American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract

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Just broke into this the other night, after only 10 days in bottles.

Awesome stuff. First time bottling with DME and man what a difference that makes.

Awesome awesome recipe Yoop! I cant wait to try this out 4-5 weeks from now.

The only thing I didnt do was skip the secondary, and boy do I wish I didnt. Hop sediment clogged my 3/8 inch siphon, bottling wand, and even my spigot! And look for some definite hop absorption. I came out with 38 beers instead of my usual 50. No biggie though.

At bottling time my kitchen smelled like a gang of badass hops had urinated all over the place. I loved it, however SWMBO didnt ;)
 
I just wanted to throw another thanks into this thread. I wound up oversparging like crazy so my OG was pretty low (1.058 iirc) but it still tastes great.

I made a few substitutions based on what I had on hand and LHBS availability...went with Columbus instead of Warrior, Biscuit instead of Amber malt, and just for gits and shiggles I tossed 1oz of Nelson Sauvin into the dryhop along with the others. Also fermented with S-05 at about 66-68 degrees.

I had a DFH 60 minute at a restaurant (granted, the place probably doesn't sell these through often so who knows how old it was) and the aroma and flavor of mine just blew it away! This beer has a ton of hop flavor without being your typical in-your-face-pine bitterness.

Thanks again Yoop, you've really come up with a winner here :mug:
 
For anyone who did the extract version of this recipe... Any recommendations for adding the LME? Like 1/2 at the beginning, 1/2 at flameout etc...?
 
For anyone who did the extract version of this recipe... Any recommendations for adding the LME? Like 1/2 at the beginning, 1/2 at flameout etc...?

I added it all at the beginning of the 60 minute boil but I'm sure that you could experiment with different combinations.
 
I'm brewing this today, with US 2 row and amber malt (Thomas Fawcett), and magnum instead of warrior.

I'm thirsty already!

i've toasted some base malt a few times and the flavor is not really getting close to what i taste in the dogfish beers.

does the thomas fawcett amber work best according to your opinion?
 
Yooper said:
Originally Posted by Yooper View Post
I wouldn't be satisfied with an OG of 1.028. That's way too high. Now that it's going again, check the SG in two days. If it's the same, you'll need to do something about it. If it's dropping, hopefully it'll drop quite a bit.

So it's been nearly two weeks since I added some S05 to the mix, no starter. My FG has only dropped to 1.020. Whatya guys figure, is this still to high? It's certainty better than when it was 1.028 but still.
 
made this recipe last year and forgot to post what it looked like in the primary.

looks like an alien abduction, or something out of the XCOM games from the early 90s

14095_10150168114975046_508205045_11812692_3189553_n.jpg



however it turned out great. fantastic beer.
 
i've toasted some base malt a few times and the flavor is not really getting close to what i taste in the dogfish beers.

does the thomas fawcett amber work best according to your opinion?

Yes, I really like it.


So it's been nearly two weeks since I added some S05 to the mix, no starter. My FG has only dropped to 1.020. Whatya guys figure, is this still to high? It's certainty better than when it was 1.028 but still.

If it's 1.020 and not dropping, I'd call it done. You can bottle at 1.020.
 
So it's been nearly two weeks since I added some S05 to the mix, no starter. My FG has only dropped to 1.020. Whatya guys figure, is this still to high? It's certainty better than when it was 1.028 but still.

My first shot at this recipe 1.020 was what mine finished at as well. It was also my 2nd batch overall. Looking back, I blame the extract and not enough yeast. Next time I replaced some (5-10%) of the extract with sugar and used the mr malty pitching rate calculator. Much better.

As Yooper said, if it's done then bottle it and it will be pretty tasty. But the hops will not stand out as much with that high of a finishing gravity. Certainly still a nice IPA though:mug:
 
Mine has been fermenting for almost 2 weeks. I'm thinking about leaving it in the primary for 3 weeks, then dry hop the primary and let it sit for 1 more week, then rack to secondary and cold crash for 1 week, and then into the keg.

How's this sound? should I do something different?
 
I'm working my way through the thread, so I apologize if this has been asked before.

Hmm, this is a long rambling post. TL;DR: anyone try increasing the amount of bittering hop in the boil?

