DIY 2 stage, single pass beer clarity filter on the cheap

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Radix said:
Your find of a filter housing seems very good. The body looks very similar to the one I used but the cap looks a little less beefy however I cant imagine how that would matter. When I was looking I could not find any 1/4 NPT ported housing with a release valve and that where clear, so very nice find.

All the literature I have seen suggest filter at 5 micron and then optionally at 1 micron which is called a finishing filter. I am unware of any links I posted advocating for only using 1 micron filters. Both instructions manuals I posted follow the 5 then 1 micron system. Depending on style and most importantly the amount of sediment you suck of the bottom of your carboy you might be able to get away with just a 1 micron filter, particularly if you use a hop bag and do 5 gallon batches. The concern with going directly to a 1 micron filter is that the filter clogs to easily then you increase the pressure and the filter collapses. When the filter clogs pressure obviously builds up on the filters surface. Success with just a 1 micron filter will of course depend a great deal on the quality of the filter you use. The filter source I recommend are notably thicker then other filters I have seen and thus less likely to collapse.

If you just want to do a 1 stage system I suggest using a 5 micron filter. The 5 micron does the vast majority of the work. Here is a quick summery of the micron size differences

"The 5.0 micron filter gets rid of any sediment in your beer. The 1.0 micron filter gives you a brilliantly clear beer. And the 0.5 micron filter enables you to eliminate almost all chill haze from your brilliantly clear beer."
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I filter 15 gal single pass through a 1 micron nominal (I believe this means it's close to 1 micron maybe bigger maybe smaller. Versus absolute which is what it says) pleated filter. I reuse the filter several times until it no longer looks clean.

I pressure ferment in a sankey. What I recommend doing is crash cooling for a couple of days to allow the yeast to settle out. Then pour off the first pint or two off the bottom which is all yeast. Then filter.

A 5 micron filter will not filter out yeast and my beer wasn't as clear as I wanted it.
 
adam01 said:
Why are the filters only for single use ?
One filter store suggests back flushing water through the filter to clean it out.
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The basic "disposable" filters can be used a couple of times provided you sanitize them correctly but its hardly worth it since they are sub $2 each. There are filters that can be reused in this system. They are absolute filters and have improved caskets and screen meshes. The reusable filters need to sanitized in like a pressure cooker. Here is a link to a reusable filter and the Midwest instructions provide detail on sanitizing the filter. The reusable filters aka $30 ones can give you 15-20 filters.
 
kshuler said:
Just finished my first kegging with this system. Afterwards, the beer has a slightly oxidized flavor (sherry like), BUT, I didn't try it before, so this could have been pre-filtering. It was made in a conical, and when dumping trub (3 times) it naturally sucked in some air. It has been sitting at room air now (currently about 75 degrees) for about 2 months, so it could be oxidized before hand. That being said, I am not sure on the methods exactly people are using. Here is what I did:

I filled a keg with star san, then hooked it up to gas and ran it from one keg through the filter housings (with no filters in them yet). Once all the star san had gone through, I emptied out the housings and placed the proper filters in each one. My understanding is these are already sanitized and don't need starsan to run through them, and I didn't want to get too much star san in my finished product. At this point, I hook it up to a keg full of cloudy beer and run it through at 4 psi. I pressed the pressure relief valve on each of the housings until beer came through them. One problem I had is that two of the little plastic Watts connectors leaked, so I had to push in two hoses constantly about as hard as I could so it wouldn't leak. Is there some trick to using those? Don't you just push the tube in, or is there something I'm not aware of?

Anyway, I am not sure how the beer could get oxidized in the filter even if not flushed with CO2. THere wasn't really any bubbling that I could see (or at least very little), and the oxygen should get expelled completely while the housings fill, or am I wrong?
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Your correct the filters are already sanitized the the starsan is will clog the .5 micron filters like is says in the Midwest directions. I have honestly never tested my beer directly after filtering I have always let it settle first. It would be nice to know if the beer still has an oxidized taste after a day of settling.

You should in practice be able to get a nearly entirely oxygen free environment for filtering. The steps you outlined sound good. did you purge the receiving keg with CO2? Another trick I have used when filtering to limit the foaming is to turn the filter housing upside down after the source keg has run out of beer that way the beer the remaining beer in the filter housings does not need to be forced from the bottom of the housings to the top.
 
