All-Grain Brewing with Extract Brewing Equipment (pics)

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Saccharomyces said:
Missed this thread until now... nicely done.

I have been using this method for quite awhile to do experimental batches since it is pretty much set-and-forget -- I can get a batch brewed during the day while doing other stuff. It works great, and the efficiency is very stable at around 75-80%. I use a 3 gallon pot for 2.5 gallons and add foam control drops to prevent boilovers. It's a tight squeeze but it can be done.
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Thank you!

That's one thing I really like about this method. While I was working on my latest brew, I cleaned up my family room, did a load of laundry, talked to a friend on the phone, and smoked a cigar. All while my grains were mashing or wort boiling. Set-it-and-forget-it, the late Billy Mays himself couldn't have said it better himself.


Saccharomyces said:
YMMV but I found with experimentation my oven will hold the mash at 149*F if set to 170*F, 175*F will hold at 152*F, and 180*F will hold at 155*F. 200*F for 15 minutes does a quick mash-out. :)
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When you raise your oven temp to 200F, does it really raise your wort temp to above 170F for mash-out in 15 minutes? I haven't bothered doing a mash-out, because my sparge water takes care of that for me, what advantage do you see to doing this?
 
DRoyLenz said:
I did a grist to water ratio of 1.25 qts/lb (10 quarts strike water)
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That's interesting that you're using such a low water ratio and still getting good efficiency. Deathbrewer's stovetop PM tutorial said to use high water ratios (at least 1.5 qt/lb, preferably 2.0 qt/lb) because a super loose mash is needed to get decent efficiency with BIAB. (I'm not sure what the science behind it is though).
I've been getting efficiency around 50% with 2.0 qt/lb ratio, so maybe I'll try a 1.5 qt/lb or 1.25 qt/lb ratio next. I don't really care about efficiency too much - just use more grain - but being able to use less water and fit more into the pot sure would be convenient.
 
DRoyLenz said:
When you raise your oven temp to 200F, does it really raise your wort temp to above 170F for mash-out in 15 minutes? I haven't bothered doing a mash-out, because my sparge water takes care of that for me, what advantage do you see to doing this?
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Gets it up in the 160's. It isn't necessary I suppose, but I mash thin (2 qt/lb) so there isn't a lot of sparge water.
 
Just cracked open my first bottle of this brew. Now, I'm recovering from the flu, so I can't trust my sense of taste and smell too much, but wow. This is probably the "cleanest" brew I've made to date. This is the first time that I feel like I might be drinking a commercial brew, not a homebrew.

The head looks great, and I'm getting nice lacing on the glass. The color is perfect for a wit, and it has got a nice haze to it (preferable for a wit). It has less "orange" character than most wits, and more "citrus" notes (I know orange is citrus) and I think this is because I decided to add the zested lemon peel. The aroma (from what I can tell with my slight congestion) is a light, flowery, citrus smell. I am VERY pleased with the results, and I can't wait to share it with my friends and family.

EDIT: I'll post a picture up next time I get a chance to snap a pic.
EDIT #2: I just found out, the burps are quite delightful :drunk:
 
Just mashed in on my 4th recipe using this method, BierMuncher's Centennial Blonde. It's the second installment in a series of small Pale Ale recipes. I'm on the hunt for my House Ale. When I fine tune the recipe I like, I'll be keeping it on tap (well, in bottles until I get a kegging setup) and I'll be brewing it for my friend's wedding next August. Last Monday, I brewed up EdWort's Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale.

If anyone has any recommendations on other recipes I should try, let me know!
 
This is a great, all-encompassing, write-up. I'd seen those others but still feared making the step without the extra equipment. After i use my extract kits (which i hope to get for christmas), i'll be looking at doing this. Thanks!
 
nbspindel said:
This is a great, all-encompassing, write-up. I'd seen those others but still feared making the step without the extra equipment. After i use my extract kits (which i hope to get for christmas), i'll be looking at doing this. Thanks!
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That's great, I'm glad I could help you out. If you have any questions while planning this out, just give me a shout.

