BLING BLING Electric HERMS Conversion

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I'll try and look around. Maybe it was another build somewhere. They cut a copper grounding ring from sheet copper and I think you just grounded your HLT to your frame.
 
LKHA said:
has anybody found a ss fitting for the element for a weld application?
Click to expand...

Heck, you could just get the straight thread nut from BargainFittings and weld it on, then screw the element into that. Thing is, just drilling a hole and using the nut on the inside of the kettle does the same thing with less hassle.
 
what is the thickness of the nut I know I could just use the o-ring I have the capability in the garage to do full weld system and never worry about leaks
 
LKHA said:
what is the thickness of the nut I know I could just use the o-ring I have the capability in the garage to do full weld system and never worry about leaks
Click to expand...

How so? You either:
  1. cut a hole, put the element through and use the nut with an o-ring
    or
  2. cut a hole, weld the nut and screw the element in using an o-ring.

#1 sounds easier since both still have potential to leak.
 
Baron ken said:
How so? You either:
  1. cut a hole, put the element through and use the nut with an o-ring
    or
  2. cut a hole, weld the nut and screw the element in using an o-ring.

#1 sounds easier since both still have potential to leak.
Click to expand...

Yep... no real difference there
 
Baron ken said:
How so? You either:
  1. cut a hole, put the element through and use the nut with an o-ring
    or
  2. cut a hole, weld the nut and screw the element in using teflon tape.

#1 sounds easier since both still have potential to leak.
Click to expand...

Some may be more comfortable with hit threads with teflon over using an o-ring they can crush.
 
Anyone got a source for the GFCI extension cord previously mentioned? They are no longer available on E-bay I don't believe...
 
illin8 said:
Anyone got a source for the GFCI extension cord previously mentioned? They are no longer available on E-bay I don't believe...
Click to expand...

Last I looked, they are hard to find, pretty pricey... almost the cost of a GFCI breaker.
 
I just bought one of those from Ohio-Ed on the forums here and I hooked it up and it's awesome. It's 17 feet long and very well made. I went this route since Square D Homeline series 30 amp GFCI's are $163.
 
zinger084 said:
I just bought one of those from Ohio-Ed on the forums here and I hooked it up and it's awesome. It's 17 feet long and very well made. I went this route since Square D Homeline series 30 amp GFCI's are $163.
Click to expand...

OUCH! I just got a Cutler-Hammer 50A GFCI for $99 at Menards a couple weeks back, thought that was bad.
 
most of the items here for my PID, SSR box now to put it together will post some pics when done
 
LKHA said:
rethinking my switch choice at this time going to look for a wet application switch any ideas need two one for main power and for pump
Click to expand...

You can use standard switches with those outdoor waterproof covers

If you could find a suitable toggle, you could get a rubber waterproof boot for it....
 
yes looking for a wet location switch or will use second box
is what i am thinking I have seen a rotary style cover that operates a standard style switch and all will be good
7445778.jpg
 
I'm not sure exactly what you're looking for, so forgive me if I'm way out in left field. But I bought Pol's rig, and what my EE friend is doing is hooking me up to a "spa box". I felt silly asking him what that was, but he explained that it's a box designed for spas. That way it's a GFI build from the box up. He told me that hot tubs and water have similar requirements to an electric rig, so a spa box and those type of services would be ideal for me.

I'm sure there must be a switch like that, but probably not cheap.
 
the switches are the pump and element switches on the front cover I am going to use the one like in the pix
 
For all who do not know I am attempting to install a quick coupler for the RTD on my panel and the connections are I would say approx. a 22 gauge and I am working on coming up with the correct connections. I have emailed the vendor on this small snag in the project. I am working on the lay out of the panel box and will soon start the construction phase. alot of planning but it will all pay off in the end
 
LKHA said:
For all who do not know I am attempting to install a quick coupler for the RTD on my panel and the connections are I would say approx. a 22 gauge and I am working on coming up with the correct connections. I have emailed the vendor on this small snag in the project. I am working on the lay out of the panel box and will soon start the construction phase. alot of planning but it will all pay off in the end
Click to expand...

I'm sorry for chiming in here on Pol's thread. A RTD is a low voltage non-specific metal device. (unlike a Thermocouple) So, any type on quick connector will work fine, even audio type connectors. As long as it connects wire to wire.
 
yes just received a email and was told can uses any wire another hurdle cleared this place is like having a genie in a bottle just ask and the answers come in and we all learn
 
For the 4 wires coming into the control panel, the 2 hots and neutral go to the distribution block and the ground goes to the ground bar right?
 

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