American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

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Quite possibly one of the best light beers I've ever had. Amazing how simple it was to make.

God it felt good to have a good beer made after two very disappointing beers. Didn't know something so simple could end up so good.

Congrats
 
Just brewed a mini-mash version. Gravity came out way too low. 1.042. Should've used more extract maybe.
 
This time around I used London Ale Yeast (I re-pitched onto an existing cake from a Brown Ale) .. came out well..

Has anyone tried London Ale yeast w/Haus ale ?

At the risk of sounding like a yeast idiot, I notice a bit more sweetness then earlier .. is this the different yeast talking ?

I cld drink this all night (and maybe I will!)
 
What do you think about the addition of kent golding or nothern brewer hops as a dry-hop addition to this brew? I am thinking of on ounce added to the primary late or to the secondary if you choose to do that.

~M~
 
I finally have this one in the bottle. 11 days in the primary, 14 days in the 2ndary.

I also dry hopped it w/ 2 oz of Homegrown Cascade. WOW - Its good and hoppy tasting. Its nicely balanced (not too bitter) but w/ lots of hop flavor.

Now I have to wait for carbonation.....
 
I've got to work on my efficiency before the next brew. It was my first all grain and I thought I did everything right but my numbers are off. My OG: 1.048 My FG: 1.013

I'm pretty sure It's done fermenting. I checked it three nights in a row and it's been right around 1.013. It taste pretty good :) but it's a little lighter than I expected.

I'm going on Vacation day after tomorrow. I don't think I'll have time to bottle tomorrow night. So, I'm planning on racking it to a glass carboy until I get back in a week. Maybe I'll squeeze out another point before I get back....
 
Haus Ale is FAMOUS in Brattleboro, VT --- brought a 12 pak to a small going-away party for a teacher, and, as always, it was received with HUGE praise ... in fact, the folks who enjoyed it the most were not regular beer drinkers...

The Sam Adams folks brought didn't stand a chance !

I think we got a former home brewer from Marlboro re-energized to start brewing again !
 
I just did a version of this followed the grain bill completley
but used:
columbus as bittering about .5 ounce
then .5 cascade at 30
.5 cascade at 15 and 5
then I am dry hopping with an ounce of amarillo which is where it is at right now. I also used wyeast 1056. When I racked to dry hop it tasted pretty good already. Now to wait for another 2 weeks before I bottle

well I bottled this tonight, I dry hopped it with an ounce of armarillo. Was going to do that for 2 weeks, but got really busy and they were in there for almost 4 weeks. I thought I was going to have to much of a grassy flavor but it tasted great so far.

Mine finished really low to 1.008 has a nice crisp dry finish. I had to use the coopers car tabs which I really dont like but I forgot to buy a few ounzes of sugar. Will update this after if carbs up and ages a little
 
Oh yeah forgot to mention that i used Wyeast 1056, grain bills was the same and hoping was failry similar plus the dry hoping. I didnt think I was going to get that low
 
Hi guys,

I bottled my bee cave haus ale today. I tasted it and it taste weird. It taste almost like cinnamon or some type of spice. I'm not sure if that's from the hops or some error in my process. It tasted pretty good the day I brewed it but each time I've tasted it since the "spice" flavor is more pronounced.

I followed the recipe very closely. My efficiency was off. I only hit 1.048 O.G. instead of 1.051. I'm wondering if I didn't get enough "sweet" out of the malt to counteract the hops. Do Cascade hops have a cinnamon flavor?

My LHBS was out of the Nottinghams yeast. So, I used Muntons instead. Could that be it? Also, it has been very hot here lately. Temps in the basement have been upper 70s and low 80s. I kept the fermenter in an Ice water bath but the stick on thermometer always read in the upper 70s. I've been told that high temps during primary fermentation can cause off flavors. Is cinnamon one of the off flavors?

Sorry for the long post, But, I'm kind of worried that the beer is gonna suck.

Thanks in advance,

Kornbread
 
I think your ferment temp is too high and should be about 10 degrees cooler at least. Higher temps lead to more fruity flavors. One way to lower the ferment temps is to freeze a few water bottles (the 16 or 20 oz ones are fine) and add them to your water bath. This should lower the temp. Freeze enough that you can change them out often, rotating from water bath to freezer and back.
 
High Temps and Muntons are the major contributor for your off flavor. Nottingham is a very clean yeast. Works like a champ. If you cannot find it, you can substitute Safale -05, but an English Beer yeast will make a completely different beer.
 