Context: As a transplant from the east coast to the west, DFH60 used to be my go-to six pack. I've recently transitioned from extract to all-grain brewing, this was my first real attempt (seems easier to mash a lot of 2-row than fiddle around with oatmeal stouts, which was my other idea). Anyway.

I love the recipe quite a bit. I've made it twice now, although neither time did I use the marris otter called for. The first time I had a pound of belgian aromatic laying around, and the second time I bought a pound of british 30-37 crystal malt instead. Mostly a matter of what I could easily pick up at the time. I'm having a bit of efficiency problems (right now at about 60%), but I attribute that to my newness to the process. It'll pick up as I figure out stuff like how to properly crush my grains and get a better handle on san francisco's ridiculous water (there's almost nothing in it at all; the magnesium and calcium levels are both single digits PPM).

One thing I've noticed, though, is that the bittering schedule on this brew is really quite restrained. There's only about 24 AAUs in the bittering at all, and since most of them are added for less than 30 minutes, I expect utilization to be pretty low. I guess this is the point of the continuous hopping technique- balance bittering with flavor a lot more (although I also believe that the contribution of continuous hopping is kind of washed out by the ounce and a half of dryhop, I'm one for tradition here).

After quaffing the first batch of this beer (and it was a Highly Quaffable Brew, kudos Yooper), I think I agree with my preliminary assessment- it's not bitter enough. The dry hops add a ton of delicious flavor (very DFH, although I've not tasted them side-by-side now that I live in CA), but it's more floral, fruity and herbal than bitter. I know that traditionally an IPA is not supposed to be all that bitter really (it's what, 20-40 IBUs?) and it should derive most of its flavor from dry hops and maybe oak, but I am still thinking I might want to change the profile a bit.

Has anybody tried this? Given how deservedly well-received the recipe is, I imagine lots of people have played with it. My plan would likely be something like: start with 0.25 oz of the warrior and 0.5 oz of the amarillo (since I have to buy by the ounce anyway, this would go to waste) in the pot for the full 60 minute boil, and do the continuous hopping schedule with everything else. This should add another 10ish fully-utilized AAUs to the recipe.
 
After a bit of reflection, I think I was conflating AAU and IBU in the post above. An understandable mistake. Still, I think increasing the IBU from 50ish to 65 or so might help the back end stand up to all that dryhop. Not sure, really.
 
All my ingredients are here! I just have one quick question. I punched the numbers in the Mr Malty pitching rate calculator. It says 1.89 liters of starter required. What should my DME/water ratio be for a starter this size?

Excuse the noobish question, this is my first time doing a starter so I am a little nervous!
 
All my ingredients are here! I just have one quick question. I punched the numbers in the Mr Malty pitching rate calculator. It says 1.89 liters of starter required. What should my DME/water ratio be for a starter this size?

Excuse the noobish question, this is my first time doing a starter so I am a little nervous!

Well, the ratio is always the same, not matter what. You want an OG of 1.035-1.040. I haven't been using a scale, so I use measuring cups. 1/2 cup DME to 2 cups water. Of course, you can scale up as needed, 1.5 cups DME to 6 cups water, etc.
 
After a bit of reflection, I think I was conflating AAU and IBU in the post above. An understandable mistake. Still, I think increasing the IBU from 50ish to 65 or so might help the back end stand up to all that dryhop. Not sure, really.

I like it when I add 1/2 the bittering hops (warrior, or sometimes magnum if I'm out of warrrior) right after the hot break and then add the other half a little at a time, all by 40 minutes. Then proceed with the simcoe/amarillo from 30 minutes on.

Recently, I started adding all of the bittering hops at the beginning because I wanted to FWH. To be honest, I don't taste much of a difference, but I calculated approx. 50 IBUs that way and it's good.
 
Just pitched my yeast. I ended up doing 15# of marris otter and 1# of english 35-37 crystal. That's a lot of grain, but I hit my target gravity so I'm happy for now. I know you mentioned not liking the maltiness of the MO in the IPA, Yooper, but I'm a fan of maltier IPAs (truth to tell, this might be more of an Amber than an IPA at this point, albeit aggressively hopped).

