Blichmann Boilermaker as sole mash tun, boiling kettle?

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climateboy

climateboy

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Hey, all. I'm looking to build an AG setup, and am considering using a 10-gallon Blichmann Boilermaker as both a mash tun and boiling kettle.

My reason for this is mainly space-oriented...if I can do without a 10-gallon Rubbermaid cooler around for a mash-tun, I'd love to.

Does anyone have any experience or suggestions. I realize insulation will be an issue, does anyone have suggestions for that?

My idea is that I would sparge and lauter into my fermenting buckets, siphon or pour back into the Blichmann, and boil away.

Any thoughts?
 
It's going to be a PITA and you'll find out real quick that you wish you would have spend the money on the cooler. Seriously, find the space to keep the cooler.
 
McKBrew said:
It's going to be a PITA and you'll find out real quick that you wish you would have spend the money on the cooler. Seriously, find the space to keep the cooler.
Click to expand...

Thanks...can you elaborate?
 
Will certainly work if you want to do it that way...for me I would get a rubbermaid 48 qt rectangular for like 18 bucks...then you can heat the runnings while sparging to save some time.
 
I just see it as being excessively time consuming.

You perform your mash, and drain it into a bucket. Then you have to get all the grain out of the pot, which will take up more time. You also have to have fermenting buckets capable of withstanding the heat of the mash (150 deg) and the sparge water (up to 190 deg).

Not saying it's not doable, but it's going to take some dedication.
 
wilserbrewer said:
Will certainly work if you want to do it that way...for me I would get a rubbermaid 48 qt rectangular for like 18 bucks...then you can heat the runnings while sparging to save some time.
Click to expand...

Sorry, can you explain how that would work? All grain noob here.
 
I can see a few problems with this.
1. You will have some temp. loss issues during your mash in a Boilermaker. These are meant to be used in a recirculating or direct fired system to maintain temps. Coolers are insulated and will maintain temps without an outside heat source.
2. While you are sparging, you can be heating up your runnings on the burner to get a head start towards a boil. Without a separate MLT and BK, you won't be able to do that.

Spend the money and get yourself a coleman extreme 52 quart cooler, a conversion kit from greatbargains.net, and a stainless hose assembly and follow flyguy's conversion. It will run you about 40-50 bucks and will be well worth the money. When you aren't using the cooler, you can store some of your all grain in it. I typically store my thermometers, cleaning brushes, and other brew day gear in my MLT cooler when it's not in use.
 
One reason I like my 10 gal round Rubbermaid cooler is that my brew kettle fits nicely inside when I store it. Saves a lot of space.
 
Anthony_Lopez said:
I can see a few problems with this.
1. You will have some temp. loss issues during your mash in a Boilermaker. These are meant to be used in a recirculating or direct fired system to maintain temps. Coolers are insulated and will maintain temps without an outside heat source.
2. While you are sparging, you can be heating up your runnings on the burner to get a head start towards a boil. Without a separate MLT and BK, you won't be able to do that.

Spend the money and get yourself a coleman extreme 52 quart cooler, a conversion kit from greatbargains.net, and a stainless hose assembly and follow flyguy's conversion. It will run you about 40-50 bucks and will be well worth the money. When you aren't using the cooler, you can store some of your all grain in it. I typically store my thermometers, cleaning brushes, and other brew day gear in my MLT cooler when it's not in use.
Click to expand...


Okay. Well, I can keep the Boilermaker on the stove, I have no problem with that. I also still have my 5 gallon kettle, so I can use that to heat the runnings.

I should have said, I've been doing a lot of extract, partial mash, and mini-mash brewing. So I have a bunch of buckets, carboys, etc.

So, FlyGuy, adding a 10 gallon cooler to my collection wouldn't give me storage space I don't have, but rather give me something else to store. It's a 3D jigsaw puzzle in my brew closet as it is.

