ebay aquarium temp controller build

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Ok, so without reading all 136 pages of this thread, can someone give a highlight of things to watch out for when ordering the parts for this thing?

It seems that there were 2 different models that were getting shipped out or something?
 
tested what voltage? The relays are just switches and supply no voltage or current.
and these relays don't need power to open, they only need power to close.

The load side will be hot when the switch is closed. So if the unit is in cooling or heating mode, the appfropriate post will have voltage
Disclaimer: I have not taken mine apart but... Bjorn is right that they are just relays, so you will not get any voltage across the terminals only a path for electricity to flow when the relays are closed. Unless you have wired a hot wire to one side of the relay output, then you will get power on the other side if it is closed.
I think they are talking about the coil voltage. Which I would find hard to believe it's not some low DC voltage controlling them...probably 12 or 5 VDC.
I would actually think that the relays would be rated for the AC voltage as this would mean less current would be needed to drive them, AFAIK low voltage relay coils can take quite a bit of current to close.
 
mattd2 said:
Disclaimer: I have not taken mine apart but... Bjorn is right that they are just relays, so you will not get any voltage across the terminals only a path for electricity to flow when the relays are closed. Unless you have wired a hot wire to one side of the relay output, then you will get power on the other side if it is closed.

.

If the relay is closed, and you test either the heating or cooling terminal, there will be voltage present. The line voltage just passes through the unit when the unit tells it to. It doesnt magically create voltage, just allows it to pass through
 
Well that's true is voltage is *applied* to one side or the other and the switch is closed.

If you don't apply voltage, you can still test it with a continuity meter... One probe on one side, the other on the other side. You're checking to see if the switch closes and let's any power through.

M_C
The load side will be hot when the switch is closed. So if the unit is in cooling or heating mode, the appfropriate post will have voltage
 
Durhamite said:
Ok, so without reading all 136 pages of this thread, can someone give a highlight of things to watch out for when ordering the parts for this thing?

It seems that there were 2 different models that were getting shipped out or something?

Search for stc-1000 temp controller, make sure the item listing says 110 Vac somewhere on it.
 
Well that's true is voltage is *applied* to one side or the other and the switch is closed.

If you don't apply voltage, you can still test it with a continuity meter... One probe on one side, the other on the other side. You're checking to see if the switch closes and let's any power through.

M_C

If you dont apply voltage, you'll never get continuity. The only way to get continuity is is to close the relay.
 
Durhamite said:
Do any of these display in Fahrenheit?

There is a model sold by rebel brewer for $80 that displays in Fahrenheit. Not worth the price, IMO. Just print out a fahrenheit to Celsius conversion chart.
 
If the relay is closed, and you test either the heating or cooling terminal, there will be voltage present. The line voltage just passes through the unit when the unit tells it to. It doesnt magically create voltage, just allows it to pass through
The line voltage that goes to the fridge/heater/etc. doesn't actually pass through the unit (well it kind of does but it doesn't), it pretty much goes into one side of the cooling/heating output and if the relay is closed straight out the other.
If you dont apply voltage, you'll never get continuity. The only way to get continuity is is to close the relay.

Are you sure you are not mixing up the coil and output sides of the realy and thinking they are connected together (electrically) somehow? as I am pretty sure the output on these units are relays and relays are just switches controlled by electric coils. They have the coil side and the output side.
if you apply (the correct) voltage to the coil, the switch will close but no current will flow from the coil side to the output side, it will only allow current to flow from one side of the output to the other.

One question is how are the Love/Ranco controllers made - is this were people are getting confused if those controllers actually have one side of the relays prewired to a hot so you actually have only one terminal to connect you fridge/heater/etc. hot wire to? EDIT - quick search seems that only the pre 2008 Love controllers were set up this way.
 
If the "heat" or "cool" is activated (aka the proper relay is activated), there is continuity in the respective heat/cool circuit regardless that you apply voltage to either poles or not.

Any system which is "capable of letting current through" is considered continuous.

A steel kitchen knife is considered continuous.

The continuity tester does apply voltage to test the continuity of course.

... I clearly said "when the switch is closed" - aka "the relay is closed". Relay = electrical switch.

.... anyways.

M_C

If you dont apply voltage, you'll never get continuity. The only way to get continuity is is to close the relay.
 
I'm talking about there being voltage in the unit. If you have voltage to the coil, and the parameters are met, then if you have voltage to the 5 or 7 screws, the coil will close and the power will flow through. When you said "If you don't apply voltage", it seemed like you meant anywhere in the unit. So if there is no voltage to the coil, you'll never get continuity. I'm not arguing with you, just trying to make it clear for people who aren't as understanding of electricity as you.
 
If the "heat" or "cool" is activated (aka the proper relay is activated), there is continuity in the respective heat/cool circuit regardless that you apply voltage to either poles or not.

Any system which is "capable of letting current through" is considered continuous.

A steel kitchen knife is considered continuous.

The continuity tester does apply voltage to test the continuity of course.

... I clearly said "when the switch is closed" - aka "the relay is closed". Relay = electrical switch.

.... anyways.