I also did the continuous hop plan as before on the Warrior and Amarillo. But I did a FWH with all of the simcoe (so no dryhop simcoe, although I might change my mind about that when I taste it going into the secondary, I've got some simcoe in the freezer).

Now all I need to do is improve my efficiency and I'll be happy. It's a real pleasure to do multiple runs of the same basic recipe, tweaking this and that (I'll probably end up with a mix of domestic 2-row and MO).

My second iteration recently crossed the "drink now" threshold- 3 weeks in bottles. Drinking one now, I really love it. This is a 13# domestic 2-row and 1# english 35-37 crystal, with the standard hop schedule. A bit less ABV than the original recipe (my OG was 1.060), but that doesn't hurt too much. I should just stop obsessing over my efficiency.

Now, I need a way to convince my wife that I should get a grain crusher so I can buy my base malts in bulk and just crank out a batch of this every other week or so. Yum.
 
Noob question.... sorry.

For you batch spargers, how long are y'all sparging?

I just tried a sample of mine, brewed almost 3 weeks ago. it was my firsts AG. The color looked more like budwiser, and there was very little body (almost watery). I know it probably needs more time, but I doubt those will be cured with further time. The hops in this are awesome, IMHO. Also it had a FG of about 1.001 (further evidence of a poor mash... I think).

I am trying to tweak my technique. Thanks.
 
Noob question.... sorry.

For you batch spargers, how long are y'all sparging?

I just tried a sample of mine, brewed almost 3 weeks ago. it was my firsts AG. The color looked more like budwiser, and there was very little body (almost watery). I know it probably needs more time, but I doubt those will be cured with further time. The hops in this are awesome, IMHO. Also it had a FG of about 1.001 (further evidence of a poor mash... I think).

I am trying to tweak my technique. Thanks.

DFH 60 min is a pretty light colored beer.
 
Noob question.... sorry.

For you batch spargers, how long are y'all sparging?

I just tried a sample of mine, brewed almost 3 weeks ago. it was my firsts AG. The color looked more like budwiser, and there was very little body (almost watery). I know it probably needs more time, but I doubt those will be cured with further time. The hops in this are awesome, IMHO. Also it had a FG of about 1.001 (further evidence of a poor mash... I think).

I am trying to tweak my technique. Thanks.

It's hard to judge what may have gone wrong without more details...

What was your mash temperature? Did you take a gravity reading after the boil but before pitching the yeast?

This beer is super light in color for sure. I think mine finished around 1.012...so to be all the way down to 1.001 there's something wrong. Could it be an infection? Even if you mashed at a super low temperature I'd be surprised if it fermented out that far. Have you tested your hydrometer in water?

I batch sparge....you want to mash for about an hour, lauter (release the first runnings), then add in your sparge water and let it settle then lauter again. I usually let my sparge water rest for about 10 minutes or so but I don't think it's really that necessary.
 
I think my OG was 1.045.

I mashed at 153 but the temp dropped to about 148 when I checked at 60 min.
 
I will be brewing this on Sunday, can't wait! Starter is done and in the fridge. Everything is ready to go!
 
Has anyone tried 1 oz simcoe along with the 1 oz Amarillo for the dry hop, instead of just .5 oz simcoe?
I have 1 oz of both and I don't really want to keep .5 oz of simcoe, as I don't know when I'll be using it again. I'll be dry hopping tomorrow, so let me know what you guys think.
 
Has anyone tried 1 oz simcoe along with the 1 oz Amarillo for the dry hop, instead of just .5 oz simcoe?
I have 1 oz of both and I don't really want to keep .5 oz of simcoe, as I don't know when I'll be using it again. I'll be dry hopping tomorrow, so let me know what you guys think.

I plan on using 1 oz of both. Should be fine
 
Are you guys straining the wort when you add it to the primary or do you let it ferment with all the hops from the boil? I am brewing this today, let me know!
 
Are you guys straining the wort when you add it to the primary or do you let it ferment with all the hops from the boil? I am brewing this today, let me know!

I always dump everything in. Some people do the same, some people do not. It's all a matter of personal preference, and it really does not matter.
 
I brewed this 11/20 and was planning on bottling tonight.

While cleaning bottles, I realized that the bluemoon bottles the ol lady saved for me are twisties.

Then I realized you need caps to bottle beer as well.