Just pitched the yeast and put it in the fermentation chamber. The hydro sample tastes great and I got 75%+ efficiency again. Had to use duct tape on the airlock because I lost the grommet, so I doubt I'm going to be seeing that satisfying bubbling when I wake up tomorrow :(
 
Just wanted to say thanks to the OP for the thread. This and the threads you derived your information are great, I'm a newer brewer with limited space so I plan on definitely trying my hand at AG and using your methods.

I have access to the restaurant depot so going to go pick up some nice big pots :)

tcklord said:
Sorry to be a little :off: but if your electric stove will fit a canning element you could try that to improve your boil. I purchased one for my stove off ebay for 22.58 shipped. I also only have a 20qt kettle but I was able to get that to boil about an inch from the top without too much trouble when I installed it. The one I purchased is a 2600 watt element http://cgi.ebay.com/MP26KA-Electric...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5ad43a073e
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My electric stove has 1 big burner and 3 little ones... does this replace the big burner or can I replace a little one too? I can't tell from the pics if it will stick up higher than the stock burner
 
I must ask the OP a question. First though, great post and thank you for the pictures. I too am a stovetop brewer, and I do mostly 2.5 gallon batches AG. I have a flattop stove, but if I split the boil into 2 pots its no problem.

I want to ask you why you do not put the mash in your oven? I have found that if I preheat my oven to about 180 or so, and turn it off just before I mash in, even with the crappy pots and no towel my temperature does not move even a little bit after 60 mins.

I have yet to test my efficiency, though.

Does your temp budge much (sorry if you already said so?)?
 
jjones17 said:
I must ask the OP a question. First though, great post and thank you for the pictures. I too am a stovetop brewer, and I do mostly 2.5 gallon batches AG. I have a flattop stove, but if I split the boil into 2 pots its no problem.

I want to ask you why you do not put the mash in your oven? I have found that if I preheat my oven to about 180 or so, and turn it off just before I mash in, even with the crappy pots and no towel my temperature does not move even a little bit after 60 mins.

I have yet to test my efficiency, though.

Does your temp budge much (sorry if you already said so?)?
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I'm not sure if I mentioned this in an earlier post, but yes, I do use my oven now. This was something someone had recommended to me, and it is working great for me.

However, even using the towel method described, I still maintained a pretty good temperature. I might have to pour a quart or two of hot water in the kettle somewhere throughout the hour to maintain the temps, but it works for you average economy brewer. I definitely recommend setting your oven to 170-180 if possible though, that works even better.
 
sethga said:
Just wanted to say thanks to the OP for the thread. This and the threads you derived your information are great, I'm a newer brewer with limited space so I plan on definitely trying my hand at AG and using your methods.

I have access to the restaurant depot so going to go pick up some nice big pots :)
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Oh, and I'm very glad to help you out. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
 
Just remember, if you want to do a 5 gallon fermentation, just rinse and repeat. Inefficient, yes, but if you don't have a big pot or don't have the BTU's to boil a big pot why not? It just means drinking a few more, right? 2x Mash, sparg, boil, cool, dump. Then pitch. Viola! 5 gallons fermenting.
 
jjones17 said:
I must ask the OP a question. First though, great post and thank you for the pictures. I too am a stovetop brewer, and I do mostly 2.5 gallon batches AG. I have a flattop stove, but if I split the boil into 2 pots its no problem.

I want to ask you why you do not put the mash in your oven? I have found that if I preheat my oven to about 180 or so, and turn it off just before I mash in, even with the crappy pots and no towel my temperature does not move even a little bit after 60 mins.

I have yet to test my efficiency, though.

Does your temp budge much (sorry if you already said so?)?
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My oven doesn't have a setting for 150°F. I'm hesitant to put it in the oven where it starts (200°F, I think.) But mainly, I don't need it *shrug*...I've never have a problem with maintaining the temp with just a little insulation (blankets, towels, bungee cords) and even when I didn't use that stuff and the temp dropped, it made awesome beer.

I'm glad it works for some people, but with all the different ovens and variation, I'd be concerned about heating the mash up above my target gravity. I'd much rather let it drop then have it rise.