The filter supplier listed in the first post doesn't do a real mixed case anymore. They will sell you 2 25-packs but more for money (I don't recall off-hand, but I think it was $78 shipped?). I've been asking around to a few other ebay sellers and found another one that will sell true mixed cases.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-PCS-REVE...pliances_US&hash=item3ef9a81745#ht_3585wt_907

Just email them at the email on that page and ask. They just sent me a paypal invoice directly. 25 5 micron and 25 1 micron for $65 shipped. Pretty smokin deal from what I've seen. If you just do the 5 micron the case of 50 is $62 shipped. I'm not affiliated, just passin along a good deal. I just talked to them this afternoon and its already been shipped.
 
We've tried filtering a couple times now using the canister set up and the results have been less than good. It hasent ended up nearly as clear as we were hoping. We r using a 5 Micron filter. And pushed at 10 psi. Has anybody had issues? I have no idea what we r doing wrong.
 
erasei said:
The filter supplier listed in the first post doesn't do a real mixed case anymore. They will sell you 2 25-packs but more for money (I don't recall off-hand, but I think it was $78 shipped?). I've been asking around to a few other ebay sellers and found another one that will sell true mixed cases.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-PCS-REVE...pliances_US&hash=item3ef9a81745#ht_3585wt_907

Just email them at the email on that page and ask. They just sent me a paypal invoice directly. 25 5 micron and 25 1 micron for $65 shipped. Pretty smokin deal from what I've seen. If you just do the 5 micron the case of 50 is $62 shipped. I'm not affiliated, just passin along a good deal. I just talked to them this afternoon and its already been shipped.
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Thats a good deal, thanks for sharing the info.I will get my next batch from that seller.
 
ninrugger said:
We've tried filtering a couple times now using the canister set up and the results have been less than good. It hasent ended up nearly as clear as we were hoping. We r using a 5 Micron filter. And pushed at 10 psi. Has anybody had issues? I have no idea what we r doing wrong.
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Can you share a little more about what is not working out for you? It seems your suggesting that your beer is not as clear as you would like. If that is the case then the most obvious solution is to add a 1 micron pass. You dont need another canister to do both a 1 and 5 micron pass you just need to replace the filter after each first run. The 5 micron will only remove visible particulate and most yest, if you dont want your beer to darken when chilled then you must filter to more like 1 micron. If you dont want to use a 1 micron filter you can try to drive your 5 micron filter at only 5 psi but provided the filter is installed correctly and you are running beer into the in port and out the out port then you will need to added another filter for additional filtering.
 
We had the hook ups right, and as far as I know, the filter was installed correctly...drop one in, make sure its centered over the ridges in the canister so that when its tightened down the ridges shove into the filter and seal from the top and bottom. The beer originally starts out as hazy as your average wheat beer. After filtering, it was more clear but I'd expect much more of a difference. Maybe my expectations are too high. I don't have pictures of the before and after. This isn't taking into account a chill haze as we didn't crash the beer before filtering. I guess on a side note, if we can figure this filter thing out, can pectins from fruit be filtered?
 
ninrugger said:
We had the hook ups right, and as far as I know, the filter was installed correctly...drop one in, make sure its centered over the ridges in the canister so that when its tightened down the ridges shove into the filter and seal from the top and bottom. The beer originally starts out as hazy as your average wheat beer. After filtering, it was more clear but I'd expect much more of a difference. Maybe my expectations are too high. I don't have pictures of the before and after. This isn't taking into account a chill haze as we didn't crash the beer before filtering. I guess on a side note, if we can figure this filter thing out, can pectins from fruit be filtered?
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From what I've read yeast are 3-4 microns and proteins have to be smaller...
 
Used a similar setup (except single pass)yesterday on my Oktoberfest. I bought all the supplies at Lowes. The 2 micron filters did make it slightly clearer, but not enough so i just ordered a 4 pack of 1 micron filters from Amazon. They also have a single pass setup for $44.50 I think. Thats about $20 less than I built mine. Thanks to the OP, great way to improve your beer.
 
I've contemplating filtering for awhile and normally have other wish list items to add to my homebrew tool box. After looking at this I'll definitely build one. By the way here is a link a found a few weeks ago while searching for a randall the enamel animal. You could easily turn this filtering system into a this method of a cheap randall enamel. Here it is:


BWB
 
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Nice! I was thinking about buying the single stage from midwest, but now I'll make my own dual stage!
 
Hey guys, I've been searching for a cheaper source for 0.5 micron filters. I cant get rid of the chill haze. Anybody have any suggestions?
 