Maybe I will let it sit until I manage to remove my head from my ass.
 
I brewed this last night. I must say, that was a blast! Much more fun than the last brew I did. And the amarillo/simcoe mix smelled amazing! Checked it this morning and the blow off tube is bubbling like crazy. Can't wait to try this one!!
 
Bottled it tonight...

I ended up at 1.010 and it had an alcohol bite to it, less hop flavor than I expected. That makes sense though I guess.

I hit my numbers and before pitching was just shy of 1.070. I was around 1.068
 
Here's a comparison pic. A poured bottle of DFH 60 is on the right, and mine's on the left - still just a touch cloudy, but it's begun clearing nicely since being chilled over a week ago. Dare I say that, tasted side by side, the DFH actually tastes malty?! The first time I had DFH 60, I swore it was pure hop syrup. I have a completely different perspective now. I think I've outdone a commercial brewery at their own game!!!

4688-dfhcomparison.JPG

Sam would actually be proud of you. I don't think he would take offense. Just saw this post while enjoying a DFH 60 and thinking about cloning it. I haven't had it in awhile and figured i would revisit.
 
Hi Everyone,

This is my first post! I've been reading this thread with excitement. I have not seen these numbers for brewing this extract recipe on Full boil (5 gallons) I plugged these number in Beersmith and what I got is below. Has anyone tried this with a 5gal boil? Do these numbers look right?

Thanks in advance! I am so trying this!

Copy of Dogfish Head 60 Clone Full Boil
India Pale Ale


Type: Extract
Date: 1/30/2007
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Brewer: Lorena
Boil Size: 5.72 gal Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: My Equipment
Taste Rating(out of 50): 35.0 Brewhouse Efficiency: -
Taste Notes:

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
9.90 lb Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 90.83 %
1.00 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 9.17 %
0.50 oz Simcoe [12.00 %] (Dry Hop 3 days) Hops -
0.58 oz Warrior [15.00 %] (60 min) Hops 26.7 IBU
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (Dry Hop 3 days) Hops -
0.46 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (35 min) Hops 10.0 IBU
0.46 oz Simcoe [12.00 %] (30 min) Hops 13.1 IBU
1 Pkgs Pacman (Wyeast Labs #1764) Yeast-Ale



Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.072 SG
Measured Original Gravity: 1.070 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.077 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.010 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: -0.61 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 7.84 %
Bitterness: 49.8 IBU Calories: 313 cal/pint
Est Color: 13.1 SRM Color: Color


Mash Profile

Mash Name: None Total Grain Weight: 9.70 lb
Sparge Water: - Grain Temperature: -
Sparge Temperature: - TunTemperature: -
Adjust Temp for Equipment: TRUE Mash PH: -

Steep grains as desired (30-60 minutes)



Mash Notes: -
Carbonation and Storage

Carbonation Type: Corn Sugar Volumes of CO2: 2.4
Pressure/Weight: 3.8 oz Carbonation Used: -
Keg/Bottling Temperature: 60.0 F Age for: 28.0 days
Storage Temperature: 52.0 F

Notes

Pacman yeast used. Hops were added as continous- first warrior for the first 25 minutes, then all mixed continuosly at 35 minutes.
 
A little over 1 week in the primary. It has finally slowed to a bubble every hour or so. Man does it smell great! i will be transferring to secondary this weekend, can't wait to test the hydrometer sample!!
 
I just brewed an all grain batch. What is the best temperature for fermentation? I read the first 10 pages and only saw 63 degrees. What do you think?
 
I just brewed an all grain batch. What is the best temperature for fermentation? I read the first 10 pages and only saw 63 degrees. What do you think?

It depends on the yeast strain you've chosen. The low end of the fermentation temperature range for the yeast strain is a good pick.
 
I used Safale US 05. Temp range 59-75, so 63 is good? Thanks Yooper for this recipe and help for us rookies
 
I am racking to the secondary and dry hopping right now. I took a gravity reading and it is at 1.021? Will this thing finish in the secondary? It was in the primary for two weeks and I used packman yeast. (2 liter starter)

Edit: forgot to mention that this is the extract recipe. The sample tasted great.
 
I just cracked a bottle.. its good. I will go with the amber next time. Just a bit more in the bottle and it will be better.
 

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