EDIT: lol, I thought this was my thread for some reason. Oh well...opinion still stands :)
 
My ten gallon pot would not fit in my oven. I just cover it and put it down in an old sleeping bag. Last brew I did this way I lost 1* over a hour, it was around 50* outside that day too.
 
Looks like there are about 9 empty bottles on the counter where you brew. I wanna come brew with you, fun............but dangerous!
 
I did my first AG (a 2.5 gal. batch of a Simcoe/Citra IPA) this weekend using this method. Things went pretty well. The only problem that I had was keeping the mash water at my target temperature of 155 the whole hour. My brew kettle will not fit in my oven so I had to wrap my kettle in towels, blankets, etc. I warmed my water to 165 (expecting a loss of temp when adding the grains), put my grains in, stirred and took the temp, only to find that it was 152. So, I had to add some hot water a couple of times through the mashing process, and was never able to keep it at a constant 155. Unfortunately, I forgot to account for the water I added to my mash and had a little over the 2.5 gallons that I intended, and my OG was off a little.

So, things did not go as well as I wished. However, one thing that I have learned in the short time that I have been homebrewing is to not get too worked up over what you are brewing. I checked this morning, and it is bubbling away so I know that I made beer. I will just have to wait to see what the finished product is.
 
Chuckus95 said:
I did my first AG (a 2.5 gal. batch of a Simcoe/Citra IPA) this weekend using this method. Things went pretty well. The only problem that I had was keeping the mash water at my target temperature of 155 the whole hour. My brew kettle will not fit in my oven so I had to wrap my kettle in towels, blankets, etc. I warmed my water to 165 (expecting a loss of temp when adding the grains), put my grains in, stirred and took the temp, only to find that it was 152. So, I had to add some hot water a couple of times through the mashing process, and was never able to keep it at a constant 155. Unfortunately, I forgot to account for the water I added to my mash and had a little over the 2.5 gallons that I intended, and my OG was off a little.

So, things did not go as well as I wished. However, one thing that I have learned in the short time that I have been homebrewing is to not get too worked up over what you are brewing. I checked this morning, and it is bubbling away so I know that I made beer. I will just have to wait to see what the finished product is.
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One thing that I've learned about with this method (and pretty much most basic AG methods) is that the temperature you read right after mash in is very unreliable. You really have to give it a few minutes for the grains to mix in and the temperatures to even out. I've taken readings right after mash in to find that my temperature dropped 10 more degrees than it should've, started freaking and heating up a bunch more strike water to raise the temp, only to go back and find out that after 5 minutes, the temperature was right on. I've found that if you do the calculations correct, you'll come out close enough (usually right on).

That being said, I won't presume to say that was your issue. Like you said, it was happening throughout the hour. I had moderately good success with a tightly wrapped towel, and much better success in a low-heated oven. But, for the purposes of a somebody new to AG brewing, adding hot water will do the trick, just take that into consideration and do a longer boil (which you admittedly didn't do).

I'm guessing you're going to come out with a great beer (unless yo uscrewed the pooch on other parts of the brew process).
:mug:
 
Thanks for the advice DRoy and for the original post.

When I got home from work yesterday, my Simcoe/Citra was still bubbling away. However, I was still a little upset with myself, so I decided to brew an AG Bitter. I used Brew365 to calculate the temp of my strike water, and, after adding the grains, I waited 15 minutes, checked the temp of the mash, only to find that I was off 2 degrees again (152 instead of 154). I added a little water, stirred and check the temp again. However, when I checked the temp, I, for some reason, grabbed a different thermometer. The second thermometer measured 154 degrees. Out of curiosity, I put my original thermometer in, and it still measured 152. My conclusion is that my original thermometer (which I used on my first batch) was the culprit.

After the initial addition of water, the mash stayed at 154 degrees the rest of the way. I think that my problem is now solved.

The rest of the second AG experience went pretty well. Although my hops additions were supposed to be at 60, 20 and 10, with irish moss at 15. However, when I put my irish moss in, I, inexplicably, grabbed my last hop addition, and put it in as well. I know that the 5 extra minutes probably won't affect the beer that much, but I am still very irritated that I made that mistake.

