All Stainless Heatstick design

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
revansCAAD8

revansCAAD8

Supporting Member
HBT Supporter
Joined
Jul 10, 2012
Messages
313
Reaction score
22
Location
Where We Park It!
Hey gang, I've been working on an all stainless TriClamp HeatStick design. One that doesn't require sealant or JB Weld so to not leak and also allows for easy element maintenance or replacement. Oh and can be done both Straight or with the 90 degree elbow. Cost is the downside :( Here are some mock-up pics, let me know what you think:
Robert

mockup heatstick.JPG


mockup heatstick 2.JPG


mockup heatstick 3.JPG
 
As a tri-clamp and heatstick user, I am interested! My heatstick is used in conjunction with a A419 controller to maintain the water temp in my hybrid HERMS system. One thing I noticed is the JB Weld gets really soft after sitting in the water for an hour plus and can peel off with little effort.

One question is how are you connecting the element to the tri-clamp?
 
Cool, would like the see the internal details as well. Subscribed!
 
Satisfaction said:
As a tri-clamp and heatstick user, I am interested! My heatstick is used in conjunction with a A419 controller to maintain the water temp in my hybrid HERMS system. One thing I noticed is the JB Weld gets really soft after sitting in the water for an hour plus and can peel off with little effort.

One question is how are you connecting the element to the tri-clamp?
Click to expand...

Yeah I wanted to stay away from having to use silicone or JB Weld. You can use the 'Element Guard Kit' or the simple 'Element Adapter' from StillDragon. Here I show mine using the Element Adapter:

20130127_000004267.jpg
 
NYC said:
Cool, would like the see the internal details as well. Subscribed!
Click to expand...

Here is the Tri-Clamp parts I ordered from StillDragon:
Element Guard Kit
Element Adapter
2" TC Pipe x 20"
2" 90 degree Elbow (pic above show 2 but second was sent by mistake)
(2) 2" Clamps (EGK above comes with 1)
(5) 2" Silicone Gaskets (CHEAP ,so I have a few extras)
Pipe Holder 2" $6 (so I can hang/hook on kettle edge)

-----
Oh course you will also need:
Water heat element: I bought the Camco 02853 ULWD 120v 1500w since I only have a 20amp circuit.
Electric/appliance cord: I got 12/3 cord cut to length at Home Depot.
Male Plug (I bought a 15amp from Home Depot)

Robert
GypsyBrew
 
Last edited by a moderator:
What is the black material at the top? Is it just foam pipe insulation so you can grab/manipulate without burning your hands?
 
msexton said:
What is the black material at the top? Is it just foam pipe insulation so you can grab/manipulate without burning your hands?
Click to expand...

Yeah that was just pipe insulation when a was working on the design/mock-up. Since I now have a working unit and have ran my first boil test, I don't think it's even needed. Heat didn't run up the SS pipe at all.

Robert
 
Update: Last night was Brew Day (AG- Firestone Walker Wookey Jack Clone), the new Heat Stick worked great and had no leaks! It may be a bit longer than needed for my BK, however it would also work great in my deeper 10gal HD Mashtun.

20130206_000004280.jpg


20130206_000004274.jpg


20130206_000004287.jpg


20130207_000004289.jpg
 
JUST_BREW_IT said:
Nice build. What did it end up costing you?
Click to expand...

Well it depends on your configuration but as pictured above:

2" TC Pipe x 20" $38
2" 90 degree Elbow $14
(3) 2" Clamps $22.50
(3) 2" Silicone Gaskets $1.05
Pipe Holder $6 (optional)
Element Adapter $10
ULWD Element $17
Shipping $12
Total : $120.55
*Optional Element Guard Kit $36

Pretty expensive but I have VERY happy with it!

Hope this helps,
Robert
GypsyBrew
 
I really like using heatsticks instead of an element mounted in the kettle because I remove the heatstick before I whirlpool.

Bobby_M said:
Maybe it was mentioned already, but help me out. Why spend that kind of money when installing it though the pot would cost under $10?
Click to expand...
 
Bobby_M said:
Maybe it was mentioned already, but help me out. Why spend that kind of money when installing it though the pot would cost under $10?
Click to expand...

Bobby, for me I guess it's mainly 'Flexibility'. It can be used in any apparatus -BK, pre-heat/strike/sparge water, even in my MashTun (10Gal Rubbermaid) without modifying any of them. No needed special tools/drill bits and/or chance that I will screw-up damaging my SS pot(s) by drilling the hole(s). Can be used Indoors or Outdoors. All the quality SS parts I used to build this should last a lifetime and can also be used/pulled/re-purposed for other uses/projects (Modularity) and/or future indevors (distilling?).