My LHBS was out of the Nottinghams yeast. So, I used Muntons instead. Could that be it? Also, it has been very hot here lately. Temps in the basement have been upper 70s and low 80s. I kept the fermenter in an Ice water bath but the stick on thermometer always read in the upper 70s. I've been told that high temps during primary fermentation can cause off flavors. Is cinnamon one of the off flavors?
Yeah, sounds like Muntons + high temps could be your issue. My first beer used Muntons yeast. It fermented way too high (in the upper 70s), and when it was done it reeked of bananas. It was drinkable, but it would have been a better beer without the fruit from the yeast. In that sense it was kind of disappointing, although on the upside I did learn more from that batch than any other batch I've made. So whilst that beer wasn't great, every beer I've made since has been better as a result.
 
Hi all, not sure if this post is better off here in the recipes section, or elsewhere.

I'd like to do this recepie as my first all -grain in the next day or two. My "local" HBS (3 hours away) didn't have cascade hops, so I randomly selected goldings.

I know of course that there will be a difference ... and as my first all grain this will be mostly about getting a feel for the technique.... but just the same, I want to make a good beer. Anyone care to speculate how it may be? Anyone think it would be bad enough that I should wait until I can get different hops?

Thanks!
 
Hi all, not sure if this post is better off here in the recipes section, or elsewhere.

I'd like to do this recepie as my first all -grain in the next day or two. My "local" HBS (3 hours away) didn't have cascade hops, so I randomly selected goldings.

I know of course that there will be a difference ... and as my first all grain this will be mostly about getting a feel for the technique.... but just the same, I want to make a good beer. Anyone care to speculate how it may be? Anyone think it would be bad enough that I should wait until I can get different hops?

Thanks!

It will have a different character as you are using English hops, but I imagine it will be a tasty beer just, more of an English Pale.
 
Brewing this tomorrow. Substituting .75 oz of Chinook FWH for bittering instead of the Cascades and WLP001 instead of the Nottingham. IBU's on Beersmith come out to 40. LHBS said it was no big deal and I can use the other .25 oz to bitter my honey wheat.


Will advise!
 
I brewed this a week ago using WLP001. Since I couldn't find any Nottingham. I also put the remaining .5 cascade and the .5 centennial right into primary. Is this going to be anywhere close to the same beer? If not, what would be a good substitute for the Nottingham?
 
I brewed this a week ago using WLP001. Since I couldn't find any Nottingham. I also put the remaining .5 cascade and the .5 centennial right into primary. Is this going to be anywhere close to the same beer? If not, what would be a good substitute for the Nottingham?

Safale -05 would have been a good and cheap alternative. Again, the main purpose behind the recipe was good, cheap, and easy.

The extra hops and liquid yeast knock off the cheap part and some of the easy part, but you still will have a good beer. A bit more hoppy especially in the nose, but overall a tasty beer. Enjoy!
 
Ed,


I have an extra ounce of Cascades sitting around from another brew. Have you dry hopped this beer yet?

I dry hopped this with an ounce of amarillo, and after a week it was very good lots of flavor and aroma...I left them in there a lot longer than intended they were in there for 4 weeks.
 
Did this one a few days ago and all (visible) activity seemed to cease within a couple days - this sounds like nothing to worry about from previous posts - is it? Also, how much priming sugar should I use for a 5 gallon batch when I go to bottle? Thanks in advance...
 
Did this one a few days ago and all (visible) activity seemed to cease within a couple days - this sounds like nothing to worry about from previous posts - is it? Also, how much priming sugar should I use for a 5 gallon batch when I go to bottle? Thanks in advance...

Nottingham will ferment this out in a couple of days. Go ahead and let it sit for at least 10 days total while the yeast finish their process before kegging or racking to secondary.

3/4 cup of corn sugar will work fine for priming.
 
Using the date that is shown on the recipe, the running total of gallons brewed, and today's date...this recipe is being brewed an average of every 3 days.

To me that seems pretty impressive!
 
I'm halfway thru placing an order to make this and I can't get cascade hops. What should I use to replace them?
 
Williams Brewing or Homebrewmart.com should have Cascade in stock. You can sub Amarillo, Simcoe, Centennial or Chinook as long as you cut back on the higher Alpha Acid hops.
 