Oh well, I checked this morning and the bitter is bubbling away. Now, I just have to wait a month or so to taste the final product.

Thanks again DRoy for the advice and for the original post.
 
Chuckus95 said:
Thanks for the advice DRoy and for the original post.

When I got home from work yesterday, my Simcoe/Citra was still bubbling away. However, I was still a little upset with myself, so I decided to brew an AG Bitter. I used Brew365 to calculate the temp of my strike water, and, after adding the grains, I waited 15 minutes, checked the temp of the mash, only to find that I was off 2 degrees again (152 instead of 154). I added a little water, stirred and check the temp again. However, when I checked the temp, I, for some reason, grabbed a different thermometer. The second thermometer measured 154 degrees. Out of curiosity, I put my original thermometer in, and it still measured 152. My conclusion is that my original thermometer (which I used on my first batch) was the culprit.

After the initial addition of water, the mash stayed at 154 degrees the rest of the way. I think that my problem is now solved.

The rest of the second AG experience went pretty well. Although my hops additions were supposed to be at 60, 20 and 10, with irish moss at 15. However, when I put my irish moss in, I, inexplicably, grabbed my last hop addition, and put it in as well. I know that the 5 extra minutes probably won't affect the beer that much, but I am still very irritated that I made that mistake.

Oh well, I checked this morning and the bitter is bubbling away. Now, I just have to wait a month or so to taste the final product.

Thanks again DRoy for the advice and for the original post.
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I'm glad you worked it out. I'm still relatively new to brewing, about 12 batches in, and I'll tell you, I do something wrong everytime. The degree of which varies, from screwed up hop schedules to dropping things in the cooled wort, but I almost never repeat the same error twice. It's all part of learning. Happy Brewing and let me know if you have any more questions!
 
I goofed this method up a bit this past wknd during the sparge. Instead of putting my grainbag back in the kettle and then slowly pouring sparge water over the grain, I put all the sparge water into the kettle first and then just threw the grainbag in and started stirring. Still came out pretty close to the expected OG anyway.

Otherwise it was a fun first 2.5 gallon AG brew :) Thanks for the tips. I brewed up Biermuncher's Oktoberfast Ale scaled down to 2.5 gallons in Beersmith. Bubbling away nicely at around 2.75 gallons at 1.058 for 3 days now. Ferm chamber is set at 61-62F.

Note 1 : Preheating the oven to 170 (and then turning it off as soon as I put my kettle in) resulted in only losing 0.4degrees over the full hour (went from 154.2 to 153.8 over 60 minutes). Note that I didn't open up the oven to stir at all. Next time I probably will. Might need more hot mash water if I do.

Note 2: I heated my sparge water to 178 degrees, but when I put in my grain and stirred I could only get the grain bed up to 161 degrees. I stirred for 10 mins and it was OK. Next time I'll push my sparge water up to 185 or so to try and get the grain bed up closer to 170 (but not over so as to prevent tannins).

Note 3: I'm too cheap to spend $25 on an aluminum 8 gallon pot (Walmart has em in stock right now!) and/or $40-50 on a cooler MLT, so this method fits my apartment brewing spot on.
 
I'm gonna be using this method for an american wheat, hopefully this weekend. Thanks to the OP and DeathBrewer for their tutorials to help this n00b make goodazz bier!

:rockin:

:mug:

BTW I dont see a pic of the final product like promised... but it's been a year...lol
 
Great tutorial for making the transition to AG- and also BIAB. I was fortunate that I snagged a bargain on a 30 qt. SS pot when I started brewing, so that two years later, when I was ready to go AG, it served quite well to make full 5-gallon batches.*

*Note1: Five gallon extract batches were marginal for me on our kitchen stove until I insulated the brewpot.

*Note2: A full 6.5 boil in a 7.5 gal pot is possible, but I believe my use of Fermcap-S has made it far, far easier to eliminate the boilover issue.
 
rico567 said:
*Note1: Five gallon extract batches were marginal for me on our kitchen stove until I insulated the brewpot.
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Hi Rico...what did you use to insulate your pot? I've been looking to do something similar as well. Is your stove gas or electric?
Thanks!
 