Maybe not for everyone but we are limited on space & tools and being fully modular is helpful. I'm a happy camper with it.

Robert
 
MooMooBrew said:
Sweet build, notice any leaking or seeping?
Click to expand...

Thank you, only had a leak when I first put the unit together but found I didn't have a TC gasket lined up & clamp tight. I originally thought it was the element seal so order a couple element o-rings from Bobby but actually wasn't needed. 3 full brew sessions so far and and no leaks!

Robert
 
I do see the merits of a good heat stick now thanks. One thing that strikes me is just how overly bulky the whole assembly is. I realize that the hex of an element requires 2" TC at least where it mounts, but it would be cool to connect to a length of 1/2" stainless tubing right after that. Afterall, once you have the element connection water tight, you just need a waterproof sheath for the wire and a handle. I promised my wife I wouldn't make any new products for a while but the opportunity... it burns!
 
I have 2 heatsticks, no where close to the quality of yours. I have thought about mounting in the kettle, but I love brewing outside with propane when the weather is nice.
 
bumstigedy said:
Interesting. What was your process to check for leaks?
Click to expand...

That is very easy with this setup. You can easily open any clamp and simply look inside and/or the end-cap w/ strain relief from StillDragon has a slit cut in it and can hold the unit upside down and see if any fluid comes out. Lastly the unit is only plugged into receptacles with GFI. If it leaks, you will quickly know! LOL

Hope this helps,
Robert
 
revansCAAD8 said:
Here is the Tri-Clamp parts I ordered from StillDragon:
Element Guard Kit
Element Adapter
2" TC Pipe x 20"
2" 90 degree Elbow (pic above show 2 but second was sent by mistake)
(2) 2" Clamps (EGK above comes with 1)
(5) 2" Silicone Gaskets (CHEAP ,so I have a few extras)
Pipe Holder 2" $6 (so I can hang/hook on kettle edge)

-----
Oh course you will also need:
Water heat element: I bought the Camco 02853 ULWD 120v 1500w since I only have a 20amp circuit.
Electric/appliance cord: I got 12/3 cord cut to length at Home Depot.
Male Plug (I bought a 15amp from Home Depot)

Robert
GypsyBrew
Click to expand...

Is that the same element in post #1 and post #5? The second one looks much shorter. Have you had any issues with the elements them selves? Would you recommend the same element? THanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I was planning on just soldering a screw to the inside of the 90 elbow for a grounding lug. Is that what you did or did figure something better?
 
SpartyParty said:
Is that the same element in post #1 and post #5? The second one looks much shorter. Have you had any issues with the elements them selves? Would you recommend the same element? THanks
Click to expand...

Post #1 was just a mockup of my 'heatstick' idea. Post #5 is the element that I actually use. Yes, it's much shorter as the other would have been too long to fit into my Boil kettle and/or Mashtun (HD/Rubbermaid cooler). Even though this element is only a 120v 1500W ULWD, I have been very happy with it's performance. So yes I would recommend it, especially if there is a space issue and/or only have a 15-20amp circuit.

Robert
 
I just built this heatstick (thanks for the idea), but I have a couple questions and/or concerns.

1. I gather that you didn't encapsulate the electrical connections to the element. Is this true? I am thinking that I probably will encapsulate just for added piece of mind.

2. I leak tested overnight and noticed the base that the element goes through is now covered in rust. Have you experienced this problem?

ResizedIMG_20130723_155704.jpg
 
that is one problem with how most of us use the elements is that there is no anodes. In my RIMS tube I have an Aluminum 1.5" to 1" bushing that acts as an anode to prevent rusting. I don't know how one would be used in a heat stick.
 
HDIr0n said:
that is one problem with how most of us use the elements is that there is no anodes. In my RIMS tube I have an Aluminum 1.5" to 1" bushing that acts as an anode to prevent rusting. I don't know how one would be used in a heat stick.
Click to expand...

Could I just introduce some Aluminum to the TC pipe? Maybe some Aluminum foil at the top clamp?
 
Here is one I made a couple of years ago. The hardest part was getting the local machine shop to tap the adapter for the element. Glad to see there is a place to buy them now. I used 1/2 stainless pipe instead of all sanitary. It displaces less volume and cost much less. I made it so it hangs over the rim of my pot.

