American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract

Chris_Dog said:

Is Wyeast 07250 the proper yeast to use? Not finding Pacman

Click to expand...

I don't know- I used pacman once, and then I used dry yeast (Nottingham) once. I don't know that particular yeast- but I'd use a clean fermenting ale yeast- this beer is all about the hops!

YooperBrew said:

I don't know- I used pacman once, and then I used dry yeast (Nottingham) once. I don't know that particular yeast- but I'd use a clean fermenting ale yeast- this beer is all about the hops!

Click to expand...

Here is the info...

1792 Fat Tire Ale Yeast. This eagerly-anticipated Wyeast VSS release is the proprietary strain used by New Belgium Brewery in their cult favorite Fat Tire Amber Ale. Apparent attenuation: 73-77%. Flocculation: low. Optimum temp: 65°-72° F

<EDIT> Wow I got the numbers wrong on the 1st post... sorry

Chris_Dog said:

Here is the info...

1792 Fat Tire Ale Yeast. This eagerly-anticipated Wyeast VSS release is the proprietary strain used by New Belgium Brewery in their cult favorite Fat Tire Amber Ale. Apparent attenuation: 73-77%. Flocculation: low. Optimum temp: 65°-72° F

<EDIT> Wow I got the numbers wrong on the 1st post... sorry

Click to expand...

I would not buy this yeast to use exclusively for this beer. I believe that Yooper used Pacman because she had that around and it is a clean ferementing yeast. I used WLP001 and had great results. My top 3 choices would be WLP001, Wyeast 1056, or Safale 05. I think the Fat Tire strain might through some flavors in there that will move it away from a clone, but I am sure it will still be an excellent beer.

Beerrific said:

I would not buy this yeast to use exclusively for this beer. I believe that Yooper used Pacman because she had that around and it is a clean ferementing yeast. I used WLP001 and had great results. My top 3 choices would be WLP001, Wyeast 1056, or Safale 05. I think the Fat Tire strain might through some flavors in there that will move it away from a clone, but I am sure it will still be an excellent beer.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I used pacman last year because I had it saved and it is a super clean high attenuating yeast. I think the FT strain might give you some "Belgian-y" flavors. I mean use it if you want, because it might make a great beer, like Beerrific said, but not a clone.

Thank you Guys!

Is it just me, or are the SRM's not right on this? This pictures come out showing a nice amber beer, but BeerSmith is telling me to expect something more straw-colored.

Sir Humpsalot said:

Is it just me, or are the SRM's not right on this? This pictures come out showing a nice amber beer, but BeerSmith is telling me to expect something more straw-colored.

Click to expand...

BeerSmith's little picture is pretty deceptive. It only shows about three shades to me: light yellow, golden amber, and black. The recipe is a pretty good approximation of the DFH brew in both color and flavor.

Thanks Yuri.

Well, I used 3/4lb of Crystal 60 instead of Maris Otter (didn't have any lying around). I also First Wort Hopped a half ounce of Amarillo in the place of some of the Warrior because I like the flavor from FWH and don't care to make a beer too bitter.
And I mashed at 155 to make for a maltier beer.

What can I say? I like DFH60 well enough, but it's a bit too hoppy for me.

So I'm making it more to my liking. Thanks for the recipe, yoop. I think it's going to be a good one...

This is my next beer for sure. One problem is finding Warrier and Simcoe hops. They seem hard to find pellets..I have to check my local guy but online they are scarce...anyone else have this problem?

Jay

I do love the beer and can not wait. I was thinking mash a bit higher to attempt to have a bit more malt and body maybe 155?? or 156.

discgolfin said:

This is my next beer for sure. One problem is finding Warrier and Simcoe hops. They seem hard to find pellets..I have to check my local guy but online they are scarce...anyone else have this problem?

Click to expand...

Try austinhomebrew, that's where I got mine. Or hops direct.

I just transfered this to secondary 4 days ago and dry hopped. It now is crystal clear and i can see through to the other side of the carboy, (looks beautiful). I have never seen this before. it is always cloudy right through to bottling time. is this normal? will there be enough yeast to carbonate?

Thanks.

also, the hops are all just floating on top and slowly dropping; should i try to get them to settle out? or do i just rack it to the bottle bucket and not worry?

When you rack to the bottling bucket, just rack around the hops. It seems like everything is going fine for you- nice and clear already and being dry hopped now. It sounds good!

thanks for converting this for me yooper! i bottled it last night and it already tastes great!