I got some automotive firewall insulation from JC Whitney.....also the hi-temperature adhesive and foil tape. Not difficult to apply, and it's held up very well for two years.....including the heat of sitting on top of a turkey fryer burner since I went AG a year ago June. I've got a lot of the insulation left over, but there's probably no practical way for me to send it to you. Don't know how difficult it'll be for you to order that up in ON.....
 
That's good news it can withstand the heat of a turkey fryer (I also use one for BIAB). We have similar 'super auto parts' stores here, so perhaps I'll look for some next time I'm driving by one of those stores.
Thanks for the info!
 
2 Questions actually :

@Droylenz when you refer to efficiency in this thread, are you talking about extraction efficiency (mash efficiency) or total brewhouse efficiency?

Also, how do you prevent splashing when pouring the mash water and sparge water to and from the bucket? I can't manage to do it without splashing.
 
portalgod said:
2 Questions actually :

@Droylenz when you refer to efficiency in this thread, are you talking about extraction efficiency (mash efficiency) or total brewhouse efficiency?

Also, how do you prevent splashing when pouring the mash water and sparge water to and from the bucket? I can't manage to do it without splashing.
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Hey All, thanks for the notes. I've been away from the Brewing Community for a couple months now, only checking in once and awhile. Irony is, I work to support my beer habit, but work is taking up too much time to enjoy my beer habit.

First question, total brewhouse efficiency was used (I think, it's been awhile since I've read this post).

Second question, this is the one part of the process I would like to iron out a bit more. I can't do a very good job of keeping the splashing down without an extra set of hands. I just pour gently and hope the HSA isn't too bad.
 
Great thread. I'm an extract/steeping grains brewer who has just switched to 2.5 gallon batches so I can brew more often and have more different beers on hand. I'm wanting to go to all-grain and will probably try this method to get started.

I have a 5 gallon stainless steel pot and a 3 gallon aluminum pot. I plan on mashing in the 5 gallon pot and heating the sparge water in the 3 gallon pot. Instead of taking the bag ouf of the 5 gal pot, pouring the wort out, putting the bag back in the 5 gal pot and then pouring the sparge water over it, would it be OK if I just lifted the bag out of the 5 gal pot, then put the bag into the 3 gal pot with the sparge water already in it and, after 10 minutes, lifted the bag out of there and poured that wort into the 5 gal pot? It seems like less steps but I'm not sure if there could be some reasons not to do it this way.

Thanks.
 
Spidey13 said:
I have a 5 gallon stainless steel pot and a 3 gallon aluminum pot. I plan on mashing in the 5 gallon pot and heating the sparge water in the 3 gallon pot. Instead of taking the bag ouf of the 5 gal pot, pouring the wort out, putting the bag back in the 5 gal pot and then pouring the sparge water over it, would it be OK if I just lifted the bag out of the 5 gal pot, then put the bag into the 3 gal pot with the sparge water already in it and, after 10 minutes, lifted the bag out of there and poured that wort into the 5 gal pot? It seems like less steps but I'm not sure if there could be some reasons not to do it this way.
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This is exactly what I do, and it works great! I consistently get 75% or higher efficiency this way. The only other thing I would recommend is to get your own grain mill so that you can mill your grain finer than most brew shops do (since you don't have to worry about a stuck sparge using BIAB). I was previously around 70% efficiency using this method. After I got my mill, I am always 75% or over (usually around 78-81) :mug:
 
I don't think anyone has asked this yet, but is there any concern with using paint strainer bags? what are those made of? are they going to leech anything harmful into the beer?
 
DRoyLenz said:
You really should, it got me so stoked about brewing AG that I'm already working on my next recipe.

I learned A TON too... and it only adds an hour and a half, maybe 2 hours to the brew time...
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yes, an OLD thread I know. As I am also just starting on AG, I assume no mashout step since you are already sparging at 170 F. I plan to include a mashout step; just for my sake, prior to sparging.
 

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