Stevo2569 said:
Hey guys, I've been searching for a cheaper source for 0.5 micron filters. I cant get rid of the chill haze. Anybody have any suggestions?
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A protein rest during the mash if you're using wheat malt ;)

Whirlfloc

Secondary

Serve it a bit warmer

That's probably not the answer you're looking for, I know. I've been following this thread and contemplating filtering but my beer turns out pretty darn clear using the above steps. If it were a wheat beer I would want it cloudy and with chill haze as that is appropriate for the style.

In all seriousness though, if 1 micron isn't doing it I'd be reluctant to go to .5. From what I've read that may adversely affect the flavor of the beer by removing desirable compounds. Ergo my cutesy, but half serious remarks about looking elsewhere in your process to prevent cloudiness and/or chill haze.
 
Lost said:
A protein rest during the mash if you're using wheat malt ;)

Whirlfloc

Secondary

Serve it a bit warmer

That's probably not the answer you're looking for, I know. I've been following this thread and contemplating filtering but my beer turns out pretty darn clear using the above steps. If it were a wheat beer I would want it cloudy and with chill haze as that is appropriate for the style.

In all seriousness though, if 1 micron isn't doing it I'd be reluctant to go to .5. From what I've read that may adversely affect the flavor of the beer by removing desirable compounds. Ergo my cutesy, but half serious remarks about looking elsewhere in your process to prevent cloudiness and/or chill haze.
Click to expand...

Usually I get good cold break but this particular 12G batch did not and has a significant amount of chill haze. Most of my beers do clear quite well. Thanks for the remarks though.
 
Stevo2569 said:
Usually I get good cold break but this particular 12G batch did not and has a significant amount of chill haze. Most of my beers do clear quite well. Thanks for the remarks though.
Click to expand...

Well then, sorry that wasn't more help :eek:
 
Well I think I've had chill haze settle out before so maybe ill wait it out. But if anybody knows where I can get .5 micron filters for less than $15/. Let me know thanks.
 
Steve02569,
I've tried on the last few brews I've done a WL4000. It's a clarity agent suppose to eliminate chill haze. Try it out it didn't cost much and was enough for 5 batches. I've yet to see if it works correctly. I just bottled a batch and will give a heads up once it's carbed for a few weeks.
 
BlindWillieBrewer said:
Steve02569,
I've tried on the last few brews I've done a WL4000. It's a clarity agent suppose to eliminate chill haze. Try it out it didn't cost much and was enough for 5 batches. I've yet to see if it works correctly. I just bottled a batch and will give a heads up once it's carbed for a few weeks.
Click to expand...

Cool. Let me know how it does.
 
Radix said:
I have seen a number of questions about the process of filtering

I uploaded a copy the instructions that come with the Midwest kit here. This kit is a a single pass setup but basically the process is the same.

Another good source of instructions on this type of filtering is here. This is a little more details and basically what I do.

If people would like I can generate my own set of instructions but I think the the above links covers the vast majority of what you need to know
Click to expand...

Great links thanks
 
Couple questions: Would this still work if the beer was carbonated?

Also, do you just write the beer remaining in the filters off, or do you flip the filters upside down to try and get all of the beer out?
 
mjap52 said:
Couple questions: Would this still work if the beer was carbonated?

Also, do you just write the beer remaining in the filters off, or do you flip the filters upside down to try and get all of the beer out?
Click to expand...

I've never done it carbonated but if everything is kept under pressure a I can't see it being a problem.

I don't worry about what beer is left in the filters, but if you wanted it all turning the filters over should hurt anything.
 
Antler said:
I've never done it carbonated but if everything is kept under pressure a I can't see it being a problem.

I don't worry about what beer is left in the filters, but if you wanted it all turning the filters over should hurt anything.
Click to expand...

There is no problem filtering while under pressure (carbonated). The principle is the same with or without the filters.
 
Welp, I went ahead and carbed up a 15 gal batch in a Sanke keg pushed it through these filters into three pin locks. It worked, but it took absolutely forever.

I did it two stage style with a 5 and a 1 nominal micron filter. The foaming was pretty intense. The first filter probably had about an inch of foam and the second probably 6 inches. Then when all was done, I pulled a pint to see most of the carb was gone, so I had to re carb each keg individually.

Unless I did something extremely wrong, and someone can point me to a fix, I'm probably going to just filter prior to carbing now.
 
