dumb questions. So you set the fridge temp to the max (warm) and then use the STC1000 to control the cold to keep it at your desired fermentation temps? My fridge will be outside here in GA. So it won’t get too cold this winter but I can see some dips into the 30s. Will I need to run some sort of heating device on the heat outlet or will the fridge maintain a constant 58-70 degrees? I think I understand what this device will do but want to make sure I have it set up properly to maintain my temps. I will have to re-read this thread.


Now reading the post above why would you have a fan on the cooling cycle? I thought you would want your fridge on this outlet. I guess this is where I get confused??
 
wmarkw said:
Ok I’m on the hunt for an old fridge to use as a fermentation chamber for my 1 gal batches and have this device on the way from HK. I’m going to follow these wiring instructions and I think this will be an easy build. Now I have some dumb questions. So you set the fridge temp to the max (warm) and then use the STC1000 to control the cold to keep it at your desired fermentation temps? My fridge will be outside here in GA. So it won’t get too cold this winter but I can see some dips into the 30s. Will I need to run some sort of heating device on the heat outlet or will the fridge maintain a constant 58-70 degrees? I think I understand what this device will do but want to make sure I have it set up properly to maintain my temps. I will have to re-read this thread.

Now reading the post above why would you have a fan on the cooling cycle? I thought you would want your fridge on this outlet. I guess this is where I get confused??



I have two outlets, one for heating and one for cooling. The fan is plugged into the cooling outlet with the fridge. If you're gonna get down to the 30s I would definitely get a heater. Walmart sells a personal heater that'll work for around $11. You have to make sure it's not computerized otherwise it'll need a user to manually turn on and won't work for this application
 
So it won’t get too cold this winter but I can see some dips into the 30s. Will I need to run some sort of heating device on the heat outlet or will the fridge maintain a constant 58-70 degrees?
You'll almost certainly need a heat source in the fridge then as well, unless your ferments are putting out a lot of heat.

Now reading the post above why would you have a fan on the cooling cycle? I thought you would want your fridge on this outlet. I guess this is where I get confused??
If you use a duplex outlet for each function (heat and cool and maybe one constant hot) then you can plug two devices in - so the refrigerator and fan can both be on the cool circuit.
 
Oh that looks neat. I don't see why you couldn't use that. You can also probably get the thermostat in it just set where you want, at least for the cooling. Naturally would still need a heat source as well if the ambient temp is going to be below your desired ferment temp. That style might be easier to use for 1 gallon batches because of the shelves.
 
Ahh yes that makes sense. It will be in my garage which doesnt get much light. Cool.
 
Be aware that some EBAY sellers have jacked the price 10X because "low supply". I asked the question and he answered.
 
Quite a lot of us have ordered them from Ebay Seller Mixtea. His turnaround from China is really fast. I ordered 2 more of them on Monday, and it looks like according to the tracking info I should have them when I get home.

This will be the third I've ordered from him. His state whether or not they are 110. Here.

That's a good piece of mind. I happened to order one from him a few hours ago for a build.
 
I pick one up from amazon and it came straight from china. It took maybe ten days to get to my door. Same price as the ebay one and free shipping.
 
I will be running the standard build of this unit on a GE 7 Cuf chest freezer. Should I also be adding a 10a fuse before the unit? I read through A LOT of the megathread and never noticed anyone mentioning adding a fuse.

Thanks
 
In this application, a fuse isn't really necessary, since you have the upstream breaker at 15A or 20A. Obviously you would need to bear in mind you wouldn't really want a continuous load of more than 10A on it. The relays apparantely say 15A on them, but that doesn't necessarily mean the screw connectors and solder traces on the board can handle that much. You could certainly put in a fuse if you want to. Some people like to have a 1A fuse going to the STC's control power. I would imagine it has a fusible link on the circuit board anyway for the control power though I could be wrong.
 
Side note on the STC-1000: I compared the temperature reading to a much more expensive instrument, and the STC-1000 was within 0.2C at room temperature. That's much better than I expected at this price.
 
That is nice. And if you did happen to nice a relatively constant offset vs a calibrated source in your target control range, it has an offset you can set to compensate for the displayed value.
 
oops, should have read the rest of the thread before posting. I see others have already pointed out the schematic errors.

ether side would work, I put it inline with income power. I would use a 10 amp slow blow type, or a 12/14 amp regular blow. Motors have a significant in rush current that can burn a fast blow fuse.



Sorry gatorbite87, I'm going to take you to the wood shed over this. The point of a fuse is to prevent a fire when things don't "run perfectly" The outlet in your wall has at worst a 20 amp circuit breaker. The controller is rated for 10 amps. You need a fuse. Have you see this guy:
alstate.jpg


this is what I did:

STC1000.png


basically there are two SSR one for each side (Heat / Cool) the ones I found were 40 amp but can be triggered by 12~24 vdc/ac The two diodes are 1 amp rectifiers. Ether heat or cool come on the fan will run and the diodes give (albeit lumpy) dc to a computer fan inside to keep air moving. If your SSR's can handle ac input adding a diode or 4 with a cap to the output of the transformer will make them happier.



what your looking for is called a process timer. I have one that i scrounged many years ago, just a quick look through ebay it don't look like it. there are other ones from omega and the like but the sellers want unreasonable amounts of money for them!!!! What range of timing are you looking for? What kind of outputs?
The relays on this diagram appear to me to be hooked up incorrectly. The coil and contacts seem to be reversed from what they should be.
 
Hello All, this may have already been posted in this thread, but I purchased two of these from Amazon for $49 on 07 Nov and they shipped that day and arrived in my mailbox today from China.
 
Hello All, this may have already been posted in this thread, but I purchased two of these from Amazon for $49 on 07 Nov and they shipped that day and arrived in my mailbox today from China.

Yep. Mine came with a bunch of Chinese writing on it and customs declaration. Made it across the pacific and to Texas in something like 9 days. Pretty remarkable.
 
Ok, so I got my temp controller built and it seems to be working good but I have one question. Can you drill into the side of a fridge? Just the old school fridge on bottom and freezer on top fridge. I want to mount my controller to the side of it but don't know if I will drill into lines and destroy my fridge. Any input would be helpful.
 
I think that the coolant lines in a fridge are generally in the back... but I am not sure and I wouldn't drill. Maybe you can find a service manual for your fridge?

You could also consider using industrial-strength Velcro. That's good stuff.
 
Horseflesh said:
I think that the coolant lines in a fridge are generally in the back... but I am not sure and I wouldn't drill. Maybe you can find a service manual for your fridge?

You could also consider using industrial-strength Velcro. That's good stuff.

Velcro is a good idea. Thanks for the help
 
Just got my STC-1000 today, working on the project box tonight. Can't wait to fire up that craigslist freezer and actually have controlled ferments instead of the texas closet temp!
 

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