This is my first beer with my new barley crusher..Im mashin right now. I took some advice and went for 155 to try to get a bit more malt and body. I have not used the crusher and up until now my eff. has sucked at 60 to 65. So i uped 10% as usual. I might exceed my OG a bit. If I hit 75% like I hope than my OG will be 1.076 to 1.077. High for sure. Im not sure if I want to have good eff. or a bad so I hit the recipe closer..I did up the hop a bit in case I do hit a higher number.

Jay

holding nice at 155

The grain bill is roughly 13.5 pounds. At 1.25 quarts per pound the mash water comes out to about 4.25 gallons. I will get about 3.5 gallons after I vorlauf and drain to my 10 gallon kettle due to grain absorption.
I am going to do a batch sparge in my 10 gallon cooler with false bottom. How much water should I use?
I want to get to my boil volume which is about 6 gallons. I guess I would use only 2 gallons to achieve my boil volume in the kettle?

StankAle said:

The grain bill is roughly 13.5 pounds. At 1.25 quarts per pound the mash water comes out to about 4.25 gallons. I will get about 3.5 gallons after I vorlauf and drain to my 10 gallon kettle due to grain absorption.
I am going to do a batch sparge in my 10 gallon cooler with false bottom. How much water should I use?
I want to get to my boil volume which is about 6 gallons. I guess I would use only 2 gallons to achieve my boil volume in the kettle?

Click to expand...

Do you have Beersmith? I have this recipe in Beersmith myself, and I could post that here if it'd help.

I have Promash at home I was just trying to calculate this here at work. I can easily wait until I get home and let the software do the work. :rockin:

You talked me into it- I'm going to brew this again tomorrow! :rockin:

Just to give an update, took a sample out of primary today and with OG or 1.072 Im looking at FG 1.015..I beleive this is a bit closer to the original. Not much malt flavor but its only been 10 days ..seems like it will be very nice. I mashed at 155 for 60 so if anyone is interested.

Jay

Ok it's been a week in the primary and the activity has stowed to 1 bubble/ 21 seconds. What is the consensus time to rack to secondary and Dry Hop or wait 3 more days? SG was 1.021 on 12/27 PM(OG1.071-12/23 PM)

1.021 sounds like it has a bit more to go..I would wait another day or two and re-check

Jay

OK just took hydro reading, 1.016@70f=1.017SG. 1 bubble/21 sec @ 730 am. How dry will it get?

I plan on brewing this tomorrow and I am having a small but pressing problem:
The recipe has a total of 13.40 lbs. I plan on mashing in with 1.25Qts per LB, bringing me to about 4.2 gallons in the mash. This should give me about 3.5 gallons or so of first runnings. If I sparge with roughly the same amount of water that will bring me to about 7 gallons in the kettle. I will lose about a gallon to boiloff which puts 6 gallons in the fermenter, one more gallon than I want. ProMash shows the proper IBU's, ABV, etc. but I can't seem to figure out how to get the wort down to 5 gallons within a 60 minute boil.
Hopefully someone will shed some light as I plan on brewing this tomorrow morning.
Thanks everyone!:rockin:

I'd boil a gallon or so off, then start my timing for my 60 minute boil. You need the malt in this one to make it work, so I wouldn't reduce the amount of the boil.

OK Yooper that makes sense. I guess that the "60 Minute IPA" Title comes from when the hops are first added to the boil, not the entire boiling time.
Thanks again for the recipe I am certainly looking forward to brewing it. I will let you guys know how it goes.

OK I just finished brewing the recipe. My efficiency was 78% which is great and the boils and everything went smoothly.
Until I forgot to drain about a half gallon of star san solution from my carboy before racking to it!!!
Is this going to ruin my beer? I know it must have diluted it because my original gravity went all the way down to 1.060 instead of the expected 1.072. Please let me know if I am screwed or not. I also used 2 vials of White Labs WLP001 yeast because I thought my gravity would be over 1.072. I wonder what that is going to do now that the gravity is much lower.
Also, I noticed that I lost about a gallon or so of wort in my kettle that was mixed in with the cold break. How do I get that precious wort to come out?
Thanks for the help, I really hope 5 hours of work isn't shot on one stupid star san mistake.

The star san won't be a problem what so ever. I've read several stories where guys rack on top of that much or even more and the beer comes out just fine. Basically with the PH of the beer, the star san will break down into yeast nutrients, so you should have happy yeast!!