20130723_222135.jpg
 
Crazy Idea?

What if you put a tee right on top of the 90 and added a temperature probe? I'd like to make something like this that I can drop in to any sized MLT or HLT and then move it to the BK when I'm ready.
 
JR, no I didn't 'encapsulate' the electrical, if you're meaning pour JB Weld around the element wiring? I wanted a unit that I could easily take apart and/or change elements if I wanted/needed. I have had no issues with leaks with this system. NOT that it couldn't happen, but always use a CFI receptical and check the tube for moisture regularly.

On the rust... Just from reading the forums, you will see this talked about with elements. However, I haven't had an issue as bad as yours. However, I always remove it HOT (not ON) and after a little cooling, I dry what is left on the unit & element. Lastly, I soak the unit in cleaner at the end of the brew day, rinse and dry before putting away. Maybe this helps mine. Could your area water make it more likely to occur?

Hope this helps,
Robert
 
juice1113 said:
Here is one I made a couple of years ago. The hardest part was getting the local machine shop to tap the adapter for the element. Glad to see there is a place to buy them now. I used 1/2 stainless pipe instead of all sanitary. It displaces less volume and cost much less. I made it so it hangs over the rim of my pot.
Click to expand...

How did you go from the TC to the 1/2" pipe?
 
Thanks for the reply. I was thinking of some food safe silicone for the encapsulation. I will only use the stick with GFCI, but I think I'd just feel better if it were encapsulated. I was just going to wrap a strip of paper around black part where the element connections are, and encapsulate with the silicone. It would be a little tougher to change the element, but not nearly as bad as JB weld. Should still be able to remove the silicone if needed.

For my water Chemistry, I found a water report, but it didn't include most of the figures brewers look for. I did test the ph and it was around 8.

revansCAAD8 said:
JR, no I didn't 'encapsulate' the electrical, if you're meaning pour JB Weld around the element wiring? I wanted a unit that I could easily take apart and/or change elements if I wanted/needed. I have had no issues with leaks with this system. NOT that it couldn't happen, but always use a CFI receptical and check the tube for moisture regularly.

On the rust... Just from reading the forums, you will see this talked about with elements. However, I haven't had an issue as bad as yours. However, I always remove it HOT (not ON) and after a little cooling, I dry what is left on the unit & element. Lastly, I soak the unit in cleaner at the end of the brew day, rinse and dry before putting away. Maybe this helps mine. Could your area water make it more likely to occur?

Hope this helps,
Robert
Click to expand...
 
BBBF said:
Crazy Idea?

What if you put a tee right on top of the 90 and added a temperature probe? I'd like to make something like this that I can drop in to any sized MLT or HLT and then move it to the BK when I'm ready.
Click to expand...

Not sure I understand or if it's a great idea but you might be able to use a TriClamp T in place of the 90. You would need another clamp/gasket and whatever needed to create/mount/seal the temp probe.

Robert
 
juice1113 said:
Here is one I made a couple of years ago. The hardest part was getting the local machine shop to tap the adapter for the element. Glad to see there is a place to buy them now. I used 1/2 stainless pipe instead of all sanitary. It displaces less volume and cost much less. I made it so it hangs over the rim of my pot.
Click to expand...

Thanks for sharing. Yeah when I originally designed, I considered something similar. But since I wanted all stainless steel and could order everything from one company, so I went all TC sanitary. Also like the idea I can reuse all the parts for other projects and/or other uses in my brew house if I wanted/needed. I didn't hang it because if I wanted to use it in different BK's (sizes) or in my MLT (much deeper) I could too.

Robert
 

Similar threads

CurtHagenlocher
For Sale FREE - All my stuff for local pickup in Seattle area
Replies
5
Views
594
giraffeman
giraffeman
C
Voided Warranty for Disassembling Keg???
Replies
9
Views
1K
mac_1103
mac_1103
mcmichaelangelo
Sold Single-Tier 3V Electric SS Brewtech All-Grain Brewing-Fermenting System For Sale $5k OBO
Replies
0
Views
880
mcmichaelangelo
mcmichaelangelo
Deadalus
DIY Double Butt Strap Hood
Replies
3
Views
1K
Jayjay1976
Jayjay1976
W
North Carolina Unibrau Pro All in One 100L 240V System
Replies
2
Views
2K
w1ng1t
W

Latest posts

Back
Top