M_C

I'm talking about there being voltage in the unit. If you have voltage to the coil, and the parameters are met, then if you have voltage to the 5 or 7 screws, the coil will close and the power will flow through. When you said "If you don't apply voltage", it seemed like you meant anywhere in the unit. So if there is no voltage to the coil, you'll never get continuity. I'm not arguing with you, just trying to make it clear for people who aren't as understanding of electricity as you.

Yep Mikey, it is starting to get confusing who is diagreeing/agreeing with who ;) I think everyone is agreeing on how it works just not how to explain it :tank:
 
So the question is, has someone actually hooked the 220v model up to 110 and gotten it to work? Enquiring minds want to know.
 
So the question is, has someone actually hooked the 220v model up to 110 and gotten it to work? Enquiring minds want to know.

I am pretty sure someone did hook up the 220 V model to 110 V some pages back in this thread, from memory the controller powered up but none of the relays would work. So it basically means it was a digital thermometer ;)

I would say that you could power it from a 220 V dryer circuit and then connect you 110 V circuit through the relay, but that probably isn't the nicest or even safest solution. Someone should start a thread in the classified for people getting rid of 220 V units. There are lots of countrys with 220 V as the standard mains power.
 
I have one and I love it.
Got it set on a 1960's or 1970's era 33% fridge and set up a 40 watt bulb to act as a heater as needed.
 
So it looks like these things have jumped up to at least $36 on eBay.

Is this still the best deal around for a controller?

What... I havn't looked at these since I bought one but just checked on ebay, I think the $36 is a bit steep and maybe is just one vendor but has anyone seen the other controllers in the same package - http://cgi.ebay.com/30A-Digital-NEW...569?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb717bf39 this one is apparently a PID controller able to control 30 amp loads (from the title, I can't read the discription because of works phishing filter :()
Anyone want to weight in on that?

Edit: ok it seems like they are ripping off you guys with the 110V model, but I found this one on ebay UK http://cgi.ebay.com/LCD-Mini-Digita...ial_Automation_Control_ET&hash=item3367485d18
I would check it is actually a 110V as again I can't read the discription :(
 
I sent an email to the seller asking if he shipped the 220v or 110v system, and if there was a way to make the 220 work with the 110 electric in the U.S. I'm sure that 98% of the electronics in these things are the same, so hopefully there's a fix available. Perhaps we can get a couple of people working together to disassemble the two models and find the difference?

I am pretty sure someone did hook up the 220 V model to 110 V some pages back in this thread, from memory the controller powered up but none of the relays would work. So it basically means it was a digital thermometer ;)

I would say that you could power it from a 220 V dryer circuit and then connect you 110 V circuit through the relay, but that probably isn't the nicest or even safest solution. Someone should start a thread in the classified for people getting rid of 220 V units. There are lots of countrys with 220 V as the standard mains power.
 
ere109 said:
I sent an email to the seller asking if he shipped the 220v or 110v system, and if there was a way to make the 220 work with the 110 electric in the U.S. I'm sure that 98% of the electronics in these things are the same, so hopefully there's a fix available. Perhaps we can get a couple of people working together to disassemble the two models and find the difference?

I think the only difference is the relays. Once my second one come in, I'll open it up and find the model number and price them
 
Thanks a lot! My 220v showed up today. I was really looking forward to using this with my lager brew this weekend.
 
I just started a separate thread addressing the specific 220 vs 110 unit issue. Hopefully some kind electronics guru will be able to guide us to a decent solution.
 
In the end, you'll probably pay a good chunk of the cost of the unit to begin with just adapting 220V.

I would agree with you kaiser, the guys making these would be buying the relays in the 10000s and therefore each relay would cost basically nothing with vendor discounts and the price break they are at, where as an individual would be paying much more for 2 relays, then you'll have to desolder/resolder the relays without accidentally shorting out any other tracks. In the end it would be less than $10 worth (as long as you had the soldering iron, desoldering gun/braid, etc.) but even then you arn't gauranteed to not mess it up and end up with a nice looking paper weight.
 
mattd2 said:
I would agree with you kaiser, the guys making these would be buying the relays in the 10000s and therefore each relay would cost basically nothing with vendor discounts and the price break they are at, where as an individual would be paying much more for 2 relays, then you'll have to desolder/resolder the relays without accidentally shorting out any other tracks. In the end it would be less than $10 worth (as long as you had the soldering iron, desoldering gun/braid, etc.) but even then you arn't gauranteed to not mess it up and end up with a nice looking paper weight.

It would be hard to short out a track, they're all embedded in the pcb.

I agree though, it would be a rather difficult task for those unfamiliar with soldering and electronics.

However, for a small fee, I'd replace them for anyone interested :-D

I spend 8 hours a day troubleshooting and soldering under a microscope, soldering components that dont require a pair of needlenose tweezers to hold is a walk in the park.

Who knows? The relays might be available for free as "engineering samples"
 
Here is a look inside the 120 VAC temp controller

2011-05-05_17-09-26_933_1_.jpg


2011-05-05_17-09-11_296_1_.jpg


2011-05-05_17-09-38_809_1_.jpg


I do not have a 220V unit to compare. ere109, if you want to send me yours or come over with it, drop me a PM and I'll be happy to open it up and post some pictures.