And two vials, no problem. Pretty much the equivalent of a yeast starter, and I normally use a starter on all my beers, even down to 1.050. Might wanna keep a close eye on it for blowoffs.

As far as the wort stuck, I'm not sure. I use a hop stopper and it gets dang near everything out of my kettle. May want to look into one. I love mine.

Wow fantastic Lorena!!! Thank you for sharing. I did my FG sample while kegging and almost poured a pint while it is flat!

Glad you are liking it so far! I'm drinking one really early- I think I made it the day after you did, Chris, and I kegged it and dry hopped it one day last week. It's young, and I need to wait- but it sure is good! I hope you like the final product.

Bottled this today FG 1.016..very nice fruity aroma and taste

Nice recipe

Jay

I must say kudos on the recipe. I have never dry hopped with Amarillo and Simcoe combo and this thing smells like heaven..Very fruity and citricy..great!! I tasted fantastic at bottling..I am very excited about this and will run it into my regulcar IPA and pale ale rotation. I love Eds Stone IPA clone and plan on attempting Dudes pale ale as well. I love IPA and have done too many cream, blond, and wit beers for the family and friends and they either have to wait or learn to like some hops as I do.LOL

Nice recipe

Jay

I made this a few months ago, and just cracked some of the bottles. I was worried, until reading here, that I had messed something up because it has a noticeable citrisy taste, almost like grapefruit. I had never had one of these before, but apparently that is what it is supposed to taste like? I am pretty pleased with it overall, and will likely make it again.

Thanks Yooper!

Fantastic Yooper... by far the best beer that I have made to date. Thank you for sharing!

Prost!

I've had this in primary for 8 days now and it's still bubbling strong at 2-3 per minute. I'm not sure why fermentation is taking so long. I used Safale US-05 instead of pacman.

Good reviews. This will be my next batch for sure. Thanks !

A little update for those who are wanting to make this. I did a mash at 154..a bit higher and ended with a fg of 1.016 also a bit higher. I was going for a more malty attempt as per yoopers advice. I did a side by side and IMO it is a bit too sweet. I would shoot for 152 or 153 next time and try to dry out just a bit more. As for flavor and aroma this recipe is better..and 2 other tasters would agree. It has much more flavor and hop aroma. I did unfourtunatly even with irish moss have a bit of haze but not bad. I will brew this again and try it hit 152 and see how I like that.

Jay

Hey all,

I'm planning to brew the extract version described in posts #27 and #29 this weekend. It'll be just the second batch of my "post-Mr. Beer" era.

I'm sorry if I'm posting a question with an obvious answer, but here it goes anyway.

YooperBrew included 1# of Crystal 40L in the extract conversion instead of the Marris Otter. But, I'm not sure if that was just in response to the poster that said their LHBS didn't carry Marris Otter. So, if my LHBS carries both, should I stick with the Marris Otter malt in the original recipe, or do I need to use the Crystal 40L for color, since I'm using a DME instead of full grain?

Thanks! I love the DFH 60, and I can't wait to try and duplicate it.

Bayes2112 said:

Hey all,

I'm planning to brew the extract version described in posts #27 and #29 this weekend. It'll be just the second batch of my "post-Mr. Beer" era.

I'm sorry if I'm posting a question with an obvious answer, but here it goes anyway.

YooperBrew included 1# of Crystal 40L in the extract conversion instead of the Marris Otter. But, I'm not sure if that was just in response to the poster that said their LHBS didn't carry Marris Otter. So, if my LHBS carries both, should I stick with the Marris Otter malt in the original recipe, or do I need to use the Crystal 40L for color, since I'm using a DME instead of full grain?

Thanks! I love the DFH 60, and I can't wait to try and duplicate it.

Click to expand...

Well, that's a good question! Let me think about it and let you know. You shouldn't need it for color since the DME will darken a little, but I think you may want it for some sweetness. When I made this, I mashed high to have some residual sweetness/body. Another poster thought that made it too sweet.

I guess my thinking is that the hops are so predominant, that the MO would get lost in there with the hops and DME, so the crystal might be a good choice for some more "backbone" that you might not get without it. I'm not sure if anyone who used crystal ever posted back on what they thought of it, though.

"I mashed high to have some residual sweetness/body. Another poster thought that made it too sweet. "

What was your mash and FG?
I was about 154 to 155 and fg of 1.016.
I think 153 should give me a nice balance.

Anyone else have a bit of chill haze? I think maybe a few more weeks at a cooler temp will clear this problem a bit.

Jay