Just put my setup together along these lines and tried it out for the first time last night, with the results highly disappointing. Once I had everything assembled, I flushed with star san and then CO2, using 5 micron and 1 micron filters. Then I filtered the beer at low pressure, around 3 psi.

I had 2 major problems: I couldn't completely get rid of all the gas in the headspace of the canisters (even using the pressure release buttons), so I saw bubbles running through the lines throughout the filtering.

Worse, the beer looked just the same coming out as it did coming in. No noticeable difference, almost as if it had just gone around the tops and bottoms of the filters, rather then through them. When I disassmebled, the filters had indentations from the flanges at the top and bottom so they were definitely in snug, but I can't think of any other reason that it would have come out that cloudy, unless this batch had some serious chill haze (which I don't believe is the case).

The only things I can think to do are to use some teflon tape in the hose barb connections in case air was getting in there, and filter at a higher pressure. I know the pressure wasn't too low.

Any other ideas? This was very disappointing, after investing in this whole setup.

Thanks!
 
roxbob said:
Just put my setup together along these lines and tried it out for the first time last night, with the results highly disappointing. Once I had everything assembled, I flushed with star san and then CO2, using 5 micron and 1 micron filters. Then I filtered the beer at low pressure, around 3 psi.

I had 2 major problems: I couldn't completely get rid of all the gas in the headspace of the canisters (even using the pressure release buttons), so I saw bubbles running through the lines throughout the filtering.

Worse, the beer looked just the same coming out as it did coming in. No noticeable difference, almost as if it had just gone around the tops and bottoms of the filters, rather then through them. When I disassmebled, the filters had indentations from the flanges at the top and bottom so they were definitely in snug, but I can't think of any other reason that it would have come out that cloudy, unless this batch had some serious chill haze (which I don't believe is the case).

The only things I can think to do are to use some teflon tape in the hose barb connections in case air was getting in there, and filter at a higher pressure. I know the pressure wasn't too low.

Any other ideas? This was very disappointing, after investing in this whole setup.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Don't worry about the bubbles. As long as you flushed with co2 there's no harm being done to the beer!

Not sure what size filters you used but I couldn't get all the air out of the canisters either but that doesn't matter. As for the beer not being clear, I have no idea, mine came out good.
 
Bumping an old thread. Finally building a single stage. I don't usually have chill haze issues...so no need for the super filter ;) I am going to use this for those times when I'm taking a keg somewhere, or entering a competition. The judging public loves pretty beer!
 
Nice post and thanks for the headsup on the connectors, I was going to use nips.

This type of filtering is quite a craze in my area. My LBS sells plate rigs for $90 or a housing like this for $35. It's obvious that the homebrew industry is gouging the way plate filter prices.

Off to big orange home center to check filter prices and buy the connectors. If filters and housings are reasonable, I'll save ordering online.
 
you can just use a 1 micron by itself. I cold crash for a couple days then run it through the 1 micron and it works great. the only reason i can see doing a 2 stage is for running a .45 micron filter. do a 3 micron then a .45 after it.
 
I put together a double filter (5 and 1 micron), and the results have been pretty great.

So, I've got an IPA in the conical now. Would you guys filter before or after dry hopping? I want to work toward clear beer, but I don't want to strip any of the aroma from the dry hop with the 1 micron filter.
 
erikrocks said:
I put together a double filter (5 and 1 micron), and the results have been pretty great.

So, I've got an IPA in the conical now. Would you guys filter before or after dry hopping? I want to work toward clear beer, but I don't want to strip any of the aroma from the dry hop with the 1 micron filter.
Click to expand...

I wondered this as well. Were you able to find an answer through your own experience?
 
Nice setup!!
What size hose did you use for this?
Also for the Ball/pin lock liquid post adapter whakind where they did they have a barb on the or a disconnect and what size?
Thankssss
 
Is there any reason this system would not work for wine or cider?

It seems a great way to halt fermentation after backsweetening and before bottling, if all the yeast will be removed.

I have extra corny's, going to give this a shot,
 
bembel said:
Is there any reason this system would not work for wine or cider?

It seems a great way to halt fermentation after backsweetening and before bottling, if all the yeast will be removed.

I have extra corny's, going to give this a shot,
Click to expand...


I use a 1 micron filter to polish my mead, wine and cider. The filters aren't absolute, so some yeast can slip by. I wouldn't trust the filters alone to prevent bottle bombs.
 

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