I found the cascade, a local brewery I'm visiting tomorrow has them in stock. I love simcoe, have you tried it with them?
 
I found the cascade, a local brewery I'm visiting tomorrow has them in stock. I love simcoe, have you tried it with them?

I have not tried simcoe with my Haus Ale, but it made a great IPA. It's a tasty hop, but try to match the IBUs is you are going to try it as a substitute.
 
Williams Brewing or Homebrewmart.com should have Cascade in stock. You can sub Amarillo, Simcoe, Centennial or Chinook as long as you cut back on the higher Alpha Acid hops.

Hey hands off my Homebrewmart they're my LHBS and I need all ingredients available to me!!! haha j/k
 
I'm going with the cascade, this will be my first AG and I plan to follow the recipe exactly the way you wrote it. Maybe I'll try the simcoe on the next batch.
 
Just finished mine. First AG. Everything seemed to go well, ended up with about 4.5 gallons and it came in at about 1.058. Is this too high? Should I do something to correct this?
 
Just finished mine. First AG. Everything seemed to go well, ended up with about 4.5 gallons and it came in at about 1.058. Is this too high? Should I do something to correct this?

You'll be fine. It will just have a bit more kick. :cross:

You top off with some bottled water if you wish.
 
I think i'll choose the kick. Thanks for the recipe Ed, my hydrometer sample was delicious, very pleased for my first AG.
 
I just brewed this and popped my All-Grain Cherry :)

Now for the bad news.... LEARNING CURVE....
OG 1.044 :( Looks like it will be 5% ABV instead of 6% if I'm not mistaken
Mash at 150 since I didn't calculate strike temp (52qt Coleman xtreme MLT with SS braid)
Added to much water as I thought it would be under, ended up over...

I "think" that's 57.44% efficiency... Guess I need to read up on my batch sparging and MLT technique...

FWIW the grain crush at the LHBS seemed "powdery" in comparison to the partial mash grain I've received from AHS, Midwest, and Northern Brewer....

Oh well I hope it comes out well! Cost about $25 in supplies at the LHBS


Zack
 
Well, I only could get 1 ounce of cascade so I grabbed 1 ounce of centennial. How do I adjust the hops? The cascade is 5.9 and the centennial is 9.1?
 
Here's what I'd do... Played with beersmith for a bit and came up with......



0.50 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (60 min) Hops 9.1 IBU
0.50 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (60 min) Hops 16.5 IBU
0.25 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (30 min) Hops 6.4 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (15 min) Hops 2.3 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (5 min) Hops 1.8 IBU
0.25 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (5 min) Hops 1.6 IBU

Bitterness: 37.7 IBU (14.0-20.0 IBU)

At 75% efficency that'll give you 39.3ibu's of bitter AND!!! AND!!!! you will have more hop flavor/armoa because of the higher AA's of centennial. Instead of finishing with only .25oz of hops(cascade) you will be finishing with DOUBLE THAT AMOUNT!!! In the spirit of the brew It might be a tiny touch more of a hop flavor than most coors light people can handle but that other part of the spirit of the brew is to make a nice easy drinking beer with minimal ingridents to be enjoyed greatly by both being easy on the tastebuds and the wallet! :rockin:
 
Did this all grain last Sunday. LHBS cascade was a little light on the AA (5.5), so added some Centennial (calculated amounts to get me to 6.6- very little) to bring AA up on each addition. Used a starter from a washed American Ale yeast and did ferment fast and strong. Transfering tomorrow to 2nd for 10 days, then 2 weeks in keg and drink will be on!!
 
The MO would not make much of a difference other than increasing the price of the batch.

I will be picking up the grain for this (1st AG) this Saturday and it looks like my LHBS has Maris Otter for $1.20/lb but plain 2-row is $2.00/lb.

I have read somewhere else on the board that MO should never be used in an APA, only in English Pale Ales. Is there really much of a difference between MO and plain 2-row (MO is a 2-row barley I beleive)?

Edit: They had the prices wrong on their website, I got 2-row pale malt. No cascade hops either, got simcoe. When I asked for Cascade, LHBS guy laughed at me.
 
Wow, I ended up with an OG of 1.034. My mini-mash must've been super-inefficient.

Weird; I would have expected about 1.040 from the 5 pounds of DME even if I got nothing at all out of the grain.

Ah well, we'll see what happens; I'm sure it'll end up tasty anyway.
 
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