I would hazard a guess that anyone who wants to change the 220 to 110 would have to change the transformer at a minimum.
 
I received mine from uni-mart on fleabay took about two weeks 24$. Its a 110v you dont need to specify the voltage he just figures it out based on your address.
 
Wayne1 said:
Here is a look inside the 120 VAC temp controller

I do not have a 220V unit to compare. ere109, if you want to send me yours or come over with it, drop me a PM and I'll be happy to open it up and post some pictures.

I would hazard a guess that anyone who wants to change the 220 to 110 would have to change the transformer at a minimum.

Thanks! Those transformers are $2.62 each from futureelectronics.com

My guess is the 230vac model is using pn bv302s09015 for the transformer. If that is, indeed, the case, and the relays are the same, should be a direct replacement.

Specs for the 110 transformer:

Secondary voltage: 9+-10% vdc
secondary current: 167 mA
Max no load voltage: 9.7 vdc
Rate power: 1.5 va

The relays are from hongmei relay in china, finding info about them is more difficult.

Would someone with the 230vac model care to crack it open and post the numbers and letters from the top of the 2 black boxes located on the board?
 
Here is a look inside the 120 VAC temp controller
I do not have a 220V unit to compare. ere109, if you want to send me yours or come over with it, drop me a PM and I'll be happy to open it up and post some pictures.

I would hazard a guess that anyone who wants to change the 220 to 110 would have to change the transformer at a minimum.

So I have a limited knowledge of electronics but I would guess the issue is the transformer, I am guessing that the 220V do run on 110 because 4.5V (half of 9V) would probably be just enough to get the control circuit going but not enough to get the relays going, you could just change the relays but you control circuit would still be just surviving ;) (and would probably cost more than replacing the transformer!)

http://www.futureelectronics.com/en...?ProductID=BV301S09015ZETTLERMAGNETICS9579905 and at under $3 it seems worth it ;)

this looks like the piece to buy and replace (pending confirmation upon opening of a 220v unit)

Eidt: stupid work getting in the way of reply on HBT ;), was that the first result on google for you too o4 SRT?
 
mattd2 said:
So I have a limited knowledge of electronics but I would guess the issue is the transformer, I am guessing that the 220V do run on 110 because 4.5V (half of 9V) would probably be just enough to get the control circuit going but not enough to get the relays going, you could just change the relays but you control circuit would still be just surviving ;) (and would probably cost more than replacing the transformer!)

http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Technologies/Product.aspx?ProductID=BV301S09015ZETTLERMAGNETICS9579905 and at under $3 it seems worth it ;)

this looks like the piece to buy and replace (pending confirmation upon opening of a 220v unit)

Eidt: stupid work getting in the way of reply on HBT ;), was that the first result on google for you too o4 SRT?

Haha yep. I'm at work also, but jumped onto a pc to search for it, then posted using hbt mobile.
 
One strange thing the relays have the same model number but i just noticed mine say 10A 277VAC and 15A 125 VAC. Now to see if i can find a place with that transformer in stock.
 
Chrisl77 said:
One strange thing the relays have the same model number but i just noticed mine say 10A 277VAC and 15A 125 VAC. Now to see if i can find a place with that transformer in stock.

There is a link several posts up the exact transformer used in the 110 model
 
Wayne, thank you for taking the time to respond to this. I knew there would be a solution, and I really appreciate your attitude and efforts to help. I know I'm not the only one who has purchased the wrong one, so hopefully we can come up with a solution for everyone.
I pulled mine apart tonight. It's VERY easy - took all of five minutes. It's still the same STC-1000 model, but the transformer clearly says 220v. The switches have the same part number, but different amperages written on them. Strange. Aside from that, here are the specs:
220v AC 50/60hz
Relay capacity 10A/250vac

There are four solder points under the transformer, so desoldering four contact points should be something many members can do. So are we just looking at swapping out that transformer?

Here is a look inside the 120 VAC temp controller

2011-05-05_17-09-26_933_1_.jpg


2011-05-05_17-09-11_296_1_.jpg


2011-05-05_17-09-38_809_1_.jpg


I do not have a 220V unit to compare. ere109, if you want to send me yours or come over with it, drop me a PM and I'll be happy to open it up and post some pictures.

I would hazard a guess that anyone who wants to change the 220 to 110 would have to change the transformer at a minimum.

384.jpg


383.jpg
 
By the way, I found the 110v transformer in stock at the link below - minimum $10 order, so we'd need to buy five at a time (it complicates things, but I'm sure there are people in various hub locations that could group up, or one person buy a large order and individually ship).

http://estore.heilind.com/search_octo.asp?p=BV301S09015

With shipping that breaks down to roughly $5.50 each, to Colorado. I am willing to order five transformers. I can install them in the circuit boards and ship them back. Shipping to and from CO will entail at least another $10.00 for USPS small package flat rate boxes.

So is it worth it for a minimum of $15.50 to get the transformer changed to work on 110V AC?

Or, are there five people in CO who have these units and want them changed to 110?
 
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