Please, guys, keep this coming. This is my one shot at getting this equipment buy right.
 
I dont think there is anything else for us to tell you if you don't want to listen to us... You will never keep your mash temperatures perfect with a direct fire system without a temp. controller. Using a mash tun that will keep the heat from escaping is what you should be looking at if you want to get it right without spending tons of cash. Judging by your other post about the gear your sister got you, you dont' need all the best things to make good beer.
 
Anthony_Lopez said:
I dont think there is anything else for us to tell you if you don't want to listen to us... You will never keep your mash temperatures perfect with a direct fire system without a temp. controller. Using a mash tun that will keep the heat from escaping is what you should be looking at if you want to get it right without spending tons of cash. Judging by your other post about the gear your sister got you, you dont' need all the best things to make good beer.
Click to expand...

Hey, Anthony, I'm just trying to kick ideas around, not being contrarian. MoreBeer was out of most of the things my sis was trying to get me, so I had to rejigger. While reconfiguring, I started looking over my options and tried to simplify.

I needed to hear that about the direct fire system. Thank you. Trying to put together an equipment list while learning the details of AG is not the easiest. For example, I thought I had it all right until the folks at Northern Brewer and elsewhere told me a 25' wort chiller would not work with a 5 gallon batch in a 15-gallon pot...that a 5 gallon batch in a pot that size would be to shallow. So that sent me running after a plate chiller, which adds even more expense...I think I don't need the plate chiller, but, you see, the mind is weak...
 
you don't need a plate chiller. As far as I'm concerned, an IC works great. A 10-15 gallon pot, copper wort chiller, and a converted cooler is all you need as far as equipment goes to make award winning beer. Knowledge and technique is what makes good beer.

I definitely hear ya as far as trying to think things over, but I think my entire allgrain system cost less than a 15 gallon Blichmann.
 
Anthony_Lopez said:
you don't need a plate chiller. As far as I'm concerned, an IC works great. A 10-15 gallon pot, copper wort chiller, and a converted cooler is all you need as far as equipment goes to make award winning beer. Knowledge and technique is what makes good beer.

I definitely hear ya as far as trying to think things over, but I think my entire allgrain system cost less than a 15 gallon Blichmann.
Click to expand...

That's really good to know (although for the record, I was thinking about a 10 gallon Blichmann, which is only equivalent to half a month's rent for me. Ha!).

Do you have any experience with weldless fittings? Do you think a 10-15 gallon MegaPot with a ball valve is a good idea? Or better to leave it undrilled?
 
I have a 25' IC and a 15 gallon keggle and it cools the wort just fine. Hell, in the apartment I was actually cooling in a water bath along with the IC and that worked peachy keen.
 
Anthony_Lopez said:
You will never keep your mash temperatures perfect with a direct fire system without a temp. controller.
Click to expand...

While I personally wouldn't recommend this approach or use it for myself, I have pointed out here before that Joe Formanek mashes on the stovetop (without a temp controller other than himself). He lauters separately though, I do think cleaning out the mash tun after the sparge and then boiling in it sounds like a long brew day.

So I guess what I am saying is that mashing on the stovetop may not be great but I think controlling the temperature, at least well enough to win a couple of Ninkasis, is possible.
 
remilard said:
While I personally wouldn't recommend this approach or use it for myself, I have pointed out here before that Joe Formanek mashes on the stovetop (without a temp controller other than himself). He lauters separately though, I do think cleaning out the mash tun after the sparge and then boiling in it sounds like a long brew day.

So I guess what I am saying is that mashing on the stovetop may not be great but I think controlling the temperature, at least well enough to win a couple of Ninkasis, is possible.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that, Remilard. I'm going through a big reorganization of the brew closet this weekend to see about space for the cooler, and then I'll weigh my options. Of all of the parts of this approach that sound the most daunting, I have to say that cleaning out the tun is high on the list. I'd be nervous about boiling any husks I missed.
 

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